• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.115-125
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• 2016

This study analyzes the characteristics of the motifs and colors in flower and bird paintings which contain and present Korea's unique aesthetics based on its richest data among all other types of Korean folk paintings. With a theoretical exploration of folk paintings and an analysis of the motifs and colors, textile design with an aim to present highly valued korean modern fashion design was developed. Two hundred and seventy flower and bird paintings were selected from relevant materials, resulting in an extraction of 5,068 colors. A palette of representative colors was made based on densely distributed hues and tones. The research can be summarized as follows: Flower and bird paintings contain flowers, birds, trees and animals and the motifs in the paintings stand for spirituality, philosophies from different times and other symbols of our nation. Each of the motifs in these paintings is a prayer for good luck, especially conjugal harmony and fecundity to bring about happiness and richness. Colors in flower and bird paintings are characteristic of the order: YR(25.5%)>R(19.2%)>Y(10.6%)>PB(9.2%)>G(7.9%), with low-chromatic YR and highly bright R taking up a larger percent. The order of tones is: d(13.5%)>dk (10.5%)>s(10.4%)>dkg(10.0%)>sf(9.1%)and the tone is dark in general. YR, taking up the largest percent, was dull, light, and soft. As for the achromatic colors, the order is: W(5.2%)>Gy(1.9%)>Bk(0.7%). Based on the above analyzed color data, those colors which were high in their hue and tone were extracted to present representative colors. In this way, representative colors like yellow, yellowish red, red, green, and purplish blue were extracted. This was the basis to present motifs and colors originating from subjects of folk paintings in various patterns using Illustrator CS6, to create modern fashion design.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.32-48
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• 2007

Korean traditional flower motifs have often been used in traditional embroidery on personal products and on decorations. The flower motifs seen on embroidery with a variety of techniques show the shapes and colors changing to more and more brilliant and colorful design. Even today the flower motifs in embroideries continue to be reinterpreted in both modern ways and also in traditional ways with their fancy beauty in the design industry. This research is based on documentary and demonstrative studies conducted to find out the formative properties of these motifs through and analyzing the shapes and colors of flower motif embroideries from the Choseon Dynasty as applied in developing modern designs in harmony with their traditional beauty. A summary of the research is as follows. First, the peony blossom appears the most, with its gorgeous flower shape. It was used in a variety of ways for decorative purposes as well as in wishing for wealth and harmony on clothes or on personal products. Second, the result of analyzing the flower motifs on embroidery shows that 'realistic-complex- flower patterns' and 'stylized-complex-flower patterns' are mostly seen. Third, many of the peony blossoms, chrysanthemums, and Japanese apricots were in a radial shape and front facing with stamens, and the lotus flowers were mostly shown on the lateral side. Fourth, as a result of analyzing the colors of the flower motifs on embroideries, a tendency is shown toward the R and RP colors of v, b tone and the shades YR, Y, GY, and G colors of lt and p tone.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.26 no.5
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• pp.793-805
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• 2018

At the beginning of the $20^{th}$ century, Cartier developed Art Deco jewelry designs that have been used as design inspirations to this day. The purpose of this study is to analyze the characteristics of the Art Deco jewelry designs of Cartier in the early $20^{th}$ century. Regarding the research method, this study explored the jewelry designs from 1904 to 1939 by extracting 288 analysis subjects from Cartier's exhibitions, auction picture books, and foreign books, and analyzed the characteristics in terms of design motifs, colors and materials. The results of the study are as follows. Regarding the design motifs, 73% were geometric motifs, and 66% were a combination of circular shapes and polygons, the most frequent. In terms of colors, 69% were chromatic in color, and vivid colors were mostly used in the order of red (24%), - green (19%), and - blue (14%). Of the materials, 92% of the metals consisted of platinum, and gemstones were used in the order of diamonds (41%), - onyx (13%), - emeralds (11%), - rubies (9%), and - sapphires (8%). In the early $20^{th}$ century, Cartier's Art Deco jewelry designs featured abstract and geometric motifs, vivid colors and strong contrasts, platinum and precious gemstones. This study is meaningful in that it explores the competitiveness of Cartier's designs and provides practical ideas to combine Art Deco style with contemporary jewelry designs successfully.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.6 no.4
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• pp.415-420
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• 2004

