• 복식
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• 제60권7호
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• pp.47-60
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• 2010

The goal of this dissertation is to analyze various Romantic styles appearing in modern fashion based upon the 'Difference' theory developed by Gilles Deleuze. A new framework for analyzing the changes of dress style based upon the 'Difference' theory derived from Deleuze's theory and from his interpretations of paintings was developed. The characteristics that represent 'difference' in change of dress style are deformation and hybridization. They are derived from the Deleuze's interpretations of 'difference' represented in the paintings by Bacon. The aesthetic values of the Romantic style in the 19th century dress are subordination, sensuality, and maternity. And the formative characteristics of the Romantic style dress are suppression of body, fixed form, volume, and ornamentation. The formative characteristics of the Romantic style that have appeared since 1980s is analyzed according to deformation and hybridization and the results are as follows: first, deformation caused by exaggeration or emphasis in the modern Romantic fashion creates changeability of the form, destruction of the 19th century style, volume, and ornamentation. Second, hybridization by combining heterogeneous characteristic between times and genders (for example, the 19th century and modern times or masculinity and femininity) frees body from the dress and changes the dress silhouettes and ornamentation. Thus totally new and different Romantic style is created. The Romantic style in modern fashion changed into the appropriate style to the modern society under various conditions such as designer's will, postmodernism, changes of femininity and technology. It can be said that this is an example of the Deleuze's 'becoming' theory.

• 디지털융복합연구
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• 제12권1호
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• pp.563-572
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• 2014

아르누보는 예술을 새롭게 개혁하여 젊게 만들고자 하는 목적에서 출발하였다. 역사상의 양식 모방에 반기를 들어 삶과 주변 환경의 총체적 변혁을 포괄하는 현대적이며 시류에 맞는 양식을 요구하는 운동이었다. 장신구 또한 이전의 양식에서 탈피한 새로운 양식을 구축하고자 하였으며 소재와 재료의 새로운 시도와 함께 장인적 기술력이 강조된 섬세한 장신구가 선보였다. 아르누보의 양식은 유럽 전반에 각기 나라의 문화에 맞추어 다양하게 전개되었으며, 짧지만 강렬하게 20세기 이후 양식의 기초가 되었다. 아르누보 이후의 장신구는 산업과 예술 장신구로 나뉘어 발전을 거듭해왔으며 현대에 이르기까지 많은 발전에 영향을 미쳤다. 아르누보는 장신구를 재화의 가치를 넘어서 예술적 가치로서의 확립을 이끌었다. 아르누보의 다양한 조형성을 통해 표현된 심미적 장신구와 생산력과 기능성에 치우친 단조롭고 귀보석 중심의 현대 장신구 디자인과는 차이를 갖는다. 현대에는 개성과 자아표출을 중시하는 문화 예술의 시대로 창의적, 독창적인 디자인을 추구한다. 따라서 시대적 배경과 사상을 통해 표현된 아르누보의 다채로운 색상 표현과 다양한 소재와 모티프의 장신구 양식은 현대 장신구의 새로운 디자인 개발 과 디자인 흐름을 이끌어 가기위한 귀감이 될 것으로 본다.

• 보존과학연구
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• 통권26호
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• pp.165-188
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• 2005

