• 복식문화연구
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• 제11권5호
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• pp.778-792
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• 2003

This study is to review, in the social and cultural context, the main causes for the sportism that prevails in modern fashion, and to analyze the typical expressions in the domestic fashion. Many factors attribute to the advent of sportism such as rapid development and cultural changes toward sports, increase in leisure time and abundant opportunities, new fashion materials resulting from new technologies, emerging youth culture and increasing preference for such culture, and the postmodernism. With this background, sportism, which has been appearing in the domestic fashion, falls into 5 categories as follows based on the type of its expression. “Urban Street Sportism” is affected by the new sports culture of urban young people, which is characterized such that body line is disregarded with over-sized garment in layered style without considering T.P.O. concept. “Romantic Sportism” applies colors, fabrics and details of romantic images to sporty items, or culminates the feminine and elegant sportism by using the sporty fabrics and details along with romantic items. “Vintage Sportism” is characterized by its well-refined, high quality expression of naturally worn for long time, which is affected by the postmodernism. “Urban Utility Sportism,” which is developed with such design factors as fabrics, styles, details and colors with emphasis on their utility and functionality, explicitly accommodates the changed modern life styles particularly in urban areas. Lastly, the military image, which was developed during the Iraq War along with simultaneous anti-war activities, and the peace messages, which deliver the mankind's hope for the world peace and social wellness, formulate the “Military Sportism”.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제23권4호
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• pp.604-615
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• 2015

The objectives of this study were to investigate whether heel height changes in the U.S. market occur in a cyclical pattern and heel heights show greater within-year variability over time. Heel height data from U.S. Vogue's spring and fall editions were analyzed over the time period 1950~2014. A total of 1581 pieces of data were measured in millimeter units using Adobe Illustrator and standardized by dividing the height of the heel by the shoe length through the curved sole line. To analyze the cycle pattern of heel heights, the yearly averages were standardized by using three-year moving average technique to average out the irregular components of time series data and give a better indication of the long-term fluctuation of heel height. To identify the degree of within-year variability of heel height, the standard deviation of the average measurements for a year was calculated, and then decade averages were drawn from the yearly averaged standard deviation. One-way ANOVA was conducted to compare the within-year variability of data in heel height over the time period studied by decade. The results showed: First, there was a trend toward higher heels from the early 1950s to 2011. Second, four cyclical movements of heel height were observed from 1950 to 2007, and heel heights gradually decreased after 2008. Third, the within-year variability significantly increased over time, especially after the 1980s.

• Fashion, Industry and Education
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• 제14권1호
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• pp.59-68
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• 2016

This paper identified the source of inspiration to cooperatively design a fashion collection from US undergraduate clothing design students and addressed how to implement team-based learning strategy to conceptual clothing design in class. Data was collected from the total of 51 students in a senior clothing design course at a large 4-year university in the US. The assigned project for this class was to develop a group collection under a same theme. Each student worked with his/her team member(s) to create an outfit and the entire class worked as a group to create a cohesive collection. The study showed that the sources of inspiration for the themes/concepts came from 11categories: historic era/old Hollywood glamour, shape/line/structure/architectural, fairy tales movies, nature/abstract, circus/mysterious, occasion/place, object, designer/artist, futuristic, culture, and various movies. To implement cooperative learning strategies in the clothing design class, a total of five class presentation/discussion sessions were held for theme/concept decision, fabric decision, design decision, test garment evaluation and design modification, and final products. Throughout the design process, team-based learning strategy promoted students' engagement and participation and inspired their critical thinking skills for making decisions within a team.

