• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제13권6호
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• pp.934-942
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• 2011

This study was intended to analyze conventional grading increments and methods for middle-age men's pants, and to suggest new grading guidelines that will enable to improve satisfaction with size and silhouette as a result of combining the concept of grading, which help maintain the ratio and proportion by sizes as one of ready-made apparel's advantages, with body form oriented and aesthetic approaches. In the apparel industry, the current sizing specifications and methods adopted by relevant companies, as well as the characteristics of body forms of men aged 35 to 55 years were comparatively analyzed to find out problems and ultimately to suggest their solutions or improvements. It was considered that as the conventional grading practices used in the industry were customary on the basis of the past experiences, it was required to take the body forms of target consumers into account and also, to reconsider the conventional grading methods. Analyses of sizing and specifications by brands show that 4 to 19 sizes including 82 or 84 as standard size have been produced. Since men's apparel has a large number of sizes with the large range of sizes, grading is critically important. As silhouettes depend on the distribution of grading rule values at each point of increment pattern in the main regions during grading, it is necessary to consider both size grading and form variations. To maintain an appropriate silhouette with keeping the angle of center back line of a pattern, it is desirable to set the ratio of side line part to center part from the crease line to approximately 3:7. It is required to diversify the values of grading rules according to different sizes and pattern regions in consideration for the body forms of key consumers. In addition, if the natural lines of designs and patterns for the width increments of waist circumference and hip circumference, the increments of hip width in pant's front and back panels, the ratio of grading rule values of the right and left sides of crease line, knee circumference, thigh circumference and so on are taken into account, grading will be satisfactory in the all aspects of size, silhouette and ratio.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제16권4호
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• pp.107-122
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• 2012

This thesis takes it an aim to analyze and compare the visual images which results from attaching the voluminous changes of the waist gathering to the basic Sarrouel pants, one of the Islamic costume, and also from the three body type influenced by these changes. The method of the investigation was to select basic designs of the Sarrouel pants, then the three pieces of the experimental clothes called pattern 1(50%), pattern 2(100%), and pattern 3(150%) were made respectively. The 3 types of the adult women were selected as models in a way to represent the S(S1), M(S2), L(S3) the female body indices of the K. S. The models wearing the 3 types of experimental clothes were taken pictures from the front, side and back, which the pictures were used for the evaluations for the visual effects. For the evaluation, the questionaire from 12 to 18, associated with the body types and images respectively were completed and collected in an investigative way. The visual effects by the waist gathering and body size are composed body and image emerged the four factors. Conclusively, the volume of the waist gathering gives a benefit only in terms of the appropriateness in which the voluminous gatherings compensate for the defects of the body type while too much gathering leads to the negative effects. The visual effects from the increased gathering gives the impressions of the more activity with the snugness as it decreases the feminine effects. The evaluation indices like the stiffness or the masculine images might be more or less predominant in this case. This might be ascribed to the fact that the Sarrouel pants were originated from the men's trousers in a real sense.

• 복식
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• 제61권3호
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• pp.51-62
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• 2011

The purpose of this study was to examine the visual evaluation of image according to the style, hue, value, and chroma of the male clothing and the preference of image. A quasi-experimental method was used for this study. The first factorial design was the $2{\times}3{\times}2{\times}2$ (style of upper clothes ${\times}$ hue ${\times}$ chroma ${\times}$ color of trousers), and the second factorial design was the $2{\times}3{\times}2$ (style of upper clothes ${\times}$ value ${\times}$ color of trousers). The styles of upper clothes were a soutien collar casual jacket and a polo shirt. The subjects were 509 female college students living in Seoul. Factor analysis showed five image categories of men's clothing: initiative, dignity, politeness, activity, and mildness. Yellow was evaluated as having the highest initiative and activity. Blue was shown to have lower mildness than red and yellow. The high saturated chroma was perceived to be higher initiative and activity than low chroma. The shirts were evaluated higher in activity and mildness than the casual jackets were. The beige pants were perceived to be higher in dignity and mildness than the dark blue pants. The high chroma jackets were perceived to be higher in both initiative and activity than the low chroma jackets. The navy blue pants with the upper clothes in low chroma blue were perceived to be higher in politeness than with the upper clothes in low chroma red or yellow. The low value clothes were perceived to be higher in both initiative and dignity.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제33권6호
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• pp.990-1001
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• 2009

