• Title/Summary/Keyword: New century

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Study of design of kimono sleeve - Focused on the design characteristics of the kimono that appeared in 20th-century fashion - (기모노 슬리브 디자인 연구 - 20세기 패션에 나타난 기모노 슬리브의 디자인적 특성을 중심으로 -)

  • Kwon, Soon Kyo;Park, Sun Kyung
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.23 no.4
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    • pp.595-603
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    • 2015
  • The influence of Japonism, which is the post-mid-$19^{th}$ century phenomenon of appreciating and preferring the Japanese style that manifested all across Western art, started to grow as a result of the active open-door policy of Japan at this time. As all areas of Japanese arts and culture, such as paintings, sculptures and theater plays, influenced Europe and America, this influence developed into a cultural phenomenon that was reflected even in fashion. The characteristic elements of the kimono first expanded from Paris and showed a similar silhouette to that of the traditional kimono in the early $20^{th}$ century, but towards the middle and the end of the century, kimono sleeves that were connected as one piece without a connecting seam line between the sleeve and bodice started to appear. The foundation of this research focuses on the design characteristics of kimono sleeves that can be seen in $20^{th}$-century fashion, and five varying kimono sleeve jackets and coats based on these formative characteristics were designed. Each design had a gusset design added, which improved the external and mobility problems inherent in kimono sleeve patterns, while at the same time serving as a proposal for new design element applications. Additionally, through various changes to and attempts at designs using the kimono sleeve as a limiting factor, new design possibilities were explored.

Global Warming Detected by Tree Rings from Mongolia

  • Nachin, Baatarbileg;Jacoby, Gordon C.
    • The Korean Journal of Quaternary Research
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    • v.17 no.2
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    • pp.55-61
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    • 2003
  • In the year 2000 we culminated a successful five year investigation of climate change by completing a preliminary east-west transect across Mongolia. An earlier tree-ring study at Tarvagatay Pass, Mongolia indicated unusual warming during the 20th century similar to other paleo-investigations of the northern hemisphere. This record had represented one of the few tree-ring records for central Asia. New data from several sites in western Mongolia confirmed the preliminary temperature. The highest twenty-year growth period for the composite record is from 1973-1994. The western Mongolian record was significantly correlated with the Taimyr Peninsula and two northern hemisphere temperature reconstructions reflecting large-scale temperature patterns while showing some important regional differences. These differences should prove useful for climate models. We have also developed a millennial length temperature-sensitive record at the Solongotyin Davaa site (formerly Tarvagatay Pass) using relict wood and living trees. Conspicuous features over the last 1000 years are a century scale temperature decline punctuated by the end of the Little Ice Age in the late-1800s and 20th century warming. The record also shows a cold period early in the 12th century and warm intervals late in the 10th, early in the 15th and at end of the 18th centuries. Despite a limited sample size before 900 AD, the long Solongotyin Davaa record is useful in indicating severe cold events and suggests some cold intervals nearly as severe. These tree ring series, spanning much of the circumpolar northern treeline, have been compiled to create a long-term reconstruction of the Earth's temperature over centuries. The new chronology, in addition to its value as a detailed record of Mongolian climate, provides independent corroboration for such hemispheric and global reconstructions and their indications of unusual warming during the 20th century.

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The Influences of Salon Culture on Fashion from the 17th to 18th Century (17~18세기 살롱(Salon) 문화가 패션에 미친 영향)

  • 김은하;정흥숙;김선화
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.52 no.8
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    • pp.123-135
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    • 2002
  • The purposes of this study were to observe the influences of Salon culture on fashion, and to understand of 17th-l8th century's costume from a different point of view. The literatures about Salons and costume in 17th-l8th century were considered for this study Salon culture had influenced on women's and men's fashion from 17th 18th century as results. The influences of salon culture on fashion were as follows; At first, it caused radical feminism for women's dress. Women for this period chose their dress to maximize their breast and tight their waist radically to express their beauty. Women were realized as sexual being for the period, then, this caused feminism. The second influence was the Andorgynous of men's dress. Men maximized beautiful decoration, body line on their dress and showed feminine dress style. which caused Andorgynous of men's dress as men and women mutually created new beauty effect. Salon had influences on the birth of new feminine culture and fashion, supplying individual self-control and freedom to women not as aesthetic objects.

Characteristic Analysis and Dating Guidance of European High Heeled Shoes Design in the 18th Century (18세기 하이힐 디자인의 특성 및 연대추정에 관한 연구)

  • Kim, Sun-Ah
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.10 no.2
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    • pp.128-137
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    • 2008
  • The purpose of this study is to investigate the characteristic analysis and to date guidance of European high heeled shoes in 18th century. The research was conducted by stylistic analysis of high heeled shoes from literature review and museums resource. 14 comparative study on shoe objects dating from 1600-1790 in the Museum at F.I.T., New York, Museum of Art, Boston and Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York were selected. The result of this study are as follows: (1) The origin and development of high heeled shoes were accomplished by protection, social status and exaggeration of body, decoration and fashion. (2) According to the comparative study of Museum objects and literature, characteristic analysis of high heeled shoes from 1700-20s, 1730-40s, 1750-60s, 1770-89 and 1890-1900 were accomplished. (3) Significant elements of European women's shoes from 18th century that aid dating are identified as the presence of white rand, shape of tongue, heel shape and height, latchat, toe shape, color and materials.

