• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.64 no.5
• /
• pp.154-167
• /
• 2014

This study explored culture adaptive attitudes and donning practices of traditional dress among Chinese marriage immigrant women. Quantitative research was conducted on Korea-Chinese multicultural families. Participants were 291 married women in Seoul and Gyeonggi Province. The data was analyzed using frequency analysis, factor analysis, t-test and correlation analysis. The findings are as follows: First, positive relationship was found between Hanbok acceptance attitudes and Qipao transmission attitudes. The level of Qipao transmission attitudes was higher than Hanbok acceptance attitudes especially in the part of knowledge. Han Chinese showed stronger Qipao transmission attitudes than Korean Chinese. Immigrants without Korean nationality had stronger Qipao transmission attitudes. Higher education group and higher income group showed higher level both on Hanbok acceptance attitudes and Qipao transmission attitudes. Second, more than 50% of Chinese marriage immigrant women wore Hanbok once or twice per a year. On the other hand, only 24% of them wore Qipao. This result shows that there exists a gap in the Qipao transmission attitudes and donning practices. 44% of women wore both Hanbok and Qipao in their own wedding ceremony, 32% wore only Hanbok, and 19% wore only Qipao. 64% of women had an experience of wearing Hanbok on special days such as traditional holidays or family affairs, whereas only 29% had worn Qipao.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.19 no.2
• /
• pp.296-308
• /
• 2011

The purpose of this study is to understand Qipao, that Chinese traditional women's cloth, and analysis the aesthetic characteristics of that. Joining WTO in 2002 and 2008 Beijing Olympic made China get the attention by the world and get the opportunity that advent of China style. Chinese fashion cultural contents have abundant meanings in internal or external, therefore characteristics aesthetic of Chinese traditional fashion had much influence in world fashion design. Qipao that has influence in contemporary fashion design could be used special fashion design data for China market. A variety of literature and prior researches for Qipao's history and transition process was studied. Internal and external documents, fashion magazines, internet information were investigated to study features of Qipao. Total 20 seasons fashion collections from 2000S/S to 2009F/W was examined, and selected 22 brands that showed Qipao style, after then extracted 418 photos among them. By the seasons, Eit showed 193 pieces in S/S and 225 pieces in F/W, and was put to practical use in F/W season than S/S. The results are as follows. The contemporary fashion collections shown in the Qipao style silhouette, detail, color, material, pattern and the results obtained by each, were in all respects diversity. In silhouette, including traditional tight silhouettes, 'H' silhouettes, boxy silhouette was such a variety. The five colors traditionally preferred color from the color was more of a tendency to be gorgeous. Modern reinterpretation of pattern designs by graphic pattern that has emerged. Also, shown in a contemporary fashion collection Qipao style leather material in application utilizing the glossy feel of a plastic material and has emerged feeling.

• The Journal of the Korea Contents Association
• /
• v.21 no.5
• /
• pp.905-917
• /
• 2021

Qipao is a national costume of China and a representative Chinese symbol with unique cultural meanings. This study first outlines the concept and development history of Qipao, sorts out existing literature, and summarizes the five elements of Qipao through previous study. Then, based on the theory of cultural levels and design characteristics, focusing on the design characteristics of the three levels of the outer level, middle level and inner level of culture, it analyzes the specific meaning of the five elements of Qipao. Through research, it was found that there are various developmental relationships between the three levels of culture for each element of Qipao. Through the study, it is found that Qipao, as a typical Chinese dress, not only has the research significance of design, but also has rich cultural connotations and diversified information on social, economic, technological, and fashion development. This study can enable us to fully understand the historical and social value and modern significance of the Chinese Qipao, and can provide basic data for fashion design researchers. This study is a basic research for the modernization of traditional Chinese clothing.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.28 no.5
• /
• pp.573-590
• /
• 2020