• 복식
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• 제52권1호
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• pp.21-36
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• 2002

The Miaos have their own unique and luxurious culture traditional and modern formed as they have experienced repeated fusion into and resistance against the Han Race or the Chinese in their long and old history. Taijiang County of Guizhou Provice, in which whey have been living, is endowed with natural beauty. Thus their culture enjoys abundant and diverse contents of artificial and natural character. Naturally, their costume reflects cultural and natural features in abundance and variety. This dissertation aims to investigate the artistic character of Miaos' traditional costume as reflected in patterns for their embroidery. As for the artistic character of the patterns for embroidery, the following were found. To begin with, the space in the Miaos' embroidery is, unlike the measurable three-dimensional space found in Greek art, unmeasurable and fantastic with its beauty, majesty and peculiarity. It is as if immersed in limitless space, they were in communion with gods and universe. Another characteristic is the use of image construction beyond mere imitation. Their mode of image construction was realistic in that patterns as a whole reveal an abstract form or meaning but separately they portray visual representations of concrete thins in nature. Still another is that sense of motion conveyed by the basic curve line is full of life. It was the result of using light rhythm breaking stereotypic balance and symmetry. Finally, the colouring was abstract, and a strong contrast between black and white was gorgeous and fantastic.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제2권1호
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• pp.167-186
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• 1994

The purpose of his study is to investigate the relationship between the business cycle and the fashion of silhouette from 1956 to 1992. Correlation analysis an regression analysis were used to investigate the relation of them. In this study, the coincident composite index was used as business cycle and change of skirt in length and width, collar and pants in width wee thoroughly checked through graphs and photographs. The results of analysis are as follows. 1. When the economy is to ascend, the skirts are short and narrow. On the country, when the economy is descend, they are long and wide. 2. The business cycle gives influence on skirts line and with, that is, about 18%, 33% of total changes. 3. In change of fashion, skirts length and width had significant positive correlation and they showed a tendency to move together. On the other hand, the change of collar and patterns in width have no connection with business fluctuation. 4. The change of fashion is affected by the movement of itself. According to analysis that includes the trend of skirts, about 50%, and 35% of changes in skirts length and width were decided by them,. and about 52% and 35% of change in collar and patterns width were decided by them.

• Biotechnology and Bioprocess Engineering:BBE
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• 제10권2호
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• pp.155-161
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• 2005

The inherent instability of metabolite production in plant cell culture-based bioprocessing is a major problem hindering its commercialization. To understand the extent and causes of this instability, this study was aimed at understanding the variability of anthocyanin accumulation during long-term subcultures, as well as within subculture batches, in Vitis vinifera cell cultures. Therefore, four cell line suspensions of Vitis vinifera L. var. Gamay Freaux, A, B, C and D, originated from the same callus by cell-aggregate cloning, were established with starting anthocyanin contents of $2.73\;\pm\;0.15,\;1.45\;\pm\;0.04,\;0.7\;\pm\;0.024\;and\;0.27\;\pm\;0.04$CV (Color Value)/g-FCW (fresh cell weight), respectively. During weekly subculturing of 33 batches over 8 months, the anthocyanin biosynthetic capacity was gradually lost at various rates, for all four cell lines, regardless of the significant difference in the starting anthocyanin content. Contrary to this general trend, a significant fluctuation in the anthocyanin content was observed, but with an irregular cyclic pattern. The variabilities in the anthocyanin content between the subcultures for the 33 batches, as represented by the variation coefficient (VC), were 58, 57, 54, and $84\%$ for V. vinifera cell lines A, B, C and D, respectively. Within one subculture, the VCs from 12 replicate flasks for each of 12 independent subcultures were averaged, and found to be $9.7\%$, ranging from 4 to $17\%$. High- and low-producing cell lines, VV05 and VV06, with 1.8-fold differences in their basal anthocyanin contents, exhibited different inducibilities to L-phenylalanine feeding, methyl jasmonate and light irradiation. The low-producing cell line showed greater potential in enhanced the anthocyanin production.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제14권1호
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• pp.55-67
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• 1990

This is a review on the longitudinal transformation of the Japanese trousers, which is prepared as a pre-study for the comparative analysis of the forms of Korean and Japanese folk trousers. The special traits of the Japanese trousers are found to be as follows: 1) The Japanese trousers seem to have their root in the Northern-Asian or Schithian culture. 2) While the ancient forms of Japanese trousers, esp., those of the 8C before include the same types as Korean folk trousers, the Medieval and Recent era trousers quite differ and transform themselves into the unique Japanese type. 3) All Japanese trousers can largely be classified into formal and functional trousers. Formal trousers play important role as one of the ceremonial wardrobe and are treated rather as an outermost-wear than as an inner-wear. 4) The formal trousers have skirt-like features with much fullness as are presented in many deep pleats, long crotch lines and long sashes connected to the belt; the femine trousers even omit crotch line. 5) The principal forms of Japanese trousers consist of I, $\wedge,\;\wedge$; the $\lambda$ form of Korean and Chinese type had never existed. 6) Varieties of the composite type of Japanese-Western style appear among the trousers of recent time.

