• 문화기술의 융합
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• 제5권4호
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• pp.23-27
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• 2019

우리나라는 오천 년 역사를 이어오는 동안 우수한 문화자산을 축적해 왔으면서도 문화를 상품화하는 일을 소홀히 하였다. 그 결과 세계인이 인정하는 기술이 있으면서도 세계에 내놓을 만한 훌륭한 문화상품이 없다. 따라서 전통문화 속의 독특한 소재를 활용하여 현대적인 감각으로 재 디자인하여 상품화하는 것이 필요하다. 천연염색에 의한 직물은 채도가 낮으므로 특별한 배색조화를 하지 않아도 잘 어울리며, 자연스럽고 편안한 느낌을 준다. 따라서 천연염색으로 얻어진 직물들은 문화상품 개발을 위하여 매우 적절한 소재라고 생각된다. 또한 한지는 질기고 중후하며 우아한 느낌을 지니고 있어서 그 자체로 예술의 한 분야를 구축할 수 있는 우수한 소재라고 할 수 있다. 본 연구에서는 세계적으로 뛰어난 한지를 소재로 한 한지직물을 활용하여, 쪽, 홍화, 황벽, 그리고 자근으로 천연 염색하였다. 그 염색 직물을 활용하여 두 대의 양산과 카드 지갑의 문화상품을 만들어 제시하였다.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제21권2호
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• pp.29-39
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• 2009

The color mixture, obtained from Indigo and Japanese pagoda tree, was applied to cellulose fibers such as cotton, linen and rayon to diversify color gamut of natural dyes. The color mixture was tried with two different methods. The first process was that cellulose fibers were dyed with $5{\sim}25%$ owf Japanese pagoda tree solution, and then dyed 1 to 4 times with Indigo. The second process was dyeing 1 to 7 times with Indigo, followed by dyeing with $5{\sim}25%$ owf Japanese pagoda tree solution. K/S value of the dyed fibers with one colorant and color mixture increased in the order of linen, cotton, rayon. It was also found that the first process could give higher K/S values than the second process.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제31권5호
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• pp.659-669
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• 2007

견직물 시료에 치자, 소목 염색을 행한 후, 자외선에 0일, 14일, 21일, 28일 조사 시킨 후 시간의 경과에 따른 시료들의 염착량, 색채 변화, 형태 변화, 인장강도 그리고 화학적 변화를 관찰한 결과 다음과 같은 결론을 얻었다. 1. 염재의 종류와 매염 여부와 관계없이 자외선 조사 초기 14일 동안에는 염착량이 서서히 감소하다가 그 후에는 급격한 감소를 보였다. 명반 매염을 한 경우 염착량 감소가 더 적었으며 소목이 치자보다 자외선 차단 효과가 더 우수한 것으로 나타났다. 2. 자외선 조사 시간이 길어짐에 따라, $L^*,\;a^*,\;b^*$, H V/C, ${\Delta}E$ 등은 급격한 변화와 퇴색경향을 보였으며 명반 매염제가 자외선에 의한 탈색을 방지해 주는 역할을 하는 것으로 나타났다. 또한 치자보다 소목의 ${\Delta}E$값이 낮게 나타났는데 이는 염착량 변화의 결과와 일치하며 소목이 치자보다 자외선 차단 효과가 더 우수한 것으로 나타났다. 3. 염색 견직물 시료들 모두 자외선 조사 시간 경과에서, 초기에는 섬유 표면의 피브릴 분리현상을 보였으며 조사 시간 증가에 따라 섬유 표면이 더 깊고 두껍게 박리되어 손상이 심해졌으나 SEM 측정에서는 두 염료의 매염제 처리 유, 무의 차이는 발견하기가 힘들었다. 4. 자외선 조사에 따라 인장강도는 자외선 조사 14일 이후부터 감소되어 인장강도 감소율은 대략 5-20%의 유지율을 나타내었으며 매염 처리 시료의 인장강도 감소율이 더 낮았다. 5. FT-IR 분석에 의하면 자외선 조사 시간 증가에 따라 치자와 소목 주 피크들은 사라지고 견섬유의 주 피크만이 확인되었다.

