• 한국항만학회지
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• 제8권1호
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• pp.41-47
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• 1994

The present paper discusses the nonlinear wave deformation due to a submerged coastal structure. Theory is based on the frequency-domain method using the third order perturbation and boundary integral method. Theoretical development to the second order perturbation and boundary integral method. Theoretical development to the second order Stokes wave for a bottom-seated submerged breakwater to the sea floor is newly expanded to the third order for a submerged coastal structure shown in Figure 1. Validity is demonstrated by comparing numerical results with the experimental ones of a rectangular air chamber structure, which has the same dimensions as that of this study. Nonlinear waves become larger and larger with wave propagation above the crown of the structure, and are transmitted to the onshore side of the structure. These characteristics are shown greatly as the increment of Ursell number on the structure. The total water profile depends largely on the phase lag among the first, second and third order component waves.

• 한국지구과학회지
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• 제22권3호
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• pp.179-185
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• 2001

토양이나 암반의 물성을 조사하기 위하여 시추공조사가 흔히 이루어진다. 그러나 시추조사의 결과는 불연속적이고 시추공과 시추공 사이의 물성은 두 시추공의 조사결과를 내삽하여 구할 수 밖 에 없다. 그러나 이러한 내삽법을 이용한 해석은 지반의 수평적 변화가 심하지 않은 경우에만 가능하다. 연약지반의 연속적인 2차원 S파 속도구조를 구하기 위하여 표면파 역산 방법을 사용하였다. 역산 결과를 해석하기 위하여 역산 결과의 해상도를 역산 결과와함께 제시하였다.

• 지구물리와물리탐사
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• 제9권1호
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• pp.108-113
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• 2006

일반적인 물리탐사기법은 도심지 내에서 구조물, 전도성 지하매설물, 차량 등 인공 잡음으로 인하여 그 적용성에 많은 제약을 받는다. 특히 이 과업은 철도가 운행 중인 철로 하부의 지반 정보의 획득을 목적으로 하는데, 이를 위한 일반적인 물리탐사 적용이 어려웠으며 그 대안으로 선형배열 상시진동 탄성파탐사를 적용하였다. 상시진동 탐사(mircotremor survey)기법에는 철로를 운행하는 기차와 주변 도로의 차량에 의한 진동이 오히려 양호한 송신원으로 활용 될 수 있다. 선형배열 상시진동 탐사기법에서는 일반적인 굴절법 장비를 이용하여 일상적인 진동을 기록하고, 파동장의 변환을 수행하여 표면파의 분산곡선을 얻는다. 이후 발췌한 분산곡선에 대한 반복적인 수치모델링을 통하여 전단파 속도를 구한다. 이 과업에서는 기존 철로를 따라 하부의 터널심도까지의 전단파 속도를 전체 터널구간에 대하여 얻기 위하여 40 m 간격으로 선형배열을 이동하면서 자료를 획득하였다. 측선상의 시추를 통하여 회수한 코어를 이용한 실내시험을 통한 RMR 의 구성요소 중 하나인 일축압축강도와 전단파 속도와의 높은 상관관계를 확인하여 RMR이 전단파 속도와 연관성이 있음을 유추할 수 있었다. 시추공에서 수행한 SPS 검층에서 획득한 전단파 속도와 RMR의 비교한 결과 전단파 속도와 RMR이 높은 상관관계에 있음을 확인할 수 있었다. 상시진동 탐사기법을 통하여 획득한 전단파 속도 역시 RMR과의 양호한 상관관계를 나타냄을 알 수 있었다. 이러한 상관관계를 이용하여 도심지 철도터널 전체 구간에서 터널 설계시 필수적인 암반분류를 위한 RMR 추정이 가능하였다.

• Ocean Systems Engineering
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• 제6권1호
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• pp.23-60
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• 2016

The major objective of this study was to develop further understanding of 3D nearshore hydrodynamics under a variety of wave and tidal forcing conditions. The main tool used was a comprehensive 3D numerical model - combining the flow module of Delft3D with the WAVE solver of XBeach - of nearshore hydro- and morphodynamics that can simulate flow, sediment transport, and morphological evolution. Surf-swash zone hydrodynamics were modeled using the 3D Navier-Stokes equations, combined with various turbulence models (${\kappa}-{\varepsilon}$, ${\kappa}-L$, ATM and H-LES). Sediment transport and resulting foreshore profile changes were approximated using different sediment transport relations that consider both bed- and suspended-load transport of non-cohesive sediments. The numerical set-up was tested against field data, with good agreement found. Different numerical experiments under a range of bed characteristics and incident wave and tidal conditions were run to test the model's capability to reproduce 3D flow, wave propagation, sediment transport and morphodynamics in the nearshore at the field scale. The results were interpreted according to existing understanding of surf and swash zone processes. Our numerical experiments confirm that the angle between the crest line of the approaching wave and the shoreline defines the direction and strength of the longshore current, while the longshore current velocity varies across the nearshore zone. The model simulates the undertow, hydraulic cell and rip-current patterns generated by radiation stresses and longshore variability in wave heights. Numerical results show that a non-uniform seabed is crucial for generation of rip currents in the nearshore (when bed slope is uniform, rips are not generated). Increasing the wave height increases the peaks of eddy viscosity and TKE (turbulent kinetic energy), while increasing the tidal amplitude reduces these peaks. Wave and tide interaction has most striking effects on the foreshore profile with the formation of the intertidal bar. High values of eddy viscosity, TKE and wave set-up are spread offshore for coarser grain sizes. Beach profile steepness modifies the nearshore circulation pattern, significantly enhancing the vertical component of the flow. The local recirculation within the longshore current in the inshore region causes a transient offshore shift and strengthening of the longshore current. Overall, the analysis shows that, with reasonable hypotheses, it is possible to simulate the nearshore hydrodynamics subjected to oceanic forcing, consistent with existing understanding of this area. Part II of this work presents 3D nearshore morphodynamics induced by the tides and waves.