The market demand for knitwear has been increased both domestically and in export. Despite of the high and consistent demand, knitwear design has been rather simple and tends to show mainly foreign influences. In order to compete efficiently in the world market and to provide more variety, knitwear design originated from our cultural background needs to be developed. Therefore, the purpose of this study is to develop various knitwear design adopting the Korean traditional 'Danchung' motifs and the main colors used in the motifs. Three knitwear works were designed and constructed, which included a round pullover, a half-sleeve V-neck one-piece dress, and an evening dress. The mainly used motifs consisted of natural motifs such as lotus, cloud, and motifs symbolizing good luck such as 壽 and 囍. The Original 'Dan-chung' motifs were stylized into different forms and colors, and this design work was done using CAD system including the 'Adobe Illustrator 9.0' and the '4D box Hi-Knit Program'. Based on the designed images created by the CAD system, an actual design works were knitted using different weft knit methods including a hand knitting machine and weft knit machine of the knitwear manufacturers. This study provided the possibility of knitwear design originated from the Korean traditional culture.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.4 no.2
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• pp.139-161
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• 2002

This study investigates the characteristics of Nordic sweaters works from a historical perspective. Specifically, this study deals with the following research topics: 1) development of Nordic sweaters, 2) the characteristics of Nordic sweaters industry according to the change of times, 3) the comparison of local knitting patterns, 4) the symbolic meaning of the designs in the Nordic sweaters and patterns. The results of the study are summarized as follows. 1. Knitted work developed mostly in Northern Europe, a cold area, and the barren, mountainous coastal areas where people frequently used woolen materials for clothes. It was also developed in Scandinavian regions which lead the fashion in modern days. Scandinavian knitting techniques have been diffused into the east coast of England and Northern Europe by Vikings. 2. Scandinavian countries are distinguished from other countries by their conservative but creative cultural tradition. Their knitting patterns are characterized by small geometric figures such as dots, triangles, squares, rhombuses, and crosses used often with stars and roses. Scandinavian knitting is also salient for its vertical stripes and simple motifs repeating at short intervals. 1) Norway ; Simple and geometric Norwegian patterns are classified into three groups of motifs: (a) the motifs of cross, diamond, X, and swastika (equation omitted). (b) the motifs of human figures, animals and birds, (c) floral motifs (especially eight-petal roses). Their use of color is also simple, and is limited to more than two colors. (2) Sweden ; Swedish patterns are colorful and geometric. They are characterized by features such as brocade, complex embroidery, and contrast of red and black colors. They also show Guernsey patterns. Initials and production years were knitted in sweaters which have different patterns in their trunks and sleeves. 3) Denmark ; The Danish pattern is the purl stitch knitted against the stockinette stitch. The technique is used to copy woven damask motifs. The patterns are seen most clearly when they are knit with smooth yarn. The Faeroe sweaters are the representative work of Danish knitting. Faeroe knitting, incorporates stranded pattern and is knit in the round, either with circular needles. 4) Finland ; Finnish patterns are similar to Norwegian patterns. Finnish knitted work show very colorful, variety and free-flowing geometric patterns. 5) Iceland ; Icelandic knitting shows original ribbon pattern. Lope sweater is the representative work. 3. The traditional knitting patterns not only carried symbolic meanings but also served as means of communication. First of all, patterns had incantatory meanings. Patterns were symbolic of one's social standing, too. The colors, motifs and their arrangements were very important features symbolizing one's social position or family line. People often communicated by certain pieces of knitted work or patterns. In short, the knitted work in the Nordic sweaters served the function of admiring the beauty of nature and symbolizing various meanings. The unique designs and colors of the knitted work reflected the characteristics of the culture those works belonged to. This study also turns our attention to the issue of how the traditional colors and designs of the knitted work can contribute to the development of modern designs, and by doing so, if makes us realize the importance of knitted works in modern society.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.9
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• pp.16-25
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• 2010

This study reinterpreted the formative design elements of traditional grate patterns to create new lattice patterns and come up with a design concept for fashion-cultural products that highlight the uniqueness of traditional Korean culture and its characteristic features. Methodologically, the computer design software programs Adobe Illustrator CS2 and Adobe Photoshop were used to make grate patterns motifs. and they were applied to scarves and again to blouses using a three-dimensional simulation technique. In this study, three basic motifs for a new formative image were set using graphical functions such as omitting, simplifying, overlapping, repeating and reducing shapes based on the images of traditional 亞-shaped, arched and floral lattices, and each motif was expanded to have two variations with different colors applied to them. The direction of basic motif design was set to fit for each of fashion-cultural items such as scarves and blouses. Basic colors for motifs were arranged to create a colorful and modern but staid image in pink, blue, purple, green, yellow and brown tones. Based on a developed motif, changes were made in blouse design with lattice patterns through a variety of effects such as repetition, rotation, cross-arrangement, and oblique arrangement, and three-dimensional simulation was used to bring the design to life. Scarf design employed and applied the existing motifs in an appropriate manner for design purposes and reconstructed them through such effects as repetition, rotation, compositional variation and gradation to express a gorgeous and refined image.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.4 no.1
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• pp.1-14
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• 1996

