Journal of Fashion Business (패션비즈니스)

The Korean Society of Fashion Business (한국패션비즈니스학회)
권호 표지
DOI QR코드

DOI QR Code

A Study on Change of Pleats Shape and Fabric Properties: Interactive Shape-folding E-textile with Arduino

  • Lee, Euna (Dept. of Clothing and Textiles, Ewha Womans University) ;
  • Kim, Jongjun (Dept. of Clothing and Textiles, Ewha Womans University)
  • Received : 2014.07.01
  • Accepted : 2014.07.18
  • Published : 2014.07.30
Download PDF
⟨ Previous Next ⟩

Abstract

The aim of this study is to create smart wear that brings out the perspective person's individuality and creativity wearing these garments through various interactions. It is intended to build a prototype for a "Shape-folding Dress", which is length-adjustable skirt that responses with the environment of the wearer. In this process, four basic physical properties can be identified with fabric samples selected which are relatively stiff, including fusible interlining, organdy, silk, and ramie. In addition, two types of folding pattern specimens, "Basic Pattern" and "Diamond Pattern", and heat-steam were used to make the specimens so that the correlation could be calculated by recovery rate among flexing, stiffness and tensile properties. As a result, compared to other fabrics, the silk showed low stress to repeat folding and unfolding process, and its recovery rate of elongation deformation was stable without being affected by the different folding types and twice repeated process. In this study, forming a circuit using an Arduino, illuminance sensor, motors, and pulley, the prototype was created with a silk fabric.

Keywords

References

  1. Buri, H., & Weinand, Y. (2008). ORIGAMI-Folded plate structures, architecture. Proceedings of 10th World Conference on Timber Engineering, Miyazaki, Japan.
  2. Buechley, L., & Eisenberg, M. (2009). Fabric PCBs, electronic sequins, and socket buttons: Techniques for e-textile craft. Personal Ubiquitous Comput., 13(2), 133-150. https://doi.org/10.1007/s00779-007-0181-0
  3. Choi, K., Kim, J., & Song, N. (2012). A study on the analysis of 3D scanning of knit stitches and modeling system-jersey, rib, and cable stitches. Journal of Fashion Business, 16(3), 125-135. https://doi.org/10.12940/jfb.2012.16.3.125
  4. Hallnas, L., & Redstrom, J. (2006). Interaction design: Foundations, Experiments. Boras, Sweden: The Interactive Institute Publishing, Ltd.
  5. Holdaway, H. (1960). Behavior of sample pleated strips of wool fabric in an extensometer part II: Modifications due to pleat curvature and other second order effects. Textile Research Journal, 30(6), 456-461. https://doi.org/10.1177/004051756003000607
  6. Hu, J. (2004). Structure and mechanics of woven fabrics. Cambridge UK: Woodhead Publishing, Ltd.
  7. Jackson, P. (2011). Folding techniques for designers: From sheet to form. NY: Laurence King Publishing, Ltd.
  8. Kang, M., & Kwon, Y. (2010). Improvement of wrinkle recovery and functional properties in linen fabrics. Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, 34(11), 1859-1869. https://doi.org/10.5850/JKSCT.2010.34.11.1859
  9. Katz, H. (1966). Wrinkling behavior of wool fabrics part I: A multiple-pleat test. Textile Research Journal, 36(10), 874-887. https://doi.org/10.1177/004051756603601004
  10. Kearney, K. (1992). Mariano fortuny's delphos robe: Some possible methods of pleating and the permanence of the pleats. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 10(3), 86-91. https://doi.org/10.1177/0887302X9201000311
  11. Kim, E., & Csiszar, E. (2005). Chemical finishing of linen and ramie fabrics. Journal of Natural Fibers, 2(3), 39-52. https://doi.org/10.1300/J395v02n03_04
  12. Kim, J., & Choi, J. (2007). 고감성 텍스타일 [High sensitivity textile expression technique]. Seoul: Ewha Womans University Press.
  13. Kim, M., & Kim, J. (2013). A study on three-dimensional effects and deformation of textile fabrics: Dynamic deformations of silk fabrics. Journal of Fashion Business, 17(6), 28-43. https://doi.org/10.12940/jfb.2013.17.6.28
  14. Ko, Y., & Kim, J. (2013). Effect of fabric properties used for the loop type decorative elements on the 3-dimensional shape. Journal of Fashion Business, 17(3), 30-47. https://doi.org/10.12940/jfb.2013.17.3.30
  15. Lee, Y., & Kim, J. (2011). A study on the drape profile analysis of the apparel textiles and 3D virtual textiles using a 3D digital clothing software. Journal of Fashion Business, 15(5), 103-114.
  16. McCarty, C., & McQuaid, M. (1998). Structure and surface: Contemporary Japanese textiles. NY: The Museum of Modern Art.
  17. Perovich, L., Mothersill, P., & Farah, J. B. (2014). Awakened apparel: Embedded soft actuators for expressive fashion and functional garments. Proceedings of the 8th International Conference on Tangible, Embedded and Embodied Interaction, 77-80.
  18. Prevorsek, D., Butler, R., & Lamb, G. (1975). Influence of fiber properties on wrinkling behavior of fabrics part I: Procedures and apparatus. Textile Research Journal, 45(1), 60-67. https://doi.org/10.1177/004051757504500111
  19. Seymour, S. (2008). Fashionable Technology, The Intersection of Design, Fashion, Science, and Technology. NY: Springer Vienna Publishing, Ltd.
  20. Singh, A. V., Rahman, A., Sudhir Kumar, N., Aditi, A., Galluzzi, M., Bovio, S., Parazzoli, D. (2012). Bio-inspired approaches to design smart fabrics. Materials & Design, 36, 829-839. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.matdes.2011.01.061
  21. Sparks, D. (2004). Explorations in pleated fabric garment structures. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 22(1-2), 38-43. https://doi.org/10.1177/0887302X0402200106