• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.8 s.108
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• pp.60-73
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• 2006

This study analyzes the Baekche official costume system, including the dress, cap and belt systems, by relating documentary records with the results of excavations. The study shows that the system differed depending on the time. A system of dress based on official ranks was instituted during the region of King Goi in the third century. The rap amd belt systems were begun in the first half of sixth century The official costume system, as recorded in the Chinese history $Sus{\u{o}}$, included many subdivisions of cap colors, which followed belt colors. According to $Gudangs{\u{o}}$, dress and cap systems changed in the seventh century. The official costume consisted of a $jacket(j{\u{o}}gori)$, trousers(baji), and coat(po). The coat had wide sleeves and reached below knees. Its collar had straight neckline. Officials of all rank wore silk caps and belts of matching colors. Officials above sixth rank used silver flower decorations on their caps. Officials wore wide-crouch trousers and generally adjusted the hems of the trousers, but this practice stopped in the sixth century. Officials wore shoes or boots depending on occasion. From a historical viewpoint, Baekche is important for having been the first Korean kingdom to establish a government organization. The salient feature of the system of organization established in A.D. 260(the twenty-seventh year of the region of King Goi) was the application of different colors to identify different ranks.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.4
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• pp.103-116
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to investigate the revision of the western-styled court costume in the Daehan Empire. For this purpose, 1) historical documents were reviewed, 2) one set of the court costume of Chigimgwan and another set of the court costume of Juimgwan were probed, 3) the photos of people wearing court costume were analyzed. The results of this study are as follows. First, the $14^{th}$ Imperial order of "official costume statute" had been revised in 1904, 1905 and 1907 through official gazettes. The last version of official costume statute enacted the more detail than the first rule. Second, the $15^{th}$ Imperial order of "official costume rules" had been revised in 1904, 1905, and transformed into official costume rules reform on $12^{th}$ Dec., 1906. The revision in 1905 made gold embroidery of court costume more simple than the first rule. The form of court costume was totally revised by change of the shape of adjusting on the top in the revised rule of 1906. Third, the revision in 1905 was actually manufactured and worn by the people because it can be confirmed in the relics of the court costume of $2^{nd}$ Chigimgwan in Yonsei University Museum, and the court costume of juimgwan in Kwangju Municipal Folk Museum. The relics made by the revision in 1906 had not been reported until now, but they can be confirmed in the photos left. Fourth, the sovereignity of the Daehan Empire was actually lost by $22^{th}$ Imperial family order which urged the servant having the title of nobility of Japan to wear the court costume of Japan. Therefore, the endeavor of the Daehan Empire which wanted to establish and develop the costume system of modern independent nation was discontinued.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.21 no.3
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• pp.621-631
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• 1997

This study aims to analyze Sungkyunkwan Students' uniform during Chosen dynasty through literature and paintings. Confucian scholar's coshime of Chosen dynasty was said to imitate that of Chinese counterpart's. The first Confucian scholars costume, which was officially instituded during King Taeiong's reign, was a Yugon worn on the head and a Chongkeum (blue collar). But Chinese Gukjagam students'uniform in the early Ming years was a Nansam and later became a blue Wonryong which reflected the changes in the Ming Period. Though Chosun's Chongkeum was the official Confucian scholar's costume on record, it was not worn widely. Corfucian scholars rather wore a red Jikryong or a white coat up to the mid-Chosun dynasty, and in the late Chosen period, a black Danryong or a red Danryong were more popular for Confucian scholars. Because the official Confucian scholar's uniform Chongkeum was not used widely and other costumes were worn more popularly, various attempts had been made to adopt the Nansam, like that of Ming's, as the official Costume scholar's uniform from King Snio to King Youngio. Finally, King Youngjo decided to adopt the Nansam as the official costume for those who passed the civil service examination, ending the controversies concerning an official costume. We cannot find the Nansam and the Aengsam of the late Chosen period from the paintings either. This conirms that Aengsam was the costume which originated from the late Chosun period. The term "Chongkeum" was used either to imply "Confucian scholar' or to indicate various 'Confucian scholar's costume rather than its original meaning of blue collar.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.15 no.1
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• pp.139-153
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• 2013