• 한국가정과학회지
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• 제3권1호
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• pp.51-63
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• 2000

The purpose of this study was to identify the best dyeing conditions using onion's outer shell. and to apply to the method in practical daily life. To do this. we extracted quercetin from onion's outer shell and dyed several natural fabrics such as cotton, slack mercerized cotton, ramie. and silk. under the different conditions. Dyed fabrics were Investigated in the aspect of dyeability and colorfastness. The effective conditions for the light-fastness and washing-fastness also have been studied. The results of the experiment were varied with such conditions as temperature. time. pH degree. and treatment and types of mordants. The results are as follows ; 1. Fabrics dyed with onion's outer shell showed excellent dyeability even though there were no mordants, and the silk fabric dyed better than both cotton and ramie fabric. Furthermore, in the cases of repeated dyeing and treatment of mordants using AIK(SO$_4$)$_2$.12$H_2O$ and CuSO$_4$,.5$H_2O$ dyeability of specimen had been improved 2. Cellulose fabrics such as cotton, mercerized cotton and ramie showed the best dyeability under relatively low temperature in the range of 20~4$0^{\circ}C$. On the contrary to cellulose fabric, silk fabric showed the best dyeability under higher dyeing temperature. All fabrics had the higest K/S value at pH 3 regardless of the kind of fiber 3. Dyeing colors varied with the kind of mordants. Colors were turned into yellow in AIK(SO$_4$)$_2$.12$H_2O$ into Yellow-red in CuSO$_4$,.5$H_2O$ , and into green-Yellow in FeSO$_4$.7$H_2O$. As mordants, AIK(SO$_4$)$_2$.12$H_2O$, CuSO$_4$,. 5$H_2O$. FeSO$_4$.7$H_2O$. gallic acid and tartaric acid were used and especially AIK(SO$_4$)$_2$.12$H_2O$ showed the best dyeability and colorfastness in repeated dyeing. Mordants such as AIK(SO$_4$)$_2$.12$H_2O$ made fabrics have better chroma and washing-fastness though the light-fastness was poorer than non mordanting. 4. Repeated dyeing brought us deep color. When fresh dyebath was used each time, the dyeability was increased as the experiment was repeated more. When dyed with used dyebath several times, improved dyeability could not be expected. The optimal using times of the used dyebath was twice.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제23권3호
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• pp.169-178
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to develop eco-printing method using natural dyes combined with chitosan treatment to impart various pattern effect on cotton fabric. It was examined whether tone-on-tone pattern effects could be produced by screen printing with chitosan paste and subsequently dip-dyed in natural dye bath. For polychromic colorants, fabrics were pre-mordanted and then screen printed with chitosan, while only chitosan printing treatment was applied for monochromic colorants. Color, dye uptake, washing, light and rubbing fastnesses of printed fabrics were measured in relation to the presence of chitosan printing. Pre-mordanting and chitosan printing treatment were applied to such polychromic colorants as madder, sappanwood, onion and cochineal. Also, printing pattern formation on fabrics was evaluated by differences in dye uptake and color. The results suggested that madder, onion and cochineal were effective on pattern formation. Regarding sappanwood, since dye uptake was increased only by pre-mordanting without chitosan printing treatment, there was little color difference and thus patterns were not clearly distinguished. Chitosan printing treatment tended to increase washing, light and rubbing fastnesses of dyed fabrics with polychromic colorants. Chitosan printing treatment was applied to monochromic colorants such as chlorophyll, gardenia and indigo and the effect of printing formation was examined according to the difference in dye uptake. Among monochromic dyes tried, chlorophyll was effective and chitosan printing improved washing and light fastnesses.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제19권4호
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• pp.486-492
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• 2017

This study finds surface color and functions of natural dyeing from Chamaecyparis obtusa leaves which help cure skin problems such as atopic dermatitis. This study also seeks to find dyeing properties and functions of natural colorants derived from Chamaecyparis obtusa and Rubia tinctorum on silk. Dyeing properties and functions are compared between silks dyed with Chamaecyparis obtusa and silks composite-dyed with Chamaecyparis obtusa and Rubia tinctorum. The comparison examines the feasibility of developing healthy and high functional fabrics and wellness of fashion merchandises. Silk dyeing with Chamaecyparis obtuse leaves yields yellow and double coloring from Chamaecyparis obtusa; however, Rubia tinctorum yields yellow/red on silks. Silks dyed with Chamaecyparis obtusa and silks composite-dyed with Chamaecyparis obtusa and Rubia tinctorum show a high level on dry cleaning, ultraviolet protection and deodorization. Especially, the dyed silks from leaves of Chamaecyparis obtusa show a 99.7% antimicrobial effect against staphylococcus aureus ATCC 653B. Silks composite-dyed with Chamaecyparis obtusa and Rubia tinctorum are better known for medicinal herb for dermatitis, and natural colorant, Rubia tinctorum does not improve significantly functions compared with silks dyed with Chamaecyparis obtusa. However, the dyeing properties improve by composite dyeing. This implies that ways to maximize effects of tie-dyeing technique could be developed.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제36권3호
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• pp.324-334
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• 2012

