• 대한가정학회지
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• 제44권9호
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• pp.41-50
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• 2006

This study examines the characteristics of the military look in modern fashion. The materials for the study are mainly precedent studies and related literature, although fashion portfolios and magazines, domestic and international, are used for the exploratory study. The results of the study are as follows. First, the military look for women dismantles the sexual symbolism endowed with the clothes by expressing a neutral charm out of dichotomy image between genders. The neutral expression of the military look, different from the military look of the 20th century, provides a chance to feature a new image by pursuing more individual freedom than human itself. Second, the military-look emphasizes feminine sensual charm through exposing, concealing, or decorating with ornaments which are transformed from the elements of the military clothes, This is different from the past military look that expressed masculine rigidity through simplifying the details and emphasizing the male body silhouette. Third, the military look produces a deconstruction image instead of just showing its intrinsic thoughts or symbolic message through combining design elements or symbolic details of the military look with other images, transforming and exaggerating the shapes, or mixing the time point of views reinterpreting the present or the future image.

• 복식
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• 제54권6호
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• pp.41-52
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• 2004

The objective of this study is to contemplate both the formation and the aesthetic characteristics of the ballerina look represented in modern fashion by analyzing a ballet costume. The results of this study could be summarized as the following: the ballerina look is formed by ballet costume itself with being stick to or exposing human body line, or by casual dress mixed with a ballet costume; the materials consist of both the major materials for a ballet costume such as silk, chiffon, tulle, lace, or organza, and the usual materials for casual dress: a variety of color such as transparent, pastel etc. is also used with typically used colors like white and black: decoration is basically composed of ruffle, drape, gather and the distinctive accessory like toe shoes, ribbon tape, ankle warmer is used to show a feature of a ballet costume These formative characteristics of the ballerina look presented in modern fashion implies illusory, pure, and hybridity. traits. First, illusion of the ballerina look not only implicitly expresses a womans wish to experience a ballerina's fantastic world, but also recreates woman herself into a ballerina on a stage. Second, purity of the ballerina look makes design look feminine and smooth, which is expressed with girlish taste through materials and colors. Third, hybridity of the ballerina look suggests a standard of a new trend, which is active style, by adding comfortableness and flexibleness to romantic femininity.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제30권9_10호
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• pp.1476-1484
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• 2006

This study is on the esthetic characteristics of Tuxedo-Look in the modern women fashion from 1990s to the present. It could contribute to understand the aspects and the sense of beauty of the modern fashion. This study is performed by reviewing the precedent studies, related literature and deploying fashion portfolios, domestic and international fashion magazines for the exploratory study. The results of the study are the following. First, Tuxedo-Look expresses the androgenous image which weakens the superficial message of masculinity or femininity and produces the unified image of men and women. Tuxedo-Look, a symbolic male dress item, is brought in the women clothes and it is recreated by design modification, new wearing style, and producing effects. Second, Tuxedo-Look emphasizes femininity by using a exposure and body line stressed design and matching the women dress items with various materials and colors or tuxedo. Third, Tuxedo-Look suggests a dismantling point of view such as exaggeration, distortion, secession, and breaking from the convention. Tuxedo-Look expresses uncertain value by breaking up the symbolic valueby coordinating with casual items and denies formal construct of tuxedo such as perfect balance, symmetrical silhouette, formality, totality.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제16권4호
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• pp.634-645
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to develop cruise look design inspired by the ocean life motif using by computer CAD system. Domestic and international brands were selected for this study researching cruise line collection. A variety of literature and online site for concept of cruise look and sustainable design was studied. Adobe Illustrator CS2 and Adobe Photoshop CS2 program were used for cruise look design through analysis of 07/08 S/S trend. The diffusion of cruise look reflects a societal trend to be changed life pattern. The results of this study are as below. First, as this society has become modernized with advancement of technology, people have been increasingly interested in the pursuit of happiness and the concept of 'quality of life', thereby creating a new trend of consumption culture. As a result, fashion market place changed targeting sensible and self-enrichment customers. Second, as combining rapid technological innovation and mass production, industrial design caused environmental pollution and the problems are being worsen. Fashion design has same problems and led to eco-friendly design by the large. Third, as the change of style influenced by economic and social condition, cruise look re-defined and became more common. The change of various fields led to fashion market place should be changed. The cruise look design using computer program will give more benefits to many designers.

