• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.24 no.3
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• pp.429-439
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• 2000

This study was aimed to investigate the handle and mechanical properties of silk woven fabrics according to the fabric structure and yarn types 56 male and female students evaluated 16 black specimens with semantic differential scale of 20 hand adjectives. Mechanical parameters such as surface properties, bending properties and compression properties were tested using by KES-FS system. Data were analyzed through factor analysis, pearson correlation coefficient and t-test using PC SAS package. The results were as follows: The hand adjectives were grouped as 4 'surface roughness', 'flexibility', ;sense of thermal', and 'dryness'. 'Surface roughness' was highly sensed at satin fabrics of hard-twist yarn, noil yarn and spun yarn, while it was not at the fabrics of normal satin and twill at all. 'Flexibility' was reverse to 'surface roughness'. Thermal sense was felt highly at satin fabrics of noil-yarn, while low at plain fabrics of normal yarn. 'Dryness' was high at satin fabrics of hard-twist yarn and while it was low at normal satin fabrics. Predicted equations for subjective hand from mechanical properties of fabrics were developed using Stevens's law and stepwise regression and the coefficients of determination were high.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.134-147
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• 2014

The aim of this study is to create smart wear that brings out the perspective person's individuality and creativity wearing these garments through various interactions. It is intended to build a prototype for a "Shape-folding Dress", which is length-adjustable skirt that responses with the environment of the wearer. In this process, four basic physical properties can be identified with fabric samples selected which are relatively stiff, including fusible interlining, organdy, silk, and ramie. In addition, two types of folding pattern specimens, "Basic Pattern" and "Diamond Pattern", and heat-steam were used to make the specimens so that the correlation could be calculated by recovery rate among flexing, stiffness and tensile properties. As a result, compared to other fabrics, the silk showed low stress to repeat folding and unfolding process, and its recovery rate of elongation deformation was stable without being affected by the different folding types and twice repeated process. In this study, forming a circuit using an Arduino, illuminance sensor, motors, and pulley, the prototype was created with a silk fabric.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.23 no.4
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• pp.95-103
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• 2021

This study aims to examine the antibacterial effects of cotton and silk fabrics naturally dyed with Artemisia princeps extract on antibiotic-resistant strains of bacteria. The concentrated natural dye of the Artemisia princeps extract was made at the liquor ratio of 1:10 at 40-60℃ for 60 minutes. The concentration of FeSO4·7H2O, Al2(SO4)3, and CuSO4 5H2O mordant was 3% (owf), and the liquor ratio was 1:20. In order to experiment on the antimicrobial activity of the naturally dyed fabrics, Methicillin-resistant Staphylococcus aureus (MRSA) ATCC 33591, was used by breeding it in Brain Heart Infusion Agar (BHA) containing Oxacillin (2㎍/ml), Fungizone (2.5㎍/ml), and Brain Heart Infusion broth (BHI; Detroit, MI, USA). As a result of examining the bacterial growth reduction rate on dyed cotton and silk fabrics against antibiotic-resistant strains, it was found that the copper mordant in cotton fabric shows the highest antibacterial activity with a bacterial growth reduction rate of 99.9%, and the non-mordant cotton fabric shows the lowest antibacterial activity with a reduction rate of 18.6%. In the case of the naturally dyed silk fabric, it indicates the highest reduction rate of strains in the Al mordanting (94.9%), and Cu mordanting (99.9%).

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.27 no.1
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• pp.42-46
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• 1985

Silk fabric was printed with the reactive dye (vinylsulfone type) to investigate the change of adsorption and fixation by steaming time, viscosity of dyeing paste and alkali concentration. It was found that the amount of adsorption and fixation against silk increased with the increase of steaming time, and showed the maximum value at 340cp of dyeing paste. The amount of adsorption and fixation was influenced by alkali concentration. Light, washing, and perspiration fastness were very excellent.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.5 no.3
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• pp.1-6
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• 2003

The purpose of this study was to investigate the dyeability and color fastness of cotton and silk fabrics dyed with extract of Arrowroot leaf princeps. The experimental items were divided into the mordant treatment, component of fabric and kind of mordants. The experimental study was done by laundering, abrasion(dry/wet), perspiration(acid/alkali), light fastness, color difference by C.C.M system and K/S test. The summerized finding reulted from experiment and investigation are suggested as follows : In the C.C.M and K/S test on mordanting method and kind of fabric, that of silk and cotton was the most effective in the pre mordant treatment. In the C.C.M and K/S analysis on 5 mordants, that of silk and cotton was significantly improved when mordants was treatmented. Especially, that of Fe mordanting treatment was higher than Al, Cu, Cr and none. In color fastness on mordants, laundering, perspiration and abrasion fastness showed 4-5 grade but light fastness showed 1-3 grade.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.10 no.3
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• pp.367-372
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• 2007

