• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.17 no.5
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• pp.1-13
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to examine the power images in the style of a leader: through the focus on the portrait of Henry VIII. Study methods on the literature concerning viewpoints of power and image in the early modern age and the subjects of power are being used for theoretical backgrounds; and the visual data from National Portrait Gallery, British Library and the internet are used for exploratory studies. The results of this study are as follows. First, from the style of Henry VIII who represented the image of political power, the modern political phenomenon can be defined. Such phenomenon which displays images of political leaders from the study indicate an effective strategy. Second, the religious, a diplomatic representation for the style of Henry VIII powers, such as costume style and somatic visual images, represents the dignity and power by delivering visible internal attributes. Thus, the role model recognized by the society and the public's perception of leadership style affects the acknowledgement and belief by the people.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.53 no.3
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• pp.142-163
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• 2020

In the early Joseon dynasty, the meritorious vassals' portrait of Jeokgae (1467, 1476), Jeongguk (1506)·Jeongnan (1507), and Wisa (1545) were defined as the 2^nd period of the official uniform, in which the acheongsaek HeukDanryung appeared and settled. A total of seven portraits were analyzed, including three portraits of Jeokgae (1467, portrait production 1476) Son-so, Oh Jachi, and Jang Malson, and four portraits of Jeongguk (1506)·Jeongnan (1507) Yoo Sunjung, Hong Gyeongju, Lee Woo, and Yoo Hong. In the portrait of the Jeokgae wearing a Yebok HeukDanryung, in the case of the Samo, the height of the Samo, which had been raised at the beginning of King Seongjong, was lowered again, and the parietal part was rounded. The pattern was not expressed on the wide oval side wings of the Samo. In addition, the pattern was not expressed on the acheongsaek Danryung, Dapho, and Cheolrik. The colors of Dapho and Cheolrik were unified in green and red, respectively. The Mu of Danryung and Dapho was expressed as 'in and out wrinkled Mu', and the shoes were expressed in Baekhwa. Another feature is that the Jeokgae's portrait is expressed not as the Pumgye at the time of appointment, but as the Pumgye of the portrait production time. In the portrait of the Jeongguk·Jeongnan wearing a Sibok HeukDanryung, the height of the Samo lowered from the Jeokgae was maintained, while the parietal part was slightly narrowed and bent forward. The side wings of the Samo were expressed as an oval with a uniform width, and still the pattern was not expressed on the side wings. The pattern was not expressed in the costume of the Danghagwan's portrait, but the cloud pattern began to be expressed in the costume of the Dangsanggwan's portrait. And the Danryung was expressed as single Danryung without lining. In the portrait of Dangsang, the red Dapho and green Cheolrik were expressed, and in the portrait of Dangha, the green Dapho and blue Cheolrik were expressed. Therefore, it was found that the color of the undergarment was distinguished according to the Dangsang and Dangha. In Danryung and Dapho, the 'in and out wrinkled Mu' were maintained. The shoes were expressed in Heukhwa, and the rank badge and rank belt reflect the Pumgye at the time of the appointment. On the other hand, the portrait of Wisa could not be confirmed, but through the recording painting of the reign of King Meongjong, it was found that it was similar to the Danryung system of the reign of King Jungjong. Through the 2^nd period of the meritorious vassal's portrait of Jeokgae, it was confirmed that the HeukDanryung outfit began to be used as the official uniform of the meritorious vassal's portrait, and that the Pumgye of the portrait production time was reflected in the portrait. After the meritorious vassal's portrait of Jeongguk, the pattern began to be expressed in the costumes, and in particular, it was possible to distinguish Dasang and Dangha by the presence or absence of the HeukDanryung's pattern. In addition, it was confirmed that the expressed aspect of the official uniform was consistent with the practices and regulations at the time.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.8
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• pp.159-170
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• 2001

