• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.36
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• pp.109-119
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• 1998

For the purpose of standardization and practicability of natural dyeing, the mordanting and dyeing properties of Caseaslpinia Sappan, L. and Brazilin were studied. Appropriate extraction, dyeing and mordanting condition of Caeaslpinia Sappan, L. were determined, and the effect of mordanting method on dye up-take adn color fastness of dyed fabric was investigated. The most absorbance of Caeaslpinia Sappan, L. solution was 445nm, Brazilin was 448nm. The color of bazilin solution was affected by pH 7~9. The optimum temperature to extract Caesalpinia Sappan, L. was 10$0^{\circ}C$ adn dyeing solution for 1 hour. In case mordants concentration, the most absorbance was 0.3%. In case mordanting test, the best and proper temperature to quantities of absorbed mordants in silk was 8$0^{\circ}C$ and the most quantities of absorbed mordants in silk was mordant treatment by Cu. Effective dyeing time to silk was 60min. Effective mordanting temperature was 8$0^{\circ}C$, and its time was 30min. K/S value of dyeing fabrics was recoginazed by mordanting treat-ment, specially Fe, Sn, Al, Cu. K/S value of pre-mordanting was higher than post-mordanting. After soaping treatment K/S value of pre- and post-mordanting silk was decreased and 0.1%(W/V) quantity of mordant was sufficient for treatment. In the case of Caeaslpinia Sappan, L. fastness was increased by mordanting treatment. Mordants and mordanting treatment method affected the amount of absorption and color change of dyed silk.

• Korean Journal of Rural Living Science
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• v.10 no.2
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• pp.28-36
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• 1999

The purpose of this study was to examine the best condition for dyeing silk in green color used kudzu-vine leaves which were available everywhere in our country except winter. Dyeing experiments were done under various dyeing conditions according to extracting method of dyebath from kudsu-vine leaves, pH of dyebath, dyeing time, concentration of dyebath and mordants which were treated after dyeing. Color difference ($\Delta$E) and Munsell's HV/C and color fastness to drycleaning, washing, perspiration and light were measured. The main results were as follows : 1. The color difference of dyed silk increased in dyebath B & C which were extracted in alkali water comparing with dyebath A which was extracted in distilled water. In dyebath B & C, the color difference was the highest in case of dyebath pH 5.0. 2. The colors of fabrics dyed in dyebath A were mainly yellow and the colors in dyebath B & C were yellow green. 3. The color differences of dyed silk increased according to dyeing time and concentration of dyebath. 4. The color were changed with the treatment of mordants. The most strong green color could get in Cu mordant treatment in dyebath C, pH 5.0, and concentration 4. 5. The peak of reflectance within the visible light of the fabric dyed in the most strong green color could be seen in $\lambda$500-520nm. 6. On the whole, the colorfastness of experimental fabrics dyed in dyebath B, C and Cu mordant treatment was good except the colorfastness to the light.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.11 no.3
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• pp.496-501
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• 2009

In this study, a kiwifruit-produced protease was used to improve the quality of the wool and silk fabrics. The wool and silk were treated with the actinidin from kiwifruit. Following this protease treatment, changes in the surface of a single yarn of the fabrics were observed via both an optical microscope and a scanning electron microscope (SEM). In order to determine the amount of dye uptake in the fabric, changes in the K/S value of the wool and silk were measured by spectrophotometric analysis. Also, we performed a tensile strength examination to determine variation in their mechanical properties. By increasing the protease treatment time to 48h, the dyeing properties of fabrics were enhanced, and the surfaces of the single yarns of the fabrics became smoother, because of the removal of soil and scale in them. However, no mechanical changes were detected in the fabrics. Thereby, we suggest that the kiwifruit-produced actinidin treatment can improve the quality of the fabrics.

