• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제9권1호
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• pp.1-11
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• 2007

This study suggests the new technique to express the texture that copes with the demands of the times by trying to apply the new Nuno-felt technique, to the silk, the representative material for emotion, in order to provide the basic data for the development of highly value added and competitive materials in the domestic and international markets as well as to meet the demand of consumers in the high emotion age pursuing the idiosyncrasy and qualify enhancement. Nuno-felt is the felting technique that places the wool of desired thickness on the thin fabric using wools and various kinds of fabric materials and rubs them. The samples are 3 kinds of silk including plain Chiffon with different touch, Pongee and Organza and Merino Wool, the best quality wool of wools. As a result, beyond the simple surface effect from the silk showing the superior drape feature with one color and soft wool, the Nuno-felt technique created the feminine as well as masculine, classic and modem image. Furthermore, the harmony of opacity and transparency produced the new dynamic and dimensional texture with the combination of different emotions through the visual emotion of different grey colors and rough, crude and soft touch. This study suggested the possibility that the Nuno-felt technique could create the new emotional materials for the modem sense by combining the materials with different features from the wools unlike the traditional simple felt technique.

• 복식
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• 제59권10호
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• pp.1-9
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• 2009

One piece of Jeogori and several books of the Goryeo dynasty were found inside of the wooden Buddhist Goddess of Mercy Statue of the Bogwang temple and they were designated as national treasure of Korea, No. 1571. The jeogori was the Jeogsam as the kind of underwear and conjectured as for women by considering its size. The collar of the jeogori was 3cm-wide square-shaped collar without gussit and the sleeve was close to straight line. Also the jeogori was designed without breast ties and could be adjusted by knot button. The fabrics for the jeogori showed similar pattern as complex silk gauze in 1302. It has not been reported yet that the complex silk gauze was used for the Jeogsam from Goryeo Dynasty to Joseon Dynasty. Comparing the Jeogori of the Bogwang temple to those of Goryeo Dynasty, it can be appropriately estimated as the remains of the Goryeo Dynasty since its shape and materials are very similar to those found in the Jeogori's of the Goryeo Dynasty and it was found between the books of the Goryeo Dynasty inside of the knee part of the wooden Buddhist Goddess of Mercy Statue of the Bogwang temple. Although only one piece of Jeogori was found, it's importance in cultural value or in the study of the fabric history cannot be underestimated considering the fact that the Jeogories of the Goryeo Dynasty are scarce, and that the used fabric was not commonly used complex silk gauze, and especially that this Jeogori is the only existing Jeogsam made of complex silk gauze.

• 복식
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• 제62권7호
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• pp.41-53
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• 2012

Hwangnamdaechong Tomb (The 98th tomb in Hwangnam-dong), one of the royal tombs located around the area of royal tomb of King Michu in Hwangnam-dong, Gyeongju, is currently designated as Historic Site No. 40. It is assumed that Hwangnamdaechong Tomb is a royal tomb of the early 5th century. This study aims to examine the fabric relics excavated from Hwangdamdawchong Tomb and currently housed in Gyeongju National Research Institute of Cultural Heritage. The types of fabrics excavated from Hwangdamdawchong Tomb include plain silk, warp-faced compound woven silk, and hemp cloth. Most of these fabrics are adhered to metal products that became rusty. Plain silk found in Hwangnamdaechong Tomb can be divided into four types by its weaving method. Geum excavated from Hwangnamdaechong Tomb is typical Gyeong Geum that uses colored warp for its base and pattern. It is plain Gyeong Geum that the binding weft and warp is plain woven. Although there are a lot of Gyeong Geum fabrics whose colors are hard to define due to yellowing after long years, there are still many fabrics whose color such as purple, red, blue, and green can be identified. As literatures have shown that p cloth as well as silk were frequently woven during Silla dynasty, tremendous amount of hemp cloth was excavated. Most of the hemp cloth has S-twist in the warp and 8-12 seung degree of delicacy.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제21권4호
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• pp.791-803
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• 2012

