• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.11 no.3
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• pp.135-141
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• 2009

In this paper, Tagetes extracts were extracted from leave, root, stem and flower at $100^{\circ}C$ for 20 minutes. Silk fabrics were dyed with Tatetes Patula L. to investigate the dyeing properties in accordance with dye concentration, pH, temperature, time of pre-, simul- and post-treatment of mordants using the three types of mordants. As a result, the surface color of the silk fabrics was yellowish regardless of the types of mordants. However, the a values were decreased and b values were increased in the order of the dyeing using Al>Cu>Fe: Al mordanted silk fabrics were appeared in greenish yellow and Fe mordanted silk fabrics were done in redish yellow. K/S values of the silk fabrics treated with Fe mordant were 3 times higher than those of Al and Cu mordants according to the increase in dye concentration. This behaviour was shown even in the increase of mordant concentration due to the interaction of mordant and pigments of Tatetes Patula L. But, the types of mordants did not affect because the equilibrium was obtained in 20 minutes in a similar way. And it showed that the highest K/S value of the silk fabrics studied was pH 4 and $80^{\circ}C$ regardless of the types of mordants.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.18 no.6
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• pp.1315-1321
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• 2009

The chemical composition of natural powder dye $Pinux^{TM}$ manufactured from Pinus radiata bark and dyeability of dyed silk fabrics with $Pinux^{TM}$ were examined. It is made up of the optimum dyeing condition of silk fabric according to the dyeing concentration, dyeing time, and dyeing temperature. Also, we examined the colorfastness and antibiosis of dyed silk fabrics to washing, rubbing, perspiration and light. For the analysis of the chemical composition of $Pinux^{TM}$, the total contents of phenolic compound, proanthocyanidin(PA) and anti-oxidative activities of the dye were analyzed. As a result, it was found that the main components of the $Pinux^{TM}$ manufactured from Pinus radiata bark is proanthocyanidin, mostly a flavonoid containing a procyanidin structure, and it consists of approximately 63% phenol. As a result of examining the dyeability of silk fabrics with $Pinux^{TM}$, it showed that the dyeability was best under the conditions of the concentration of dye $1{\sim}1.5%$(wt/v%), dyeing time of 90 minutes, and dyeing temperature at $90^{\circ}C$. It was found that the colorfastness of dyed silk fabrics, colorfastness to washing, perspiration for acidic and rubbing were as good as grade 4 or 4-5. However, the colorfastness to light was low at grade 1, the same as the results of other natural dyed fabrics. As a result of the antibiosis measurement for the $Pinux^{TM}$-dyed silk fabrics, it showed high antibacterial properties to Staphylococcus sureus at 99.6%.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.8
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• pp.37-47
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• 2007

This study is considered about the fabrics of the tomb of King Muryeong at the Baekje(百濟) Period. First, there were silk fabrics such as compound woven silk(錦), twill damask(綾), complex gause(羅) and plain weaved silk(平絹). All of compound woven silk(錦) are the warp-faced compound tabby(經錦) of plain weave and the density is various from high to low one. The twill damask(綾) was a variation of twill damask weaved with a six strand warp thread. The complex gause(羅) made patterns as a set of 2 strand, 4 strand, 6 strand and 8 strand warp threads are weaved alternately with the weft. There were three kinds of plain weaved silk(平絹). The first was weaved densely without space between strands. The second was weaved with a small space between strands. And the third was weaved with a two strand warp thread, having a space between the threads. On the other hand, several pieces of well preserved ramie cloth were excavated. Of the, the densest one has the density of 125 strand/inch for the warp and the weft. In addition, strings made of flax thread were found. This suggests that flax fabrics may be found additionally if the hardened lumps of fabrics are resolved and analyzed. Other materials discovered include knits, knotted strings, embroideries, threads and floss. Pieces considered knits and knotted strings occupy a large part of fabrics excavated from King Muryeong's Tomb, and in particular knotted strings show various knotting methods. In addition, embroideries such as chain stitch and button hole stitch are clearly observed. What is more, there are silk threads and hemp threads, which are presumed to have been used for dangling ornaments such as Yeongrak(瓔珞) and beads or for sewing. Besides, floss was found between fabrics.

• Acta Via Serica
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.91-116
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• 2021

India has had a rich and diverse textile tradition since the 3rd millennium BCE. The origin of Indian textiles can be traced back to the Harappan period. Owing to the hot and humid climate in most parts of India, cotton has remained India's favourite choice of fabric for normal use. Thus, India is supposed to be the first nation to have grown, woven, and patterned cotton fabrics. Moreover, India is one of the leading cotton-growing countries in the world. The earliest occurrence of cotton thread in India is roughly datable to 4000 BCE and of dyed fabrics to about 2500 BCE. Large numbers of needles and spindle-whorls found in Harappa and other early historic sites in India reveal the prosperous state of textile production and its trade in the early period. The textile producers used a wide range of skills to process raw materials and make regionally idiosyncratic dyes, weaves, prints, and embroideries. Additionally, the silk from wild indigenous forms of silkworms was known in the Indian sub-continent roughly contemporary with the earliest clear archaeological evidence for silk in China. The analysis of thread fragments found inside a copper bangle and ornament from Harappa and steatite beads from Chanhu-daro, have yielded silk fibers dating to 2500-2000 BCE. Apart from other products, cotton and silk textiles were important export materials from India right from the Harappan period. Actually, the sea-borne trade had played an important role in the economic growth and prosperity of the Harappan civilization. Several ancient seaports in the entire coastline of India played a vital role in the maritime trade during the Harappan period and cotton and silk textiles of Indian origin have been found in various countries. The contemporary writings and epigraphy have also attested to the vast maritime trade network of India and the export of textile materials. The paper discusses in detail the origin and development of cotton and silk textile production in India through the ages and its role in maritime trade networks.