The culture and society environment plays major role in the development of Fashion and now in the 21st century, interest in Fashion is getting increased along with the rapid progress of advanced media development and information surge. Now it s the time to extend visual efficiency not only transmitting fashion image but also develop a creative product that satisfy the demander s needs. Currently it is very hard to express our subjective Korean "nationalism" in the Fashion since the various expression skill using western fashion illustration are dominant in our society. I have classified two components, fashion illustration and Korean painting in the theoretical circumstance. In fashion illustration circumstance, I examined the concept, usage, expression skill and history referring to historical documents. In Korean painting section, I considered coloring portrait concept, pattern, history, concept, and feature of the four gentlemanly plants. including the basic material of Korean-paper, Writing- Brush, Ink-Stone, Traditional-ink and also the history of itself. I have designed 8 products applying the concept of plum blossoms, orchids, chrysanthemums and bamboos that represent the most important part of the four gentlemanly plants, and also the expression skill of Korean coloring portrait.rait.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.25
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• pp.63-69
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• 1995

The purpose of this study was to investigate to the costumes in a portrait of the Buddhist Monk of JUN-NAM's local Temple. The Kasa was used to base of the rule be-cause this was not our's own costumes. There-fore size, form, wearing-assistance ornament of Kasa were to similiar to the rule's Kasa. But in case of color were used to pink, yellow, chest-nut except the red color. A Buddhist monk's robe were putted on adapt to climate in our nation. Without special condition, a Buddhist monk's robe were used to varied color, that is grey, green, pink, blue,(light, navy) blue, chestnut etc.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.5
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• pp.102-117
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• 2008

This study shows the badge system for military officials of Joseon dynasty. The badge system for military officials of the 15th century consists of rank badges with tiger and leopard for the first and second ranks and rank badges with bear for the third rank. According to the code of laws, military officials are supposed to wear the rank badges with four different kinds of animals in Joseon dynasty. However, the badge system shown in the code of laws sometimes does not match with the badges in practices. Based on the literature, remaining badges and the badges in portraits, six different kinds of badges with animals are found : First, rank badges with tiger and leopard were used until the late 16th century. Second, rank badges with tiger were found in the period between the early 17th century and the latter 18th century. Third, rank badges with Haechi were found in the early 17th century. Fourth, rank badges with lions can be found in remains of the mid 17th century, the literature and the portrait of the late 18th century. Finally, the rank badges with double leopards or with single leopard were found from a portrait dated the late of 18th century to the last period of Joseon dynasty.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.799-807
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• 2009

When analyzing make-up trends of figures shown in portraits of different eras in Chinese painting history, you can see that red color was used much. This can be because the red color is the most outstanding among all the colors and was most preferred by ancient people, as the color of the sun, the blood, and the sacredness. The women in the Tang Dynasty was especially using the red color much. Though Seongrihak (Neo-Confucianism) in Song Dynasty was the governing ideology, it had an influence even upon its aesthetics. Thus, during Song Dynasty, the beauty of logos appeared too. This phenomenon showed a conservative tendency even in make-up as well as in costume, thereby the concept of clear and elegant beauty was emphasized. The real figure in the Ming and Ching Dynasty, was so young and weak as a sample of a delicate woman that a woman who had feminine beauty was regarded as an ideal type. The feminine image had been gradually generalized from the literary works in the latter half of Ming Dynasty. However, the painters in the era still preferred the beauty of a healthy woman. That tendency probably had an influence even upon make-up culture that was shown in portrait. As an analysis result of make-up culture in Chinese portrait paintings, it reveals that ancient make-up trends much reflected the social and cultural phenomena of the periods.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.48 no.2
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• pp.193-210
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• 2024

The portrait featuring Jo Ban(1341-1401), a scholar-official from the late Goryeo and early Joseon period, and his wife is the oldest surviving couple portrait in Korea. It is of great value in uncovering the clothing culture of the period given the limited number of historical artifacts and records. This study examines the historical clothing and textile patterns of Jo Ban's wife and reproduces them using 3D fashion design software program CLO. She wears jokduri, chima, and baeja over layers of jeogori, a mixture of traditional Korean and Chinese styles. Her clothing illustrates eight patterns-one flower, five geometric, and two cloud. Records and relics of similar periods show that flower and geometric patterns in her clothing follow the prevailing styles of Goryeo, while the cloud patterns are representative of early Joseon. These details are used to reproduce six different styles of Jo Ban's wife with CLO tools. Various visualizations of textile patterns are applied to materials, generating a more realistic look than her existing 3D character created with the portrait. Results of this study are expected to help promote the use of Goryeo clothing and patterns in numerous designs and enhance intuitive understanding of Goryeo clothing based on 3D visualization.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.263-277
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• 2008