The purpose of this study was to develop contemporary Qipao design that emphasized creative feminine beauty with a unique sense beyond the concept of traditional Qipao design. This would be achieved using the expressive technique of human liberation from the oppression of the unconscious world a supported by surrealism. Using existing literature and previous research, surrealist expression technique used in fashion were investigated and analyzed. The results are as follows. First, the possibility of new and original design beyond existing surrealistic Qipao design was demonstrated through various realistic surrealism expression techniques, such as dépaysement, objet, and trompe-l'œil techniques. This occurred by exploring various unconscious world out of fixed ideas and through expression techniques of surrealistic fashion such as imagery of body parts, metaphorical expression of objects, and position deformation and illusion. Second, Qipao design that combined objet and attempted ordinary escape by combining isolated body parts (such as hands, eyes, and lips) within the composition combine with surrealistic expression enabled various and fun surrealistic fashion designs to emerge. Third, the metaphor of surreal lips and eyes (mainly used in works of this study) presented a unique and extraordinary combination of images in accessories and partial design that used the dépaysement technique. Thus, it was possible to expand surrealistic expression by including LED wire.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.19 no.1
• /
• pp.62-76
• /
• 2015

The purpose of this study was to analyze and compare the shapes, colors, patterns, and hairstyles of Qipao worn by heroines that were reconstructed over times, in a Chinese TV Drama set in the 1930s and televised in 1980 and remade in 2007. We investigated how the Qipao was reinterpreted. The results were as follows. First, in televised in 1980, Qipao borrowed the characteristics of Jing Pai Qipao, which became popular in Beijing. Jing Pai Qipao was characterized by a roomy and loose silhouette that does not expose a body line, Chinese traditional 5 colors, simple plain patterns and Chinese traditional flower patterns. For hairstyle, twist and permanent wave styles that were popular in the Republican Period were very common. On the other hand, in televised in 2007, Qipao was a Hai Pai style that was very popular in Shanghai in the 1930s. Hai Pai Qipao was characterized by a tight silhouette fitted to the body, various colors such as purple and beige other than the 5 colors, Western flower patterns and modern geometric patterns. Hairstyle was changed from bang hair to a permanent wave. Second, while had a modern reinterpretation of Jing Pai Qipao that was very popular in Beijing, rather than Hai Pai Qipao that became popular in Shanghai in the 1930s, used Hai Pai Qipao that was popular in Shanghai in the 1930s. In particular, demonstrated how the mass media should reinterpret past clothing by thoroughly studying and reflecting Shanghai Qipao in the 1930s and adding viewers' aesthetic taste of 2007 without damaging an original. Moreover, it confirmed that clothing can function as language and symbol within the mass media by connecting the color and pattern of Qipao with characters' traits and the plot. It suggests that was more advanced than filmed in the 1980s. The findings of this study might provide useful data to costume designers who reinterpret costumes from a new angle.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.9 no.3
• /
• pp.150-161
• /
• 2005

The retro fashion and orientalism have been the main trend in the fashion industry tram 2000 as the turning point tram the minimalism. In particular, the far eastern oriental ism, that is, Japanese orientalism had been rapidly spread from 2001. As the trend has been moving to Chinese orientalism from 2003, the fabrics with flower pattern prints and those imbued with Chinese orientalism that were popular in 1960 are the main stream in the textile industry at present. As keeping up with the current trend, this study analyzed the common features and differences between textile patterns with Chinese orientalism that are prevailing ai present and the textile patterns that were popular in 1960s through the film "In the Mood for Love" that told the story of people who immigrated from Shanghai to Hong Kong in 1960s. According to the analysis, the popular textile patterns in 1960s were splendid flower patterns, pop art and op art patterns. Such a trend was elegantly expressed as the textile pattern of Chinese orientalism using qipao in the film "In the Mood for Love".

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.23 no.1
• /
• pp.71-86
• /
• 2021

