• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.24 no.5
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• pp.106-124
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• 2020

The purpose of this study was to analyze the three-dimensional (3D) characteristics and reproducibility of the effective expression of North American smocking pleats in the process of making clothes using a 3D virtual clothing system (CLO) and present a method of expression according to the types of North American smocking. In this study, lattice, lozenge, and flower smocking were produced as real smocking and 3D virtual content, and actual muslin properties were measured using a Fabric Kit and reflected using an emulator. The results of this study confirmed that a dense puckered design such as North American smocking could be expressed depending upon the internal line, fold angle, and reinforcement setting for 3D smocking. To partially apply pleats to flat fabrics, it was necessary to set fold lines. The fold line setting could be expressed by designing the internal line in horizontal, vertical, and diagonal directions according to the North American smocking design, and then setting the fold angle for each internal line. By setting fold angles of 0 degrees and 360 degrees according to the folding direction of the set internal line, the fabric was clearly folded and stable pleats were created. This study will contribute to the vitalization of the 3D virtual fashion content industry by analyzing and presenting the optimal expression method of sophisticated and complex pleats generated according to the North American smocking design pattern.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.15 no.3
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• pp.457-467
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• 2006

The following research compares two mostly-used apparel systems that are used in colleges of Korea, Gerber and PAD, by analyzing advantages and disadvantages of their Dart, Tuck and Pleats-related functions in pattern construction process. The results are the following: First, regarding transformation methods, Gerber system was able to use pivot method, while PAD system was able to use both pivot and slash method. As for movement, distribution, synthesis, folding, producing additional Dart function, the PAD system was not able to synthesize more than two Darts, and only showed differences for other functions. On the other hand, the diamond-shape Dart and diagonal Dart can be produced only in PAD system, while none of curvy shaped Dart can be produced in both systems. Second, as for pattern outer line connection capability, which is a Dart automatic transformation function, both systems showed unnatural shapes and need for correction. Third, when constructing according to the type of Tuck, we could distribute multiple Darts at a time with PAD system, while with Gerber system, distribution into multiple Darts at a time was impossible at all. Fourth, when constructing according to the contour of Pleats, Gerber system made it possible to make construction of multiple lines and box/inverted Pleats with just one order, but PAD system required repetitive tasks, which remains room for enhancement in regard to such inefficiency.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.4
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• pp.163-176
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• 2003

Waist lined Coat with Pleats excavated from Byun-su(1447-1524) Tomb in Yangpyeong were very similar in size to the costume of Haeina Temple which is the oldest YosunChollik up to now YosunChollik was popularly worn in the Yuan Dynasty of China(원) and it is presumed to be flown into Korea in that period. In China, the coat with a straight collar was called ByeonseonOh , and one with a round collar was called ByeonseonOhja in the Yuan Dynasty. The excavated relics of Haeinsa Temple are almost same as ByeonseonOh. In the Myoung Dynasty(명), the coat with a straight collar was called YoseonOhja, and one with a round collar was called Round collar YoseonOhja . The Waist lined Coat with Pleats excavated in the Byunsu Tomb is same as YoseonOhja Attendants who is low in position and doctors used to wear the coat, which was spread to diverse classes by degrees. Later, even emperors and high ranking officials used to wear it as military uniforms. It was made of silk and summer cloth. As mentioned above, 1 examined its history carefully through Chinese documents and photographic materials on relics. In addition, with the authentic records of Korea and the excavated relics of the Byun-su Tomb, 1 analyzed its components. However, the analysis was very restricted because the relics to be compared with were few.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.8
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• pp.873-882
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• 2003

The purpose of the study is altering ready-made garments for the wheelchair users. Some alterations ready-made garments suggested for the wheelchair users are applicable to the physical conditions using the wheelchair, which create limitations in the use of clothing. Alterations ready-made garments were suggested 3 parts of the altering on the tops and 3 parts of the pants. Detachable sleeves at the elbow, adding the action pleats on the shoulder and back openings with zipper were adapted on the tops. The altering crotch length from the center back, changing position of the pocket and adding the pleats at the knee were adapted on the pants. The snap-tapes, zipper and hook & eye were used for the altering the ready-made garments.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.13 no.2 s.30
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• pp.137-145
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• 1989

The purpose of this study was to investigate the effect of the permenent pleats finish on the cystine contents and the physical properties of wool fabrics. Monoethanolamine Sulfite (MEAS) was used as a reducing agent. Cystine contents of the fabrics were determined after the fabric was treated with various MEAS concentrations and steamset time. The cystine contents were increase as the MEAS concentrations were increased. The cystine contents were also increased with steamset time. As the settability showed close relationship with the cystine contents, breakdown and rebuilding of the cystine linkage was thought to play an important role for the settability. Physical properties such as shrink resistance, crease recovery angle and tensile strength were increased as the MEAS concentration was increased. As the stramset time was increased, shrink resistance and crease recovery angle were in creased.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.13 no.4
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• pp.380-387
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• 1989