From the ancient to these days, there have been used many kinds of pigment which have two types that are inorganic pigment and organic pigment. At the ancient times, natural pigment had been used but the artificially mixed pigment has been used in modern times. By the way, searching for studies has been studied recently, it would be said the ancient pigments such as Danchung, Wall painting and Mural painting are the mainthema. However, studies about the pigments used in modern pictured relics have rarely can be found. Therefore, this analysis of Ilweolokdo would be important at the point of the pigments used in pictures of royal family in modern times and the results can be briefly summarized as below; Firstly, the results of qualitative analysis of the pigments that base or all pigments of picture was detected components of Ca, Fe and As, this results meaning that picture was used filler and basic paint. Secondly, a result of the analysis on the composition elements of the pigments shows that the main components in their composition are ;White - Lead Cyanamide($2PbCO_3$.$Pb(OH)_2$) or Titanium Oxide($TiO_2$)Blue - Ultramarine($2(Na_2O$.$Al_2O_3$ .$2Si_O2$).$Na_2S_2$)Green - Emerald green($C_2H_3A_s3Cu_2O_8$)Gold - Gold(Au), Red-Red Lead($Pb_3O_4$) or Cinnabar(HgS)Black - Carbon(C)Thirdly, X-ray diffraction analysis of crystalline structure for the blue and green pigment peeling off in picture shows that the components of blue pigment is Ultramarine($2(Na_2O$.$Al_2O_3$ .$2Si_O2$).$Na_2S_2$) and green pigment is Emerald green($C_2H_3A_s3Cu_2O_8$). Especially, microcrystalline structure of the green pigment was the shape like a cross section of wood. Consequently, we knew through the analysis of qualitative and microcrystallinestructures seen on the cross section of analyzed pigments layer that the all pigments used in the Ilweoloakdo is possible to use synthetic pigments in modern.

• 복식
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• 제59권2호
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• pp.1-17
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• 2009

This study is to understand the characteristics of Korean Women's Jeogories in modern times on the changes of its color and coloration over the time. The research was that the characteristics of the costumes produced in modern times ($1890{\sim}2000$) can be categorized into six periods according to the change of times. 1106 women's Jeogories were researched intensively in order to understand them, the conclusions are following: When the Chi-Square Test is applied to conduct cross analγsis of the said six periods divided on the basis of relevant theories, it is found that there is just partial difference in the hues in1890-1959 while there has been a big change in the hues of all Jeogories since 1960. It also seems that such a sudden change In hues took place till the end of the 1970s but there have been no significant difference and no distinct changes in hues sin[e the 1980s. As for color tones, high luminosity and low chroma hues were mainly used in all periods, but low luminosity and high chroma hues have been frequently used since the 1960s. It indicates that the long-used conventional and traditional colors gave way to various colors which were freely applied according to the tendency of individualism In the selection of colors as well. As for the coloration, one-color arrangement was predominant in white clothes while the combination of main color Y and supplementary rotor R was overwhelming in two-color arrangement. After the 1960s, not just the five major rotors but diverse colors, including bluish green, dark blue, were used, even varied patterns for linings.

• 대순사상논총
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• 제39집
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• pp.69-97
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• 2021