본 연구는 지각자의 성별, 의복, 헤어스타일이 남성의 전문성 및 선호도의 시각적 평가에 미치는 영향을 조사하는데 그 목적이 있었다. 연구방법은 준실험방법이었으며, 실험설계는 $2\times8\times2$(지각자의 성별$\times$의복$\times$헤어스타일)의 요인설계를 사용하였다. 자극물은 20대 남성의 사진 16장이었다. 의복은 베이지색과 남색의 테일러드 칼라 재킷, 베이지색, 남색, 빨강색의 점퍼와 스웨터였고, 하의는 청바지를 착용하였다. 헤어스타일은 길이에 따라 짧은형과 중간형으로 구분하였다. 조사대상자는 서울지역의 남성 208명과 여성 223명이었다. 청바지와 함께 베이지색 스웨터를 착용하는 것은 지성적 이미지가 높게 보였고, 빨강색 점퍼의 착용은 지성적 이미지가 낮게 보였으며, 베이지색 재킷은 역능적 이미지가 낮게 평가되었다. 남성의 짧은 헤어스타일은 중간형 헤어스타일보다 전문성이 높게 평가되었다. 남자 지각자는 여자보다 짧은 헤어스타일을 더 선호하였으나 여자는 헤어스타일 선호도가 유사하였다. 여자는 테일러드 칼라의 재킷과 수티앵 칼라의 점퍼에 대한 선호도가 유사하였으나 남자는 재킷보다 점퍼의 선호도가 더 높았다. 베이지색 재킷에는 중간형 헤어스타일, 빨강 스웨터에는 짧은 헤어스타일이 전문성이 높게 평가되었다. 남자 지각자는 청바지에 수티앵 칼라의 점퍼를 착용한 것을 청바지에 테일러드 칼라의 재킷을 착용한 것보다 더 긍정적으로 평가함으로써 남자가 여자보다 옷차림에 대해 보수적인 태도를 나타냈다. 또한 청바지 차림에서는 점퍼를 입고 짧은 헤어스타일을 한 남자가 긍정적으로 평가되었고, 재킷을 입고 중간형 헤어스타일을 한 남자는 부정적으로 지각되었다. 결론적으로 베이지색 재킷에는 중간형 머리, 빨강 스웨터에는 짧은형 머리가 전문성이 높게 보였으므로 의복과 헤어스타일이 상호작용하여 전문성 평가에 영향을 준다고 할 수 있다.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제42권10호
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• pp.173-188
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• 2004

Concerning the actual characteristics of Italian men's fashion design, the following conclusions can be obtained from an analysis of the works of Gianni Versace. First, regarding the use of patterns, existing patterns are enlarged, reduced, and transformed. Second, chosen patterns are closely examined and analysed before actual use. Third, the transfusion of unexpected patterns can be seen as the shapes of various combinations. Fourth, inspired patterns from art works or based on some exotic mood are also devised and used. Last, the selected patterns are used in an items of outerwear and innerwear. Furthermore, once a pattern is chosen, it is coordinated at the same time with a complete outfit of shirts, pants, suits, etc.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제24권1호
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• pp.54-66
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• 2016

This paper examines the transition of the Hungarian men's costume. Transition of the Hungarian men's costume can be divided into pre-eighteenth century, eighteenth century, and since the nineteenth century. Hungarian costume was derived from the Magyar who settled in Hungary in the ninth century. Hungry had begun to accept Western culture in the tenth century, so when the prototype of Hungarian costume was completed, it consisted of Dolman, Mente, pants, and boots combining traditional Magyar style with Western European style. In particular, Dolman shows the uniqueness of the Hungarian men's costume; it has a high, stand-up collar in the back center, closes on the left, has a right front plate with a diagonal cut at the waist, and a wide front closure. In the eighteenth century, Hungarian men's costumes played an important role in displaying national pride while living under the oppression of the Habsburg Empire. In particular, Dolman was worn as a uniform at the battle of independence (1703~1710). This dress of male courtiers became the distinctive style of the eighteenth century and then became the basic style of men's costumes. Since the nineteenth century, Hungarian men's costumes have acted as an means to promote the national consciousness of Hungary through the Citizen Revolution (1848), the War of Independence (1849), and the formation of the Dual Empire (1867). Looking at evolution of the Hungarian men's dress style, it reveals that resistance and struggles against other nations, a history of aggression, and living under oppressed are factors that impact on important clothing transitions.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제23권4호
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• pp.423-438
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• 2021

This study compared and analyzed the direction of Louis Vuitton creative directors Kim Jones and Virgil Abloh. Accordingly, 485 photos(251 Kim Jones, 234 Virgil Abloh) were collected. For data analysis, statistical and content analyses were combined. First, as for the overall design characteristics of creative director Kim Jones, complex colors, colorful barrels, tone-in-tone color schemes, H-line, plain fabrics, soft materials, heterogeneous material combinations, casual style. Second, as for the overall design characteristics of creative director Virgil Abloh, achromatic color, colorful tone, tone-on-tone color scheme, I-line, plain fabric, soft material, similar material combination, casual style. There were significant differences in color, tone, color scheme, silhouette, pattern, material type, material combination, fashion image, detail, trimming, top and bottom that differed in the creative directors' design direction. Therefore, it appears that Kim Jones has been directing the luxurious and unique men's wear through H-line, coat and slim pants, colorful color combination, soft material, heterogeneous material combination, plain fabric, and chic active sensibility. Meanwhile, Virgil Abloh is directing men's wear in a loose and trendy street mood through the I-line, jacket and wide pants, achromatic color, soft material, plain fabric, similar material combinations, and soft and sophisticated modern sensibility.

