• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.4 no.3
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• pp.427-445
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• 1996

According as the fashion at the latter half part of the 20th century is diversified and made into high-class gradually, it is demanding the individuality of each one. Especially, since the beginning of 1980s, fashion came to represent the restoration mood in a modern style because of the popularization of post-modernism. And with this, it came to result in the reappearance of minimalism which was one of anti-culture in 1960s. In this study, this researcher grasped the appearance background, concept and structural concept of minimalism, and tried to study the influence that he minimalism had on fashion in the flow of fashion over the first half period of the 20th century. Minimalism is the fine art trend of American characteristic which quicked by the meeting of European culture and American culture, according as the new avant-grade art of Europe moved to America after World War II Minimalism which appeared, refusing the mechanisation, industrialization and mass production of America and the falsehood of consciousness and sensitivity under existing system remained obscure by the pop art which is the commercial fine art of same period, but it came to expand the domain of work possibility of modern fine art, and it became the basis of appearance of post-modernism. Minimalism has 4 kinds of structural features which are nonside nature, repetitiousness and environment nature with 3 dimensional feature which is issue nature. Minimalism is appearing in the exfcellent and future-oriented fashon of Andre Kureju t the time of 1960 well. Then science revolution and minimalism aroused the mini-revolution, and they made the compact radio in electric home appliances and the miniskirt in fashion appear. The features of minimal fashion as Retro '60' which appeared in the decedent mood with the 21st century just before on are as follows: First, the are the pursuit of concise plastic line. Second, it is the use of high tech material Third, the miniaturization in size amy be enumerated. Minimal fashion will appear s the positive confrontation from of mankind as the optimistic viewpoint about feature in the situation hat environment was destroyed and the resources were exhausted.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.12 no.2
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• pp.100-116
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• 2008

This study aims to analyze the characteristics of deconstruction-ism expressed in the fashion of Alexander McQueen. The method and contents of this study are as follows. The three large categories for analysis are indeterminacy, decentralization, and intertextuality. The indeterminacy of meaning is divided into unstructured and unorganized factors in fashion, while decentralization can be categorized into cross-gender, subculture, and post-humanism. Lastly, inter-textuality is classified into factors of mixing mode and mixed styles. Materials for analysis were chosen from a total of 616 designs from the website, www.firstview.com, which carries McQueen's collection from 2000 S/S through 2007 F/W. My analysis qualitatively evaluates the frequency of each category and the characteristics of design. The result of this study is as followed. First, the avant-garde facets of inter-textuality are most prominent. In particular, McQueen has introduced retro fashion and ethnic factors of the third world, not to copy them but to create hybrid designs by using pastiches and mixing fashion styles. Moreover, he has enjoyed using two fabrics of different texture in order to inflict a shock and contrast, thus enriching his fashion. Second, the indeterminacy of meaning is the second most frequently shown facet of McQueen's fashion design. McQueen has employed unstructured expression techniques, which dismantle harmony and balance, the basic rule of design, and has presented unorganized images free from basic forms of design. He has made a new attempt to acknowledge clothing as an expressive artwork by allowing clothes to take a complete form when a person actually wears them. Third, the aspects of decentralization were also shown in McQueen's design. His trans-gender clothing dissolves the traditional division of men and women and adopts a mixed gender expression. Furthermore, he has even tried to express a fourth gender by connecting the human with machine or animal or by connecting the material with the non-material.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.23 no.6
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• pp.726-743
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• 2021

This study tried to examine the fashion design and style of representative K-Pop boy groups BTS and SEVENTEEN appearing on music shows. The data collection was conducted on 4 music programs(Inkigayo, Music Bank, Show! Music Core, M COUNTDOWN) and YouTube(www.youtube.com) for each boy who worked for 5 years from January 2016 to December 2020. Result analysis utilized the stage scenes and music videos of the title songs of BTS and Seventeen. As for the fashion design and style characteristics of BTS, it was found that overall, the color, pattern, and decoration of the bottom were minimized, and the style was changed mainly by the top of the denim pants. As for Seventeen's fashion design and style characteristics, it was analyzed that plain simple slacks, bright and modest chromatic colors, and geometric and stylistic patterns with street retro sensibility were relatively emphasized, and natural and romantic images appeared a lot. As a result of examining the differences in fashion design and style characteristics between BTS and Seventeen, significant differences were found in color, tone, color scheme, material type, material combination, detail, trimming, pattern, accessories, and fashion image. Overall, it was found that both groups minimized the use of decorative elements such as patterns, details, and trimmings.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.40
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• pp.121-135
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• 1998

