• 비교문화연구
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• 제46권
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• pp.435-463
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• 2017

이 글은 오카와 슈메이(大川周明)가 천황주의를 내세우면서 활용한 동서문화융합 방법론적 특징을 '횡단문화'의 시도라고 간주하여, 그 '원리'가 무엇인지를 밝히는데 목적이 있다. 특히 횡단문화론의 원리를 오카쿠라 덴신(岡倉天心)과 와카미야 유노스케(若宮卯之助)와의 관계 속에서 규명했다. 오카쿠라는 직접적인 서구 경험을 통해 서구 문화를 일본인 입장에서 상대화하려는 시점에서 동서문화 융합론을 제시했다. 와카미야의 경우는 서양인 윌리엄 녹스(William Knox)의 번역서를 활용하면서, 서구인이 제시한 동서문화 비교론을 인용하면서 일본문화의 특성을 논했다. 이 둘의 공통점은 중앙아시아가 세계문명의 근원지였고, 그것이 서구라는 지역에서는 하나의 서구적 특성으로 습산(襲産)되어 서구문명이 탄생된 것이라고 여긴 점에 있었다. 이러한 시점은 서구를 하나의 지역으로 간주하는 논리를 갖게 해 주었고, 아시아도 아시아적 문화가 존재한다는 논리를 형성하게 해 주었다. 이를 바탕으로 오카쿠라 덴신은 문화 진화론적 융합론을 제시했고, 와카미야는 문화 본질주의 논리의 입장을 통해 일본문화론을 주창했다. 이것이 바로 구축과 본질의 당김 속에서 나타난 동서문화 횡단론이었다. 오카와 슈메는 이 둘의 논리를 적극적으로 활용하면서, 서구의 문화와 아시아의 문화 횡단으로서 일본문화가 존재한다고 주장할 수 있었다. 동서양의 문화를 횡단한 일본의 천황은 문화가 아니라 문명으로 승격시킬 수 있었다. 그리하여 일본의 천황은 세계적 횡단 문명의 보편성을 갖는 문명천황으로 그 '정통성'을 확보하게 된 것이다. 오카와 슈메이는 동서문화 횡단론이라는 규구(規矩) 속에서 '보편성=일본문명=천황'을 창출해 냈던 것이다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제29권3_4호
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• pp.449-461
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to rediscover the hidden value of non-mainstreamers style which has been overlooked for the past decade by investigate the aesthetics and formative features of the Grunge fashion. The Grunge fashion was derived from explosive popularity of the early 90's grunge music. Grunge was the alternative anti-thesis against mainstream pop music and anti-fashion against mainstream fashion. Dirty, rubbish grunge style of the poor street youth and grunge musicians have raised to the high fashion by designers. And These trial of designers made people to notice the value of the non-mainstreamers street style like grunge. Actually, the grunge brought the shock with many argument to the 90's fashion field. But now, It became the classic of the street fashion. And It has potent influence on the music, culture and high fashion. The Grunge is a kind of links between music and fashion, street fashion and high fashion, sub culture and mainstream culture, the past and now. Grunge isn't only a fashion of appearance. It is the attitude of wearing clothes and living a life. Variety grunge style in the international street fashion, high fashion, typical musicians's fashion of the 1990's and the 2000's was researched for this study. These materials were gathered from music magazines, fashion magazines, movies, musics and books. As a results of analysis, Grunge has the formative features like mix & match, layering, patchwork, primitive edge, rag, retro, recycle, kinderwhore, sneer scribbling, disheveled hair. Grunge also has the Aesthetic features like the beauty of $disorder{\cdot}\;disharmony{\cdot}\;incompleteness{\cdot}\;kitsch{\cdot}\;poverty{\cdot}\;alternative{\cdot}\;eclectic{\cdot}$symbiosis. For the last 10 years, These features changed our fashion be more pluralistic and dynamic.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제18권3호
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• pp.569-587
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• 2010

In the field of fashion in this modern era, the tendency of diversification has created a variety of hybrid patterns and this tendency is being accelerated simultaneously by the hybrid trend. This research aims to analyze the aesthetic features of hybrid fashion in the modern "Sports Inspired Fashion(SIF)." We analyze fashion in the past 10 years from 2001 S/S to 2010 S/S. We focus on the four largest worldwide collections from New York, Paris, Milano, and London and concentrate on analyzing the contents from 38 volumes of Gap Press magazine. To accomplish our goal of study, we first define the concept of sports-inspired fashion and propose a framework of analysis to study hybrid patterns by reviewing the previous studies on hybrid patterns. Second, we analyze a wide range of sports-inspired fashion examples that have appeared in Gap Press magazines for the past 10 years(those which have been inspired by sports uniforms and training wears). Third, we analyze and classify the hybrid patterns of sports-inspired fashion. The results of our research are as follows. We have collected a total of 534 SIF works from the whole set of 61359 pictures and examined 23 sports fields. In terms of seasonal changes, the SIF works were found the most in the spring collections. Then, we have identified 25 hybrid patterns. The time hybrid pattern comprises more than half of the data(58.2%). The class-culture hybrid patterns comprise 18.8%, while the gender hybrid patterns comprise 18.2%. However, the intercultural hybrid patterns were rarely found, comprising merely 5% of the data. Our analysis confirms that sports and sports wear fashion are changing and developing in truly diverse ways in this modern era. This trend has continued to influence the high fashion in the modern age and is expected to exert a continuous impact on the change of fashion in the future.