• 천문학논총
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• 제10권1호
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• pp.15-30
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• 1995

It has been recognized that the morphologies of the SNRs from the radio observation are "barrel shaped". To interpret the mechanism of the radiation and the physical state of the environments, we have analytically calculated the dynamical structure of the interacting region in the case where the ejectum has a steep power-law density profile($\rho{\sim}r^{-n}$) and the ambient medium has a shallow power-law density profile($\rho{\sim}r^{-s}$), assuming that the cosmic rays are isotropically accelerated in the shock wave and the magnetic fields are very weak. The calculated synchrotron radio maps show that the emission from the equator is intense and the emissions from the central and polar regions are less intense. Also the thicknesses of the shell are strongly dependent on s and weakly on n. The azimuthal intensity ratio $\alpha$ increases as the efficiency of the cosmic ray acceleration increases and s decreases. We compared the results with the morphology of the SNR A. D. 1006(type I SNR). It does agree with the case of s = 0, w = 0.3 - 0.5. This value for w is consistent with the results by Eichler(1979). It provides us the evidence of the cosmic ray acceleration in the shock wave.

• 한국해양공학회지
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• 제19권2호
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• pp.29-33
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• 2005

The accuracy of predicting wave transformation in the nearshore is very important to wave hydrodynamics, sediment transport, and design of coastal structures. Numerical experiments are conducted to identify the shoaling and breaking characteristics of a fully nonlinear Boussinesq equation-based model. Simulated shoaling showed good agreement with the Shouto's formula, and the results of the breaking experiment agreed well with experimented data, over several beach profile.

• Journal of applied mathematics & informatics
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• 제42권1호
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• pp.105-121
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• 2024

We consider incompressible, inviscid, stratified shear flows in β plane. First, we obtained an unbounded instability region intersect with semi-ellipse region. Second, we obtained a bounded instability regions depending on Coriolis, stratification parameters and basic velocity profile. Third, we obtained a criterion for wave stability. This has been illustrated with standard examples. Also, we obtained upper bound for growth rate.

• 산업기술연구
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• 제16권
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• pp.83-95
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• 1996

The equilibrium beach profiles with the effects of random waves and nonuniform grain size in the surf zone are derived from the Thornton and Guza(1983)'s energy dissipation model. The derived beach profiles are the functions of the breaking wave strength, the frequency of the incident wave, and the wave induced-energy dissipation at breaking point. It is not confirmed that the equilibrium beach profiles are better agreement with the measured profiles than the classical profiles. However, the characteristic of the changes of the beach profiles with respect to the breaking wave stgrngth and the frequency of the incident wave can be analyzed which has not been studied by the classical model.

• Geomechanics and Engineering
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• 제13권5호
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• pp.775-791
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• 2017

Surface wave techniques are widely used as non-invasive method for geotechnical site characterization. Field surface wave data are collected and analyzed using different processing techniques to generate the dispersion curves, which are further used to extract the shear wave velocity profile by inverse problem solution. Characteristics of a dispersion curve depend on the subsurface layering information of a vertically heterogeneous medium. Sometimes soft layer can be found between two stiff layers in the vertically heterogeneous media, and it can affect the wave propagation dramatically. Now most of the surface wave techniques use the fundamental mode Rayleigh wave propagation during the inversion, but this may not be the actual scenario when a soft layer is present in a vertically layered medium. This paper presents a detailed and comprehensive study using finite element method to examine the effect of soft layers which sometimes get trapped between two high velocity layers. Determination of the presence of a soft layer is quite important for proper mechanical characterization of a soil deposit. Present analysis shows that the thickness and position of the trapped soft layer highly influence the dispersion of Rayleigh waves while the higher modes also contribute in the resulting wave propagation.

• Ocean Systems Engineering
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• 제14권3호
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• pp.211-235
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• 2024

Th COP28 has emphasized the governments to speed up the transition away from fossil fuels to renewables such as wind and solar power in their next round of climate commitments. The steady and less turbulent wind over the ocean draws increased attention of governments, industries and researchers on exploring advanced technologies to extract energy from offshore wind. The present study numerically investigates the hydrodynamic behavior of a SPAR-type Floating Offshore Wind Turbine (FOWT) under various wave conditions and mooring line configurations. One of the major focuses of this study is investigating a freak wave's impact on a FOWT and determining its extreme responses. The study investigates the structural response under various wave impact for different configurations of mooring lines. The present study examines the wave-structure interaction under regular and freak wave conditions using numerical modelling approach. During the study, it is ensured that the natural frequency and wave induced motions of SPAR are inline with the experimental studies; thereby increasing the confidence in using the numerical model and domain for this investigation. The study considers the behaviour of slack and taut mooring arrangements under these wave conditions. The study observed that a taut mooring configuration can be efficient in restraining the FOWT motions, especially under a freak wave scenario. The Froude-Krylov force shows a non-linearity due to the non-uniform profile of the platform under all wave conditions. Overall, the study contributes to determining the performance of the mooring configurations under different wave conditions.