The Purpose of this study was to investigate the color changes of acid dyed wool fabrics after imparting permanent pleats with si-ro-set finish. Monoethanolamine sulfite was used as a reducing agent. Color changes were determined by measuring CIELAB values after treating the dyed fabrics with various setting temperatures, times and concentrations of MEAS. Setting temperature affected the color changes: in the order of $150^{\circ}C>130^{\circ}C>170^{\circ}C$ Setting time had a tendency to increase the color change. As the concentration of MEAS increased, $\delta$ E was increased. Azo dye was more affected than anthraquinone dye by MEAS treatment. Color changes were mainly due to $\delta$ L.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.1
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• pp.80-91
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to examine how he successfully connected his ideas of fashion design for art with the commerciality without a conflict about for 40 years. It is expected that this study will be a precedent in the aspect of the symmetry between artistry and commercialization in Issey Miyake's works. We will examine Issey Miyake's idea of fashion design and its development for the commercialization since 1970s that he started to give shape to his ideas in the fashion works to exactly commercialize in the market. 1. Re-creation of tradition(a piece of cloth): throughout the 1970s, Miyake continued to experiment with a variety of Eastern design elements. The elements of Japanese or oriental tradition made him to be at the very center of supreme of the world of fashion. He took advantages of his identity, and developed the tradition for mass produce. 2. Design for mass(Pleats Please): Miyake decided to make clothes for the people, not only for the top class of the society. This thought developed the designs for the mass, which were functional, universal for the modem buyer, and accessible to a wide market. He realized his ideal by the medium of pleats, which were made through industrial processes, while he tried variously the aspect of formative of the pleats in the collections. His designs concept is summarized by the industrial product design and anonymous design. 3. Innovation of manufacturing system(A-POC): Miyake in 1999 developed A-POC. A-POC is used modern computers in conjunction with traditional technology. A-POC does not make only a new cloth but also makes a new manufacturing system of clothes.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.15 no.4
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• pp.157-173
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• 2013

In the pleats of the statue in the ancient Greece, a vivid expression is included about clothing, which has organic relationship with a human body. This study examined about diverse expressions of pleats that were shown in the Greek sculpture, based on understanding about a pleat meaning and function, and clothes. As a result, the clothes, which were shown in the statue in the ancient Greece, were reflecting spirit and fashion of the times. The pleats, which were expressed in clothing, are closely related to a human body and simultaneously are those that a sculptor showed own creative intention in a work by reflecting a historical demand, thereby having become an important element of dominating the image in the whole clothing. Also, a change and development in expression were being progressed according to a flow of each period. Amidst what expressiveness based on lines are excellent, the unity and the dynamic formative characteristic were forming the mainstream. The design-based elements related to these characteristics are judged to possibly give many inspirations to designers in the modern fashion design sphere, which is mixed diverse styles, and are considered to be able to be helpful even for establishing newer and more creative design.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.12 no.2
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• pp.42-58
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to examine actual design cases of decorative detail in the Art Nouveau style from the end of 19th century to the beginning of 20th century, and create designs and fashion works to meet our contemporary fashion trends by means of over-decorative style, a characteristic of decorative detail. The characteristics of decorative detail in the Art Nouveau style can be outlined as follows: First, pleats appear with two major feels of solidity, undulated and curvilinear solidity based on gather(ruffle, frill/ flare and flounce) and regular and linear solidity based on linear pleats or tucks. Second, embroidery appears in various patterns developed with stitch of solid feel as well as a variety of coloration effects. Third, attachments are expressed by means of independent motif(applique, gloss effects(beads, sequins), affluent texture and mobility(fur, feather). Moreover, according to technical characteristics and expressive aspects of pleats, embroidery and attachments, it is found that decoration detail in the era of Art Nouveau is over-decoration style. Indeed, it appears in major expressive aspects such as rhythmical solid type, detailed prominence type, superficial touch type and profound volume type.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.2 no.2
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• pp.49-62
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• 1999

The purpose of this study is to evaluate the combination of details on the maternity clothes of one-piece type through visual evaluation which helps compensating pregnant women＇s body defects for their more attractive fashion styles. The data evaluated by a multiple ranking test were analyzed by mean, paired t-test, general linear models procedure and Duncan＇s multiple ranged test. The result are as follows : 1) The pregnant woman wearing the one-piece dress with notched collar, pleats and whole button looks longer in lower part of bodies, smaller in upper body, slimmer, have less appeared bust and abdomen, more balanced as a Whole than when wearing others. And also, it makes a pregnant woman be seen more refined and simple. 2) In case of a pregnant woman, a one-piece dress with notched collar, tuck and whole button makes her look longer in neck, narrower in shoulder, and more active than when wearing others. 3) With roll collar, pleats and whole button, it looks taller and more graceful than when wearing others.