• 한국식생활문화학회지
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• 제30권1호
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• pp.1-7
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• 2015

Traditional cuisine reflects cooking traditions shaped by political, economic, social, cultural, and environmental conditions characterized by authenticity and uniqueness. Traditional food is not only a part of our cultural heritage but also a knowledge resource. Application of food science and technology in Korean traditional foods was reviewed from six points of view, including food preservation, fermentation, changes in food materials, utilization of food functionality, and packaging and development of cooking appliances. Books from disparate times were chosen in order to cover a wide range of materials from the past to the present. Food preservation and fermentation techniques were applied to various food materials. Combination of science and skills contributes to the accessibility of diverse food materials and better quality foods. Koreans use assorted and resilient plants, which have an abundance of functional substances such as food materials. Among cooking appliances, microwave oven and refrigerator are the most innovative products with huge influences on food eating patterns as well as lifestyle. Packaging effectively reduces post-harvest preservation losses, and better packaging has technical improvements for storage and distribution. Kimchi was chosen as an example in order to study technology from the past to the present. Availability of Kimchi cabbage, enrichment of functional ingredients, identification of useful microbial species, standardization of recipe for commercialization, prevention of texture softening, introduction of salted Kimchi cabbage and Kimchi refrigerators, and packaging were reviewed. The future of traditional foods in the market will be competitive. First, traditional foods market should be maintained to protect the diversity of food materials. Secondly, tailored foods for individuals should be considered using foods with functional properties. Information on health benefits would provide insights into health and traditional food products. Third, speedy transfer of new technology to the traditional food industry is needed to ensure food quality production and new opportunities in the market. Fourth, safety of traditional foods should be ensured without sacrificing the essential characteristics of culturally important foods. Improvement of logistics, distribution, and facility should be carried out. As demand for convenience foods increases, traditional foods should be developed into products.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제21권3호
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• pp.137-147
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• 2019

The purpose of this study, I investigate the new trend, 'new-tro', through the music video costumes of young generations, and analyze the meaning and characteristics of 'new-tro'. The research method is, select 30 music video with new-tro fashion style on the music sites, and the fashion styles were analyzed in 11 music videos checked and selected by 100 students. As a definition of the term, 'retro' refers to a phenomenon in which the past reappears in modern time, and 'new-tro' is a new retro trend, a social phenomenon that enjoys the old with a modern sense, and is a compound word of 'new' and 'retro'. 'new-tro' is a modern reinterpretation and rebirth of the past style, and 'fu-tro' is a style of coexistence between the past and the future. In the music video, fashion is a media language and cultural code, and it creates trend or new fashion, that communicates with the public, stimulating emotions. As a result of the research, the common trend phenomenon expressed in the music video costume of 'new-tro' trend which appeared in 2000s is as follows. 1. New-tro style starts with items that were famous in the past. 2. It is one of postmodern marketing using color, print and logo. 3. It spreads quickly by the influence of culture that is characteristic of the Internet and SNS world. 4. It is bottom up propagation phenomenon of street fashion. 5. It is a time game where modern people connect the past with the present. 6. "new-tro" continues to evolve for that time, based on 'retro'. New-tro, an evolutionary version of the 21st century retro wave. and it is a key to marketing effectiveness as a sympathetic elements of 1020 generations with the reproduction of memories.

• 한국실내디자인학회논문집
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• 제13권4호
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• pp.92-101
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• 2004

A rational and logical sense of design often found in modernism(including minimalism) sometime deal with the criticism that such characteristics which derived from those of modernism, lack emotion31 qualities(arises from human feelings). It consequently took them to adopt traditional designs in the past, creating such conditions that constantly escapes from‘present’ one and back to the‘new’. This mode develops a trend in current interior design which decorative elements such as art work: traditional arts, folk crafts, flowers and green are much evident. Thus, using many decorative elements of the past(what was once banned since modernism), brings up the interesting point of view that needs to be discussed a new decorative trend if today's interior design. It will approach by comparing significances of past decorative expressions with present through which investigation, will show a better understanding of recent characteristics in interior designing, a.k.a, a current trend since minimalism, embracing important qualities of culture, ecology and people - against today's less-inspired, standardizing spaces.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제11권6호
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• pp.11-23
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• 2007

