• Korean Journal of Pharmacognosy
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• v.49 no.2
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• pp.155-164
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• 2018

Nypa fruticans Wurmb is a species of palm, which is widely distributed in the mangrove forest of Southeast Asia. Various parts of N. fruticans has been used as a traditional medicinal plant. However, the physiological activities of N. fruticans has not yet been clarified well. Therefore, in this study, the 50% ethanol extract and its aqueous and ethyl acetate fractions of young shoots of N. fruticans were investigated for their antioxidant, cytoprotective effect, and antimicrobial activities. Every sample possessed very high free radical and various ROS scavenging capacities assessed by employing different in vitro assays such as $DPPH^{\cdot}$, $O_2^{{\cdot}-}$, ${\cdot}OH$, and $^1O_2$ scavenging activities. Based on these results, the cytoprotective effect was investigated using the oxidative hemolysis of erythrocyte. We found that the extract and fractions provide a greater protective effect compared with (+)-${\alpha}$-tocopherol. Furthermore, antimicrobial activities were confirmed against skin pathogens by broth microdilution assay. The ethyl acetate fraction had much higher antimicrobial activities than methyl paraben against Staphylococcus aureus, Bacillus subtilis, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, and Candida albicans. Taken together, our results indicated that the young shoots of N. fruticans may have the potential role as a natural active ingredient through their antioxidant, cytoprotective effect, and antimicrobial activities.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.22 no.2
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• pp.201-210
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• 1996

Predictive tests for the identification of contact sensitizing chemicals have been developed. We measured the sensitization potential with three predictive tests, the in vitro and the in vivo Local Lymph Node Assay(LLNA), ELISA to detect interferon-gamma(IFN-${\gamma}$) from supernatant and flow cytometry to detect change of cell surface proteins, using draining lymph nodes of mice. BALB/c mice were exposed to various chemicals or vehicles on the ears daily for 3 consecutive days in all experiments. With some exceptions of propyl paraben, neomycin sulfate, the in vivo LLNA was able to detect the sensitizing capacity of test chemicals and was more sensitive than the in vitro LLNA for chemicals used in the present study. In another experiment, contact sensitivity was assessed by the ELISA to detect IFN-Υ from the supernatants of the cultured LNCs after sensitization with chemicals. There was a good correlation between the LLNA and the IFN-Υ production for test chemicals. We also examined the change of cell surface proteins on LNCs after sensitization by flow cytometry for some cell adhesion molecules(ICAM-1, E-cadherine, B7 molecule), T cell markers(CD3, CD4, CD8, T$\alpha$$\beta$,T${\gamma}$$\delta$) and B cell markers(LR1, CD45R, I-Ad). The number of ICAM-1 positive cells and B cells in LNCs were increased after sensitization with DNCB, TNCB, isoeugenol and 25%, 50% cinnamic aldehyde compared with that of vehicle as a control. In conclusion, the in vivo LLNA could provide more sensitive screening test for moderate to strong sensitizers and some weak sensitizers including cosmetic raw materials than the in vitro LLNA. The production of IFN-Υ by allergen-activated LNCs might be a values indicators without radioisotopes for the identification of contact allergens. Detection of allergens by testing the increase of ICAM-1 positive cells and B cells in LNCs by flow cytometry might be used as a test method to detect allergens.

• The Journal of the Convergence on Culture Technology
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• v.5 no.4
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• pp.445-450
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• 2019

Recently, consumers using cosmetics have a great interest in raw material safety. Among them, interest in natural preservatives is increasing, and as the demand for cosmetics excluding paraben preservatives increases, a method of replacing synthetic preservatives with antibacterial essential oils is being considered. The antibacterial effect of essential oils depends on the components, concentrations and interactions between the main active compounds. Effective preservatives should have antimicrobial activity against a wide range of strains even at minimal concentrations. All preservatives should be considered to increase skin concentration and cause skin irritation and allergic reactions. Consumers recognize that essential oils from nature are safe, but some should be careful because they can cause contact allergies or phototoxic reactions. As such, it is important to balance natural preservatives with maximum preservative effects and low toxicity. This paper describes the characteristics of essential oils focused on antibacterial properties, efficacy and safety as cosmetic preservatives.