• Journal of the Korean Wood Science and Technology
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• v.49 no.2
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• pp.134-141
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• 2021

This study was conducted to investigate the potential of the neutral extract (NE) prepared by treating P. radiata bark with aqueous NaHCO3 solution as a natural dyestuff. Silk and cotton fabrics were dyed at four different NE concentrations, 0.5%, 1.0%, 1.5%, and 2.0% o.w.b. (on the weight of bath). The fabric to liquid ratio of 1 : 50, dyeing temperature of 90℃, and dyeing time of 90 min were used as the fixed condition. The appropriate NE dyeing concentration of silk and cotton fabrics was 1.5% o.w.b. Colors of the dyed silk and cotton fabrics were brown and light brown, respectively. From colorfastness assessment, both dyed silk and cotton showed good washing and rubbing fastness, but poor light fastness. NE dyed fabrics exhibited excellent ammonia deodorization property and antibacterial activity against Staphylococcus aureus and Klebsiella pneumoniae. Therefore, NE of P. radiata bark could have the potential for use as a functional brown dyestuff.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.10 no.2
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• pp.242-248
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• 2008

This study was aimed to find whether the Chelidonium majus which grows naturally in Korean soil and has a various medical ingredient is valuable as a natural dyeing material and to examine the functionality of Chelidonium majus extract. As the test result of dyeing colorfastness, colorfastness to sunlight was 1st grade for all the dyed fabrics. The colorfastness to laundry for discoloration showed from 1st to 4th grade and that for discoloration showed from 4th to 5th grade through all the dyed fabrics. Colorfastness to perspiration, rubbing, and drycleaning showed from 4th to 5th grade through all the dyed fabrics. In the result of antibiosis test, the dyed cotton fabric showed the bacteria reduction rate of 99.0% for Staphylococcus aureus and Escherichia coli evenly when washed one, three, and five times, The dyed silk fabric, when washed one, three, and five times, showed the bacteria reduction rate of 99.0% for Staphylococcus aureus, but didn't showed the significant bacteria reduction. As the test result of sun protection test, in the case of the cotton fabric which was dyed but don't use mordant, after one-time washing, S.P.F.(Sun Protection Factor) showed 20.4, the interception rate of UV-A showed 94.3%, and that of UV-B showed 95.2%. After five-time washing, S.P.F. showed 14.3, the interception rate of UV-A showed 90.0%, and that of UV-B showed 93.2%. In the case of the silk fabric which was dyed but don't use mordant, after one time washing, S.P.F. showed 30.5, the interception rate of UV-A showed 95.9%, and that of UV-B showed 96.9%, after five-time washing, S.P.F. showed 31.0, the interception rate of UV-A showed 95.6%, and that of UV-B showed 96.7%.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.6
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• pp.101-115
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• 2001

This study is to examine the characteristics of fabrics in Koryo dynasty by reviewing the fabrics for enshrining oblations inside a buddhist statue in MoonSoo temple, which are currently possessed in SooDuk temple. The research results follows : The fabrics are 33 pieces in total : 28 Pieces of normal fabrics, 5 pieces of fabrics that is used for covering the five grains, and others like variegated silk threads. Out of 33 pieces of fabrics are there 31 pieces of silk and 2 pieces of ramie. The tabby fabrics, which have the most pieces among the fabrics, are 11 pieces in total. There are 1 piece of designed tabby fabri. whose patterns are expressed by dyeing. as well as non-designed tabby fabric. The twill fabrics are 8 pieces in total. Its patterns are mainly the type that small patterns are consecutively reiterated. And they have various patterns including plant patterns, such as lotus pattern, flower pattern. etc., animal patterns such as dragon pattern. etc., geometric patterns. such as turtoise-shell pattern. swastika, etc. The leno and gauze fabrics are 1 piece of 4-end complex designed-gauze and 1 piece of gill gauze. The compound woven fabrics are 2 pieces of brocaded gauze and 3 pieces of brocaded twill. Brocaded gauze is a kind of brocaded fabrics and is made by adding a gold thread between wefts of already weaved gauze. The figured fabrics are 1 piece of tabby fabric, 6 pieces of twill fabrics, 4 pieces of leno and gauze fabrics, and 5 pieces of compound woven fabrics. All of them are 16 pieces out of all 33 pieces and amount to almost 50%. Single-patterned fabrics, that is one pattern is expressed individually, are much more than any others. Plant patterns are the ones that are used the most.