• 복식
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• 제55권7호
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• pp.76-88
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• 2005

The aim of this study is to define the concept of the matchless, and its social and cultural origins. I shall also define the different types of Matchless style, the respective characteristics of each style, and the distinguishing features of this style in domestic street fashion. In order to do this, 1 have referred to several published studies and a number of Web-sites of Korean fashion information companies for my research. The results of this study are the following; 1. The concept of matchless is a positive way of self-expression by coordination, created by consumers who attach great importance to their image and to developing their individual style. Also, this concept constitutes a new approach to code which reanalyzes existing styles with a new sensitivity. 2. The social & cultural origins of matchless are the expansion of fear of war and terror, and economic depression, the extension of the 5-day workweek, interest in 'Well-being', and the phenomena of cultural diversity. 3. The types of Matchless are Style Matchless, Theme Matchless, Texture Matchless, Season Matchless, and Complex-Layered Matchless. 4. The distinguishing features of Matchless in street fashion are the distinction of formal & Casual wear's Matchless, the creation of a new Look in Sports & Casual wear's Matchless, the development of a new coordinated, layered look, the immense popularity of Denim, the new fashionable versions of Military style, and the renaissance of the Romantic Feminine Look.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제21권8호
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• pp.1353-1364
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• 1997

The purpose of this study is to present a theoretical framework for analysis and interpretation of medieval look in fashion by investigating its aesthetic values. Accordingly, it would provide a better understanding of the medieval culture with its composite aspects. Modernism sought to make the Middle Ages in its own image.'New Medievalism' has on the whole tried to avoid reading the Middle Ages onto the modern world. Instead it designates a predisposition about the discipline of medieval studies broadly conceived. Consequently, it has changed the viewpoint of medieval culture from the one-sided angle into the diversified one. As recent studies based on New Medievalism have argued, a close look at the medieval culture revealed the dualistic nature of it, with contradictory aspects such as piety and secularity, ideality and formality coexisting. The characteristics of the medieval culture are categorized to asceticism, naturalism, mysticism and secularism. Asceticism, which is responsible for the melancholic and heavy atmosphere of the medieval culture, is related to christianity and despair of life. It is expressed in medieval dress in forms of body-concealing semi-fitted silhouette, coarse texture and dark color. As a reaction to the extreme splendor and exposure of recent fashion, the ascetic medieval look is attracting attention. The monastic look is characterized by body-concealing silhouettes and minimalized usage of colors and details. Naturalism is the feature seeking for purity of the nature and the human itself. It appears in terms of line as a smooth curve flowing along the body contours, or as a revival style of the Greco-Roman drapery in the medieval dress. Naturalism in the medieval look of the late 20th century fashion is expressed as a pure image with the use of sheer and soft fabric to form a smooth curve flowing along the body contours. Mysticism symbolizes the authority of the Christ and the glory of heaven. It is presented in the medieval dress of the body-concealing straight silhouette made of gorgeous fabrics, brilliant colors and decorations by gems and gold. The insecurity caused by the fin-de-siecle mood is creating a strong interest in religion and it is reflected in fashion as a medieval look reviving the solemn and magnificent style of the medieval dress. Secularism is a reflection of the medieval mind of indulging in the beauty of the mundane world. Heraldry and excessive decorations of the medieval dress are forms of this secularism. These styles of gorgeousness are being refined into a new medieval look of the 1990's. The medieval look of the modern fashion is featured in various styles, reflecting the pluralism of the postmodern society.

• 복식
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• 제43권
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• pp.203-224
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• 1999

As androgny presented by feminism still appear in contemporary fashion since mid 1980's feminism as a social phenomenon can be considered to habe influenced fashion history. This paper surveys the sex images of androgynous look that appeared in contemporary fashion into bisexual image and neutral images based on the feminist aspects of changes in contemporary fashion. As stated above bisexual images and neutral images of androgynous look shown in clothing are an attempt to reach one single integrated complete being by overacoming 'femininity' or 'masculinity' and combining the element of the two sexes. Consequently androgynous look creates new attraction by harmoniously coordinating characteristics of the two sexes instead of totally differentiating between masculinity and femininity that are represented in the form of clothing that has conceptual visual characteristics. Following are the conclusions of the reseach of this paper. First 'androgynous' as a feminist sex concept reflects the spirit of the times. Since the sex roles are divided and diversified and the concept of femininity is changing the concept of androgyny requiring both masculine and feminine characteristics in an essential sex concept for sucessful conduct of roles in a complex modern society. Second the integrated human image of androgynous look has led to a new culture with fashion trends that has been ahead of times by curing the functions of fashion to differentiate between men and women. Third androgynous look at the turn-of-the-centuy will not cease to exist but be a lasting fashion phenomenon while the sex concept presented by feminism has become the core to destrov the dichotomous fashion style of the 20th century. Fourth androgynous look is expressed in various manners in contemporary fashion since it shown how human beings accipt the adaptation method desperately required by the contemporary times. Androgynous look can be viewd as the desire for ultimate freedom that can be acquired by destroying the dichotomous sex concept and as the will to become a subject of the world as integrated human being. As we look into fashion culture creation of fashion is not the result of an accidental cause or an individual's work but the reflection of the spirit of the times. In this sense androgynous look introduced by a new sex concept to contemporary fashion has reflected the spirit of the times and led the cultural atmosphere and moreover it is an important fashion style that can characterize the contemporary times while lasting in the future.

