• 복식문화연구
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• 제12권6호
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• pp.918-932
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• 2004

Fashion is a product of form expressing the socio-cultural mood and aesthetic value of an age. Owing to development of the mass media and diversification of arts under the influence of post-modernism in the 20th century, fashion has been more briskly expressed to be presented to the people. With such basic conceptions in mind, this study was aimed at reviewing the fashion photography as visual medium. To this end, visual narrative techniques were analyzed and thereupon, Philip-Lorca diCorcia's fashion photography was examined. This study reviews such visual narrative techniques by dividing into visual and non-visual elements and thereby, examines the three-fold aspects of fashion photography expressions : Representative Level, Ground Level and Context Level. Also this study focuses on Philip-Lorca diCorcia's fashion photography in 'W magazine' which features portfolio form. This study analyzed the visual narratives shown in fashion photography and thereby, expand in diverse ways the fixed images of the conventional fashion photography commercials featuring beautiful models and exquisite costumes, and additionally, determined that fashion photography must be a kind of expression tool which could express not only the simple fashion but also the socio-psychological elements inherent in fashion.

• 복식
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• 제57권2호
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• pp.143-154
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• 2007

This study's purpose is how express gender image according to sex in editorial fashion photography. This study's objectives are the women's magazine Vogue, Harper's Bazaar and man's magazine GQ, Esquire published 2000-2005 within the country. The photography was classified with established a standard based on the precede studies. The photo is classified Gender image according to dress and its ornaments, model character and atmosphere by Sex Expression of femininity woman has exposure of body parts and emphasizing thin eyebrows and red lips, soft and mild image, modest and static pose. Man expressed femininity used ladylike color and pattern, erotic exposure of body and long hair style. Commonly emphasizing red lips, natural background of flower plant, S-line. For expression of masculinity man and woman are used masculinity item, short hair-style and thick eyebrows. And also emphasize square like chin and shoulder. Specially, woman used direct silhouette to conceal soft body curved line. The expressions of androgynous woman and man are colorful dress and make-up. Woman emphasized male face to show and man expressed soft image through hull of abundant material of fur. All two sex selected method that conceal body curved line and face to express sexless. Hiding characteristics of body and face make indistinct of sex. The gender is affected by atmosphere such as model and illumination background as much as clothes because of the editorial fashion photography.

• 미술이론과 현장
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• 제9호
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• pp.59-91
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• 2010

The Bauhaus educational method gave the strong influences on Modern Japanese art and design education. In the 1920s and 1930s, Japan allied with Germany and Italy politically and tried to receive German system to be modernized. The reception of the Bauhaus and Moholy-Nagy's photographic theory was one of those activities at that time. Japanese intellectual class went to the Bauhaus and studied there; Ishimoto Kikuchi, Nakata Sadanosuke, Mijutani Takehiko, Yamawaki Iwao and Yamawaki Michiko(Yamawaki Iwao's wife). Especially, Yamawaki Iwao studied about the architecture at the Bauhaus, but his interest moved toward the photography and the photomontage based on Moholy-Nagy's theory. He studied at the photography workshop of the Bauhaus presented by Peterhans irregularly. Even though Yamawaki Iwao was an architect, he wanted to be admitted as an expert for the photomontage that he particularly studied at the Bauahus as a Bauhaus member. He had presented many articles about the photomontage at the photography magazines in Japan in order to introduce it to Japan since he returned in 1933. Thus, Yamawaki Iwao is the important person when we look back the Modern Japanese design and art history. In Japan, the art and design systems are managed by the Bauhaus educational system until now, and it has become a kind of cultural legacy in Modern Japan; The university of Tama and The university of Tsukuba are the representative educational systems which are based on the Bauhaus legacy. However, Yamawaki Iwao had been concealed as a photographer in Japanese design and photography history until the retrospective discuss named by 'Bauhaus syashin(Bauhaus Photographies)' at the photography magazine, Deja-vu in 1995 and the retrospective exhibition titled as 'Bauhaus syashin(bauahustofografie)' in 1997. This study rethinks of Yamawaki Iwao's historical position while looking at the term as 'Bauhaus Syashin(Bauhaus Photographies)' used in Japan. It is very important to bear in mind Moholy-Nagy's wide variety of approaches to photography at the Bauhaus, but it is impossible to name it 'Bauhaus style'. 'Bauhaus style' is the international style in architecture, but that was never a Bauhaus style in photography. Eugene J. Prakapas indicated that the vague term of 'Bauhaus Photographies' in his article in 1985 as well. This study considers the historical background for the mistake of the term of 'Bauhaus Syashin(Bauhaus Photographies)' in Modern Japanese history, while looking at Yamawaki Iwao's photomontage faintly entering on the historical stage again to discuss the reception of the photomontage from him. In particular, Some of Yamawaki Iwao's photomontage presented as the wall photography in Japan during the Second World War, that was related to the propaganda of Japanese government. It had not been known well in the modern Japanese art and design history because it was related to a declaration of the Second World War by Japan. However, the historical position of his photomontage is very important for Japanese history when we rethink of the reception of the Bauhaus and Moholy-Nagys' photographic theory to build up the Japanese modern history. In the result, this study wants to discuss that the mistake of the term of 'Bauhaus syashin(Bauhaus Photographies)' in Japan is related to the interpretation for the the historical position for Yamawaki Iwao's photomontage in the reception of Bauhaus and Moholy-Nagy's photography in Japan.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제30권6호
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• pp.861-879
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• 2022

