• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.35
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• pp.293-304
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• 1997

This paper is a study on the expression of Clothing and Textiles recorded in $\boxDr$Eigamono-katary$\boxUl$This book is a novel de-scribed the Royal Court from 883 till 1107. In this book many kinds of Garments Orna-ments Colors and Materials were mentioned. But in this paper 69 kinds of Garments and Ornaments were reserched and the rest will be reported in the next paper, The discoveries of this paper were as follows. 1. All the things of this book were reflections of the reality in Heian period. 2. The main styling of that period was a little bit soft but the straight silhouette were fashioned, . In that time Clothing had a special meaning and the manner for a fashion was very important, .3 In the female garments Karakoromo were developed many kinds of pattern by dyeing method, Especially the Surizome was fashioned very much. 4. there were many kinds of gray tone like as clerical robe and mouning dress. This was the effection of Buddism style. 5. The decoration of fablics and garments were usualized for instance smooding and luster by beating and starch sewuing a piece of gold silver and shell nakabe and knot bend. Shawl Yumaki and Kosizasi was a charming point of that time, . 6, hair decoration shose parasol rain coat etc, . were developed and use freuently.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.16 no.3
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• pp.87-99
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• 2014

This study aims to suggest a bag design focusing on the symbol of Bo patterns by developing a pattern-based textile which forms a Korean design with a modern sense of beauty as well as following the conventions of traditional cultures, a design which is based on the previous study on formative characteristics of Bo patterns. That is, seven pieces of motifs are considered as proper patterns that have a symbol suitable for the materials of bags, showing their individual beauty well. This includes Horomum (longevity and prosperity of desendants), Banjangmum (eternity and samsara), Jeonbomum (treasure and luck), Seobomum (innate good fortune), Bangseungmum (it means that things don't break in harmony with one another), Bomum (embroidered patches for royal family representing justice), and Seogakmum (blessed life). With these seven motifs, we developed textile patterns and printed them through DTP. Then, we created a fashion bag design with a high quality using durable canvas fabrics. Therefore, a fashion bag with the Bo patterns symbol has a propitious symbol designed with a propitious shape, not to mention its formative beauty. It is expected to have value as a fashion art item by being redesigned for benevolent patterns with a modern image.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50 no.4
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• pp.73-87
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• 2000

The court dancing suit, so-called "JeongJae(呈才) suit," has been worn by court dancers on the occasion of the royal court′s feasts or festivals such as auspicious events of a country, court banquets, and parties or receptions for national quests from foreign countries. There are 53 kinds of court dancing suits, ranging from the age of the ancient Three Kingdoms to the period of Chosun Dynasty. The court dancing suits are divided into two styles : DangAk-JeongJae(唐樂呈才) style and HyangAk-feongjae(鄕樂呈才) style, depending on dancing styles. Since the court dancing suits in the age of the ancient Three Kingdoms and Koryo Dynasty have already been studied previously, this study discussed the change of dancing suit styles created in the latter period of Chosun Dynasty, such as YukHwaDae(六花隊), MuSanHyang(舞山香) and ChoonAengJeon(春鶯), and the thought of Yin-Yang and five elements(陰陽五行思想) that the colors of the court dancing suits imply. The purpose of this study is to understand the thoughts contained in the ancient suits as well as their styles in order to inherit and uphold our traditional culture properly.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.2 s.111
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• pp.100-114
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• 2007