• 복식
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• 제28권
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• pp.239-253
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• 1996

The purpose of this dissertation is to exam-ine the hippie look which is one of the most popular fashion trends in the early 90s, in re-lation to the hippie style in 60s and cultural restoration. in order to investigate the re-lationship this dissertation studies the trans-feral phenomenon of anti-fashion into mother fashion in the basis of social and clutural theories. hippie culture is the anti-culture which appeared in America in the late 60s, it tried to create a new culture by subverting the ruling class culture with their combative life style and peculiar appearance which are distinguished from mother culture. First of all to examine the inner symbolic meaning and outer shape of the hippie style I divided the characteristics of the hippies into ideology social value and attitude on sex. in the aspect of ideology the hippie show strong subjectivity while mother culture shows ob-jectivity. in social value the hippie has the resisting chaacteristics while mother culture has the conformative characteristics. In the aspect of sex the hippie tries to break the fixed idea of mother culture. Hippie culture as anti-culture is symbolically expressed in hippie style fashion which is dif-ferent from mother fashion in shape. There-fore the inner meaning and the outer shape of the hippie style shows strong characteristics of anti-fashion. Hippie style as anti-fashion has an effect on high fashion in the late 60s and the early 70s and on hippie look which is restored in 90s. however hippie-look in 90s is a mother-fashion in which all symbolic mean-ings of the hippie style are weakened and the only outer shape of hippie style is presented and suggested. It doesn't show any cultural backgrounds ideology social value and new attitude on sex of the hippies. The transferal phenomenon of anti-fashion into mother-fashion is summarized as follows. First in the process of tranference to highfashion in 60s and 70s and hippie-look in 90s the resistance of the hippie style is weakened and only suggested through the outer look. Second the hippie style which reappeared in the high fashion and mother fashion in 90s are layered look military uniform mode flower print grunge look romantic look peasant look ethnic look gypsy style handicraft ornaments working suit style handicraft ornaments working suit style and the use of the see-through cloth. Third the fact that the popular and high fashion were influenced by anti fashion in 60s proves filter-up theory in fashion adaption theory. As I examined before the ideology of the hippies are faded in high fashion in 60s-70s and hippie-look in 90s. The symbolic meaning of the hippie style is also weakened and only presented as a fashion trend.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제11권4호
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• pp.52-68
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• 2007

[ $Courr{\grave{e}}ges$ ]Look style has been showing up continuously since 1980s in the fashion world. In response to that, this study aimed to look into the trend of design in 1960s and examine the formative artistic characteristics in $Courr{\grave{e}}ges$ Look in order to explore the $Courr{\grave{e}}ges$ Look of Andre Courregs. Following the flow of the times, the $Courr{\grave{e}}ges$'s design has transformed and developed through the styles of the pants suit look, the space age look, the mini look and the sporty look. His own style constructed by simple line like a mini skirts, accurate rates, geometric patterns, high tech materials, vivid color and etc, in 1960s. He has also innovated the fields of textile, garment cutting, details, and accessories. The $Courr{\grave{e}}ges$ Style was expressed by pure&avant-garde style, sporty&modern style, cheerful&reveal style and dynamic&funny style. Functionality with humor to $Courr{\grave{e}}ges$ was an important element that expresses both youth and casual. For the active, new woman, not only a funtional beauty but also a futuristic sensibility is expressed in the $Courr{\grave{e}}ges$ Style.

• 디자인학연구
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• 제18권4호
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• pp.195-204
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• 2005

본 연구의 목적은 최근 문화 속에서 새로운 가치기준으로 주목받고 있는 취향의 개념을 체계적으로 정리하고, 취향을 중심으로 현대패션에 표현된 룩의 조형성과 미적가치에 대하여 살펴보는 데에 있다. 취향은 개인에 의해 개별적으로 추구되는 삶의 방식이며 선호이자 현대사회 내에서 개인을 구별짓는 중요한 요소이며, 특히 패션은 취향의 차별화를 표현하는 주요 대상이다. 취향이 표현된 룩으로는 시대를 초월한 멋쟁이 취향의 댄디룩과 최근에 새롭게 주목받고 있는 저속한 취항이 표현된 키치룩, 성적 이상 취향이 표현된 페티시룩, 엽기 취향이 표현된 그로테스크룩과 어린 취향이 표현된 키덜트룩 등이 있다. 현대인의 다양한 취향과 그의 표현인 룩은 패션의 향유를 통한 즐거움의 추구이며 현재에 대한 긍정적인, 그리고 미래에 대한 적극적인 기대를 나타내는 상징적 표현이라 할 수 있다. 룩을 통해 패션과 사회는 서로 소통할 수 있으며, 디자이너는 컬렉션을 통해 룩을 효과적으로 제안함으로써 소비자의 취향을 만족시키는 핵심적인 역할을 할 수 있다. 본 연구의 결과는 취향에 대한 학문적 근거를 제공해 주며, 패션으로 표현된 미적 가치를 보석 줌으로써 문화 속의 취향과 패션의 룩에 대한 해석의 틀을 제공할 수 있을 것으로 기대된다.