• 패션비즈니스
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• 제7권4호
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• pp.105-120
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• 2003

Culture and society exist in the present, but they came from the past. So did clothing. As dressing is deeply based on culture pattern of the times, it is affected by various culture patterns and still keeps developing in modern times. This study is intended to examine the features of retro fashion on culture and dressing of the 19th century. The features of retro fashion on Neoclassical and Romantic culture and dressing are objection to the existing pattern, recursion to the past, and creativity characteristic of pattern of those days. Neoclassicism arose as it rejected Baroque and Rococo style, and imitated culture and artistic pattern of Greece and Rome. Romanticism objected to formal and universal pattern of Neoclassicism, and imitated Gothic style while recognizing historical facts and studying medieval times. Dressing in Neoclassicism did not accept exaggerated and luxurious Rococo pattern, and imitated simple, soft and straight silhouette of Greece and Rome and created its unique Empire Style. Romanticism imitated luxurious style of Renaissance, the Middle Ages, Baroque, and Rococo, different from simple and straight neoclassical style during the Bourbon restoration, and created its unique style. Thus, it is shown that retro fashion on Neoclassical and Romantic culture and dressing reflect the style of those days.

• 한국복식학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국복식학회 2001년도 International Costume Conference:Exploring Global Costume Culture
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• pp.104-104
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• 2001

• 복식
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• 제63권2호
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• pp.82-97
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• 2013

The aim of this thesis is to investigate the change of men and women's costumes in late 18th century and early 19th century in view of its ideological streams by examining the portraits of the painter Jacques-Louis David. The method of investigation used was to select 29 pieces of portraits from 1766 to 1825, which showed the clear descriptions about the costumes and to analyze the costume's forms, ornaments and the headdress. The category was divided into 3 stages in terms of the changes in costume. The first stage, from 1766 until 1788, is the one of turnaround from the Rococo costume to the early neoclassical one. The typical Rococo costume was incrementally transformed into a simpler design without ornaments, and then natural silhouette in men and women's costumes started to appear from 1783 until 1788. This might be attributed to the neoclassical trend which was affected by the enlightenment ideology. The second stage, from 1788 until 1795, is the period of change from the costume of the early neoclassic style to the typical neoclassic style and also the time from the 1793 to 1795 was regarded as the peak of neoclassic style when the effect of enlightenment began to decrease while one of neoclassicism exerted its strong influence on the costume. The third stage, from 1795 until 1825, similar to the previous neoclassical style was also notable in its turning into producing the empire dress of Empire style. From 1820 on, it was a period that showed signs of influence from romanticism while the effect of neoclassicism started to become more diminished.

• 비교문화연구
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• 제42권
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• pp.393-418
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• 2016

스페인의 18세기 극작가 비센떼 가르시아 델 라 우에르따의 대표작 "라?"은 상연 당시 커다란 흥행 성공과 대중적 인기를 얻은 연극으로, 당시의 주된 미학적 조류였던 신고전주의의 규범을 충실하게 따른 가장 이상적인 극작품으로 여러 학자와 비평가들에 의해 평가되어져 왔다. 그러나 이 연극의 대중적 성공을 가능케 한 요인은 삼단일성의 원칙이라든지 희극적 인물의 배제 등과 같은 신고전주의의 외적 규범에 대한 준수에 있었던 게 아니라, 여전히 이전 시대의 바로크 연극적 성향에 열광하고 있었던 당시의 스페인 관객들의 독특한 경향과 기호에 맞도록 그 주제나 내용을 전통극에 맞도록 조화시켰던 데에 있었다. 즉, 당시의 스페인 관객은 자신들 고유의 극적 취향과는 무관하게 이전 시대의 바로크적 연극을 미신과 비이성, 비논리와 무질서로 가득 찬 연극으로 간주하며 이러한 연극에 열광하는 자신들을 일방적으로 계몽하려는 신고전주의자들의 연극을 철저히 외면하였던 것이다. 이와 같은 상황에서 신고전주의 비극과 스페인 연극적 전통의 조화를 이루어낸 우에르따의 비극 "라?"은 극적 성공에 대중의 지지와 후원이 얼마나 중요한 것인지를 잘 알려주는 극작품이라 할 수 있겠다. "라?"에 나타난 전통극적 요소로는 크게 명예, 시적 정의, 그리고 사랑으로 요약될 수 있는데, 이 요소들은 공히 스페인의 바로크 연극 전체를 관통하는 주요한 극적 코드들인 것이다.

• 대한건축학회논문집:계획계
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• 제35권7호
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• pp.73-80
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• 2019

This paper tried to investigate the features of French garden pavillons (jardin pavillons) in the 17th and 18th centuries, in which the royal built them, publicly enjoying culture or privately having a refuge. The scope of the garden pavilions covered those associated with a pleasure place that accommodated performances, dancing, and dinners. They included not only rustic, Chinese, Turkish and Gothic pavilions but also grottos, nymphaeums, and artificial ruins built for banquets and festivals. This paper identified the features of the 17th and 18th century French garden pavilions as follows: Those pavilions firstly established French Neoclassicism, secondly applied the techniques of pastiche, thirdly reflected women's influence, and lastly revealed the short cycles of their vicissitudes. In conclusion this study, with the summary of the main text, explained the influence of the French pavilions on Europe and America.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제31권6호
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• pp.824-836
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• 2023

