Mannerism style evolved from the Renaissance style adopting the concept of grace as the ideal beauty, Having its ground on Neoplatonism the main goal of mannerism art was the realization of the invisible beauty over reality. Mannerism style in dress flourished in the sixteenth century court society, when courtly manners and courtly grace became the most important qualities in social relationship. Courtiers thought that courtly grace the ideal of beauty could be realized in the cultured and studied elegance. Mannerism style in dress evolved from the process of transforming and manipulating the Renaissance look for the abstract of beauty. The clothes of Mannerism style were against the natural movement of the human body. There was a tendency of refining and polishing the whole clothing and various technical skills were experim-ented on the mannerism style. The outstanding elements of this tendency can be found in the details like ruffs fathingale padding slashing puffing and etc. Mannerism intended to reconstruct the human body artificially to express courtly grace and novelty. During that process the new pose 'figura serpentinata' which is bizarre convoluted pose with full of flexibility was created. The expression of human body became more slender with elongated legs a torso with a long neck and a tiny head. This tendency of distorting the natural body forms were reflected in the formal characteristics of Mannerism dress style which is geometrical abstr-action unnatural elongation complex disposition and control with perfect ease.
'Fantasy', the central notion of this essay, is discussed here more as a new paradigm in order to describe the structure of a work of art than as a stylistic characteristic proper to a specific genre of art. It means the whole situation and experience produced by two connected terms 'corporeal subject - screen'. Roland Barthes explained the 'semiographic painting' by Andre Masson as a field in which happens a certain connexion between the impulse of subject and the image, which views the painting not as a physical object but as a 'cinematic screen' ; painting may be redefined as a dream or a fantasy of the corporeal subject. And such an idea of 'art as fantasy' is closely related to the recent theoretical attempts consisting in abolishing the vision-centered conception of art since Renaissance. In this essay, the notion of fantasy as an aesthetic model is sketched by means of the Freud's notes on the fantasy 'A child is being beaten' and Lyotard's more advanced analyse on its attributes and operations. In Lyotard's analysis, fantasy is defined as a 'bloc' or a 'matrix-figure' featuring simultaneous conversion between the active and the passive, sadism and masochism, and coexistence of imcompossible meanings. In this sense, fantasy may be given to us as an analogical model from which we can outline the aesthetic characteristics of electronic media art involving virtual reality and interactivity.
The inflow of digital technology into the art, especially in the Fashion Illustration since 1990, makes the new aesthetics of the beginning of the 21 century which the Software aesthetics can be called. The meeting of technology and the art make us recall a great scientist and artist, Leonardo da Vinci in the Renaissance that the notion of the art and skill was unified, same as the ancient history. This study is purposed to expand the concept of the art for the broad exchange of the digital technology and art and for the extensive expression method of the modern fashion illustration. Having views on science theory of the beginning of the 20 century, Theory of Relativity which had given a lot of influence in the philosophy, the litterature and the art, as well as all the science, it makes a connection with the history of art in the beginning of the 20 century and the story of the digital art in the beginning of the 21 century. Firstly, the Fauvism and 2D is based on the expression of the glowing and bright color by the Principle of constancy of light velocity. Secondly, the Cubism and 3D is associated with the Special theory of relativity in the cyberspace which the space and the time are totally accorded. Thirdly, the Futurism and 4D is compared with the General theory of relativity which contains the material and the gravity. They are gradually evolved into the Interactive art and the Kinetic art by the digital technology in the profound cyberspace.