This study reports the dress style of Daesarye ceremony participants in the Yeong-Jo Era. The King Yeong-jo attending the archery practice ceremony wears Ikseonkwan(翼善冠), Golryongpo(袞龍袍), Okdae(玉帶), and Heukpihwa(黑皮靴) while royal family members and officers in the ceremony wear Heukdalryeong(黑團領). Each officer in Sangbok(常服) who shoots arrows wears a ring and a wristlet with an archery case on his waist. King's bodyguards wear Yungbok(戎服) or Sangbok(常服). Especially, Muyaebyeolgam(武藝別監) wears Hong-geon(紅巾) and a green Jikryeong(直領). Yujiang-gun(儀位軍) wear Pirip(皮笠) and Hongjuryi(紅紬衣) while Hyeopryeongun(狹輦軍) and Hyeopryeogun(狹輦軍) wear Hong-geon(紅巾), Hongyui((紅衣), Cheonghaengjeon(靑行纏), Hakchang(鶴雲), Hongmokdae(紅木帶), and Unhye(雲鞋). Gyeonmabae(牽馬陪) wear Hwangchorip(黃草笠) and Hwangyui(黃衣). Seupjeongun(拾箭軍) and Hwaekja(獲子) wear Jageon(紫巾), Jayui(紫衣), and Unhye(雲鞋). Jeonak(典樂) wears Mora- bokdu and Noksayui(綠抄衣), while Ak-kong(樂工) wear Hwahwabokdu, Hongjuyui(紅紬衣), Ojeongdae, and Heukpihwa(黑皮靴). Lastly, Hyeopryulrang(協律郎) wears Heukdalryeong(黑團領).

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.25
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• pp.157-169
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• 1995

The confucianism, the Taoism, the Budd-hism and the Folk-Faith actually coexisted and all of them had also widespread infuluence on the Chosun Society. This thesis is designed to study symbol of Color Scheme expressed in the clothing of Chosun dynasty. For this thesis I examined records of Royal archives, books containing lifestyle of Chosun dynasty, genre paintings, documantary pain-tings, excorcist clothing and existing remains. And I synthetically studied symbol of the Clothing Color Schemes in Chosun dynasty on the bases of theoretical researches. The result were as follows. There were many cases of 1. Upper·lowergarments : Red-Blue, White-Blue, White-Blue Color Schemes. 3. Exorcist clothing : Red-Red, Blue-Yellow, Blue-Blue Color Schemes. 4. Multy-colored stripes : Same color arrange-ments were avoided in Color Schemes. In the case of Green Wonsam, Blue-Red-Yellow-White Clothing Color Scheme was obvious. 5. Dance wear : Red-Blue, Yellow-Red Color Schemes. Generally more than anything else Blue-red Clothing Color Scheme was widely used. Be-sides Blue-Red Color Scheme, there were also many cases of Red-Yellow, White-Blue Cloth-ing Color Schemes. As a whole, compatible Color Schemes were more often used than in-compatible Color Schemes were used with various symbols that were based on color concept of Yin-Yang O-haeng, Tae-il theory Folk-Faith and so forth in Chosun dynasty.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.45
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• pp.41-54
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• 1999

The purpose of this thesis is to trace the development of cotton Early Chosun Period by examining the historical literary sources : such as production of cotton various uses of cotton trade with other countries The developement process of cotton fabrics during this period can be divided into three stages. The first stage which can be discribed as a settling period lasted 27 years from A.D. 1392 to 1418. In this stage cotton fabrics were just about to be used as fabrics for popular clothing. The second stage which can be discribed as a developmental period lasted 50 years from A. D.1418 to 1468. In this stage cotton fabrics were mainly produced in the southern parts of the country which are Kyungasng-Do, Choongcheng-Do and Jeunla-Do. And cotton fabrics were used not only by the common people but also by the royal family. The third stage, that is the last one was an extensive period and lasted from A.D.1469 to 1592. In this stage as the demand for cotton fabrics greatly increased the production from southern parts of the country fell in short of the supply needed. Therefore the production was extended to the northwestern parts. In addition cotton fabrics finally came to be used as money to value the goods.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.19-32
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• 2014

The sewing machine was the most widely-advertised item in mid-Victorian English periodicals. However, no historians have so far analyzed how English advertisers created the link between the domestic sewing machine and middle-class women, or what impact they may have had on gender relations. This paper treats sewing machines as a medium to enhance our view of gender and social history, consumer culture as well as material culture studies. Studying the advertisements of sewing machines reveals the traditional values and modern consumer culture of mid-nineteenth England, and also offers a sense for how advertisers expected people to react. Sewing machines could not only offer women aspiration and authority, but could also function as a timesaver through which a woman could attain a truly modern lifestyle. Buying a sewing machine for their wives symbolized their status as a breadwinner and a caring husband, as well as serving as an appreciation of their wives' domesticity. Sewing machines also provoked anxiety for both sexes because some believed that women would lose their morality and gender identity, whereas others believed that if relieved of domestic drudgery women would have time to educate themselves, which threatened to men and the gender hierarchy.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.5
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• pp.35-50
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• 2008