This study intends to identify applicability of natural dye extracted from Aplysia kurodai, aiming to standardization of Aplysia kurodai natural dyeing through scientific validation by analyzing characteristics of pigment elements to review dyeability, colorfastness and antibacterial activity. Such material as silk fabrics that is animal fiber were used for this purpose, and derived following summarized results. UV/VIS spectrum analysis on the pigment of Aplysia kurodai that was extracted from purple gland showed that maximum absorbtion was near 540 nm. The silk fabric optimal dyeing can be achieved at a temperature of $55^{\circ}C$ with a colorant concentration of 5%. Dyed at $55^{\circ}C$ with interval of 10~90 minutes for identifying dye uptake over time to observed slow increase of dye uptake over time, and equilibrium occurred at 50 minutes. For dye uptake according to pH, while dye uptake was superior in acidity, it decreased rapidly in a base after pH 7. For color changes according to pH variation, it was reddish purple in acidity and was purplish red in a base. For color changes according to mordanting method, more clear color change had been obtained when process with aluminium pre-mordanting than non-mordanting and post-mordanting. The colorfastness to light, perspiration and washing was 1, 4~5, and 3~4 ratings respectively. The silk fabric dyed with Aplysia kurodai demonstrated excellent antimicrobial activity to Staphylococcus aureus and Klebsiella pneumoniae. The Aplysia kurodai can be used as a new colorant for the natural dyeing of silk.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제27권3_4호
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• pp.364-372
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• 2003

In this study, the characteristics of catechol tannin and pyrogallol tannin contained in Pteridium aquilinum were analysed by It spectrum. Silk fabrics were dyed with Pteridium aquilinum extracts using various mordants, and their dyeing properties were discussed. Additionally the fastness the water digestion, perspiration liquid digestion and light irradiation were investigated. IR spectrum of catechol tannin showed bands of O-H at $3417cm^{-1}$, C-H at $2930cm^{-1}$, C=0 at $1722cm^{-1}$, C=C at $1644cm^{-1},\;CH_2\;at\;1402cm^{-1}$. And IR spectrum of pyrogallol tannin showed bands of O-H at $3409cm^{-1}$, C-H at $3003cm^{-1}\;and\;2933cm^{-11}$, C=0 at $1701cm^{-1}$, C=C at $1582cm^{-11},\;CH_2\;at\;1410cm^{-1}$, CO at carboxylic acid and carboxylic acid ester at $1287cm^{-1}\;and\;1135cm^{-1}$. The maximum absorption wavelength of the extracts appeared at 270.0nm and 311.5nm. The optimum conditions for dyeing silk fabric with Pteridium aquilinum extracts were $80^{\circ}C$, 60min. Surface color of the silk fabric dyed with Pteridium aquilinum extracts was 2.7Y Surface color of the pre-mordanted fabrics with Al, Cu and Fe were 4.3Y, 2.5Y and 4.7Y, respectively. And Surface color of the post-mordanted fabrics with Al, Cu and Fe were 3.7Y, 2.8Y and 0.2GY. The water fastness and the alkaline perspiration fastness were improved in the Al-mordanted silk fabrics. By acidic and alkaline perspiration treatment, ${\Delta}E of the unmordanted fabrics was lower than hat of pre- and post- mordanted fabrics. Also after 40hour irradiation, ${\Delta}E of the unmordanted fabrics was lower than that of pre- and post- mordanted fabrics.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제8권3호
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• pp.52-58
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• 1996

In order to study an applicable level for the graft finish of silk filaments and the characteristics of silk fabric, some sample fabrics were woven with grafted weft and the characteristics of sample fabrics were analyzed to evaluate the mechanical properites and the handle values according to the graft yield(%) of MMA and HEMA monomers on silk filaments. 1. The tensile properties were detected in the increase of linearity(LT) and the recovery in time of the increasing resilience(RT). 2. The bending properties were detected to have a lot of effect on the balance of bending rigidity(B) to hysteresis(2HB) according to the elastic relaxation of warp tension and the interlacing stress. 3. The shearing properities were detected to show the softness and the elastics in a case of the decrease in shearing rigidity(G) and hysteresis(2HG, 2HG5) according to the graft yields. 4. The compression properties were detected in the decrease of linearity(LC) and the uniformity of resilience(RC). It explains that the tendancies of compressible variation is not accepted. 5. The surface properities were detected to be affected by the surface forms of grafted silk filaments and the variation in the morphologies of interlacing sections. Considering the interlacing eveness, MMA grafted fabrics were accepted within the level of WOMEN'S THIN DRESS(KN-201-LDY) but HEMA grafted fabrics were not accepted. 6. The variation of handles were detected in the increase of total hand(TAV) within the levels of 65% of KOSHI and 82% of HARI on the average. 7. The handle fashions were detected in the nature of Habuta and Dechine from MAA graft but the nature of Fugi were shaped from HEMA graft in proportion to the graft yields.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제20권4호
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• pp.105-115
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• 2018