The purpose of this study was to compare and analyze the Chinese robe styles of the Paris and Beijing collections from 2014 to 2018 to find the differences between the expressions of European and Chinese designers on the Chinese robe style. The methods of research were a literature review to derive the design analysis items of Chinese robe styles, and a case analysis. The results are as follows. First, both the Paris and Beijing collections showed an increase in use of Chinese robe styles year by year. Second, in the Paris collection, designs using qipao styles from the Republic of China era appeared the most among the robe styles of various Chinese dynasties. Qipao style appeared the most in the Beijing collection too, but the robe styles from the era of Pre-Qin, Qin, Han, Song, Ming, and Qing dynasties appeared more often than in the Paris collection. Third, in the comparison of silhouette type, there were mostly X-type silhouettes in the Paris collection and A-type silhouettes in the Beijing collection. As for neckline and sleeve type, both collections showed stand collars and tube sleeves. Fourth, in color comparison, there were mostly red-based colors in the Paris collection and blue-based colors in the Beijing collection. Fifth, in the comparison of pattern type, there were the mostly plant motif patterns in the Paris collection, and complex patterns in the Beijing collection. In conclusion, it was confirmed that the Chinese robe styles of the Paris Collection expressed a design fused with various styles due to the tendency to respect the diversity of various cultures and of the Beijing Collection emphasized the beauty and ethnicity of traditional Chinese clothing.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.18 no.4
• /
• pp.31-46
• /
• 2016

This study would inquire into the fashion image and design characteristics of Peng Liyuan, the first lady of China that has a mighty influence on the recent global economy and consumption. For this purpose, first, this study investigated the fashion image of Peng Liyuan according to the role which she performs as a first lady and analyzed how the fashion image appears and changes by year and role type. Second, this study analyzed the design characteristics of Peng Liyuan's fashion image, focusing on the silhouette, fashion items, coordinated items, colors, and textile patterns. The scope of the research was limited to the dresses worn by Peng Liyuan from March 14, 2013 to September 30, 2015. The fashion image of Peng Liyuan changed from classic and elegant image to modern image till 2015, and she reduced ethnic image and emphasized romantic image. In international diplomatic visits, she tried to express the confidence and potential of China through classic, ethnic and modern image, while in formal events of China, she showed an intention to communicate with the Chinese public with soft intimacy through elegant and ethnic images. As design characteristics in her fashion image, she flexibly changed her fashion image by the composition of silhouettes and items, which could cover her mid-life body type and made use of the form and detail of Chinese traditional qipao, appropriate coordination of scarves and brooches, the combination of chromatic color and achromatic color, appropriate uses of textile patterns and the delivery of China's image according to place and purpose. The study of Peng Liyuan's fashion image has significance to understand the fashion trend as a role model of fashion for the Chinese people and can help the domestic fashion industry that aims at the Chinese market in the future by predicting Chinese women' Fashion trend.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.16 no.4
• /
• pp.661-680
• /
• 2008

The purpose of this study is to examine to change in the Chinese women's clothing according to the inflow of Western culture in the first half of the both century As for the research method, both literature and visual data are reviewed. Research results are as follows: The Step of transition in clothing by period followed beginning stage, adopted stage, early developed stage, fully developed stage, and static stage. fully developed stage showed a perfect compromise while being applied to Chinese costume with being introduced a three-dimensional cutting method of western clothing even to the constitution as well as to the appearance. Design elements from western clothing are as follows. The transition of silhouette is box silhouette, trapeze silhouette, shift silhouette, and fitted silhouette. In detail and trimming, tailored, band, convertible, shirts collar and zigzag, scallop, camisole neckline and puff, cap sleeve and flounced, bell shaped cuffs and western button, zipper, etc. are adopted. Finally, the Chinese modern style are formed by accepting and transforming the western clothing based on the traditional Chinese clothing.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.58 no.6
• /
• pp.145-157
• /
• 2008

Vivienne Tam was born in mainland China and educated in Hong Kong and has worked mainly in New York. Within multi-cultural background, she has shown unique fashion designs where western styles and China esprit were harmonized.. This study analyzed the ethnic look featured on Vivienne Tam's design to identify how she has expressed her ethnic identity into fashion. Photos featuring ethnic appeal among her New York collection from 1996 S/S to 2005 F/W were analyzed in terms of shape/silhouette, color, fabric, motifs, detail and accessaries. She utilized frequently chinese motifs and patterns such as bamboo, panda, budha, flowers, letters, and masks. Secondly she modified the shapes of Chinese traditional costume like Quipao to render ethnic appeal. Color, fabric and detail like frog and embroidery also contributed to enhance China mood. Comparatively, she used western clothing items including shirts, blouses, skirts, pants, dresses, and coats and maintained the silhouette tight and fit so that most her designs look wearable and westernized.