This study surveys the silk sensitivity technology of nylon filament using fluid system. For this purpose, taslan texturing ATY m/c is modified and 4 kinds of nylon filaments with 40d/12f are made using functional chemicals on the modified ATY texturing machine. Using these yarns, 4 kinds of fabrics are woven and processed on the dyeing and finishing. The various physical properties of these fabrics such as water contents, UV-cut, fabric hand are measured and discussed with ATY texturing and functional chemical treatment conditions.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.10 no.5
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• pp.532-541
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• 2002

An empirical review on silk fabrics of the Chosun period showed that they varied in kind and design according to their uses. Thus the purpose of this study is to classify the fabrics into excavated and temple fabrics according to their uses and collected places and then to examine characteristics of each type. Excavated fabrics were most accounted for by tabby fabric, followed by satin, twill, leno and gauze and union cloth. Tabby fabric was most used throughout the Chosun period, followed by satin. This is supported by many literary records. Concerning excavated dresses of the same period, tabby fabric, especially Ju was the main material, followed by satin. Leno and gauze fabric was much less used than in the Koryo period. Among excavated dresses surveyed in this study, none was made of compound woven fabrics such as Brocade. Other excavation reports said that Brocade had been used for a cuff of coat in few cases, if any. Tabby fabric was widely used for both the right side and lining while twill and satin fabrics were mainly adapted to weave the right side because they had luster higher than the former, smooth sense of touching and unique designs.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.45 no.1
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• pp.180-199
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• 2021

This study investigated natural aroma fragrance on the fashion image of Galchon, a traditional natural dyeing textile made with immature persimmon from the Jeju area, Korea. Nine fabric pairs consisting of differently colored cotton and silk Galchon with various tones and fabric types were used for subjective evaluation. Thirty five female college students evaluated the specimens using a 7-point scale questionnaire for fashion image-related adjectives. A specimen with three different presentation types that included fabric without fragrance (FO), fabric with citrus fragrance, and fabric with chamaecyparis (FCP) were randomly provided to a subject. As a result, color variables of Galchon were found to be the primary influence on fashion images for both cotton and silk Galchon that showed interaction effects with presentation types. The citrus fragrance increased the feeling of 'Active' while chamaecyparis tended to contribute to a stronger perception of 'Elegance' for cotton Galchon. Finally, these results were used to develop prediction models for fashion images of Galchon that employed color variables and presentation types.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.6 no.6
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• pp.785-798
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• 2004

Silk has always been coveted as the finest and richest of all fibers woven into cloth. The earlist woven silk fragments found to date come from the third century B.C. The filament created and spun into cocoon by the larva of the silk moth, silk was exported from China to Europe from as early as the third century B.C. Silk industry is export leading industry that guide national textile industry development after the 1960s in Korea. Korean silk industry reached to peak at 1975 is displaying appearance that export scale is decreased recently. Various kinds methods can be proposed for high value added in silk industry, the research about color is essential. The importance of color is increasing in modern textile and fashion industry. Color is important factor of textile and fashion industry because color affects strong influence in human's sensitivity. Silk fabric can give high added value developing high sensitivity color because dye ability is superior. In this study I planned the "Utility Silk Color Code 288" for efficient color management in silk industry. "Utility Silk Color Code 288" are attached the Munsell notation and dyeing data which can reappear the color when needed. This research constructs for insufficient domestic color infrastruction and expect that basic role to develop the competitive power for Korean silk industry.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.13 no.3
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• pp.165-171
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• 2001

In this study, UV/vis. spectra of color solution extracted from onion shell and dyeing properties of polyamide fibers such as wool, silk, and nylon were investigated. Also, the effect of mordanting on wash fastness and light fastness was Investigated. The amount of colors extracted was increased with extracting temperature and time. The wavelength of maximum absorption of onion shell extract corresponds to flavonol peak and quercetin peak. Also, spectra of color solution were shifted to longer wavelength at higher pH values. It appeared that the optimum condition of the dyeing of wool, nylon, and silk fabrics with onion shell extract was $60^\circ{C}$ , 30min, and pH 4.0 of dyed bath. Surface colors of the dyed fabrics were different according to the used mordants: Al and Cr mordanted fabrics were dyed in yellowish colors, Cu mordanted fabric in greenish color, Sn mordanted fabric in orange color, and Fe mordanted fabric in khaki color. The mordanting was effective at improving wash fastness and light fastness.