• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제16권1호
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• pp.43-54
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• 2014

In textile industry, needs for various weave drafts have been increased to produce high qualified textile goods. One of disadvantages of traditional textile industry was spending time and money on manual sampling. Nowadays, however, weave draft design and sampling using CAD programs reduce these consumption efficiently. Therefore, this study aimed to provide high qualified woven fabrics by weave draft designs influenced by geometric patterns. First, We analyzed geometric patterns, except for dot, stripe, and checks, in fashion collections from 2009 to 2014 S/S. Then, based on these analyses, design concepts were decided. Third, weave drafts influenced by geometric patterns were designed with weave CAD program, TEX PRO 10.0 by Youngwoo CNI inc. Forth, We simulated fabrics woven by new drafts using CAD programs, depending on fibers, yarns, density of woven, colors, and finishes. Unclassified geometric patterns would be expressed by small size patterns that influenced by retro moods, square patterns with various color variation, zigzag lines, and pieces of puzzles. Three design concepts were decided as greenness, neoclassic, and romantic chic. Thus, geometric patterns for printing were created as drafts for general looms, and one repeat of each draft were provided. According to the design concepts, we designed 13 fabrics with 4 geometric patterns weaving drafts. All Drafts were designed with CAD programs. Finally, same drafts were simulated as woven fabrics for both S/S and F/W seasons by changing each element, such as fiber, yarns, density, colors, and finishes.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제32권1호
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• pp.108-123
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• 2024

This study aimed to explore sustainable fashion design plans and directions by analyzing Marine Serre's collection. Previous research was reviewed to derive classifications of the aesthetic characteristics of sustainable fashion design. This classification was then used to analyze the characteristics of the Marine Serre collection. Design analysis was conducted on Marine Serre's 2018 FW to 2023 SS collections. Marine Serre's sustainability characteristics are functionality, surprise, handicraft, and inclusion. The results are as follows. First, functionality is the highest among the four characteristics and includes the functionality of movement, the functionality of form, and futurism. This characteristic was observed in the use of all-in-one body suits, pockets, and workwear, showing the will and values of designers who value daily activity. Second, surprise includes the scarcity of materials and the unexpectedness of composition. The value of the clothing is enhanced by the use of scarce materials not typically used in clothing. In addition, Marine Serre is highly regarded for expanding clothing into life by incorporating material upcycling into the theme of the collection. Third, handcrafted features include exaggerated decorations, logo, retro designs, and natural properties, and intentional utilization is differentiated. Marine Serre's signature pattern suggests a suitable expression for the fabric to use the crescent moon for the season. Fourth, the collection expresses themes of inclusivity and cultural diversity. The results indicate that Marine Serre wants to contribute to a better future characterized by global coexistence.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제15권5호
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• pp.825-837
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• 2007

To analyze the design of Christian Dior, 216 pieces of Dior's works were collected and studied from the COLLECTION(Seoul: Dong Ah TV) from 2003 to 2005. The result is as follows. In recent three year period, Christian Dior maintained the feminine image and implemented different additions such as sexy, ethnic, avant-garde and casual image in every season. Also, to reflect a new trend or fashion sense, images of ethnic, retro, hippie or vintage were applied. In using color, different main color(YR, R, Y, BG, RP, B) were chosen every season to pursue variations. For the pattern usage, feminine beauty was presented by numerous applications of flowered pattern. Also the practice of pattern and hue in different rations in every season pursued variations in design.