The purpose of this study was to consider the kinds and features of costume and fabrics of the early Koryo period which are mentioned in the records of costume system, royal presents and diplomatic articles at that time ranging from the reigns of king Gwangjong to king Gyeongjong and to king Seongjong. Findings of the study can be summarized as follows. In the 11th year of king Gwangjong's reign, the official costume system was established, which reflected the royal will to independence as an imperial nation. That system also became the basis of the official wage system in king Gyeongjong's reign. In the reigns of king Gwangjong and king Gyeongjong, the monarch granted official uniforms to persons who passed the state examination, directly connecting with new bureaucrats and strengthening the royal authority. Those uniforms were usually worn at a banquet where the monarch and subjects participate together in the early Koryo period. In the reign of king Seongjong, costume and fabrics were positive means of realizing political Confucianism as they were used for bureaucrats who advanced to official position through the state examination. Records issued at that time explain that the monarch presented costume and fabrics in an effort to getting along with officials and civilians of different classes as the state and the royal authority stabilized. Found in the records released in the reigns of king Gwangjong to king Seongjong, the kinds of costume or fabrics at that time include jikseongeuio, gap, yongeui, seupeui, gyegeum baekcheop, geumeunseon gyegeumpoyok and po. The techniques of manufacturing armors in the early Koryo period were probably advanced since the item was a craftwork presented to the court in the reigns of kings Gwangjong and Gyeongjong. Presumedly, baekcheop was a kind of hemp and po. Koryo's native hemp cloth.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.5
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• pp.59-70
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• 2004

Tea has influenced the basis of Korean culture in history for a long time. The dissertation aims to establish the history of the costumes for the tea ceremony based upon historical data. During Thee Kingdom Period. there was a ceremony called Tea Offering Ceremony In Silla times, there were Tea Offering Ceremony and Royal Shrine Tea Ceremony: In Corea age, they served Tea Presenting Ceremony: In Chosun age. tea ceremony was a part of Tea Presenting and was held during official greeting feasts for foreign envoys and during feast ceremonies at the court. The costumes for the tea ceremony by period are as fellows : In Corea times, king and all the government officials wore official court attire for Enthronement Ceremony (Ka-Rye). For Official Guest Reception Ceremony (Bin-Rye), king wore official costume, but in case the envoy was not carrying an Official King＇s Letter, king wore Ordinary Costume. In Chosun times, both king and prince crown wore ordinary costumes of winged silk crowns and royal robes (with golden dragon patterned segment) for Envoy Reception Tea Ceremony. In time of royal feast ceremony, king and prince crown wore ordinary costumes of winged silk crowns and royal robes, while queen wore red purple silk robe (red purple embroidered segment). Chosun＇s royal court occasionally held tea ceremonyat royal feast ceremonies during which king also wore ordinary costume of winged silk crown and royal robe as a costume to attract good fortunes. In case of ceremonies for bad occasions, a tea ceremony was included in Royal Inquisition procedures (joong-hyung-ju-dae-eui) during which king wore simple costume (Pyun-Bok).

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.82-99
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• 1999

The purpose of this study was to investigate the traditional costume colors in ancient Korea. The results of this study can be summarized follows : The traditional costume colors in ancient Korea was affected on Chineses goverment official\`s costume colors, specially in Tongil Silla Dynasty. Goverment official\`s costume colors were purple(紫), red(赤), yeoolw(黃), blue(靑). The traditional Korean colors for clothes were devided in the white costume for low class and the colored costume of high class. The traditional Korean colors for colthes became fixed in the later Chosun dynasty, According to developing of dyeing technic, the prohibition of red costume for low class made for wear red undercloth. And on account of costume color in sumptuary law occured the transition of costume color. As transition of costume color, yellow(黃) changed in light in light yellow(松花色), purple(紫) did in dark green purple(茶割) Also it was found that the traditional Korean color for clothes was many kinds of soft, deep, natural colors out of red(紫)·yellow(黃)·white(白)·black(黑)·blue(靑).