• Microbiology and Biotechnology Letters
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• v.39 no.1
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• pp.63-69
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• 2011

In this study, the antibacterial activity and the antioxidative effects, inhibitory effects on tyrosinase of Lespedeza cuneata G. Don extracts were investigated. MIC value of ethyl acetate fraction from L. cuneata G. Don on P. ovale (0.125%) showed that the antibacterial activity of the ethyl acetate fraction was higher than methyl paraben. The aglycone fraction of L. cuneata G. Don (14.63 ${\mu}g$/mL) showed the most prominent the free radical (1,1-diphenyl-2-picryl-hydrazyl, DPPH) scavenging activity ($FSC_{50}$). Reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activities ($OSC_{50}$) of L. cuneata G. Don fraction on $Fe^{3+}$-EDTA/$H_2O_2$ system were investigated using the luminol-dependent chemiluminescence assay. The aglycone fraction of L. cuneata G. Don (0.07 ${\mu}g$/mL) showed the most prominent ROS scavenging activity. The protective effects of extract/fractions of L. cuneata G. Don on the rose-bengal sensitized photohemolysis of human erythrocytes were investigated. The L. cuneata G. Don extracts suppressed photohemolysis in a concentration dependent manner (1 ~ 50 ${\mu}g$/mL). The inhibitory effects ($IC_{50}$) of L. cuneata G. Don extracts on tyrosinase were determined with ethyl acetate fraction (104.83 ${\mu}g$/mL) and aglycone fraction (27.55 ${\mu}g$/mL) of L. cuneata G. Don extract. These results indicate that L. cuneata G. Don extract/fractions can function as high potential as bactericide against the pathogenic bacteria and antioxidant in biological systems, particularly skin exposed to UV radiation by scavenging $^1O_2$ and other ROS, and protect cellular membranes against ROS. Extract/fractions of L. cuneata G. Don could be applicable to new functional cosmetics for antiaging, antioxidant, and antibacterial activity.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.44 no.3
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• pp.349-362
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• 2018

An annual plant, Eclipta prostrata (Linn) is a member of the Asteraceae plant family and inhabited in tropical or subtropical regions of the world. Through many previous researches, E. prostrata has been extensively studied for its hepatoprotective effect, antivenom potential against viper venom, antioxidant, hair-growth, wound-healing efficacy and so on. In this study, for better understanding of the potential of E. prostrata as skin protectant, we conducted the experiments evaluating the antioxidant and antiaging efficacy. To this end, 50% ethanolic extract of E. prostrata and its ethyl acetate fraction were prepared and investigated. For the evaluation of antioxidant capacity of the samples, $FSC_{50}$ and $OSC_{50}$ were estimated. As a result, $OSC_{50}$ of ethyl acetate fraction was 2.7 times superior to $OSC_{50}$ of L-ascorbic acid, a well known antioxidant agent. Futhermore E. prostrata showed notable reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging effect and protective effect against $H_2O_2$ in the celluar level as well. Especially, in the $^1O_2$ induced hemolysis test, $64{\mu}g/mL$ of ethyl acetate fraction showed greater than 6 times increased retardation effect compare to control which means E. prostrata has remarkable antioxidant capacity. To validate the antiaging effect of the samples, we conducted elastase inhibition assay using elastase solution extracted from human skin fibroblasts, Hs68. As a result, $16{\mu}g/mL$ of each sample showed 6.8% and 14.0% of elastase inhibition respectively. Finally, antimicrobial activity of E. prostrata was assessed to validate the possibility as alternative preservative. From the result, ethyl acetate fraction showed oustanding antimicrobial activity as of methyl paraben, a well known chemical preservative. In conclusion, these results suggest that E. prostrata can be used as natural skin protectant or preservative as natural ingredient in food or cosmetics industry.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.45 no.4
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• pp.399-408
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• 2019