The purpose of this study is to analyze the formative characteristics of women's costumes among the Regency era's elite in the television drama Bridgerton (2020). Its methodology investigates the socio-cultural background and literature on clothing in the Regency era. It also analyzes the formative elements of Daphne's costumes (of the Bridgerton family) and Penelope's costumes (of the Featherington family) representing the upper class. The study reveals that women's costumes had a tubular silhouette consisting of a low neckline, high waistline, and short puffed sleeves. The series expressed well the Regency-era costumes, which were influenced by Neoclassicism and characterized by silk materials, shawls, gloves, belts, a reticule, and hairstyles. Among the formative elements, the Bridgerton and Featherington families' costumes showed distinct differences in color, materials, patterns, accessories, and hairstyles. Daphne's costumes were intelligent and elegant in pastel-toned blues and had small patterns. She carried small accessories and had a natural curled hairstyle. In contrast, Penelope wore decorative and splendid styles in intense colors and large patterns. Her accessories were large and colorful, and she had a strong curled hairstyle. These costumes express the Bridgerton family as aristocratic and the Petringer family as flashy, thereby distinguishing the two families. These research results will be presented as basic data for producing drama costumes in the 19th century to help complete the drama.

• 복식
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• 제66권6호
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• pp.46-66
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• 2016

This thesis aims to analyze the costume changes according to the ideological transition through the portraits of Napoleon Bonaparte. This study selected 32 color pictures of Napoleon, which was taken during his time as a general to his ascension as Emperor (1785-1815). The study qualitatively analyzed the traits and costume elements in view of the items, color and ornaments of the costume, while studying the effects of the ideological transition. The costumes of Napoleon were categorized into three parts: general, governor and Emperor. Firstly, Napoleon most frequently wore the navy uniforms when taking the portraits as a general. The uniform gave Napoleon the image of strength, youth and intelligence, which reflected the ideology of enlightenment. Secondly, the red-colored administrator uniform, combined with a military coat with culotte, was worn to make the governor look intelligent, which would ascribe to the ideological demand of the enlightenment. Lastly, his portraits as emperor showed him in long white tunica, combined with red-colored coronation cape ornamented with embroidery, ermine fur, and the crown of laurel. This costume denoted both the enlightenment and also the neoclassical trend aspiring for the return to the Greek and Roman era. In this way, the portrait of Napoleon might be expected to reflect the periodical change of the ideology through describing the transition of the costumes. It might be evident that his image of the strong general changed to that of an intelligent governor, which was in demand when the enlightenment idea became popular. When Napoleon became the emperor, his image changed into that of a Roman emperor, which implies that neoclassical ideas were used as source of influence.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제9권1호
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• pp.15-23
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• 2007

In the Middle Ages it was customary to cover up the hair, but the Renaissance brought uncovered coiffures with the revival of humanism. In those days, silk and linen veil, ribbon, string of pearl used for covering, wrapping round with the hair. During the Baroque period, the style of hair was to pursue the beauty of imbalance in form, reflecting the atmosphere of the time. Hurluberlu and Fontanges hairstyles were in fashion. Then in the Rococo period, huge, resplendent coiffures of exquisite beauty were invented as a symbol of power, and these modes of hairdo were a dominant force in the culture of personal adornment of that time. Pouf and enfant hairstyles were in fashion. As a reaction against the extravagance of the proceding modes, late 18th and early 19th centuries brought revival of simpler hairstyles of ancient Greece and Rome by the influence of neoclassicism. The latter half of the 1820's onwards saw he reappearance of voluminous coiffures as well as an enormous variation of knots with combinations of false knots and chignons. Late 19th through early 20th centuries was the period of beautifully waved hair, the style of which was an integration of Marcel waves and Art Nouveau. The 20th century saw the epoch-making invention of permanent waves using electricity. Concurrently, with an increasing participation of women in social affairs since pre-and post-World War I periods, as well as with Art Deco in full flourish, bobbed hair was created in pursuit of lightness and nimbleness, quickly showing the change of women's modes of life. Hair fashions thoroughly embody the aesthetic sense of each period, reflecting the landscape of contemporary society.

• 만화애니메이션 연구
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• 통권49호
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• pp.589-610
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• 2017

20세기 초 나타나기 시작한 다양하고 실험적인 음악 사조들의 흐름속에서 중요하고 의미있는 역할을 하는 작곡가 무진스키의 음악세계와 작품들을 살펴보고 오늘날의 다양한 장르의 음악과의 발전관계를 이해하는데 이 연구의 목적을 두었다. 이 논문에서는 그의 작품 중 근본이 되는 피아노 음악들을 분석하여 양식적 특성 즉, 형식, 선율, 화성, 조성, 리듬 그리고 구조 등 다양한 형태의 기법들을 살펴보고 작곡가의 음악적 성장 과정과 철학적 배경 등을 소개하고 있다. 무진스키의 음악은 20세기 음악의 다양한 형태 즉, 무조음악, 12음기법, 전위음악, 전자음악 등의 자유적인 양상에 반하여 신고전주의, 신낭만주의 혹은 신바로크적인 특징을 보여주고 있는 작가로서 전통적인 형식을 사용하였으나 작품의 성격은 매우 자유스러운 형태를 띠고 있다. 또한 1960년대 다큐멘터리 영화음악 제작에 참여하여 매우 독창적이고 감각적인 음악들을 남기고 있다. 무진스키의 음악은 현대음악 시기에 존재하지만 조성의 성격을 버리지 않고 경제적인 아이디어와 서정적인 선율, 복조성, 9음 음계 등 신고전주의적이며 신낭만주의적인 특징을 가지고 있어 매우 독창적이고 작품성 있는 음악으로 평가받고 있으며 오늘날 영화음악과 재즈음악 발전에 매우 좋은 토양이 되었다는 점에 그 의미가 크다고 할 수 있다.