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.6 no.5
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• pp.565-574
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to investigate the historical background and basic composition of costume of the Baekje period. Main official hats of Baekje include the transformed hat, jougwan and daeryun-style ipsikgwan. Daeryun-style ipsikgwan employed chowha shape in most cases, symbolizing good auspice under the harmony of the male and female principles. Main types of costume of the Baekje period are po, yu, go and sang. The king, governmental officials and the common people all put on po of jikryeong gyoim style. Yu' is classified into two styles, chaksu with the narrow sleeve and daesu with the broad one. 'Go' has two styles, gunggo and gwango. The former is narrow in the breadth of the trouser and the latter, wide. 'Sang' is classified into various style according to whether it contains stripes of many colors, thin wrinkles or thick wrinkles. For the decoration of official hat used in the period of the Three Kingdoms, Baekje employed chowha in shape, Kokuryo, chowha and joik and Shilla, joik. In Baekje, rhythmic patterns of flame were applied to official hats, presenting brilliance. In Shilla, shaking geumyeongrak was used for official hats to show movement. In Kokuryo, such hats used flapping feathers, symbolizing dynamic power. Most necklaces and bracelets of the Baekje period were simple and plain.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.2 s.111
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• pp.59-68
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• 2007

It seems that Balhae(渤海) had built up its national power through the international relationship from the early years of an establishment of a dynasty. And the envoys that were sent with the official duties dressed up the official uniform for a diplomatic courtesy. Accordingly, this study will be considered about the official uniform in the early years of the Balhae era. The system of the official uniform of Balhae was classified into two form as the starting from $739\sim742$ A.D. The official uniform of the early years of the Balhae($698\sim739$ A.D.) was based on the costume of the three Kingdoms[三國時代], that is, Yu, Go(待), Jo-u-gwan(鳥羽冠). These results were available owing to the reasons that the Balhaehad succeeded the culture of Go-gu-ryo(高句麗), which was the basis for the development of Parhae's own culture, and the most of the governing group and the ruling class in Balhaewere the drifting people from Go-gu-ryo. After that, which the 3th King Mun(文王), acrepted the Tang's culture positively, assumed the reins of government ascended the throne and the brisk exchange with Tang(唐) by the envoys and Suk-wui(宿衛) were dispatched to Tang, the official uniform of the Balhaewas transformed into the system of Tang. This system was similar to that of Tang in point of using a four colors and the items as Danryeong(團領), Bokdu.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.34
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• pp.57-66
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• 1997

This thesis is mainly on the study of Gongbok(official dress) and Sangbok (usual dress) in the system of official o-utfit of the Song dynasty. The Song dynasty has not left many historical remains due to the vicious cycle of intermittent internal disturbance and several outside invasions. According to the records of the Song dynasty which identified official dress with usual dress saying "the official dress of every government officers is his usual dress" this thesis is concentrated on the study of official dress and usual dress among many different types of official outfit. In the Song dynasty had survived until the year of 1123 from the year of 960 us-ing the four colour system of purple chi-nese red green and blue. The four colour system of purple deep red. green and black of official outfit of the Song dy-nasty the first year of Wonpung's regin and wearing Eodae(fish sack)is a sure sign of influence of the system of the Song dynasty.g dynasty.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.1
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• pp.17-34
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• 2003

This paper investigates the rank system of official uniforms of Qing dynasty to analyze ethnic characteristics of the official uniforms. As a research document, Qing Huidian Tu(청회전도) has been used. The official uniforms of Qing dynasty were chao-fu(조복), ji-fu(길복), chang-fu(상복), hang-fu(행복), and yu-fu(우복), which were used in different occasions. Each of the five official uniforms had distinct items. For example, chao-fu(조복) consisted of four items: chao-guan(조관), chao-fu(조복), chao-dai(조대), and chao-zhu(조주), and ji-fu(길복) consisted of four items: ji-fu-guan(길복관), long-pao(용포), ji-fu-dai(길복대), and chao-zhu(조주). Each of these items had elements that made distinction between ranks. This research shows that the important elements to make distinction between ranks were textiles, precious stones, patterns and colors, and additionally the number of Bo(보) and the types of Bo(보) were used.