• 한국생활과학회:학술대회논문집
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• 2010.05a
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• pp.107-108
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• 2010

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.8
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• pp.883-891
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• 2003

In this study, a change of hand of fabrics dyed with persimmon juice was measured using Kawabata Evaluation System. Using various cotton fabrics, linen fabric and silk fabric used frequently for persimmon juice dyeing, we examined the changes of physical properties and hand according to persimmon juice dyeing and washing. The dynamic characteristics of hand were measured tensile, shear, bending, compression, surface properties, thickness and weight. Linearity of load-extention and tensile resilience were increased in all kinds of fabrics after dyeing. Tensile energy decreased in cotton fabric 2(gauze), cotton fabric 3(muslin) and linen fabric. Shear stiffness and hysteresis of shear increased in most of fabrics. Bending rigidity of the bending property and hysteresis of bending, linearity of compression of the compression property, compression energy and compression resilience increased in all kinds of fabrics after dyeing. Thickness and weight increased much in all kinds of fabrics after dyeing. In the primary hand value, stiffness and anti-drape stiffness increased in all kind of fabrics after dyeing. The fullness and softness, crispness, scrooping feeling and flexibility with soft feeling decreased. As the stiffness after persimmons dyeing increased, it was suitable for clothes material of summer.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.15 no.5
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• pp.103-114
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• 2011

During a wearer's movement, the apparel fabric layers collide each other in a highly complicated manner. The collision involves cloth-cloth, and cloth-body collision. The diversity of the textile fabrics, including silk, wool, cotton, and other synthetic fibers, together with the complex details of the apparel construction, makes the collision and other calculation procedure involved in the 3-dimensional clothing software system much more complicated. Therefore, there is a need to measure the behavior of the fabrics during the fabric collision cycles. In this study, as a first step, static measurements pertinent to the factors governing the appearance of the apparel fabrics were implemented. The drape profile, stiffness(Sd and Sf), tensile properties, thickness, and the air permeability were measured. The correlation between the parameters were calculated and reviewed. It is found that there is a high correlation of 0.97 between the actual fabric drape parameters and the 3D virtual fabric drape parameters. The measured drape coefficients of the fabrics show relatively good correlation with the measured fabric stiffness.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.47
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• pp.89-100
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• 1999

This study was carried to a textile conservation process included washing effect fiber analysis such as fiber identification fabric density and thickness color fading and of extracted soils. the following results were obtained. 1. AS a result of investigating to fabric surfaces by S.E.M all of cleaning methods wet cleaning-solvent cleaning in charge system were effective to remove soils from fabrics. 2. The buried fabrics were made of silk few of them were cotton ramie and hemp. 3. According to fabric density and thickness used fabrics were almost medium weight fabrics. 4. Low values of L, a, b indicated that the colors of these fabrics were faded to yellow and brown. 5. The soil components were hydrocarbon-alkane group alkyl alcohol and ketone group.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.21 no.6
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• pp.1051-1059
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• 1997

The objectives of this study were to investigate the effects of mordants and dyeing: on the dyeability and color fastness of the fabrics dyed with the extract from Turmeric. The following results were drawn from the data obtained. 1. The wavelengths of the strongest absorption band of Turmeric extract were 400 nm respectively and the wavelengths were 440 nm after the mordants were added in the color extract. The bands of Turmeric extract shifted to long wave length side as pH increased. In all cases, the abosorbancies were increased as pH increased. 2. The main color substance in extract from Turmeric were expected to be curcumin respectively by spectrophotometric and HPLC studies. 3. As to the concentration of color extract for dyeing, about 20 g/L was the optimum concentration to dye silk and cotton fabrics with extract. 4. The K/S values of dyed fabrics were increased gradually as the concentration of mordants increased, and the highest K/S values were obtained at 5∼10%. When using the mordanting methods, silk fabric by premordanting and cotton fabric by premordanting and synmordanting had influenced upon K/S valse. 5. The color fastness of fabrics dyed with Turmeric extract against dry cleaning, washing, rubbing and perspiration was improved 1 level or so but light fastness was remained.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.22-35
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• 1998

The objective of this study was to investigate and to identify and to classify the fabric names concerning costume in the sumptuary laws of Silla in Sam Guk Sa Ki(三國史記). The important findings of this study can be summarized as follows: Various names of fabrics concerning costume in the sumptuary laws of Silla were found to be classified into ten categories of fabrics. They were as follows: (1) kye( ), (2) Su(繡), (3) Kum(錦), (4) Ra(羅), (5) Reung(綾), (6) Sa(紗), (7) Si( ), (8) Kyun(絹), (9) Myun Ju(綿紬), (10) Po(布). Ra(羅) in ten categories was the most various. The numbering orders shown above were the orders of degree of valuability and preciousness of the fabrics in Silla. Namely, (1) Kye( ) was the most precious fabric, (2) Su(繡) was the second precious one, (3) Kum(錦) was the third precious one, and so on. It was found that the orders of the degree of preciousness of fabrics were a system for differentiating social class and rank, or sex of the people. It revealed the ordering system of the degree of the preciousness of fabrics of Silla was derived from T'ang dynasty. The system of Silla and T'ang system were almost the same each other. Materials used to manufacture fabrics were of mainly three kinds; e.g., wool, silk, and hemp. In these three kinds of materials silk was the most common stuff, and it was seen under the various names of the silks.