The purpose of this thesis is to study the social and cultural background and characteristic of neo-classicism which appered in the modern fashion of the pluralistic society of the latter half of 20th century to understand that the product of societh such as fashion mode reflects the situation of society and culture. For this purpose, documentary studies about the concept and background of neo-classicism, were preceded, and analyzed the occurrence background and characteristic of neo-classicism of the modern fashion after the 1980's, which showed up in post-modernism fashion. The characteristics of neo-classicism expressed in modern fashion is as follows; First, they are expressed in modern fashion in forms of simplicity by means of minimizing process of sewing or ornamenting and deletion of dart. Second, retro-style in terms of concerning of the past, is featured in various styles of Greco-roman drapery and expresed in forms of mixing clothing elements of modern and classic in modern times. Third, the trend of ecology in terms of interest of the nature and the thought that the spiritual world is more important than the material world. It is expressed by using natural elements adn natural materials, which wanted to get the nature and human into one and search for the losed nature of modern men. Fourth, the pursuit of the beauty of the human body, is expressed in forms of body-prioity style through using see-through or elastic materials, which is knit, lycra, spandex, etc. In conclusion, we can recognize that the social product reflects social and cultural situation. And the characteristic of neo-classicism has the meaning of harmonizing the human and nature and the returing the humanity.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.22 no.2
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• pp.71-85
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• 2020

The purpose of this study was to study the beauty-coordination characteristics of Genderless fashion, which is emerging as a new trend by analyzing the trend in the latest collection and classify the resulting expression characteristics of make-up. Methods and scope of the study were based on collections published in the 2020 S/S season and 35 out of 84 designers with design elements were selected to analyze the garments most likely to be genderless. The characteristics of the expression of the genderless derived through this analysis were classified into compromise, androgyny, sensuality, exaggeration, enjoyment, and historicity. Compromise was the highest, and the lowest was for enjoyment of the classifications. The designer's work according to the characteristics of each expression shows that the pieces by Saint Laurent were the highest in compromise, sensuality, and historicity, and the pieces by Maison Margiela were the highest in androgyny while Balenciaga was the highest in exaggeration and enjoyment. Compromise represented a mixture of discord, such as incongruous bonding and coloring of heterogeneous materials, and androgyny led to the use of silhouettes and colors, with sensuality utilizing see-through material and incision lines allowing for physical exposure. Exaggeration intentionally destroyed the existing concept by breaking the overall balance of the human body through the enlargement of certain parts of the body, while enjoyment showed unexpectedness by destroying the line and sides of the garment. Lastly, historicity was analyzed for its retro design that transcends time and space with regional cultural and period characteristics.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.6 no.5
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• pp.59-71
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was 1) to analyze the consumers' preference on the recent trend in men's wear according to their lifestyle and 2) to suggest a suitable direction for men's wear planning based on the lifestyle analysis. A survey was applied to obtain the data set responded from 310 male subjects who were aged between thirties and fourties. The main results of this study are summarized as follows: 1) Five types of recent fashion trends were identified through a qualitative analysis on the recent men's wear trend, which were 'Modern classic casual', 'Retro traditional casual', 'Authentic/Ethnic casual', 'Urban dandy street casual' and the 'Refined sportive casual'. 2) The three types of the respondents' lifestyle were identified in this research and named as 'pursuing sense', 'pursuing tradition' and 'conservative indifference'. Examining the preference on fashion trends according to subjects' lifestyle and etc., the preference level of the 'pursuing sense' group on trend was, in general, higher than that of the two other lifestyle groups. The most preferred trend style of 'pursuing sense' group was the 'Modern Classic'. Finally, a suitable direction for men's wear planning was suggested on the result of analysis in this research.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.4 no.4
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• pp.1-16
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• 2000

The purpose of this study is to investigate the formative beauty, changes in fashion and aesthetical sense that can be seen in the bias drapings of Madeleine Vionnet and her influences on modern fashion since she used draping as a new fashion means to represent the new feminine images which modernism of the early 20th century and social changes from the two great World War's generated, and to provide proper data to encourage designers' creativity that is wanting in the circle of Korea fashion. Bias draping led women to respect worship their body from the heart with seductive modernism enriching the material's texture to the utmost through geometrical patterns of triangle, quartered plane and quardrants and simple cylindrical cuts and with an attribute adapting itself to the wearer's body. Bias draped wear consisted of light and transparent materials and overall surface decoration revealed women's movements and sought the extension of environmental movements and demonstrated its eroticism. On the other hand, biased daywear gained anonymity through cutting true to body line and psychological protective quality as of cape, and this went well with the independent femininity accepting difference as well as pursuing revolution from the inside. The great inflation and the 2nd World War gave birth to escape from reality like surrealistic artistic tendencies and Hollywood films and increased romanticism. Bias draping once underwent unpopularity except in expensive clothes due to knit wear boom and the utilization of new elastic materials, however, it began to receive lights again from pluralization waves and retro tendencies and to be introduced in many designers' collections. A young genius of England, John Galliano improved functions of Haute Couture through creation of new styles and fantastic shows to promote profits in the fashion markets. Bias draping fitted in human body line provides us comfort and aesthetic qualities through careful choice of material and elegance by delicate cutting.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.27 no.3
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• pp.35-49
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• 2023