Simulacre means a copy of the original, an ostensible representation of someone or something. This study closely looks at the 2017 <VOGUE like a painting exhibition> hosted by the fashion magazine Vogue. The purpose of this study is to use both theoretical and empirical analysis to analyze the simulacre developed in fashion photographs inspired by famous paintings in the exhibition booklet. The booklet is divided into four sections: portrait, rococo, landscape painting, from avant-garde to pop art. It also contains 55 pieces comparing the original masterpieces to the works of 26 photographers inspired by them. The fashion photographs were analyzed using Jean Baudrillard's four stages of simulacre transformation: represent, denature, dissimulate, and replace image change theory. The degree of simulacre expression was indicated three times on a four-point Likert scale by five fashion majors, and the results were integrated and analyzed. As a result, in fashion photography, simulacre-due to the development of photography technology and the photographer's artistry-appeared in various ways; image denature was most preferred, followed by dissimulate, represent, and replace. This study shows that image analysis of fashion photo-graphs and applying the perspective of simulacre when creating artworks can be a way to obtain rich qualitative data in the future.

• 전자공학회지
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• 제39권10호
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• pp.18-24
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• 2012

• 건축사
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• 통권639호
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• pp.26-27
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• 2022

• 기록학연구
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• 제79호
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• pp.471-513
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• 2024

장준하가 창간한 『사상계(思想界)』(1953년~1970년)는 당시 권위주의 정부를 정면으로 비판하며 한국 사회의 지성인을 대변했던 월간 시사교양지다. 『사상계』는 다양한 시사 주제를 사진화보로 제작하여 사진을 뉴스밸류를 갖는 시각적 도구로 활용했다. 본 논문은 이러한 『사상계』의 사진화보를 기록물로 바라보고 그 가치를 고찰하고자 한다. 가치 평가에 앞서 『사상계』 사진화보의 전개과정과 특징을 전반적으로 살펴보았다. 그리고 사진화보가 담고 있는 주제를 본문 내용 구분을 기준으로 정치, 경제, 사회, 문화면 및 기타로 나눈 뒤 대표 화보를 소개했다. 기록학적 관점으로 사진을 바라보는 것이란, 사진이 단순 데이터 그 이상의 의미를 갖고 있음을 확인하는 과정이다. 『사상계』 사진화보는 1960년대 사회를 증거하며 주요 시각정보를 담고 있는 사진기록물이다. 또한 『사상계』 사진화보는 한국 잡지 기록사진(다큐멘터리사진)의 측면에서 사진사적 의미를 갖는다. 본 논문을 통해 『사상계』의 사진화보가 미술사의 분과 학문의 사진사적 가치를 갖고 있을 뿐만 아니라 사진기록물로서 기록학적 차원의 증거적, 정보적 가치를 충실하게 갖춘 한국 현대사회의 기록 유산임을 밝히고자 한다.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제44권1호
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• pp.159-168
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to analyse the types of expression of fashion magazine advertising using the Foote, Cone and Belding(FCB) GRID model. Consequently, this study examined the presentation of fashion magazine advertising. The fashion magazine advertising(771 cases in women's magazines, 120 cases in men's magazines) was classified according to the FCB GRID model. The fashion magazine advertising was categorized into high involvement-feeling goods(jewelry, accessories, bags, shoes, perfumes, men and women dresses, jeans, bathing suits etc.), low involvement-feeling goods(casual wears, imitation accessories etc.), high involvement-thinking goods(cosmetics, underwears, sports shoes etc.) and low involvement-thinking goods(hair goods, sports wears, undergarments etc.). A great of the fashion advertising consisted of photography and the emotional approach. Thinking goods placed emphasis on the functional value, whereas high involvement-feeling goods placed emphasis on the emotional value and low involvement-feeling goods on the fashionable value.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제2권1호
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• pp.1-11
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• 1998