• 복식
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• 제51권5호
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• pp.113-134
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• 2001

This study was carried out with an objective to prepare the framework of conformity for the 21st century modern fashion, which is interactive with mankind, based on a position that the 21st century contemporary fashion with its amalgamating trend of diversified artistic forms may not be elucidated on a standpoint centering on one certain modality. The hybrid fashion trend of historical modality which provides freedom and satisfaction in creation of an individuals expressive power in expressing true desire of mans inside through man-centered thought of the times has made multifarious motives of the past and present fragmentary. It thus extracts inner divisions and the concept of consolidation through three-dimensional form. Modern fashion is newly interpreted by the material and details of high technologies. and is harmonized by mix and match with various expressions. By having it, it is being expressed together with many types of dresses and ornaments. Modern fashion is being expressed together with many types of dresses and ornaments by new interpretations with the material and details of high technologies and by being harmonized with mix and match with various expressions. The hybrid fashion design trend of regional elements formed by stimuli and contacts of diverse local culture by globalization of network that was achieved by scientific technologies of the contemporary information society has disintegrated varied boundaries in the conventional culture by the latest communication technology-new media on the basis of newly created culture. The fact that regional elements could be expressed as if they were interrelated without each being deprived of originality may be explained with an interpretation on pluralism. The hybrid fashion design trend of cultural aspect, which manifests in the background of scientific technological culture as it transcends the societal-cultural boundaries based on the de-centralization theory of Frederic Jameson, has supplemented the imperfect meanings through conversional correlation with other forms and internal program changes. The middle stratal and polyhedral characteristics are seen as each cultural element is dismantled and reassembled by application of 'multiple-time point expression'. Design forming method is not to bring destruction from outside, but to embrace instability and chaos through radical dismantling of the inside. and to pursue diversity and openness. Thus. it is implemented by an approach that takes the role of design process. In communication of discontinuity, continuity was dismantled through forms of mixing, overlap, perversion, insertion and coincidence.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제17권5호
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• pp.781-792
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• 2015

This study aims to develop a spring/fall motorcycle jacket for quick service transporter. Depending on the results of the previous research, this study produced the tested jacket which was improved in material, pattern, and design. For the tested jacket, 100% polyester fabric excellent in strength, durability and abrasion-resistance was selected as a major material, and Cordura was used as a partial material to improve the strength and abrasion-resistance of the sleeve side lines, elbow and shoulder areas. The retro-reflection material was applied partially in order to improve visibility of the jacket in the night or in a dark place. A total of 7 pockets were composed in the jacket for the sufficient storage spaces. The functional design elements such as the 2-way zipper and the placket at the center front, the action pleats at the upper part of back armholes, the pit-zip at armpit were applied. In addition, the sleeve pattern was bent with the shape of elbow curvature in time of driving and the back length of the jacket was lengthened 4cm. As a result of the appearance assessment, there was a significant difference from the existing jacket in all items but chest size, shoulder width, cuffs circumference, and jacket hemline circumference. In motion adaptability and field activity appropriateness assessments, the assessment grade for all items was found to be commonly higher than that of the existing jacket, and thus, the tested jacket was assessed to be suitable for a motorcycle jacket design for the quick service transporters.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제13권2호
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• pp.78-86
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• 2009

When scouring and contraction finishing at $90^{\circ}C$ using Relaxer or Rotary Washer contraction and weight loss ratio in warp and weft directions were excellent. Also surface state of fabric after drying or sanding treatment was excellent without crease. Low melting polyester fabric showed a complete melting bond by heat setting(P/S) at above $160^{\circ}C$. The alkali hydrolysis reaction of polyester showed the breakpoint in the weight loss behavior test, polyester yarn showed a breakpoint ranging from 25% to 28%. This is due to the difference of the hydrolysis rate between regular polyester and soluble polyester. Initially the soluble polyester was eluted and micro-fibrillized 5 times faster than a regular polyester. At a later time, a regular polyester was reduced weight to impart a proper flexibility and drape property to the fabric. As a result of surface sanding finishing, the surface of interior fabric showed a surface state most stabilized when using Mesh No. 220 in mono 0.2d after elution finishing. When the rotation direction of sanding roller was pro-, pro-, pro-, and retro-direction, a directional effect of tuft was not shown, a writing effect as suede was exhibited and a surface state was even. Sublimation fastness was 3-4 class for polyester and 2-4 class for nylon. Light fastness 3-4 class after lapse of 100 hours and 2-4 class after lapse of 160 hours. Abrasion fastness was 3-4 class on wet and 4-5 class on dry Laundry fastness was 2-4 class. As such, the abrasion fastness is slightly reduced upon wetting and the use thereof for interior is excellent, whereas laundry fastness is slightly lowered.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제16권3호
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• pp.475-487
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• 2008