The purpose of the study is to analyze the dresses appeared in Nogultai. In the analysis of this study names and kinds of fabrics, colors, motifs, places of production and names of dresses were examined. In the study various kinds of fabric colors and motifs of fabrics were appeared in Nogulta. Also a variety of silks such s brocade, damask, plain silks, ra, silk gauze, hemp cloth, cotton cloth, wool and fur were found. Colors of fabrics were of blue, green, indigo blue, red, light blue, brown, yellow, black and white were described. Mostly cleouds, flowers and mixtures of floral designs were used in silk brocades, Walrus was motif the only animal revealed in silk brocade. Nanching, Hanchaw, Suchaw were famous production centers of silk damasks, silk gauge and silk ra. Also Shantung and Suchaw produced good quality plain silk. Various kinds of coats, waded coat, wadded short coat, inner jackets, vest trousers, winter cap were included. Also accessories such as belt, cap, boots, socks, money belt, pouch were described. In addition, cosmetics, cosmetic kits and names of semi precious stones were mentioned. Seasonal garments differed according to kinds of fabrics and materials used. Wadded coat, wadded short coat, vest, winter cap and wool socks appeared as winter wear.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.15 no.3 s.39
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• pp.297-307
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• 1991

The purpose of this study was to investigate the effect of physical type and age on preference for color and fabric motifs in women's clothing design. Color preference measures consisted of fabric samples in solid colors and drawings of clothing styles painted in colors. Preference for fabric motifs was assessed by printed fabrics in various patterns and sizes. All of the preference measures were devised specifically for this study. Furthermore, items on height and weight for physical type as well as age of the subjects were included in the questionnaire. Data were obtained by means of structured interviews and self-administered questionnaires from 588 women ($20\~60$ years of age) in seoul. Analysis was by chi-square ($X^{2}$), frequency, percentage, and mean. On color preference, a small but significant body type, height, and age effect was found on some types of clothing. Preference for fabric motifs was affected by body type; height of subjects was related to preference for size of motifs, and age was related to choice, size, and width of striped motifs. It was concluded that body type, height, and age are 1e3st effective in predicting color preference. Fabric motif preference was influenced more by age than by body type or height. Generally, there was some similarities in preference for lines and fabric patterns among slim body types, tall figures, and younger age groups as well as heavy body types, short figures, and older age groups.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.3
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• pp.304-311
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• 2011

This study selects camellia flowers as a material for design development and created patterns by simplifying the image of camellia flowers and combining it with a geometrical motif. It it applied them to various fields to develop design content for fashion cultural products that were Korean, modern, and competitive. For this purpose, this paper used Adobe Illustrator CS2 to turn the camellia flower into a motif and develop it into a pattern. Based on the realistic form of camellia flower, this paper set 3 basic motifs of new formative images, using graphic elements, such as omission of a form, simplification, overlapping, repetition, and reduction, and it also developed two transformed motifs by applying a different color to each motif. This paper repetitively arranged each motif in the background of a diamond shape, a square, and a circle, and it combined each motif with the patterns of marcel, stairs, and stripes, through which it expressed the combination of the geometrical patterns and the flower patterns. Through the application of repetitive and combined patterns of each motif, the enlargement and reduction of motifs, the repetition of motifs, the combined use of motifs, and the change in colors and layout, this paper used the motifs of various fashion cultural products, such as scarves, neckties, and T-shirts.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.4
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• pp.731-740
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• 2010

This study attempted to understand the value of traditional floral wall patterns reflecting the distinct aesthetic consciousness of Korean people and reinterpret the images of floral wall patterns in simplified forms. In addition, the study created new floral patterns to apply them to the design of neckties and scarves. In a methodological aspect, the computer design software programs Adobe Illustrator CS2 and Adobe Photoshop CS2 were used to make the traditional floral wall patterns motifs. Four basic motifs for a new formative image were set using graphical functions such as omitting, simplifying, overlapping, repeating, and/or reducing shapes based on floral wall patterns, and each motif was developed in two variations with different colors applied to them. Each of the set motifs was expressed in a repeated arrangement and in a modified pattern of 45 degrees. Necktie design with a floral wall pattern made use of the motifs developed through a variety of effects such as simplification, repetition, size variation, and gradation and the pattern modified at a $45^{\circ}$ for application. Scarf design employed and applied the existing motifs in an appropriate manner for design purposes and reconstructed and expressed them through such effects as repetition, rotation, compositional variation and gradation.