• Conservation Science in Museum
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• v.18
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• pp.35-50
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• 2017

As part of the NMK's research project on wooden Buddha statues, four items which contained fabric among their bokjang objects(腹藏物) were investigated. Firstly, when classified by the method of weaving, two items made of ra (羅, a four-end complex gauze) silk and five of neung(綾, twill damask) silk from the Goryeo era were identified, and the satin fabrics showing characteristics of the Joseon period were classified as either dan(緞, satin damask) or sa(紗, simple gauze). In particular, the fabric of the bokjang objects enshrined within the gilt-bronze Avalokiteshvara Bodhisattva(Deoksu 801) feature both early and late Joseon characteristics, suggesting that two enshrinements were performed(once in the fifteenth century and another in the seventeenth). Secondly, the patterns on the fabrics included flowers, treasures, fruits, plants with animals, and landscapes with clouds. Thirdly, patches of fabric were found that are assumed to be related with all cardinal directions according to their arrangement, albeit in small quantities.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.35 no.2
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• pp.82-96
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• 2023

The purpose of this study is to enhance the usability of hanji fabrics by expanding the color space of hanji fabrics. For the expression of various colors of hanji fabrics, single and combination dyeing were carried out using natural indigo(Niram, Polygonum tinctorium), marigold extract colorant, and madder extract colorant for three types of hanji fabrics with different fiber compositions(hanji, hanji/cotton, hanji/silk). The light, medium, and deep colors obtained through individual single dyeing were shown to be PB Munsell colors in the case of indigo dyeing, Y color for marigold dyeing, and R color for madder dyeing. For combination dyeing, indigo dyeing was first carried out under the conditions for light, medium, and deep colors, respectively, and marigold or madder dyeing was performed thereafter. Indigo and marigold combination dyeing produced PB, B, BG, G, and GY Munsell colors and indigo and madder combination dyeing produced PB, P, RP, and R Munsell colors. Overall, the color change of hanji/silk fabric was more diverse than that of hanji fabric and hanji/cotton fabric. In the indigo, marigold, and madder combination dyeing into individual deep colors, blackish PB and P Munsell colors was obtained. Colorfastness to washing, dry cleaning, rubbing, and light were relatively good with above rating 4. Finally, 9 colors excluding YR color out of 10 Munsell color were obtained. We confirmed that the expansion of the color space of Hanji fabrics by the single and combination dyeing with indigo, marigold, and madder.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.475-484
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• 2012

The purpose of this study is to help to prevent daily noises by measuring the noise absorption coefficient of the non-woven fabrics and wallpapers which are commonly used in lining and noise absorption coefficient of lining curtain. Seven types of fiber materials for the interior decoration, one non-woven fabric for the wallpaper linings, and two types of textiles for curtain linings are used as the experimental materials in this study. The noise absorption coefficient of the noise absorbents were measured by using impedance tube. And the thermal transmittance were measured by using thermal transmittance tester. The results of this study are as follows; Observing the noise absorption efficiency of each experimental materials, the combination of fiber materials and linings, the noise absorption efficiency of cotton, polyester and silk were similar and for the experimental materials of flax, rayon, acrylic and nylon were resulted the similar noise absorption efficiency. The result of combination of fiber material and black fabric was highest among the combined linings. For the combination of fiber material and non-woven fabric, double layers of non-woven fabric resulted slightly higher noise absorption coefficient result than single layer of non-woven fabric. The thermal transmittance and the sound absorbents of experimental materials were affected by the thickness, density and layer of air of the experimental materials.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.28 no.4
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• pp.492-507
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• 2020

This study aims to develop fashion designs that combine atlas fabric with the characteristics of Uygur costume to modernize the costume of the Xinjiang Uygur. Research contents and methods are as follows. First, based on previous studies, research analysis was conducted on the cultural background, clothing characteristics, and material of Uygur clothing. Second, based on such research contents, designs combining the characteristics of Uygur costume and atlas fabric were presented. Third, to analyze the utilization of atlas fabric and examine fabric characteristics, material was gathered from collections on domestic and foreign web sites. Through field explorations of local museums in the Xinjiang area, minority group culture was observed in more detail. Based on collection of traditional clothing and analysis of its characteristics, fashion designs that apply contemporary trends were developed. General silhouettes without any restrictions to the waist and decorations made using embroidery were often used. Atlas silk, developed in China using Ikat weaving methods, is an important traditional clothing fabric of the minority group Xinjiang. Based on such data collection analysis, the produced works highlighted traditional ethnic characteristics by extracting classical patterns of atlas fabric, modifying or partially expanding them, combining them with hand knitting, and adding contemporary sensations, thus providing confirmations of the possibility of popularizing classic patterns in more practical manners.