The purposes of this study are to find the values of playful design by exploring what forms of playful expressions and characteristics appear in the haute couture collections that feature "high culture" other than street fashion or popular fashion and to help expand the scope to include newer and more creative design ideas. Concerning theoretical background, the study reviewed the literature to understand the concept of playfulness and see what types of playfulness there are and how it is expressed. Based on the results, the study examined the features of playfulness by analyzing the works of haute couture collections which since 2000. The results can be summarized as follows: First, designers in the haute couture collections constructed their own identities by expressing their instinctive desire for playfulness through graffiti such as cartoons or scribbles and delivering direct and specific messages or ambiguous and symbolic meanings through such things. Second, the haute couture collections revealed the human body in a transformed or distorted shape through deformation of clothes or accessories presented brand-new dressing styles by breaking away from the past ways of dressing; and expressed playfulness intentionally with distorted materials. Third, is the "depaysement" technique. This collage technique selects all possible objects going beyond inartistic routine matters or boundaries of which we are aware and changes their positions and purposes of use to express the playfulness of "harmony in disharmony." Fourth, the haute couture collections created a feeling of playfulness by featuring parodies of retro elements, a slice of popular culture, or a variety of painting styles. Finally, like using dolls or toys as accessories or making direct use of parts of clothes, combinations between attributes given by the images of those accessories themselves and creativities found in haute couture dresses are just as fun of authoritarian bias in favor of prestigiousness.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제15권5호
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• pp.69-86
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• 2011

The objective of this research is to unveil the dynamic changes of the trends in wedding dresses during the 20th Century. The studies were carried out in two forms; firstly by observing the actual wedding dresses worn by people at that time, and secondly by conducting formative comparisons between those dresses with the ones appeared in movies corresponding to that period. Movies provide an invaluable insight into the era's wedding dresses fashion trends since they function as intimate bridges in connection with the time's audience, and the visible imageries accurately reflect the characteristics embedded within that time frame. As there are no precedent studies regarding this topic, this thesis can serve as vital research data for the wedding dress industry. Research data regarding the actual wedding dresses were collected from books and museum web sites. The object of movies were films produced before World War II that contained both the background settings of the 20th Century and wedding dresses, of which photographic imageries were captured. Research analysis was then conducted by merging these data with findings from relevant books and internet materials. The results of the thesis are as the following: The 1900s was an extension of the 19th Century's popular fashion trend which can be characterized as the S curve silhouettes of the Edwardian period when long trains and long veils symbolized wealth and social power. In the 1910s, high waist silhouettes with soft wrinkles were prevalent as attire suitable for active mobility with practical functionality were highly regarded. During the 1920s, the flapper style became the dominant trend. Hem lines of the skirts were curled in the form of the scallop and laces were the most widely used raw materials. By the 1930s, wedding dresses that reinterpreted the glamorous sheath lines, practical two piece styles, and retro-styles became predominant. The 1940s saw the advent of ready-made wedding dresses made of synthesized materials; practical military style suits and casuals sometimes substituted the wedding dresses. And although the wedding dresses in the movies were primarily costumes to express the personalities of the characters, they were also reinterpreted as manifestations of the formative characteristics of each relative period that pursued very distinct and diverse features.

