• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.35 no.9
• /
• pp.1125-1137
• /
• 2011

This study investigates when and why the light pink Dan-ryoung appeared as part of the official uniform of the Joseon Dynasty and which official uniform used the light pink color. The Annals of the Joseon Dynasty, books written by scholars, and related laws were used as research materials. The following results were obtained by analyzing the arguments of kings and officials on light pink uniforms and laws related to official uniforms. 1. Red was the color of the king as well as the color of Dang-sang-gwan's Gong-bok (one of the official uniforms). 2. The colors such as To-hong, Dam-hong, Do-hong, Bun-hong, Cheon-hong that appeared in Sang-bok (among official uniforms) were relatively lighter than red. 3. To-hong started to be used in Sang-bok at the time of King Se-jong and was used at the time of King Seong-jong in Sang-bok because it was the preferred color. 4. In the Joseon Dynasty, safflower (the basis of red color dye) was cultivated extensively; in addition, people liked red dyeing because it was relatively easy apply; subsequently, a ban on red dyeing was continually issued. 5. Kings Se-jong and Jung-jong ordered officials to use Do-hong and Bun-hong to distinguish the red color of the king. After Im-jin-oe-ran, Cheon-hong was officially designated the color of Sang-bok. 6. The reasons why Dam-hong was used in official uniforms were twofold: the preference for red-like colors and the influence of the Confucian hierarchy to distinguish the king.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.61 no.10
• /
• pp.135-150
• /
• 2011

The ranking belts for Joseon dynasty officials that are based on references and relics are studied in this paper in terms of architecture, detailed names, and structural changes according to different time. Officials' uniforms consist of hats, clothes, belts, and shoes. Among these, the belt is an important sign that represents the wearer's ranking. The ranking belts of the Joseon dynasty which were brought from Ming at the late stage of the Koryo dynasty became classified as the following four classes : Seo-dai(a rhinoceros' horn, 犀帶), Gum-dai(gold, 金帶), Eun-dai(silver, 銀帶), and Heug-gag-dai(black horn, 黑角帶). A ranking belt consists of a basic belt body and a plaque that represents the wearer's rank. A plaque consists of 20 plates: three front-center plates that represent the Sam-tai(三台) constellation, six front-side plates that represent the Namduyug constellation(南斗六星), seven back plates that represent the Big Dipper(北斗七星), left side Bo(輔), right side Pil(弼), and a couple of Tamie at both ends. The architecture of the belt body; the basic frame for ranking belts, shows some differences between the former and the latter periods of the Joseon dynasty. In the former period, the belt had a pair of a buckle so that the wearers were able to adjust the belt size. But later, the belt didn't have the buckles to adjust the belt size and consequently it only performed a locking or unlocking function. Therefore, the belts in the latter period were longer than normal and one size fit all. In addition to the functional change of buckles, the shapes of the ranking belts show changes from the round shape to the square shape as time goes on.

• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
• /
• 2003.10a
• /
• pp.35-35
• /
• 2003

During the reign of King Kwangjong(光宗) in Goryeo(高麗) there was specific purpose to decide that the government officials should have worn their uniforms in four colors. The main purpose had been to establish new bureaucracy around royal authority. Therefore, it is necessary to analyze four coloured official uniform regulation(四色公服制) concerning the bureaucracy at the time.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.50 no.6
• /
• pp.127-142
• /
• 2000

The names of Chinese Po corresponding to Korean Jikryung are Yesal and Jikshin. Thus the purpose of this paper is to review of the shapes and usage of Yesal and Jikshin and then make a comparative review between the twos and Jikryung having side Moo. Results of the study are described as follows : 1. The Chinese costume, Yesal is translated literally into Korean, Euisal or Euisal Jikryung and called Euisal Diknyung or Uisakot in Korean while Jikshin is translated into Korean, Jikryung and called Diknyung. 2. Yesal is a new type of clothing as created during the Ming period. The costume is the remnant type of Yosunoja and Byunsunoja in the periods of Sung and Yuan. Types of Yesal are classified into two, or one whose rear part's upper and lower areas are connected with each other and whose front part's upper and lower areas are net, the other in which those upper and lower areas are disconnected both in front and rear parts. 3. Types of Jikshin are classified into two, one having Pa and the other having loot. The latter is re-classified into two, one whose sleeve is large and wide, the whole length of which is long and which was usually worn by Sain, and the other whose sleeve is small and narrow, the whole length of which is short and which was by the grass root. 4. Yesal and Jikryung both having Pa have the almost same shapes except their front parts. Baerae of the former is more curved than that of the latter. Also the both were used as official uniforms worn by civil and military officials from higher to lower levels. 5. Jikshin and Jikryung both having Pa have the same shapes. Baerae of the former is more curved than that of the latter. The both were used as official uniforms worn by civil and military officials under a King and as casual costumes by Sadaeboo. In terms of color, Jikshin and Jikryung both employed red, blue and green, Especially the red color was favorably used both in China and Chosen at that time.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.15 no.1
• /
• pp.139-153
• /
• 2013