Arbutin, which is used as a whitening ingredient, can produce hydroquinone, known as causing skin disease and carcinogen. Preservatives are essential to prevent microbial contamination during long-term storage and use of cosmetics, but safety issues such as toxicity and skin irritation are being raised. This study was conducted to determine hydroquinone and 21 preservatives levels in 40 arbutin-containing whitening functional cosmetics sold on-line and off-line. Result showed that 9 products contained hydroquinone. The concentrations in 7 products were ranged from 0.3 to 0.9 ppm, which were within the maximum allowed amount established by the Ministry of Food and Drug Safety. However, 2 products were 8.4 and 50.5 ppm and exceeded the allowed amount. Preservatives were detected 20 products. Detected items and ranges were phenoxy ethanol 0.1 ~ 0.7% (N = 15), Methyl paraben 0.19 ~ 0.21% (N = 2), Chlorphenesin 0.13% (N = 1), chlorhexidine 0.006% (N = 1), Propyl paraben 0.06% (N = 1), which were within maximum allowed amount established by the Ministry of Food and Drug Safety. Also, in cases of functional cosmetics the phrase "functional cosmetics" should be expressed on the primary or secondary package of cosmetics by cosmetics act. However, 1 product did not state the phrase as functional cosmetics. This study suggest that preservatives were safely managed. However, hydroquinone in hydroquinone-detected products could be produced by the decomposition of arbutin. Thus, further studies on the decomposition of arbutin are required to improve the quality control of the cosmetics.

• Microbiology and Biotechnology Letters
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• v.41 no.3
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• pp.284-291
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• 2013

In this study, the antibacterial and antioxidative activities of Epimedium koreanum Nakai were investigated for applications as cosmetic ingredients. Minimum inhibitory concentrations (MICs) of fraction-bacterium, that showed high antibacterial activity from disc diffusion assay on human skin pathogens, were tested. The ethyl acetate fraction on Staphylococcus aureus, Bacillus subtilis, Propionibacterium acnes and 50% ethanol extract on S. aureus exhibited higher antibacterial activities than methyl paraben, well known as a preservative. The DPPH (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl) scavenging activities of 3 fractions of E. koreanum Nakai were lower than (+)-${\alpha}$-tocopherol, known as a typical antioxidant. From the results of the scavenging activities of various ROS generated in $Fe^{3+}-EDTA/H_2O_2$ systems ($OSC_{50}$), 50% ethanol extract ($OSC_{50}=2.46{\pm}0.06{\mu}g/ml$) and aglycone fraction ($OSC_{50}=1.45{\pm}0.02{\mu}g/ml$) showed high activities similar to L-ascorbic acid ($OSC_{50}=1.50{\pm}0.85{\mu}g/ml$), used as reference. The cellular protective effects (${\tau}_{50}$) on photohemolysis by $^1O_2$ generated by photosensitization reaction were tested. The cellular protective effect of 50% ethanol extract (${\tau}_{50}=37.0{\pm}0.3$ min) was similar to (+)-${\alpha}$-tocopherol (${\tau}_{50}=38.0{\pm}1.8$ min), used as reference. In particular, the ${\tau}_{50}$ of aglycone fraction results were $165.9{\pm}7.2$ min. This is a high cellular protective effect, more than 4 times that of (+)-${\alpha}$-tocopherol. These results indicate that E. koreanum Nakai extract, and its fractions, could be utilized as a cosmetic ingredient possessing antibacterial and antioxidative activities.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.33 no.2
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• pp.111-115
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• 2007

It is inevitable to use germicidal agents like parabens, imidazolidinyl urea, phenoxyethanol and chlorphenesin to preserve the cosmetics. Although effective in reducing microblological contamination, chemical preservatives are irritative, allergenic and even toxic to human skin. So it is needed to decrease or eliminate usage of preservatives in cosmetic products Glycerin, butylene glycol (BG), prorylene glycol (PG), and dipropylene glycol (DPG) are widely used in cosmetics as skin conditioning agent or solvents. At high concentrations, they have antimicrobial activities, but deteriorate product quality like sensory feeling or safety. The purpose of study is to evaluate the effects of polyols on antimicrobial and preservative efficacy and confirm whether using adjusted polyols can decrease the contents of preservatives without deterioration of the quality of cosmetics. Effects of common polyols on antimicrobial activities of general preservatives were measured. BG and PG significantly (p < 0.05) increased activities of preservatives, but glycerin influenced little. It was inferred from the regression analysis of the results with S. aureus that adding 1% of PG increased activities of preservatives up to $2.1{\sim}8.4 %$ and BG improved activities of preservatives up to $1.8{\sim}8.4 %$. The challenge test results for oil in water lotions and creams showed that BG and PG improved the efficacy of preservative systems up to 40 % at a range of $5.5{\sim}9.9 %$, but glycerin had little effect on it. The measured rates of improvement were analogous to the inferences from regression analysis. It can be concluded that is possible to reduce total chemical preservatives up to 40 %, consequently improve the safety and sensory quality of cosmetics with the precision control of polyols. Added to that, using this paradigm, low preservative contents, praraben-free system, and even preservative-free systems can be expected in the near future.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.44 no.4
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• pp.407-417
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• 2018