This paper presents an investigation into Cheollik based on 288 records about it at the homepage of The Annals of the Joseon Dynasty on the Internet. Cheollik was called in diverse names and worn by various social classes from kings to common people, but it was solidified as clothes for military officers toward the latter half of Joseon. Not only did it serve the purpose of clothes, but it also was used for a royal grant, diplomacy, shrouding a corpse, and royal coffin. It served the diplomatic purposes a lot especially during the reign of King Sejo and King Seongjong. Cheollik was usually made of cotton, hemp, silk, and mixed fabric with silk used most. Its major colors include white, green, red, blue, black, purple, grey, and yellow with white used most. The fabrics and colors of Cheollik became simplified toward the latter half of Joseon. Silk was most used in Cheollik for a royal grant, shrouding a corpse, and royal coffin. White was most used in Cheollik for kings' visit to royal tombs or their participation in ancestral rites. There were limitations with the selection of materials according to the social status and situations. It was stipulated that only Sa and Ju were used to make Cheollik for Dangsangguan and Danghaguan. Cheollik made of silk was banned for country residents and merchants. The color of Cheollik for Danghaguan was changed to blue and then red. Of military officers, only those who had a Gonsu title or higher were allowed to wear Cheollik made of silk in various colors. In the end, Cheollik was abolished for its low convenience and efficiency during the rule of King Gojong.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제20권5호
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• pp.608-615
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• 2018

The purpose of this study is to investigate the dyeability and functional properties of dyed fabric with the extract of Myrica rubra rind. For this purpose, the ultraviolet and visible spectra of the bark extracts were investigated. The dyeing temperature, dyeing time, mordant type, mordanting order, mordant concentration and dyeability were investigated. The color fastness based on washing, dry-cleaning, rubbing and light were evaluated by the types of Myrica rubra rind extract used. In addition, the deodorization and antibacterial activity were measured, and the functionality of the silk fabric dyed with the extract of the Myrica rubra rind was evaluated. The result shows that the color strength of the dye was excellent when the Myrica rubra rind was dyed at $80^{\circ}C$ for 80 minutes. The mordant dye color strength was high in the order of Fe mordant> Cu mordant> Al mordant. The dyeability of Al and Cu mordant was high during pre-mordanting compared to Fe mordant, and the dyeability of Fe mordant was high during post-mordanting than Cu and Al mordant. The deodorant property of the dyed fabric stained with the Myrica rubra rind extract was 92.4% and that of antibacterial property was 99.9% for Staphylococcus aureus and Klebsiella pneumoniae bacteria respectively.

• 복식
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• 제64권4호
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• pp.118-130
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to measure the touching stimulus level of EEG for fabrics to create a reference data for product planning of clothes with touching characteristics of high satisfaction. The subjects were composed of 6 female college students and their EEG level was measured while they touched 6 kinds of Korean traditional silk fabric. The results are as follows: 1. Shantung and Myoungju showed the highest and the lowest values of alpha for the touching stimulus respectively. The fabric of Shantung showed high values of alpha, beta, theta, delta, gamma, high-beta and SMR for the touching stimulus. 2. The values of beta were the highest with Shantung and the lowest with Nobangju for the touching stimulus. 3. The highest values of theta and delta for the touching stimulus was assigned to Shantung and the lowest belonged to Gabsa. 4. The highest values of gamma for the touching stimulus was assigned to Shantung and the lowest belonged to Gongdan. 5. The highest value of SMR for the touching stimulus was assigned to Santung, and the lowest belonged to Gongdan and Nobangju. 6. The highest values of high-beta for the touching stimulus was assigned to Shantung and the lowest belonged to Gabsa and Gongdan.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제35권3호
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• pp.336-346
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• 2011

Dyeing properties of protein fiber with bamboo colorants were studied by investigating the effect of dyeing conditions such as dye concentration, dyeing temperatures, times on dye uptakes, effect of mordants, and color change. The various colorfastness of dyed fabrics were evaluated for practical use. In addition, the antimicrobial ability, ultraviolet-cut ability, and deodorant ability were estimated. The dye uptake increased as the dyeing concentration increased. Bamboo colorants showed relatively good affinity to protein fiber and produced a yellow color. Dye uptake increased as the dyeing time and temperature increased. Post-mordanting was more effective than pre-mordanting. Mordants, Fe and N.Fe, were effective for increasing dye uptake. The color of fabric mordanted with Cu and N.Cu changed to GY. Colorfastness of dyed fabrics showed a relatively good rating, and mordanting had no significant effect on colorfastness. Dyed silk fabric showed very good antimicrobial abilities of 99.9%. Also, ultraviolet-cut ability and deodorant ability were improved in silk fabric dyed with bamboo extracts.