• 한국의류학회지
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• 제29권2호
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• pp.242-253
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• 2005

The objective of this research is to identify and examine the punk hair styles which, with their various, rather vague names, help to describe the twentieth century subordinate culture or subculture and also their place today as one of the mainstream male hair trends. The scope of this research will stretch to include also: North-east and around that areas native Americans'hair styles which, are thought to have strong links with the Punk hair tend. The focus of this research will remain with the so-called Mohican or Mohawk hair styles(collectively referred to as Punk styles), which have originated mainly from native American warrions residing in North-east and South-east region of the United States. This study clarified a few questions in doubt concerning the origin of cockcomb hairstyle. Firstly, the cockcomb hairstyle known to represent punk hairstyle was influenced the American Indian's Roach style. Secondly, since Roach style is referred as Mohawk tribe's hairstyle in some refernces, the view of seeing cockcomb hairstyle as a Mohawk style is considered more persuasive. Thirdly, although Roach style was a usual hairstyle through North-east and South-east region of the United States, the people in South-east region did Roach hair style because of the North-east's influences. Lastly alike the Punkers had several kinds of cockcomb hairstyle. American Indians'Roach style also differed in shape concerning of their regions and their kindred. In addition, the reason why the most common term to refer punk hairstyle became Mohican is considered as that the film 'Last Mohican' has influenced on it. That film can appeal their history and play a good role of mediator to let the public know better about themselves, 'Mohican' naturally became the name of the specific hair style.

• 복식
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• 제22권
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• pp.313-332
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• 1994

The purpose of this study were as follows : 1) Investigate how to intluence Clothes with time background and trends of art-thought in the twenty century. 2) To understand chronologically how to change hair style Make-up and hair decor-ation. I. 1st and 2nd World War time(1920-1945) The women's social status and their sexual equality was promoted during in this time. 1) African Art Surrealism and Expression art were doninated. 2) The popalar trends were tutular silhoutte (Slim and long) boyish Style and military lookwere popular. 3) The popalar trends of were Eton Crop. short bob gaconne hair style cloche hat. page boy hair style were popular. 4) The trend of make-up which specially. emphasized eye make-up and imitated movie star make-up and make shining redish of lip and nails were popular. II. The stage of modernism(1945-1969) cold war time between communism and capi-talism and promotin of women's human rights were established in this time. 1) Pop art avantgrade art were catched up 2) The popular trends of were new look Kior's line silhoutte mini skirt and young fashion. 3) The popular trend of hair style was french twist. Pill Boxs hat curly bob style were prevalenced and they some what dwarfed hair style. 4) make-up natural make-up was popular. III. The stage of high economic development (1969-1990) Increased population economic development were tend to specialize with anti-social action such as Hippie and Punk groups. 1) Op art Androgynous post-modernism Punk and neo-modernism were catched up. 2) Clothes : classic style of reactionism layered look Punk-fashion avantgrade fashion and pantalon suits were prevalence. 3) Hair Style : Twiggy's short hair style the geometric hair cut natural long hair Spike hair unsex-hair style. 4) Make-up : diversified individuality were prevalence The result of this study indicated that the value's of recognize the importance of total fashion that is the harmonization of clothes hair style and make-up.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제6권2호
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• pp.67-76
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• 2002

This research examines the characteristic trends through analysis on cue in the contemporary fashion distinctly and systematically. It is carried out by both qualitative analysis and quantitative analysis. In the qualitative analysis, the four important street fashions of neo-mods/jazz, neo-hippie/grunge, sportivecasual and technos/cyber-punk are grouped. In the quantitative analysis, statistical data are sampled from Collection II of the 1990s S/S. It takes frequency, percentage, $\chi^2$-test and etc. by using the comprehensive tools for statistical treatment. There were significant differences between the S/S fashion. According to the cues, there are also significant differences between the fashion in the 1990s. In 'Neo-Mos/Jazz' style shows highly androgynous look, deep and strong tone, green/blue colors, natural fabric, stripe pattern, long hair style, and hided make-up. 'Neo-hippie/gnenge' style shows highly folklore look, vivid tone purple colors, seethrough/knit fabric, natural /traditional pattern, decorative hair special makeup. 'Sportive casuals' style shows highly sportive look, greish tone, white/grey colours, natural fabric, solid patten, bobbed hair, and natural make-up. 'Techno/cyber punk style shows highly comocorps look, pale tone black colors avangard fabric, solid patten, punk/dyed hair special make-up.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제4권3호
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• pp.79-90
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• 2000