In this research, the dyeing properties of $Lycopus$ $lucidus$ Turcz on cotton and silk fabrics were evaluated to establish a scientific database of natural dyes. The optimum dyeing conditions were identified with K/S values depending on the dyeing concentration, temperature, time, and pH. For the optimum conditions, the color changes for different synthetic mordants were observed as L, $a^*$, $b^*$ and H, V, C. The color fastness after dyeing and mordanting was also examined. Additionally, the antibiosis of $Lycopus$ $lucidus$ Turcz was examined. The results were as follows: For the cotton, the optimized dyeing conditions were 300% (o.w.f.), $50^{\circ}C$, 40 min., and pH 5. For the silk fabric, the conditions were 450% (o.w.f.), $70^{\circ}C$, 60 min., and pH 4. The K/S value of dyed cotton improved about 1.03-2.78 folds after mordanting. The fabric color was yellow in the absence of mordanting, while it was reddish yellow after post-mordanting with FFC. Although the color changed with the mordanting method and mordant, the overall hue was yellow. Thus, $Lycopus$ $lucidus$ Turcz appears to have the potential for use as a natural dyeing material for a yellow hue. The K/S value of the dyed silk fabric improved about 1.05-1.40 folds after mordanting. The fabric showed a reddish yellow color when pre-mordanted with Al and Cu. The washing and dry-cleaning fastness of the cotton and silk fabrics were at the 4-5 level. The light fastness of the cotton improved after mordanting; however, pre-mordanting was more effective than post-mordanting or the absence of mordanting. The dyed cotton, silk fabrics showed excellent antibiosis.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제10권3호
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• pp.78-86
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• 2006

Coffee extract dyeing on silk fabric using various mordanting agents at different mordanting condition was studied in our previous research. Coffee extract dyeing can exert beautiful colors and have several advantages over the conventional natural dyeing. Since most of natural dyes are expensive for mass production, strongly season and source dependent, and hard to store, and therefore, coffee waste was used as natural dye to create beautiful colors in this study. Coffee waste is inexpensive and easy to store, and provide a comparatively regular quality regardless of season and source. The effects of dyeing condition such as dyeing temperature, dyeing time, and liquor ratio on dyeing characteristics of silk fabrics were investigated. Coffee extract dyed silk showed brilliant colors, and the colors were different with the kind of mordant. Cu, Sn, and Al mordanted silks showed golden yellow with subtle change of hue and value, while Fe mordanted silk showed a brownish green color upon coffee extract dyeing. As the dyeing temperature increased, the dyeability generally increased in all mordanted silk fabrics except Fe mordanted silk until $45^{\circ}C$. The dyeing temperature did not affect the dyeability of Fe mordanted silk fabric. As the liquor ratio increased, the dyeability showed a gradual increase in all mordanted silk except Cu mordanted silk. Cu mordanted silk fabric showed an abrupt increase in dyeability at liquor ratio1:150. The dyeing time effect can be separated into 2 stages. During the initial half an hour, the dyeability did not change significantly, and then, increased after 45 min. dyeing time duration. A further increase in dyeing time after 45 min. did not affect the dyeing efficiency in all mordanted silk fabrics except the Cu mordanted.

• 한국약용작물학회지
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• 제14권3호
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• pp.139-142
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• 2006

항 식중독균성 수건 및 행주를 개발하기 위하여 이질풀 추출액 1%로 50-60에서 60분간 염색한 면직물의 염색성과 항균성을 조사하였다. 면직물의 표면색은 무매염, 명반 매염, 수산화칼슘 매염시는 그레이-옐로우로 황색계열을 나타냈으며, 황산구리 매염시는 그레이-브라운, 황산제1철 매염시는 그레이드-그린으로 나타났다. 이질풀 추출액으로 염색한 면직물의 hue 값은 20회 세탁까지는 Y계열을 나타내었으며, 30회와 40회 세탁시는 YR계열을 나타내었다. 이질풀 추출액으로 염색한 면직물은 황색포도상구균, 대장균 및 살모넬라균에 대해 무세탁시 모두 99.99%의 항균성을 보였다 세탁 30회 후의 항균성은 52.91%이상을 나타내었다.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제9권4호
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• pp.441-444
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• 2007

For the purpose of application to new natural dyestuff, the dyeability of Purple onion shell extract was analyzed. It was dyed in cotton fabric according to various dye weight, dyeing temperature, dyeing time. And the effects of mordanting conditions were examined as color differences and color fastnesses. The dyeaffinities were increased as were increased dye weight, especially 100% owf. The optimum dyeing condition of Purple onion shell extract was 40minutes at $60^{\circ}C$. The dyeaffinity was increased at pre-mordanted condition, and color difference was increased distinctly at post mordanted condition. The hue of all mordanted cotton fabrics changed into Yellow where as non mordanted cotton fabric was Red. The color fastnesses of mordanted cotton fabrics were generally not so god, but light fastness was improved in post-Cu mordanted fabric.