• 자연과학논문집
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• 제10권1호
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• pp.209-216
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• 1998

21세기의 소비자 시장은 첫째, 패션 데모크라시의 현상으로 소비자들은 무조건적인 유행추종으로 이탈하는 삶들의 수가 많아지면서 자연의 주체적인 판단에 의해서 스스로의 패션을 선택, 창조해 가려는 현상을 보이고 있다. 둘째, 토탈 패션의 추구현상으로, 앞으로의 소비자들은 단품상품을 차별화하는데 목표를 두기보다는 자신의 개성과 가치관에 기초한 다양한 패션요소를 고려하는 경향으로 가고 있다. 셋째, 월드퀄리티 지향으로, 생활수준의 향상과 함께 소비자의 패션의식을 소재, 품질, 디자인, 브랜드 이미지와 같은 요소들의 세계적 통용성을 강조하는 데로 이행해 가고 있다. 넷째, 신 합리주의의 등장으로, 소비자들은 패션의 고급화를 추구시킨 상품전략에 있어서 현명함, 진실함을 강조하고 합리적인 가격대를 요구하는 경향이 늘어나고 있는 추세이다. 다섯째, 컨셉트 지향으로, 소비자 을은 각자 개인의 생활 장면(Life Scene)에 적합한 컨셉트 지향을 추구하는 현상으로 변하고 있다. 변화된 패션시장에 대응하기 위한 새로운 마케팅전략을 제시하면 다음과 같다. 첫째, Borderless가 점차 진행되면서 어패럴이 고객 개인에게 Custom made 상품을 제공하는 등 업체의 경계가 희미해지고 있다. 둘째, 비즈니스를 표준화 시스템화하여 집중관리 방식을 취하는 기업이 증가하면 할수록 그 niche시장을 겨냥하는 게릴라가 등장하는 고랄라와 게릴라의 2극화가 진행된다. 기본적으로는 개인의 창의 연구를 중요시하고 고감도로 현장밀착을 지향하고 있다. 그러나 이 2극화도 완전 분리하는 것이 아니라 고릴라가 게릴라적 움직임을 보이고 게릴라가 고릴라적 하이테크를 사용하는 등의 서로 보완적인 관계가 되는 현상이다. 셋째, Value retailing의 성장으로, 메스 머천다이징을 지향하는 기업이나 카테고리고리 킬러라고 칭해지는 기업 군이 점점 새로운 상품영역으로 확대되어 대형화 되어서 비즈니스의 share를 확대하고 있다. 넷째, 아웃소싱의 활용으로, 자사의 회사에 있는 기능, 지금까지 자가만이 해온 것을 모두 검토하여 <이것만은 우리가 강하다>고 하는 것만 남기고 다른 것은 외부의 기능을 이용하는 동향이 해마다 강해지고 있다. 다섯째, 무점포 판매의 확대로, 카탈로그 등의 통신판매에 더하여 인터넷의 등장, CD-ROM판매도 구체화되었다. 어느 유력한 미국의 Thinktank는 <2010년에 의류품과 홈제품의 전 매출액의 5.5%가 None.store가 될 것이다.>라고 예측하고 있다. 이상과 같은 문제를 극복하기 위해서는, 첫째, International, Global차원의 마케팅과, 둘째, Technology의 향상, 셋째, 지식 창조형의 마케팅이 요구된다.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제14권1호
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• pp.100-108
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• 2012

Traffic police officers are faced with many dangerous accidents due to outside duties on roads. Yet, researches on traffic officers' uniforms have mainly been focused on design aspects rather than functional aspects. This study therefore aims to figure out traffic officers' perceived needs for their uniforms and to offer some basic guidelines in manufacturing versatile safety vests for wearers. The study used a documentary survey replied by 236 traffic officers. The results of the study are as follows: 1. There are 10 different types of vests currently used by traffic officers. Vests are employed for purposes such as carrying police equipments, enabling officers to be noticeable in dark, protecting the body, etc. 2. Officers wear these vests which were officially designated by law. Among them, fluorescence versatile safety vests were most frequently worn by officers. 3. Officers who wore ready-made vests of which size was already determined, tended to perceive that the vests were relatively larger than their own size. 4. In terms of the functions of the vests, officers expressed needs for the improvement of the LED and retro-reflection tape along with the addition of thermal function to existing vests. The improvement of the form and functions of versatile safety vests which reflect needs of the users will boost the dignity and the sense of duty of the traffic police officers.