The purpose of this study was to consider the kinds and features of costume and fabrics of the early Koryo period which are mentioned in the records of costume system, royal presents and diplomatic articles at that time ranging from the reigns of king Gwangjong to king Gyeongjong and to king Seongjong. Findings of the study can be summarized as follows. In the 11th year of king Gwangjong's reign, the official costume system was established, which reflected the royal will to independence as an imperial nation. That system also became the basis of the official wage system in king Gyeongjong's reign. In the reigns of king Gwangjong and king Gyeongjong, the monarch granted official uniforms to persons who passed the state examination, directly connecting with new bureaucrats and strengthening the royal authority. Those uniforms were usually worn at a banquet where the monarch and subjects participate together in the early Koryo period. In the reign of king Seongjong, costume and fabrics were positive means of realizing political Confucianism as they were used for bureaucrats who advanced to official position through the state examination. Records issued at that time explain that the monarch presented costume and fabrics in an effort to getting along with officials and civilians of different classes as the state and the royal authority stabilized. Found in the records released in the reigns of king Gwangjong to king Seongjong, the kinds of costume or fabrics at that time include jikseongeuio, gap, yongeui, seupeui, gyegeum baekcheop, geumeunseon gyegeumpoyok and po. The techniques of manufacturing armors in the early Koryo period were probably advanced since the item was a craftwork presented to the court in the reigns of kings Gwangjong and Gyeongjong. Presumedly, baekcheop was a kind of hemp and po. Koryo's native hemp cloth.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.53 no.3
• /
• pp.121-135
• /
• 2003

This paper is about the dress styles during the 16th century of the Chosun dynasty, just before the Japanese Invasion of Korea in 1592, through painting-Kiyeonghoido. In the Chosun period, dress styles played an important role in representing the differences in social status. The most remarkable signs of social standing are the hair ornaments. Officials in ranks, noksas, and seoris are wearing a same, a yugakpyeongjeongeon and a mugakpyeongjeongeon respectively. The head ornament for musicians in high ranks is a samo, and, for those in low ranks a hood or a heuklip. Accordingly, head ornaments were important articles among apparels, and especially ripja was an article that sensitively reflected the contemporary fashion. Such a trend also influenced the common people's styles of dress. Thus, the style of the heuklip worn by the chamberlain in Kiyeonghoido resembled of yangban's. Actual official uniforms also diverged from the specifications for them. Sangboks were red for both dangsanggwans and danghagwans, but their ranks were marked by the material of their dress rather than by the breast plates. Dress styles change over time as the society members influence and are influenced by each other. Therefore, owing to the social characteristics of a hierarchical society, dress styles are distinctive according to the wearers' social standings and roles, and various dress styles emerge that deviate from regulations. The significance of the present paper is to review the diversity of the dress styles during the 16th century of the Chosun dynasty.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
• /
• v.54 no.2
• /
• pp.78-97
• /
• 2021

Seojangdaeyajodo is a drawing of military night training on February 12th (lunar leap month), 1795. Focusing on the Seojangdaeyajodo, the characteristics and of the costumes worn by various types of officials were examined. There were 34 officials located near King Jeongjo in and around Seojangdae, with 27 Dangsanggwan and 7 Danghagwan. They wore three types of costumes, including armor, yungbok, and military uniforms. All of the twelve armor wearers and the five officials wearing yungbok were dangsanggwan, and the military uniform wearers included eleven dangsanggwan and six danghagwan. For the shape of the armor, the armor relics of General Yeoban, suitable for riding horses, and the armor painting of Muyedobotongji were referenced, and the composition of the armor was based on practicality. The armor consists of a helmet, a suit of armor, a neck guard, armpit guards, arm guards, and a crotch guard. The color of the armor was red and green, which are the most frequently used colors in Seojangdaeyajodo. The composition of yungbok was jurip, navy cheollik, red gwangdahoe, socks made of leather, and suhwaja. The composition of the military uniform was a lined jeolrip, dongdari, jeonbok, yodae, jeondae, and suhwaja. There were differences in the fabrics used in dangsanggwan and danghagwan military uniforms. Dangsanggwan used fabric with depictions of clouds and jewels, and danghagwan used unpatterned fabric. Moreover, jade, gold, and silver were used for detailed ornamental materials in dangsanggwan. The weapons included bows and a bow case, a sword, a rattan stick, wrist straps, and a ggakji. In the records of the King Jeongjo period, various colored heopsu were mentioned; the colors of the dongdari and jeonbok of dangsanggwan and danghagwan were referenced in various colors. It was presented as an illustration of costumes that could be used to produce objects accurately reflecting the above historical results. The basic principle of the illustration was to present the modeling standards for 3D content production. Samples of form, color, and material of the corresponding times and statuses were presented. The front, the side, and the back of each costume and its accessories were presented, and the colors were presented in RGB and CMYK.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.64 no.1
• /
• pp.45-63
• /
• 2014