In this study, the antioxidant, cytoprotective and antimicrobial activities of 50% ethanol extract of Polygoni multiflori Radix (PMR) and its ethyl acetate fraction were evaluated to confirm the applicability as a functional ingredient. The activities of the major constituent of PMR were verified and 2, 3, 5, 4′-tetrahydroxystilbene 2-O-${\beta}$-D-glucoside (THSG) was confirmed to be the main component of extract and fraction using HPLC-DAD, LC-EIS-MS analysis. The phenolic and THSG contents of the ethyl acetate fraction were 11.1- and 3.0-folds higher than those of the ethanol extract, respectively. As a result of the DPPH assay and that of luminol dependent chemiluminescence assay in $Fe^{3+}$-EDTA/H2O2 system. the ethylacetate fraction was superior to the ethanol extract in free radical and ROS scavenging activities. Especially, the ethyl acetate fraction and THSG exhibited the similar scavenging activity like L-ascorbic acid in ROS scavenging activity. The ethyl acetate fraction perceived the most potent cytoprotective effect against oxidative damage of erythrocytes induced by photosensitization reaction, followed by the ethanol fraction, THSG and that of (+)-${\alpha}$-tocopherol, which was used as a positive control. Antimicrobial activities were evaluated by disc diffusion and broth microdilution assay against S. aureus, E. coli, P. aeruginosa and C. albicans. In particular, the antibacterial activity of the extract and fraction against S. aureus was superior to that of methyl paraben. Taken together, our results suggest that PMR could be used as a natural ingredient for antioxidant, cytoprotective and antimicrobial activities.

• Applied Chemistry for Engineering
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• v.29 no.6
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• pp.772-781
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• 2018

In this study, we investigated antioxidant, antimicrobial and cytoprotective effects of 50% ethanol extract and ethyl acetate fraction from rhizomes of Belamcanda chinensis (L.) DC. 1,1-Diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) free radical scavenging activities ($FSC_{50}$) of the 50% ethanol extract and ethyl acetate fraction were 621.5 and $253.0{\mu}g/mL$, respectively. Total antioxidant capacities ($OSC_{50}$) of the extract and fraction were 13.6 and $3.0{\mu}g/mL$, respectively. Minimum inhibitory concentrations (MIC) of the ethyl acetate fraction for Staphylococcus aureus and Candida albicans were 156, $1,250{\mu}g/mL$, respectively, indicating similar or higher levels of those of using methyl paraben. Cytoprotective effects of the 50% ethanol extract against $^1O_2$-induced cellular damage (${\tau}_{50}$) showed in a dose dependent manner at 4 to $64{\mu}g/mL$. ${\tau}_{50}$ of the 50% ethanol extract, ethyl acetate fraction and (+)-${\alpha}$-tocopherol at $16{\mu}g/mL$ were 36.4, 45.0 and 45.8 min respectively, and the ethyl acetate fraction showed cytoprotective effects similar to (+)-${\alpha}$-tocopherol. In ultraviolet B radiation-induced HaCaT cell damage, the ethyl acetate fraction decreased intracellular reactive oxygen species (ROS) up to 45.9% at $8{\mu}g/mL$. Also in $H_2O_2$-induced HaCaT cell damage, the ethyl acetate fraction significantly increased the cell viability at $0.5{\sim}8.0{\mu}g/mL$. As a result of chemical analyses of the ethyl acetate fraction, the presence of flavonoids and polyphenol such as irisflorentin, irigenin, tectorigenin, resveratrol, iridin and tectoridin were identified. In conclusion, the extract/fraction from rhizomes of B. chinensis can be applied as a natural antioxidant and antimicrobial material to cosmetics.