The aim of this study is to consider breast imagery in art as depicted through western painting. Twenty western art paintings were collated. Most of the sample paintings were created from the mid-nineteenth century to the late twentieth century and some are from the Renaissance period. Ten anthropometric items were used to measure 15 distances between two landmarks and 3 angles between three points. The distance from the nipple to the sternal notch and to the midclavicular point was the same and they were 0.46 of the distance from the sternal notch to the umbilicus. The shape of the projection of the breast was almost an isosceles triangle and the altitude of the triangle was at a proportion of 0.45 of the bottom length and 0.16 of the distance from the sternal notch to the umbilicus. The distance between the lateral ends of the breasts was 2.14 times the facial width and the distance between nipples was 1.36 times the facial width. Proportions from works of art are more ideal and attractive than clinically measured proportions. The desirable ratios measured from historical paintings might be useful in planning breast surgeries.
The Endless Column by Constantin Brâncuşi is "the most radical sculpture in the history of classic modernism", "the only one of modern times that can be compared with the great Egyptian, Greek and Renaissance monuments". It "is not only an artistic masterpiece, but also an extraordinary feat of engineering", the greatest example of collaboration between a sculptor and an engineer. This article illustrates the path that led the artist to conception of the column, its planning and construction, the investigations on preservation of the monument and its restoration, the aerodynamic tests in the wind tunnel, the modeling of the wind and the structure in virtue of which the aeroelastic instability, dynamic response and fatigue life were investigated. The conclusions discuss the column's role in the panorama of the great works of modern engineering.
Alberti's De re aedificatoria is the earliest case in the history of Italian Renaissance architectural treatises dealing with recovery of antiquity through textual and archaeological pursuits. The key source of the Renaissance theoreticians was Vitruvius' De architectura. However, Alberti was keenly aware of inaccuracy and Hellenization of Latinity in this classical text, and tried to compensate them in his own treatise. Furthermore he claimed a reformed discipline of the architects as well as the patrons, and prescribed how future buildings and cities should be built, based on the proper authority of ancient architecture in proper and intelligible Latin. Such an adaptation of classical usage in order to reestablish a modern norm preceded in his earlier work Momus, a satire on the contemporary Italian society of his own by following the model of Lucian. Alberti's suggestion of proper government in Momus's phrase was expanded in De re aedificatoria, for he consider the buildings are subject to the rules of morality and public interests. He proclaimed that the nature of beauty is the reasoned harmony of every part within a body, and architectural beauty also lies on the harmonized arrangement of all the elements within an individual building and of all individual buildings and facilities within a city. For the architects to execute this task, he formulated the concept of lineanenta, the form derived from the mind in order to prescribe the proper place, numbers, scale, and orders for whole building structure. It is the future oriented city-plans and building designs to serve the public interest and the good of all the individual citizens who make up the City-State that Alberti pursued in his treatise.
The purpose of this paper is to reconsider and revaluate Ste. Genevieve Library designed by Henri Labrouste as a criticism of Classicism. Considered as the epitome of the early structural Rationalism the modern historian tried to focus only on the iron structure of the library. Arguably, the structural concern was one of the ideas that the architect wanted to manifest in the library. As a rebel against a view of the Acad$\acute{e}$mie des Beaux-Art the notions of H. Labrouste were radical. He criticized an autistic Classicism with an echoing Claude Perrault's doubt about the myth of classical beauty. These radical ideas firstly showed in his report of the Grand Prix de Rome and must have been developed through several discussions for a novel: Notre-Dame de Paris by V. Hugo. 'Ceci tuera cela', one of the chapter of the novel, was generally known as the death of architecture due to the invention of the printing press around Renaissance period. We, however, consider that even though the historical background of the novel is the Gothic period the ideas, which was discussed with Labrouste, related to the death of architecture was not the architecture itself but classical architecture recomposed during Renaissance period. As the first design work the library must be reflected his ideas, which were developed, and manifested his criticism of the Classicism indirectly.