In the Taenghwa(Buddhist paintings), the clothing habits of the times can be observed since it depicts the lives of people from all walks of life. These 16th century Taenghwas were drawn based on the understanding of the ritual costumes of early Joseon dynasty appearing in works such as oryeui Se-jong-sil-lok; Sejong chronicles and Gyong-guk-Dae-jon. It shows the perception of various types of clothing such as the Myeon-Bok(King's Full Dress), Won-yu-gwan-bok(King's Ceremonial Dress), and Gon-ryong-po(royal robe at work), and describes the early King's Won-yu-gwan-bok in the early Joseon dynasty that equips Bang-sim-gok-ryong(Round Neck Band). Various officials' uniforms and various men's coats are described. From it, one can visually verify the records of Joong-jong-sil-lok; Joongjong chronicles that describes the appearances of various hats and coats. They also tell us that Chang-ot(light outer coat) was worn prior to the 17th century. It also shows us that the ritual costume of women in Koryo was passed down to early Joseon. Also, in regards to the Buddhist priest costumes, the jang-sam's gray color and ga-sa's red color has been passed down until today. The most representative characteristic for clothing materials were horsehair, silk, ramie, hemp, and cotton.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.53 no.4
• /
• pp.163-176
• /
• 2003

Waist lined Coat with Pleats excavated from Byun-su(1447-1524) Tomb in Yangpyeong were very similar in size to the costume of Haeina Temple which is the oldest YosunChollik up to now YosunChollik was popularly worn in the Yuan Dynasty of China(원) and it is presumed to be flown into Korea in that period. In China, the coat with a straight collar was called ByeonseonOh , and one with a round collar was called ByeonseonOhja in the Yuan Dynasty. The excavated relics of Haeinsa Temple are almost same as ByeonseonOh. In the Myoung Dynasty(명), the coat with a straight collar was called YoseonOhja, and one with a round collar was called Round collar YoseonOhja . The Waist lined Coat with Pleats excavated in the Byunsu Tomb is same as YoseonOhja Attendants who is low in position and doctors used to wear the coat, which was spread to diverse classes by degrees. Later, even emperors and high ranking officials used to wear it as military uniforms. It was made of silk and summer cloth. As mentioned above, 1 examined its history carefully through Chinese documents and photographic materials on relics. In addition, with the authentic records of Korea and the excavated relics of the Byun-su Tomb, 1 analyzed its components. However, the analysis was very restricted because the relics to be compared with were few.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
• /
• v.52 no.3
• /
• pp.200-221
• /
• 2019

The National Hangeul Museum houses a document list of the wedding gifts that Queen Sunwon granted her royal son-in-law, Nam Nyeong-wie, in August 1837. A total of 55 items were recorded in Hangeul Gungseo style on yellow paper. This list included four types of government officials' uniforms, casual wear, accessories, etc. The results of studying the 19th-century male officials' uniforms through this historic record were as follows. The clothing record in the List of Wedding Gifts was more accurate than that in the Dukongongju Garyedeungrok. The four types of government official uniforms for Nam Nyeong-wie included jeobok, sangbok, sibok, and gongbok. For the joebok, there was geumkwan, daehong-hangrah joebok, baeksam, ahole, seodae, gakpae, peseul, paeok, husu, and mokhwa. The record of the List confirms that baeksam was used as jungdan for joebok. For the gongbok, there was daehong-hangrah gongbok, blue seolhancho duhgre, blue saenggyeonggwangju changui, and green waehangrah kurimae. The record of the List shows that the lining of the gongbok was duhgre, and confirms, for the first time, that changui and kurimae were worn inside the gongbok. For the sangbok, there was samo, ssanghakhyungbae embroidered with golden thread, dark green cloud patterned gapsa gwandae, blue cloud patterned gapsa duhgre, blue ssangmuncho changui, and Chinese purple hwamunsa kurimae. For the sibok, there was pink gwangsa gwandae, and blue gwangcho duhgre. For the lining, blue duhgre was used. Lastly, the fabrics used for those costumes were all suitable for the climate in August.