• 복식
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• 제50권5호
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• pp.53-64
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• 2000

The purpose of this study was to investigate the historical changes of western men's underclothes in the first half of the 20C and analyze functions and features of men's underclothes. This study was to utilize many literatures in the analysis of historical changes of western men's underclothes. In the 1900's, the attached collar was giving place to the detachable, and the coloured shirt for day wear was becoming accepted. The correct wear fur various occasions was given. Double collar was the favourite for day wear. The dress-shirt protector worn over the dress-shirt front. Men preferred to vest and pants in one as a combined garment. In the 1910's, underclothes were permitting freer movement, but what was still more significant was the glowing inclination to reduce the layers which covered the body. The new conception of decency which was beginning to appear continued to characterize underclothing the symbols of social rank, expect for formal occasion, were declining. For day the white shirt was being displaced by the soft-fronted shirt. In the 1927-1930's, Underclothes were reduced in number, extent and thickness. Underclothing had lost two of its original function : it no longer preserved the warmth of the body, nor did it disguise its essential shape. Both sexes discarded the use of white underwear, In the 1930's, men saw an increasing preference for the coloured shirt. Combinations became increasingly popular and the singlet were displacing the under-vest in the 1930's. All undergarments were very commonly in natural colours. In the 1940's, for evening dress. shirt was plain linen front and square cuffs. Short trunks reached to mid-thigh, had a front waist yoke with three button fastening. Underclothes were pursued ease and activity.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제33권1호
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• pp.1-10
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• 2009

The purpose of this study was to investigate the effects of the types and the colors of men's casual wear, hairstyles, and the methods of stimulus manufacture on men's image perception. The subjects were 360 women from the metropolitan area of Seoul. The clothing types used for the study were a sweater and a jumper(casual jacket) with jean pants. The clothing colors were beige, indigo, and red. Two hairstyles, the short and the medium length hairs, were compared. Two types of stimuli, the photograph and the computer simulation picture, were used. The results of the factor analysis disclosed five dimensions on men's image: neatness, individuality, ability, activity, and sociability. In general, the photograph stimuli were evaluated more positively in activity, individuality, and sociability than the picture stimuli. The sweaters were perceived higher in ability, activity, and sociability than the jumpers. The Indigo color was evaluated as neat. The medium length hairstyles were perceived as neat and the short hairstyles were perceived as sociable. The jumpers were evaluated lower in individuality in the picture stimuli than in the photograph stimuli. The beige and indigo colors were evaluated to be neater in the picture stimuli than in the photograph. When using the picture stimuli, the men's image wearing the sweaters with the medium length hairstyles were evaluated lower in individuality. When using the photograph stimuli, the men's image wearing the sweater with the short hairstyles were evaluated higher in activity. Men's image wearing the indigo jumper and the beige sweater with medium length hairs were evaluated as high in neatness.

• 복식
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• 제58권5호
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• pp.118-133
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• 2008

The basic costumes of the joseon dynasty such as pants and jackets were not particularly distinctive over the period in comparison to po. The coat that was worn over pants and jacket, however, had different forms in the course of the joseon dynasty. In this paper, I will analyze the changing style of pyeonbokpo, the daily costumes of Joseon man, which were excavated in recent years. Changes in the collar style were the most distinctive of joseon pyeonbokpo such as cheolik, dapho, aekjueum, jikryeong, daechangyeui, jungchimak, and juyeui. Although pyeonbokpo had double collars in the early joseon dynasty, they disappeared in the seventeenth century: a straight line also replaced by a curve for the collar perimeter. Front-adjusting of pyeonbokpo was very deep in the early joseon dynasty; front-adjusting became simple in the late joseon dynasty, resulting in the central positioning of a ribbon. The rectangular form of a gusset(mu) was stitched to the bodice through various pleats. Gusset patterns changed greatly into various forms in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, along with the ladder gusset form. The long vest(dapho) was half-sleeved and had a deep front adjustment in the early joseon dynasty; however, it did not have collars and sleeves since the eighteenth century. The waist line of cheolik had the ratio of 1.2 to 1 for the bodice to skirt. But the length of skirts grew gradually into the ratios of 1 to 1, 1 to 2, and 1 to 3.8 while the waist line moved upwards to the chest line. Sleeves of all po had a straight form but they gradually developed the tendency to widen towards the wrists. Later, sleeves changed again, having a wide rectangular form starting from the armpits. Cheolik was widely worn in the early joseon dynasty; however, it was worn less in later years. Instead, clothes that had slits such as dopo, daechangeui, and jungchimak were greatly available. These characteristics of the change in men's costumes enable us to measure the time period of excavated findings despite the lack of records for Joseon graves.