• 청정기술
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• 제24권1호
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• pp.1-8
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• 2018

환경 오염에 대한 사회적 요구가 증가하고 염색 공정 폐수 배출에 대한 규제가 강화되면서 기존 수계 염색에서 발생하는 다량의 폐수와 에너지 낭비를 근본적으로 해결하기 위한 대안으로 초임계 염색 공정이 주목 받고 있다. 초임계 염색 공정에서는 기존 수계 염색에서 염색 용매인 물 대신 이산화탄소만을 사용하기 때문에 발생하는 폐수가 전혀 없고 미 고착 염료와 이산화탄소를 재사용 할 수 있다는 점에서 친환경적이다. 또한 염색 이후 추가적인 건조공정 없이 건조된 섬유를 얻을 수 있어 에너지 소비를 줄일 수 있다. 본 논문에서는 먼저 초임계 염색 공정의 발전배경과 현재 우리나라에서의 연구를 정리하였으며 초임계 염색의 원리와 기존 수계염색과의 장단점을 비교 설명하였다. 원리를 보다 자세히 설명하기 위해 초임계 이산화탄소와 염료 사이의 용해도를 비롯해 초임계 이산화탄소와 섬유에서 염료의 분배계수 및 물질전달 연구를 정리하였고, 현재 연구의 한계점과 연구방향을 제시하였다. 또한 초임계 염색 설비 내에서의 염료의 동적거동에 대하여 토의하였으며 전 세계적으로 개발된 초임계 염색 설비를 정리하였다. 마지막으로 현재 초임계 염색 공정의 최적화와 폴리에스터를 제외한 다른 합성섬유와 천연섬유에 적용하기 위해 필요한 연구개발 방향을 제시하였다.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제21권1호
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• pp.166-176
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• 2017

This study is fundamental research on how to be able to scientifically quantify and reproduce a natural dyeing procedure. By dyeing silk fabrics, the establishment of a reproducible dyeing method was sought. Juglans mandshurica has been known as one of the most widely used black vegetable dyes. Repetition conditions and combination dyeing were performed with Juglans mandshurica cortex, gallnut, clove, and Eclipta prostrata L. extracts to express a deep black color. Juglans mandshurica cortex, gallnut, clove, and Eclipta prostrata L. extracts were suitable for black coloration and showed a darker black color when combined with iron mordant. Specifically, Juglans mandshurica cortex and clove can be used for deep black coloring. Color fastness when washed or dry cleaned was found to be strong with a grade of 4-5 and fastness to light was rated at a 3-4. The grade of color change when exposed to rubbing and perspiration was good at a 4-5. In regards to functional property aspects, it showed excellent results with a 99% deodorization rate at 120 minutes of dyeing time, 97.1% UV protection rate, and 85.9% and 62.3% bacterial reduction against Staphylococcus aureus and Streptococcus pneumoniae, respectively. Therefore, it is considered that the extract from the Juglans mandshurica cortex is of great value as an eco-friendly, natural dyestuff.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제35권7호
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• pp.736-747
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• 2011

This study investigates the current status and dyeing properties of various natural indigo powder dyes in the domestic market. Products from India, China, Europe are sold in the market and only a few manufacturers provide recommendation for the method of dyeing and information on the additives. Through the market research and the preliminary investigation on 21 products, 11 were selected for the dyeing experiment which include 3 Indian, 3 Chinese, 2 German, and 1 Pakistani origin indigo reduced powders, and 2 Indian origin dried indigo leaf powder. The two dyeing methods used were the precipitation method and the fresh juice method, both at $10^{\circ}C$, $25^{\circ}C$, and $60^{\circ}C$. Color difference, K/S value, and colorfastness of dyed cotton fabrics were examined. Indian reduced indigo powder showed the highest K/S value, deep dyeing, and the best color fastness. Chinese reduced indigo powder resulted in a more greenish and bluish color. Powders of dried indigo leaves were easy to use but resulted in a pale color due to low dye uptake.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제24권4호
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• pp.253-259
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• 2012