This study has investigated the stream of consciousness and the actual conditions of tattoo. A survey of 466 people has found that female prefer tattoo, and a group of age between 21 and 41 and professionals are more interested in it. Both past and present of attitude consciousness about tattoo understand it dynamic and severe. However, it is considered as a feminine these days, whereas it had been understood as a masculine image in the past, which means a decrease of symbolism by gender. Also, in comparison with the past, the current thoughts on tattoo are getting hopeful and affirmative that we could know the attitude about tattoo changes. A survey of 106 tattooists shows that most people get a temporary tattoo, and permanent, semi-permanent tattoo came next. The most preferred area were eyebrows, are, shoulder, forearm, back of hand and waist, and a main reason of getting tattoo were for beauty and ostentation. For the level of satisfaction, 70.7% of the people polled said they were satisfied with it, and male preferred a pattern of animal, geometric and plant while female preferred a pattern of plant, animal, and geometric in order. So far, by the lack of basic information and data, efficiency value of tattoo is in negative view. Thus, it would be required to enhance a level of understanding tattoo focusing on the positive side like a new life style, sense of value, sensation and emotion of contemporary people, and generalize it by providing various technical information and knowledge of beauty image effect accompanied with tattoo.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제33권3호
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• pp.379-390
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• 2009

This Study is a research on symbolic meaning and artist's will of Vivienne Westwood's works which provide a new vision on woman's body and clothes. For the literary research, this study investigates theories of human's body which are phenomenal body of Merleau-Ponty's, the relations between power and body of M. Foucault's, cultural and social body of E. Goffman's and habitus of p, Bourdieu's. For the case research, Vivienne Westwood's collections are classified into each item which exaggerating and distorting woman's body such as Mini-Crini, corset, bustle cushion, bum-pad, farthingale and tailoring suits. Also she puts man's clothes item such as codpiece into woman's body. Through all of these design, she wants to reinterpret the woman's body and self-identity. Vivienne Westwood dose not leave the past just as a historic trace but recreates with her way of creation. Westwood has presented the satire which leads the parody of past in her unique ways of thinking and interpretation which mix the ideology of the past and the presents. Those make her look back the history and culture and express her esteem for self-identity of woman. Vivienne Westwood's works express woman's power and freedom in modem society.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제13권1호
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• pp.67-81
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• 2009

The culture of each era make their own art, and it is certain a sense of beauty is changed according to a flow of era. We can find an unique beauty in the traditional culture of one era. And it is formed by the local and climatically influences according to their own ethnic character. Furthermore, an unique beauty is became an important element in forming the culture. That is, it is the universality in general. What is important is to develop of one's tradition on the background of the past for the future. This study is focused on the personal ornaments of women's Gache among the Cyubang culture in Chosun era. Throughout the study of clothing design that applies various decorative elements like an ornamental hairpin, a chignon ornament, and ttoljam among the women's Gache, this study is proposed to internationalize of clothing design utilizing the Korean specific character. The concepts of this study are as follows : First, grasp a definition and notion about Gyubang Culture of Chosun Era. Second, consider the definition of ornamental culture and the specific characters and kinds of women's ornaments. Third, analyze the trend and examples in the modern fashion applying women's ornaments. The method of this study included national science and literature, fashion magazines, newspapers, internet, and the research of like materials, with the intent to set a foundation for understanding ornamental design. Throughout these backgrounds, I try to develop and make six modern clothing design that applies women's Gache.

• 복식
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• 제36권
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• pp.77-95
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• 1998

The culture of a country is formed by the sense of value of a nation being a creator as well as on operator of the culture. So, the Chinese culture and fruthermore, the sense of value the Chinese people can be understood through the study of the costume of China. Above all, the culture of China, including the costume, have been formed through the his-tory of exchange between the central Chinese people and its surrounding minority races, and it should not be overlooked that its own culture of each race is existing with each other in the great Chinese culture sphere. In the paper, the concept of costume as relections of a culture is confirmed through the examination of the characteristics of the costume of the Miao tribe with such history and culture as a background and on effort is made to take those as resources modern fashion designs while inferring from them the characteristics of costume with universal and original values sthat can be sublimated into the modernistic beauty. The results of the study are as follows. First, the basic composition consists of a simple jacket made in a way of straight-cut-ting and a close pleated skirt and it tended to put emphasis on diversified and splendid decorations compared with the simple basis composition. Second, the costume of the Miao tribe are characteristic of hair done in a knot with head-dress around head. Third, the kinds of dress are multifarious by race and region due to a long period of mobile and disperse life. In the course of studying the universal value of the Miao tribe is confirmed which is by no means inferior to the standard of the medernistic beauty which keeping its originality. The study is made to be helpful for activating the design going with the trend that the basic harmony between the nature and man, that is a climate and the local cul-ture hearing formed a splendid culture in the past, are being found again.