In this study fashion illustrations published in American Vogue from 1960 to 1989 were investigated. Among the large number of illustrations published in American Vogue in this period a considerable number of illustrations was chosen: from 1960 to 1969 143 editorial illustrations and 333 advertisement illustrations; from 1970 to 1979 34 editorial illustrations and 168 advertisement illustrations; from 1980 to 1989 123 editorial illustrations and 81 advertisement illustrations. In studying those illustrations the main point was put in finding characteristics and the changing trend of fashion Illustrations. In the sixties editorial fashion illustrations were published mainly during early sixties. The Illustrations of Rene Bouch, Evelyn Marcil, Dagmar and Eunice Moore Sloane took the space of editorials. Among those Illustrators Bouch published most frequently. The companies such as Galey & Lord, Lord & Taylor, Bergdorf Goodman, Bonwit Teller etc. used fashion illustrations for the advertisement. The name Kenneth Paul Block, Babara Pearlman and Dorothy Hood can be found very frequently on the illustrations for those companies. Antonio Lopez too published in 1963 some advertisement illustrations. In the seventies the total number of editorial fashion illustrations diminished drastically compared to the number in the sixties. Antonio published in 1973 and 74 fifteen illustrations, Joe Eula published from 1976 to 79 thirteen illustrations, and beside them Mats Gustavson published in 1978 six illustrations. The number of advertisement illustrations decreased a little, but many companies used fashion illustrations for the advertisement. The illustrator who worked most actively were Block and Fred Greenhill. In the eighties editorial illustrations experienced a "Renaissance". New high-level illustrators appeared and new fashion illustration magazines were found. Antonio played a central role among illustrators published for editorials in Vogue. In addition to him 15 other illustrators including Mats and Eula with various styles worked for editorials. In contrast to the flourishment of editorial illustrations the number of advertisement illustrations decreased compared to seventies as a result of the domination of fashion photography in this area. Today only few fashion illustrations can be found in fashion magazines. The magazines are dominated by fashion photographs. However fashion illustrations will not totally perish from fashion magazines, because it still has some valuable functions in fashion advertisement. Those functions cannot be fulfilled by photography. Therefore fashion illustration will survive in fashion magazine but playa minor role compared to photography.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제18권3호
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• pp.261-271
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• 2016

The aim of this study was to gain an understanding of the element playfulness in fashion photographs related to openness and multiple significance in contemporary art. A total of 105 fashion photographs from US and UK Vogue magazine editorials and advertisements for the last five years were selected for the study. The photographs were analyzed in two main categories - the contextual element of themes, and the elements of visual expression; composition, models, objects and editing technology. The element of playfulness in the photographs were found to be divided into themes of infantile fantasy, social satire and situational dissonance, and elements of visual expression were found to express image distortion, expansion, exaggeration, reduction, and optical illusions. A photography type termed as infantile fantasy and social satire have descriptive characteristics and usually deliver the message by using models and objects to present a certain situation or express social satirical viewpoint and reflective attitude by using objects and photographic skills. A photography type termed as situational dissonance is characterized by immediately understood expressions and usually clarify the message by using a photographic technology such as editing the printed image or expect the model to express an exaggerated poses and ridiculous expressions, causing an optical illusion. Visually expressed and composed scene using composition, models, objects and editing technology is a specific character of photograph and due to the advances in computer editing technology it has been able to express the various playfulness.