A Study on the Image of Film Fashion in 1990 Focused on Relation of Fashion and Film Industry (영상산업과 패션산업 연계의 시각에서 본 1990년대 영화의상의 이미지 연구)

  • 신경섭;박혜원
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.50 no.3
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    • pp.117-131
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    • 2000
  • The purpose of this study is for affirmation about fashion and film industry has very important relationship through the image of film fashion in 1990. To this processing , films in 1990 were analyzed by the back ground, time place, persons's status are expressed in period movie but the person's characters, development of story mood in contemporary movies. The contents of this study are as follows : First, film fashion which was related mass fashion design and concept development and fashion designers as constume services were considered. Second, the change of star image through the 20th century. The roles and new image of film fashion in period movies and contemporary movies in 1990 were searched. Third, proposal and results were confirmed for expansion of fashion industry and film industry together. Finally, from the latter of 20th century, a lot of fashion designers have participated in film works than before, So the images of films were sued and reflected as new mass trend . Especially retro-romantic mood was expressed in fashion trend due to period movie fashion. Also minimal city look and elegance glamourous look are represented cause of contemporary movie fashion. Therefore, the cooperation between film productions and fashion professionals is very important for promotion of Korean culture development in 21st century, 'the century of image'.

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'Healthy Japan 21' : A New Perspective on Health Promotion Policy for Japan in the 21st Century

  • Hasegawa, Toshihiko
    • Korean Journal of Health Education and Promotion
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    • v.22 no.3
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    • pp.135-155
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    • 2005
  • 'Healthy Japan 21' is a new health policy that has been proposed for the 21st century: it embodies a totally new concept for its viewpoints and methods. To start with, for its goal, the focus is placed on the 'quality of life' or a life that is free of diseases, rather than mere prolongation of life. For its doctrine, the emphasis has shifted dramatically from improving the health of the entire population(the traditional approach for health improvement) to 'achieving an ideal health status for each individual. The ultimate aged society that arrives first in Japan is a society in its ultimate form for human being. Why did Japan become westernized, giving up her traditional culture? Why did she go through industrialization, sacrificing her nature? And why does she try so hard to industrialize the developing countries? These efforts are all preparation for the arrival of a ultimate aged society. During the 20th century, we believed in unlimited possibilities and expanded our social frontier. In the 21st century, on the other hand, a super-aged society(the ultimate society), a glimpse of which we have witnessed from time to time, will descend on us sooner or later. It is expected to arrive first in Japan. 'Healthy Japan 21' is intended to prepare for the arrival of the hitherto unheard of super-aged society by building the physiological basis of people. This policy is social experimentation on an immense social scale, in which questions are posed on the understanding of health, the relationship between individuals and society, the relationship between administration and citizens, the manner by which central and local governments operate, and the new relationship between prevention and therapy, 'Healthy Japan 21' may be summarized as an experiment on a huge scale directed to the ultimate form of human society, in which Japan and each of her citizens play a role and set an example for the rest of the world. Even just by considering various approaches newly suggested for this venture, one may be convinced that it is a policy with features suitable for a country that has already achieved the world's highest longevity.

The Art Nouveau Fashion in Modern Fashioni Trend (세기말 유행경향으로 나타난 아르누보 패션)

  • 최유진;유영선
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.50 no.2
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    • pp.167-182
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    • 2000
  • The purpose of this study is to examine the art nouveau fashion represented in the end of the twentieth century. The characteristics of art nouveau are naturalism, medievalism , exoticism, and decadentism. The influences of art nouveau were seen in the fashion of the late nineteenth century : S-curve silhouette and organic curve motives printed on hems. Art nouveau has reappeared in modern fashion trends such as romanticism , decadence, ecology, ethno, and fusion. To sum up, art nouveau fashion at the end of the twentieth century is classified into four shapes. First, art nouveau appears in naturalism. Influenced by the arts and crafts movements and naturalistic trend, it has reappeared at the end of the twentieth century in themes like 'art & craft'. This expression technique is to objectively nature and to represented art nouveau textiles. Second, S-curve silhouette appeared at the end of nineteenth century's fashion with the art nouveau influenced rejection of the bustle style. At the end of the twentieth century, the design , emphasizing the hip, is represented in fashion collections as a phenomenon of romanticism . Especially the art nouveau silhouette of the end of the twentieth century does not represent S-curve silhouette. But , it emphasizes the hip only. Third, Art nouveau exoticism by symbolism is influenced by Chinese and Celtic art, the Middle Ages, and the exoticism that appeared in fashion at the end of the nineteenth century : harem style, kimono style, and turbans. Exoticism at the end of the twentieth century is expressed by optical flower prints and successive floral print arrangements as seen in the themes of ethno and fusion. Fourth, one of the characteristics of art nouveau, decadence is influenced by the pre-raphaelite brotherhood. This is expressed in the images of vampires, and symbolism expressing grotesque insect motives and decadent successive curves. At the end of the twentieth century decadence is represented in fashion ; grotesque insect motives, tatto looks of organic curve motives celtic hair style, see-through fashion, grotesque make-up . Besides hair style techniques, decadent expressions applying art nouveau paintings also appeared. Finally , art nouveau fashion represented as a fashion trend at the turning point to the new millennium is one of great significance as an organic, an environment-intimate and continuance-possible design in a future.