On the beginning of 21C, in which it is a facing problem that the expansive image of future in fashion should be proposed from the comprehensive analysis for the fashion trend. Therefore, in this study, the trends of capricious fashion are distinctly quantified by investigating the cue of fashion in each styles. Also, the systematic evaluation is carried out of analyzing photographs to which the four important fashion styles. In particular, this study takes the practical and numerical results through quantitative analysis by statistical treatment as well as through qualitative analysis that has been formerly used in the other studies. The purposes of this study are to examine fashion trends expressed in important styles in the 1990s, and to formulate productive fashion of the future. In the qualitative analysis, the four important fashions of neo-mods/jazz, neo-hippie/grunge, sportive-casual and techos/cyber-punk are grouped. In the quantitative analysis, statistical data are sampled from Collection II of the 1990s A/W. It takes frequency, percentage, $x^2$-test and etc, by using the comprehensive tools for statistical treatment. There were significant differences between the A/W fashion. According to the cues, there are also significant differences between the fashion in the 1990s. The results of this study are summarized as follows: (1) In 'Neo-Mos/Jazz' style shows highly androgynous look, deep and strong tone, green/blue colors, natural fabric, stripe pattern, long hair style, and hided make-up. (2) 'Neo-hippie/gnenge' style shows highly folklore look, vivid tone purple colors, seethrough/knit fabric, natural /traditional pattern, decorative hair special make-up. (3) 'Sportive casuals' style shows highly sportive look, greish tone, white/grey colours, natural fabric, solid patten, bobbed hair, and natural make-up. (4) 'Techno/cyber punk style shows highly comocorps look, pale tone black colors avangard fabric, solid patten, punk/dyed hair special make-up.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제15권5호
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• pp.781-795
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is not only to widen and deepen the understanding of external environments of hairstyle but also to provide the basis of understanding and perspicacity as to the hairstyle which will be created under the influence of new music by contemplating distinctions between Glam Fashion and Punk Fashion of 1970s and by comparing and analyzing distinctions between Glam Hairstyle and Punk Hair Style of 1970s. As the method of this study, first of all four common factors, which are resistance, androgynous, beauty of ugliness and pursuit of pleasure through persona, were able to be ed from both Glam Fashion and Punk Fashion of 1970s, and then by using that factors as analyzing instrumental frame, the above two hairstyles were compared and analyzed through photographic materials in this study. According to the results of comparing and analyzing two hairstyles above, in Glam Hairstyle, the androgynous character is the most remarkable distinction. They tried to overturn the gender role by challenging the traditional color and form of hairstyle. In funk Hairstyle, the resistance is the most prominent distinction. They expressed their group identity resisting a pre-existing generation by putting on threatened and aggressive hairstyle.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제7권1호
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• pp.27-37
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• 1999

The results of this study are as follows : 1. Though Korean college women have taken unfriendly attitudes and thoughts to Japan, they have enjoyed themselves over the various Japanese cultures. 2. They have thought that Japanese fashion becomes popular in Korea, Japanese clothes are superior to Korean clothes in quality, and they are suitable to express personality. 3. Japanese clothing elements which become popular now in Korea are the clothing style of ‘school girl-look’, ‘Avant-garde’, punk hair style, and the various shapes of shoes, accessories, and make-up.

• 복식
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• 제53권2호
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• pp.101-118
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• 2003

This paper describes pop stars' fashion style by the changes of pop music from the 1950's of the formative Period of a rock-n-roll to the 1990's. The author could examine the features of pop music as follows : the 1950's rock-n-roll, the 1960's rock and Psychedelic rock. the 1970's punk rock, the 1980's new wave and the 1990's reggae·hip-hop. Based on the examination, the author could do sampling of the fashion style, on which current pop music had influence, by rock style, new wave style, and reggae hip-hop style. The rock style makes appearance again as a new style when it is recently accepted to be a fashion. The 1960's hippie, which contains long-cherished desire of antiwar and peace after September 11, 2001 Attack on America and the Afghan War. reappeared as luxurious hippie, and the hybrid punk has been made because barriers between cultures have been collapsed to mix items and combine contradicting components at fashion field. The new wave style destroys sex difference of clothes. and men's clothes style has introduced women's dress style, so that androgynous style, which has handsome boy image with womanlike hair style and makeup, and the lingerie style without distinction of underwear and outer garment has made appearance through new cloth wearing ways and overexposure. The reggae and hip-hop style makes appearance to overcome social strata, groups, ages, regions and gender, etc and become one of the 21s1 century culture codes. In conclusion, pop music have played very important roles until expansion and popularity of new fashion style, and has been quickly expanded by mass media development. When the pop music fashion styles are introduced to high fashion, fashion styles have become more polished and high-qualify to expand them at main fashion world again.