In this work, the natural indigo production process from Polygonum tinctorium was balanced based on the traditional Niram method in Korea. A standard procedure was determined considering the conditions of indican extraction from plant material, the amount of alkali for precipitation, storage of extract, etc. The effect of experimental conditions on the yield of crude dye was investigated. The contents of indigo and indirubin of the crude dyes were analyzed by HPLC. Increase of the amount of crude dye was observed within 1-2.5 days of extraction time. Longer extraction beyond 2.5 days resulted in a slight decrease in the amount of crude dye. There was no consistency in terms of indigo content depending on extraction pH. We found that the storage of extract or harvested plants affected adversely to dye yield and dye quality. Based on the lab scale extraction, large scale extraction was performed for 2-2.5 days in water and 2.0-2.5 g/L of $Ca(OH)_2$ was applied for precipitation of indigo dye. We obtained natural indigo dye containing about 15% of pure indigo in scale-up production using whole plant except root.

• 펄프종이기술
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• 제43권1호
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• pp.1-10
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• 2011

To investigate the combination dyeing properties of natural dyes, the combination dyeing using gallnut,-Al, Cu, Fe-sappan wood, and gallnut-Al, Cu, Fe-gardenia was performed on bast fiber of mulberry, cotton, silk, and their K/S values, colors, and sunlight fastness were measured. The gallnut-Al, Cu, Fe-gardenia dyeing showed the highest K/S values when the dyeing concentration of gallnut is 3%. It tended to show the higher K/S values than gallnut-Al, Cu, Fe-sappan wood. The silk showed the highest values of in K/S, and then followed by cotton, and bast fiber of mulberry. The mordants developed different colors on the bast fiber and the cotton treated with gallnut-Al, Cu, Fe-sappan wood. However, the silk showed a series of YR, showing no effect of the mordants on the development of color. The combination dyeing of gallnut-Al, Cu, Fe-gardenia showed a series of Y. The results showed that sappan wood could develop various colors but gardenia could develop a series of Y. No distinct improvement on sunlight fastness of the combination dyeing was observed.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제33권4호
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• pp.220-229
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• 2021

This study is aimed to a textile design with a motif of korean endemic plants and a method for printing it in an eco-friendly manner. The floral pattern with the motif of korean endemic plants was designed using Illustrator and Photoshop program. CMYK color, which is the basic color of Digital Textile Printing (DTP), is based on natural dyes, and various colors, achromatic colors and pastel tones are applied. As a result, half-linen and cotton were suitable as a result of designing and applying a floral pattern of a korean special plants. Also, as a result of analyzing the printing effect by colorway and DTP for each material, it was printed uniformly and the washing fastness was good. However, fastness of color change showed low, indicating that a follow-up study was needed. This study contributes to environmental conservation through eco-friendly printing and the korean endemic plants will be interested in people around the world beyond korea.

• 한국잠사곤충학회지
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• 제47권2호
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• pp.78-87
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• 2005

본 연구는 우리 야생화중 비교적 대량번식이 가능한 종인 물레나물의 줄기, 꽃, 잎을 채취하여 염액을 추출하고, 다양한 염색 조건에서 견과 면 소재를 염색하여 염색거동을 살펴보고 염색된 색상에 대하여 고찰하여 다음과 같은 결과를 얻었다. 1. pH에 따른 염색에서 견이 면보다 진하게 염색되었고 pH가 중성일때 물레나물은 견 일때 가장 진하게 염색되었다. 2. 염색온도에 따른 염착량은 견과 면 구분 없이 큰 차이가 없었으나 물레나물의 경우 온도가 높아질수록 견이 면보다 약간 진하게 염색되었다. 3. 염색시간이 1시간에서 2시간 사이에서 급격한 Y값의 감소를 보여 이 시간대에서 많은 염착이 이루어 졌다. 4. 면은 염 첨가 농도로 높을수록 Y값이 낮아져 염이 촉염효과 역할을 하는 것으로 보여 졌으나 견의 경우 염 첨가에 따른 Y의 값은 끈 변화가 없는 것으로 나타났다. 5. 물레나물의 염액 농도에 따른 염색성은 견, 면 모두 농도가 작아지면 염착량이 작아졌다. 6. 견의 경우 매염제의 대한 매염효과가 높게 나타나고 있으나 농도는 큰 영향을 미치지 않았다. 면에서 물레나물은 매염효과가 전혀 없는 것으로 나타났다.