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A Study on the 21stCentury Digital Visuality Through Lacan's Notion of the Real Gaze - From an Aspect of Digital Frame Expension - (라깡의 시선도해를 통해서 본 21세기 디지털 시각성 변화 연구 - 디지털 프레임 확장의 관점에서 -)

  • Lim, Sang Guk;Kim, Cheeyong
    • Journal of Korea Multimedia Society
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    • v.21 no.5
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    • pp.638-647
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    • 2018
  • This study aimed to identify visuality changes in the $21^{st}century$ digital visual media art through the expension of digital frames based on visuality represented by Cartesian perspectivalism in the modern age. The visuality of perspective, camera obscura and panorama, which are called modern visual systems, was analyzed to illustrate each characteristic from a viewpoint of a seeing subject. These characteristics of the visual systems were restructured to meet the visuality of the digital era through the illustrations of Lacan's gaze. In addition, the characteristics of frames found in the $21^{st}century$ digital visual media art were identified, and they were categorized into and illustrated from physical, convergent and interactional viewpoints. The outcomes were classified into the $21^{st}century$ digital frame types, and new $21^{st}$century digital visual illustrations were suggested based on the results.

A Study on the changes and chronological features of bentwood techniques of furniture design - Focus on the representative figures and examples that led the development of the bentwood technique - (가구디자인의 곡목기법 변천과 시대별 특징에 관한 연구 - 곡목 기법의 발전을 이끈 대표적 인물과 사례를 중심으로 -)

  • Kang, Hyun Dae;Kim, Chan Ung
    • Journal of the Korea Furniture Society
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    • v.25 no.1
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    • pp.1-10
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    • 2014
  • The First bentwood chairs in the world, called "winsor chairs" were made by British craftsman in the 17th century. Since then, from the start of NO.14 using solid bentwood by 19th-century German Michael Thonet, furniture making techniques such as Bent knee, Y-leg, X-leg- were developed based on Llaminated bentwood made by Alvar Aalto of Finland in the 20th century. In the 20th century Charles Eames of the United States studied Molded plywood, using plywood to produce a variety of furniture and during the 17~20 century a variety of Bentwood were developed. Coming into the 21st century, American Matthias Pliessnig and Phil Seaton worked with past Bentwood designs, developing Bentwood further by adapting Bentwood's know-how and IT technology. Science and technology evolved and Reholz of Germany developed technology which can mold three-dimensional wood using a new matarial called 3D-veneer, In the past only plastic or metal could be moulded 3 dimensional but now beautiful wood grain patterns can be molded by utilizing this technology. Also this is comparable with the past two-dimensional molding technology. In this Sustainable Design techniauses era, Bentwood fused with IT technology has great potential as a high-tech and eco-friendly techniche.

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Repair and Construction Methods of Hanyangdoseong in 18th Century (18세기 한양도성의 개축과 축성기법)

  • Song, In Ho;Kim, Young Soo;Moon, In Sik
    • Journal of architectural history
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    • v.30 no.4
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    • pp.79-90
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    • 2021
  • Since its construction in the late 14th century, Hanyangdoseong had been carried out three major repairs and reconstructions during the 500 years of the Joseon Dynasty. In addition to the large-scale construction, small-scale construction continued until King Gojong era. In particular, in the 18th century, systematic construction management was implemented by the craftsmen and the military participated in the renovation of Hanyangdoseong in earnest, and the construction methods also developed rapidly. In the early 18th century, new construction techniques were attempted in various sections of the reconstruction work, and gradually became a common technology for repairing Hanyangdoseong in the late 18th century. The purpose of this study is to examine the characteristics and period of changes in the 18th century's construction technique, when the rapid development of Hanyangdoseong took place. To this end, the excavation results related to Hanyangdoseong, the remaining city wall, and the inscribed stones were used to identify and demonstrate the characteristics and change of the construction method.