'해체(解體, déconstruction)'는 현대철학을 특징짓는 속성의 하나인 창발성(創發性, emergent property)을 유도하는 개념이다. 고대 그리스 철학의 전통이 탈피를 거듭하여 개체의 자유와 평등에 대한 열망을 낳고 이로부터 르네상스와 계몽주의에 이르러 근대라는 역사적 방점 하에 철학의 종지부를 찍는 듯했다. 하지만 철학은 근대마저도 그러한 해체를 통해 그 이상의 가능성을 바라보고자 했다. 근대철학이 플라톤 철학의 인문적 완성으로 신과 인간의 묘한 동거를 꿈꾼다면 현대철학은 해체를 통해 그마저도 거부한다. 플라톤류의 고전적 형이상학은 절대자를 중심으로 순치된 안정된 체계이기는 하지만 결과적으로는 신과 종교를 토대로 할 수밖에 없고 인간의 자율성 또한 신 아래의 자율성일 뿐이다. 현대철학은 해체를 통해 인간 본연의 목소리로부터 철학을 시작하고자 한 노력의 결과 가운데 하나이다. 형이상학에 종속된 인식론이 아닌 인간 실존으로부터의 인식론을 구축하고 자유라는 말이 가질 수 있는 최고의 선을 해체를 통해 실현하고자 했다. 그렇듯 해체 또한 인간의 자유라는 근대적 화두의 연장선에 있다고 해도 틀리지 않다. 해체와 인간의 자유는 결국 서로 떼어낼 수 없는 하나의 몸인 것이다. 묘하게도 종교적 신앙성과 전통적 보수성을 주된 색채로 할 것만 같은 대순사상은 현대적 창발성을 가지고 있다. 대순사상을 창시한 증산이 활동하던 한국의 시기는 역사를 해석하는 예리한 시각이 있는 이들에게는 보물과 같이 중요한 의미를 가진다. 외세에 의한 답습이 아닌 주체적 문제의식 가운데 새로운 세상과 인간의 자유의 의미를 발견하려는 강렬한 염원에 의한 사상적 활동이 펼쳐진 시기이기 때문이다. 그러한 한국의 자생적 창발성이 낳은 비권력적 사상이 바로 흔히 말하는 한국 근대의 신종교인 셈이다. 그 가운데서 대순사상은 참동학으로서 증산의 명맥을 잇고 증산이 남긴 해원의 개념 속에서 근대를 넘은 현대의 가치를 현실 가운데 펼치고자 한다. 대순사상의 해원은 근대를 넘은 현대성을 담고 있다는 점에서 현대철학의 해체와 상통한다. 해원은 첫째로 단주로부터 발현된 인간 실존의 원초적 억압에 따른 근본 원(冤)의 해소를 의미한다. 두 번째로 대순사상의 해원은 인존이라는 해원적 실존을 중심으로 천지인 삼계의 해원을 아우른다. 데리다의 해체가 인간과 사회 내부에 잠재된 보이지 않는 구조와 속박의 틀을 드러내고 그것을 파기하는 것으로부터 억압을 풀고 인간의 근본 자유를 실현하고자 한 것은 대순사상의 해원이 천지인 삼계를 휘감고 있던 근본 억압을 풀어 삼계의 대립을 상생으로 개방하고자 한 점과 동일한 맥락이라고 할 수 있겠다.

• 복식
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• 제1권
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• pp.131-150
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• 1977

The new sense of costume is controlled by silhouette. The sense of the times is sensitively reflected in silhouette. For we can perceive the transition of the times through silhouette it is significant to know what course of changes the western costume, which almost became the international costume today, had been going through. I began with the definition and condition of silhouette in this study of silhouette. I took a general survey of silhouette study-ing various kinds of silhouette and the relation between the material and silhouette. I sought the factors which causec the changes in costume and also studies the process of the changes The process of the costume changes is studied by the order of ancient times, mediaeval times, mordern ages and present days. I selected one representative silhouette of women's costume of each period. The darpery form of the ancient time's costume became the tunic form and the tunic form became the tight tunic form today. From this we can perceive that the Gothic period was the limitation of westrn costume. It means that the ancient times was the period of drapery, the midiaeval times was the period of transition from tunic into tight tunic and the modern ages is the period of development of tight tunic. In Egyptian period thin materials were used for costume which was worn in exposed style. In Greek period the costume had the drapery style. The Roman's magnificent costume resembled the Greek's. The mediaeval costume was formed in Byzantium where the northern Europe style of costume was mixed with the gay oriental costume. The Romanesque and Gothic period followed the Byzantine period completing the midiaeval costume. Tight tunic is developed in modern ages. Italian fashion of tight tunic was the first fashion of the modern ages. Germanic and spanish fashion came after it. As Baroque period opened the French royal costume became magnificent and added Brition fashish to it. With the commencement of the modern ages the royal fashion came to an end. Modernages became peaple's period and the costume was simplified. After the First world wav designers and fashion books appeared with the development of technology. Thus the period of fashion industry came. For the designers in 20th country competed to create new designs, the fashion was changed year by year. The simplicity and practicality are not ignored in design, arid the designers added more atristic sense to dresses.