People in the Ancient Society of Korea liked golden earrings. The Royal Family or the nobility wanted to make more splendorous golden earrings in order to display their high-ranking positions. However, appearances or production methods of golden earrings differ a little by countries, for example, Goguryeo, Silla, Baekje, Gaya, etc. Therefore, by closely examining articles discovered from tombs, we can know which country they were from. In particular, earrings of Goguryeo and Silla are similar to each other while those of Baekje and Gaya are similar. This would be closely related with political relationships between the two countries. The shape of golden earrings in the middle of the $5^{th}$ century A.D. is relatively simple. However, since the latter half of the $5^{th}$ century, golden earrings in the Ancient Society of Korea changed in the direction of long length or significantly splendorous surface decoration. Accordingly, we can estimate the period of production by analyzing golden earrings discovered from a tomb. In addition, the above trend was common all the earrings in the Ancient Society of Korea, which implies that each nation closely exchanged reciprocally at that time.

• Human Ecology Research
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• v.56 no.2
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• pp.195-203
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• 2018

Online game digital hanbok has an aesthetic value in a digital culture and is useful for developing a digital hanbok design for online games as well as other industries. This thesis analyzes its attire and design composition elements to design a 3D digital hanbok by utilizing its formative characteristics. The literature review defines them as transmutability, virtuality, fictionality, reality and playfulness based on the characteristics of digital media, late digital generation and online games. We analyzed 471 images from 50 online games. Sonmaep was used for making 3D digital hanboks. Its attire was grouped into jogori pants, jogori chima, po and armor. Its design composition elements were classified as pleat, layering mu or hemline, mu sub gyeopmagi mitbadae, vent, git dongjung and decoration elements. The results feature 8 digital hanbok designs. Reality designs are replicas of jogori daegugo for men and po for women in the period of the Three States. Virtuality designs are slightly changed shapes of yoseoncheolrik for men and white jogori yellow chima for women in the Koryo Dynasty. Fictionality designs are casual fusion armors for men and women as a hyperbolic form. Playfulness designs are doll costumes for men and jogori chima for women as a kitsch and childish style. The concept of online game digital hanbok escapes from conceptual limitations of traditional hanboks. This result can be used for designing digital hanbok contents in various industrial parts.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.5
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• pp.141-152
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• 1981

Various ceremonial flags were of great importance to the rulers who wished to have the absolute authorities for governing the people. Perhaps nothing indicated the ideas, thoughts and symbols of a certain period and people than the ceremonial flags. The ceremonial flags used in the old China and Korea took the shapes of the heaven and the earth, representing the social backgrounds and thoughts. This study was limited only to the discussion of the heaven-shaped patterns of the ceremonial flags. The 28 constellations of the heaven, in the Oriental way of thinking, were considered to express the immortal powers of Providence and the political domination of the earth. Hence the Polaris, the center of the heaven, symbolized the whole family of king, prince, child born of a concubine and royal harem. Among the constellation pictures were those of Han period, wall painting of old tombs in Koguryeo kingdom and old Japanese kingdom. Referring to the Emperor's ceremonial flags in Daemyeongjibyei, symbolic meanings changed historically and the complete systems of the ceremonial flags were established in Song period when the divine person was drawn on the flags. Animals concerned properly with the particular star and the shapes of the star were both drawn on the flags in Won period and only the shapes of the particular star in Myeong period. In the Imperial enthronement of Kojong the ceremonial flags might be made by the examples of those of Myeong period and remains are now found at Changdeok Palace, which need a further study because the references in detail are not available.