• 한국패션뷰티학회지
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• 제3권1호
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• pp.1-12
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• 2005

The purpose of this thesis is to study the formative characteristics and symbolism shown in Rock stars' hairstyles through rock music to have influenced youth culture. There were a D.A style and a mop top style which included the youth characteristic to seek a new desire and value as the hairstyles of Rock & Roll stars, along with the characteristics of Rock & Roll music to represent the feeling of teenagers in 1950's at that time unlike the previous music due to high beats mixed with Rhythm & Blues (R & B) and Country music, and use of electronic guitars. We can see the desire for challenge and freedom against the then present regime, shouting love and peace, and resistance in the Psychedelic Rock music stars' hairstyle, which are untrimmed and disheveled, that is, natural. We can find explosiveness in Mohican and Spike style of Punk Rock stars playing fierce and aggressive music, along with words including indignation and assertion against the society's regime. The Artistic characteristic is implied in the following hairstyles: Glam Rock stars' hairstyle, a man's long-haired but a little long crew-cut style to reduce the bulky feeling and to give a bisexual, visible shock with hair dyed in orange to emphasize magnificence, and Punk Rock stars' hairstyle showing beauty in their own way with expression of anti-beauty to intentionally look ugly. Like this, the 20th Century's Rock music and youth culture are closely associated each other, and showed a new style, and played a leading role in street fashion, which became a momentum to much influence high fashion as a look of the 20th century modern fashion.

• 복식
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• 제40권
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• pp.151-170
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• 1998

The purpose of this study is to examine the value of grotesque fashion and to predict the future fashion trend. The grotesque originates the formative art. It emerges towards of a century or transitional period in most case. In particular, it was used as the expressive method of an individual's inside and a satire on society through the work of artists in the Middle Age, the renaissance, the sym-bolism, the dadaism, the surrealism, the pop art, the technology art, and the post-modernism, etc. The grotesque in fashion is represented in the work of avant-garde fashion designers who lead the high fashion. The grotesque fashion which was combined with an image of non-formality, non-rationality, an absurdity and reality. It has been begun shape of female dress in the renaissance. Afterwards, it was represented in extremely exaggerated and distorted pop art, hippies' fashion in the 1960's. In the 1970's, it was reflected in genderless rock star and destructive punk fashion. It was also represented in the androgynous fashion which was combined with both sexes, the goth/gothic fashion which was expressed with a realistic and fanciful shape and the tattoo of skin-head in the 1980's. In the 1990's, the grungy look which was dirty and the cyber punk fashion. In general, it was also expressed by the avant-garde fashion designers. To sum up, a grotesque fashion which is expressed by experimental designers is classified into four shapes. 1, Union of some extraneous is expressed as different kinds of fashion theme, such as abnormality of texture, uses of surrealistic elements and chaos of sex. Although it appears that the abnormal union of grotesque has only discord and collision, it also shows a feeling of freedom for the tension. 2. Introduction of real and fanciful image is expressed as a cyborg, realistic description of disgusting animal skin and aggressive shape. Especially, it is worth while to notice Tierre Mugler and Alexander Macqueen's work which expressed the shape of mingling human of Middle Age. 3. distortion or exaggeration is expressed as an unformed shape, the exaggeration of a clothing size, the abnormal exaggeration of human body and the ignorance of clothing form. 4. Introduction of a disgusting image is expressed as an extremity of reality, motifs of death, clothing material of disgusting hair and the ostentation of sex. Motto which leads modern fashion is something new and shocking. The grotesque fashion is an expression of eagerness for something new. It often show something ironic in the form of humor which is embedded in an abnormal and shocking pattern. The grotesque fashion is represented as an extreme beauty. It will stand as an important element of the future fashion and as a particular style with the change and fluidity.