We propose and execute an introductory engineering course for investigating the history of technology and the philosophy of technology. Soft engineering, to explore proper technology and appropriate ways of exercising engineering, has been explored. Creative cases for technology are presented following the most creative, successful periods-the ancient greece, the Renaissance and Silicon Valley era. Ancient greek technology has been investigated in terms of "techne" with the origin of technology and/or art, and their equivalences. The Renaissance period has been investigated in terms of "Uomo universale (polymath)" with Firenze geniuses. The successful drives for the Silicon Valley creativeness have been investigated following "entrepreneurship". To overcome the difficult goal to grasp course subject-technology issues, we take a stance as a tourist guide and tourists utilizing offline onsite experiences and online informations. Categorized course materials are surveyed at the beginning of each period and presented following the preferences of the students to maintain the students' interests. Team efforts including group discussions and project executions have been encouraged to seek the aspects of creativeness and/or technology. This paper summarizes the 3-lecture experiences over 2 years for Korean students and/or foreign students conducted at Pusan National University.
Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
/
v.4
no.2
/
pp.163-172
/
2002
There have been many unbalanced attempts to break the rules with Renaissance movement which connects with the past in the current art. And From the latter half of Twenty century to the early half of twenty one century, the common sense of fashion is turned over by(unthinkable fashion). To analyze current apparence of fashion, this research make a comparison of fashion condition between the sixteenth century and twenty century fashion, Three analysis methods is introduced. First of all, this paper make research of original language of mannerism and unthinkable apparence. Second, appearances of mannerism fashion and unthinkable fashion which are taken from reference books and pictures. Third, Gathering methods which express own style between two periods in the end part of research. As a result, Although Mannerism isn't practical for the visual and new pleasure, and neglect humanism of Renaissance, It is a tendency which is willing to change the flow of prevailing mode, and to reflect asking of people each periods. Mannerism and unthinkable fashion is apparence of society to refresh own feeling. And then, Mannerism and unthinkable fashion is a new challenge to escape from fixed thought.
The purpose of this study is to examine the value of grotesque fashion and to predict the future fashion trend. The grotesque originates the formative art. It emerges towards of a century or transitional period in most case. In particular, it was used as the expressive method of an individual's inside and a satire on society through the work of artists in the Middle Age, the renaissance, the sym-bolism, the dadaism, the surrealism, the pop art, the technology art, and the post-modernism, etc. The grotesque in fashion is represented in the work of avant-garde fashion designers who lead the high fashion. The grotesque fashion which was combined with an image of non-formality, non-rationality, an absurdity and reality. It has been begun shape of female dress in the renaissance. Afterwards, it was represented in extremely exaggerated and distorted pop art, hippies' fashion in the 1960's. In the 1970's, it was reflected in genderless rock star and destructive punk fashion. It was also represented in the androgynous fashion which was combined with both sexes, the goth/gothic fashion which was expressed with a realistic and fanciful shape and the tattoo of skin-head in the 1980's. In the 1990's, the grungy look which was dirty and the cyber punk fashion. In general, it was also expressed by the avant-garde fashion designers. To sum up, a grotesque fashion which is expressed by experimental designers is classified into four shapes. 1, Union of some extraneous is expressed as different kinds of fashion theme, such as abnormality of texture, uses of surrealistic elements and chaos of sex. Although it appears that the abnormal union of grotesque has only discord and collision, it also shows a feeling of freedom for the tension. 2. Introduction of real and fanciful image is expressed as a cyborg, realistic description of disgusting animal skin and aggressive shape. Especially, it is worth while to notice Tierre Mugler and Alexander Macqueen's work which expressed the shape of mingling human of Middle Age. 3. distortion or exaggeration is expressed as an unformed shape, the exaggeration of a clothing size, the abnormal exaggeration of human body and the ignorance of clothing form. 4. Introduction of a disgusting image is expressed as an extremity of reality, motifs of death, clothing material of disgusting hair and the ostentation of sex. Motto which leads modern fashion is something new and shocking. The grotesque fashion is an expression of eagerness for something new. It often show something ironic in the form of humor which is embedded in an abnormal and shocking pattern. The grotesque fashion is represented as an extreme beauty. It will stand as an important element of the future fashion and as a particular style with the change and fluidity.
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