In picture bible, the picture is helpful for showing story more vividly and specifically and it is helpful for finding the meaning of bible hidden behind familiarity. It plays the role of the most powerful testimony and expression, with which human provides himself. The purpose of study was to grasp the relation among historical background of the middle age, human's characteristic and symbolic color by considering the fact that the costume expressed in Maciejowski Bible, which is a picture bible of the middle age and observing type, color and decoration of costume. Among 46 folios organizing Maciejowski Bible, 129 pictures explaining the Book of Genesis, the Book of Exodus, the Book of Leviticus, the Book of Numbers, the Book of Deuteronomy, the Book of Joshua and the Book of Judges, which belong to the former 400 years of the old Testament, were analyzed for people's costumes. The pictures shown in Maciejowski Bible portrays object, costume and behavior on the background of France of the 13th century so we can find out the precious natures of middle age's costume, weapon and armor. Especially, the portrait about finger armor of chain mail attached in hauberk becomes the outstanding evidence that can encroach the discussion over whether it was used in the end of 1300s. Regarding costumes of main characters, they wore chemise and braies as underwear, wore tunic or cotte having various lengths from the length reaching knee to the length reaching 8round as basic costume and wore mantle with different-colored lining and hose with various colors. In the war picture, we can see hauberk made with chain mail and cyclas with long slit, which was worn over hauberk, barrel helmet, norman helmet and steel school cap. Regarding cap. man usually wore coif, beret, shade-shaped cap, straw hat and woman wore the decoration using veil and hairlace and used the method to wrap whole hair with net. As the colors used in the costume of the picture bible, scarlet, blue, green and brown were usually used in order. They usually wore costumes decorated splendidly with the colors haying hish brightness and chroma.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.1
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• pp.120-136
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• 2012

This thesis takes an aim to investigate the relationship between the costume and enlightenment ideology by studying the change of costume, and reviewing the portraiture of Queen Marie Antoinette. The method of this research is to select the 29 pieces among the portraitures from 1770 to 1793, and to analyze the headdress, shape of robes and ornaments. The results are as follows. The first period(1770-1774): The costume in this period of Dauphin of France is described as vivid, and simple like her characters, and also represents her active lifestyle. The ideology of equality between the two sexes from the enlightenment slightly influence the costumes seen inside the portrait of Dauphin. The second period (1775-1779): This is the early period of the Queen's enthronement and also before her childbirth. The relatively small number of portraits showed her as an authoritative figure because her skirts were expanded with huge panier, the waist were tightened with corset, and her headdress was enlarged. Thus, this period could not be defined as the one of enlightenment philosophies in light of the persistent unsanitary construction of costumes distorting the body. The third period(1780-1789): There are many portraits depicting the Queen and her children. It is noteworthy that the English style picturesque garden was illustrated as a background while the costume was simple and sanitary, both being affected by the enlightenment. The last period(1789-1793): This is the period between the French revolution and the death of the Queen. The form of costumes was transformed into the neoclassic style, headdress was reduced in size, and was simplified as a result of complete change of costume for the enlightenment. This research is to be interpreted as a tool of study about the relationship of costume, society and ideological streams and also be a means of elucidating the contemporary times in view of the past ones.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.1-24
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• 2016

This study investigated the ideal female beauty in advertisement images through the iconological comprehension of Renaissance portraits and explored the longitudinal change of the ideal female beauty in modern Korean society. A total of 146 cover images on Hyang-Jang magazine, which is the company magazine of AMORE PACIFIC Group, from 1972 to 2012 were selected as the data. These images were divided into 10-year units for analysis using iconological criteria, which were pose, shape of eyes and lip, and hairstyle. The way presenting the cover images on Hyang-Jang magazine had changed in order to emphasize female body, self-satisfaction and independence of female, and sexual attractiveness of female. The results of this study implied that the change of ideal female beauty had been affected by socio-cultural contexts of modern Korean society that has industrialized and democratized in a short period of time.