The purpose is to derive its aesthetic characteristics by objectifying the visual image of the YouTube campaign into adjectives. As a result, we intend to identify advertising strategies that use them as basic data for setting fashion design concepts. A group of experts in fashion majors watched each of them, wrote adjectives, and collected 75 adjectives. By analyzing the frequency of adjectives, aesthetic characteristics were derived with adjectives recording the upper number of times, and the results were obtained that they had the characteristics of deconstruction. The conclusions of this study are as follows. First, Tamburin's Jenny appeared to be strange, scary, rambling and charming. Among the internal meanings of deconstruction due to spatial, social, and psychological distance from consumers, it can be said that T.P.O's mutual textuality and play of interaction. Second, Gucci Cruise be chosen rural, strange, wild, unharmonious, and difficult, which is a mixture of intertextuality and play of T.P.O. Third, The Excise Gucci Campaign parodies that juxtaposes six films directed by Stanley Kubrick, making them strange, retro, difficult, interesting, and wrong. Deconstructionist de-genre and de-boundary Fourth, Kenzo World is weird, dynamic, wrong, difficult, difficult, and confused, which correspond to T.P.O's interactive textuality, play of the second half, and destruction and decomposition among the external expressions of deconstruction. Fifth, Burberry Hero emphasized the aesthetic value of traditional men, so it was ostensibly wild, free, powerful, sensual, and fantastic. Compared to the lifestyle of men who usually work at work, this corresponds to play of second best.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.25 no.4
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• pp.13-28
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• 2023

The purpose of this study is to analyze the characteristics of hippie style in emerging brands pursuing the hippie spirit, examine the changes in hippie style, and apply them to the design development process to propose a hippie style design that reflects contemporary characteristics. The research method of this study was used to grasp the characteristics and current status of hippie style based on a literature review and prior research. Through the analysis of Bode and Story mfg, a new brand that reflects the hippie spirit, the design expression methods and characteristics of modern hippie style were derived, and based on the analysis, the design of the 3D CLO virtual outfit was developed. The results of the study are as follows. First, in addition to the use of eco-friendly materials, the digital technology of the CLO 3D program was applied to the design development process, which made it possible to increase sustainability from the production process. Second, by creating a retro design centered on a striped pattern expressing freedom, revolution, and equality, and a handcrafted design based on a tie-dye pattern, the design was able to express the hippie spirit of loving nature, and through this, a new direction of eco-friendly and modern fashion design was presented.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.41
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• pp.117-138
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• 1998

This study can be divied into three major sections: 1. Background on the 1980s : The 1980s can be characterized as a era of rising expectations over the quality of life. Interest in art, history, culture, and new technology increased to appeal to a greater audience. In fashion, these changes led to greater focus on quality and unique stylishness as fashion represented a medium through which luxury and refined tastes could be expressed. 2. Textile Trends of the 80s Divided into 4 Periods : The period of 1980-82 saw the mixture of natural lines with constructive lines. The textiles used in fashions in this period can be characterized by natural materials, mannish materials of the 1950s, feminine materials of the 1920s and 30s, and spoty materials of the 1960s. The period of 1983-85 was an avante garde period which used rustic avante-garde materials and art craft materials. The period of 1986-87 can be described as minimalistic and neo-classical which incorporated materials which represents a metropolitan feel, retro decorative materials and sporty, futuristic mat-erials. Lastly, the period of 1988-89 produced ethnic and natural fashions which relied on traditional British materials, country elegant and innocent look fabrics, ethinic and ecology-minded materials, in addition to comfortable and sports casual materials. 3. Characteristrics and methods of expression for textiles in the 1980s, : In the 1980s, the development of textiles have can be divided into 4 distinct patterns: decorative materials, sporty materials. In generals textiles have increased in their decorative nature-especially decoration by texure. Textile have also incorporated the mixture of contrasting themes in order to create new fabrics.