• 복식
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• 제56권3호
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• pp.73-80
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• 2006

This study is aimed to produce natural dyeing garments, which contain the sentiments and color sense of Koreans, by using various household supplies, with a view to increase the values added and utilization of natural dyeing. The dyes mainly used for this study are multi-colored ones which are durable after dyeing and can represent various colors. They include Lithodpermum officinale, Caesalpinia sappan, Rubia Cordifolia, Pellodendron Bak, Curcuma Longa L., fallen Ginkgo Biloba, Artemisia Princeps, and Quereus acutissima carr shell. Considering water pollution and other things, aluminum acetate and ferrous chloride were used as mordants. Cheap and practical materials such as cotton cloth and those with traditional patterns and elegance such as silk and ramie fabrics were used to produce baby goods, household supplies, clothes, and accessories. The produced supplies closely contact with our body, so they may have a great effect on human body. The household supplies produced include rug, bedclothes, room bedclothes, curtain, bedding set, cushion, and sunlight blind, in consideration of the functionality or medical actions of the goods which are closely related to the human skin. The infant supplies produced include longcloth for newborn baby, bedding set, gauze handkerchief, and doll. The clothes include night gown, shirt, bath gown, and Korean traditional clothes. The accessories include tablecloth, cup pad, bag, wrapping cloth, mouse and keyboard cushion, and scarf. Nowadays, consumers prefer environment-friendly naturally dyed garments and products. In order to control the naturally dyed garments and products which are traded in the domestic market, it is urgent to introduce such ecological marks as 'Toxproof' and 'Ecoproof.' Currently, many ordinary persons, who are not experts, have interest and participate in natural dyeing, but they simply produce naturally dyed garments, not artistic works or everyday supplies. The present author expects this study will contribute to the production of household goods by such persons. The author also hopes that they will develop and commercialize such designs as suit to modern tastes and senses based on the unique cultural assets of Koreans, so that Korean naturally dyed products may be recognized as reliable commodities equipped with international competitiveness.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제18권4호
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• pp.412-423
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• 2016

This paper explores the possibility, and suggests an experimental procedure, of industrial application of traditional textile design techniques, such as hand silkprinting and natural dyeing. Theoretical and traditional background of this study is William Morris and his followers' Arts and Crafts Movement from the late 19th century to the early 20th century, which laid the philosophical as well as technical foundations of modern textile design tradition. Based on the basic understanding of the design philosophy, and starting from the design techniques of Morris and his successors, I made some experimental and systematic color plans reflecting and exploiting the physical traits and structure of jacquard woven silk material fabrics. And I applied hand silkscreen printing techniques on the jacquard silk fabrics of my own making, while testing various color combinations of natural dyes. After finishing final processing of design samples, I could get textile design products which met the criteria of my original expectation, i.e., eco-friendly and aesthetic design samples that can also be produced in automatized mass production system of contemporary textile industry. The conclusion of this experimental study is that I can expect the natural dyeing techniques, jacquard silk fabrics design techniques, silkprinting techniques, and the basic processes used in this study to be safely applied for contemporary commercial textile industry utilizing automatized silkscreen printing system and digital printing devices.

• 한국가구학회지
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• 제24권4호
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• pp.408-415
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• 2013

In order to evaluate a feasibility of industrial art use of veneer such as cylindrical laminated veneer lumber, the veneers of 4 species of Korean pine, radiata pine, yellow poplar and Japanese cypress were natural dye-colored and clear finished. Natural dyes were red color originated from sappanwood, blue color from polygonum indigo, and yellow color from Amur cork tree and gardenia. the clear coats of crack seal clear and UV protection oil were applied on the dyed veneer. The dyeing and finishing characteristics through fading test were summarized as follows; In non-dyed and non-finished Korean pine veneer, lightness was decreased and yellow and red hues increased after fading test. In natural dyed- and finished-veneer, color difference of gardenia-mixed Amur cork tree was generally highest, and that of polygonum indigo was lowest. Compared to non-treatment of veneers of Korean pine and yellow poplar, color difference decreasing effect by finishing was shown in crack seal clear and UV protection oil. In addition, UV protection oil was more favorable than crack seal clear with more decreased color difference. In result, maximum values of color difference after fading for 8 days were recorded about 16 to 20, which are remarked 'very much' of 12.1 or more when reviewing with 'National bureau of standards unit in USA'.