• Architectural research
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• 제11권2호
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• pp.9-18
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• 2009

This research started from the premise that East Asia - China, Korea and Japan - played a remarkable role in the development of modern architecture. In this study, attention is paid to the lack of a synthetic research about the influence of East Asia on European modernism as a counterpart to its influence on American modernism. Thus, the intention of this paper is to construct an integrated discourse on the East Asian contribution to European modern architecture. By analyzing recently published/presented articles on the related subjects, this study suggests how European modernists encountered the East, what attracted them to the East, and how they applied East Asian aesthetics in their designs. While a number of architects adopted East Asian formal elements directly, at times superficially, others extracted the underlying principles. As a whole, this analysis offers insights at several levels. First, it provides a balance to the view of the East Asian influence on modern architecture by providing an investigation into its influence on European modernism as a counterpart to its influence on American modernism. Second, the multi-faceted nature of modern architecture is further illuminated in this study. Third, an important example of "positive-Orientalism" is provided, which contrasts with the rather negative image implied by E. Said's 'Orientalism'. In conclusion, this paper provides a critical assessment of the fundamental motive of European modernists' adoption of East Asian aesthetics.

• 복식
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• 제51권5호
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• pp.147-156
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• 2001

The painting style has much influenced on the creativity of design in the developmental process of modern fashion. This fact tells that pure art and fashion design have the same purpose in the end. In this paper. the color Autonomy of Matisse was analyzed and how its result influences on modern fashion design was investigated. Matisse is, in fact. the leader of Fauvism and the painter who brought the Fauvism painting to its perfection in the purest state. Matisse achieved the revolution of new color with only the color in expressing formative factor. Matisse's color autonomy are fusion technique, flatness, decoration, simplicity, etc. To sum up the influence that this autonomy played on modern fashion design, intensive pure color expression, strongly-supplemented color effect among primary colors, decoration of color, simplicity of color, that is to say. he gave rise to the revolution of color, Many modern designers are applying this method to the theme of fashion and motive, color the technique of expression. Thanks to this. the new formative artistic expression could be adapted in fashion, and it also induced the inspiration of original design, with great contribution to bringing the era of its own distinct individualism in modern times.

• 복식
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• 제64권8호
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• pp.155-163
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• 2014

This study is designed to examine how the female body, as shown in Korean modern figure paintings, is expressed as an object for one's gaze and the meaning behind it. The study analyzed the entries displayed during the Joseon Arts Exhibitions from 1922 to 1944, for a total of 23 times. The exhibition entries are considered to be the representative sources in regards to the history of Korean modern arts. This study examined the artistic works, which portrayed the female body as an object for gaze. Literature research was conducted to look into the general background of modern society in Korea and the significance of the body as an object for gaze, and empirical study was also performed to analyze the female body in modern figure paintings. This research reveals how the bodies of modern Korean women were seen under the structure of power. It is believed that the process of criticizing and complementing the bodies of Korean women, which was distorted by Japan, may lead to an objective analysis of the aesthetic consciousness of the Korean female bodies.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제28권2호
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• pp.64-75
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• 2024

Clothing is a powerful medium that reflects the environment, situation, and trends of the times. It has been an important subject of semiotic analysis, particularly in East Asia. While Korea, China, Japan, and Mongolia are geographically close, they have each developed unique characteristics in their clothing. These characteristics continue to evolve over time. The purpose of this paper is to explore the modern fashion design characteristics of these four East Asian countries by using the Greimas symbol square. To achieve this, the paper follows a research method consisting of several steps. First, it considers previous studies on the topic. Second, it analyzes fashion collections from Paris, Milan, New York, and London, as well as the Seoul and Cruise collections, from 2013 to 2024. Third, it compares costumes and modern fashion designs of brands known for their East Asian influences. Finally, it applies the framework of the Greimas symbol square to analyze the main elements of dress culture in these four countries and their significance in modern fashion collections. The findings of this study reveal that East Asian costume culture can be summarized into four distinct characteristics in modern fashion. Korea is characterized by "moderation," China by "exaggeration," Japan by "distinctiveness," and Mongolia by "symbolism."