• Biotechnology and Bioprocess Engineering:BBE
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• 제7권3호
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• pp.163-170
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• 2002

This report describes the use of a transtubular bioreactor to study the relative effects of diffusion versus perfusion of medium on antibody production by a hybridoma cell line. The study was performed with a high-density cell culture maintained in a serum-free, low-protein medium for 77 days. It was determined that the reactor possessed a macro-mixing pattern residence time distribution similar to a continuous stirred tank reactor (CSTR), However, due to the arrangement of the medium lines in the reactor, the flow patterns for nutrient distribution consist of largely independent medium path lengths ranging from short to long. When operated with cyclic, reversing, transtubular medium flow, some regions of the reactor (with short residence times) are more accessible to medium than others (with long residence times). From this standpoint, the reactor can be divided into three regions: a captive volume, which consists of medium primarily delivered via diffusion; a lapped volume, which provides nutrients through unilateral convection; and a swept volume, which operates through bilateral convection. The relative sizes of these three volumes were modified experimentally by changing the period over which the direction of medium flow was reversed from 15 min (larger captive volume) to 9 h (larger swept volume). The results suggest that antibody concentration increases as the size of the diffusion-limited (captive) volume is increased to a maximum at around 30 min with a sharp decrease thereafter. As reflected by changes in measured consumption of glucose and production of lactate, no significant difference in cellular metabolism occurred as the reactor was moved between these different states. These results indicate that the mode of operation of the transtubular bioreactor may influence antibody productivity under serum-free, low-protein conditions with minimal effects on cellular metabolism.

• 복식
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• 제23권
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• pp.5-23
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• 1994

This research has been made through analyzing clothes of human dresses and ornaments appeared in the Buddhist pictures which were drawn at the times of the koryo Dynasty. Clothes of the Korea Dynasty could be analyzed as below : First, as for Turban (Doogun), common people used Ogun, Doogun, Byunsangmo and Chaek. For clothes, the style of the era of the ear of the Three-Dynasty. That is , they wore long shirts with narrow sleeves and narrow trousers and skirts. However, around the years of 1320, shirts had no more belt but became to show a kind of ribbon which is called as Gorum , and length of shirts was a bit shortened between hip and waist lines. Second, as for officials clothes, a kind of Rhangkan was used through the Dynasty but after the years of 1300, Wonryukwan was also used. In the clothes, Bangshimkikryung was used and the royals wore full-dress attire which looks like a long gown. Under the full-dress , we can see two different which seems to be a kind of present under-water. Third, in public clothes, same type of Danryung. Holl, belt and shoes were used throughout the Korea Dynasty. In addition Line (Yeon) was remarkably used skirt was dressed under Danryung by middle of the Dynasty the skirt was replaced with trousers. For Bokdoo, Jeonkak bokdoo was mostly used at the beginning of the Dynasty , but in the end of the Dynaty a lowr-flap bokdoo was in the main current. Meanwhile , we can see that the Korea Dynasty had its own in dependence in the clothes although the Dynasty was much affected by the Chines Song Dynasty System. We can hardly find a Mogrian cloethes style in the Korea-Dynasty clothes. Fourth, in Queen's clothes, banbi and pyo were used and sleeves were decorated with birds feather throughout the Dynasty. Lastly , famer's clothes are quite similar to those of the Chinese Song and won Dynasties and a decorative line was used in official clothes. These facts make us have a presumption of our Dongii culture might be conveyed to the Chinese in the ancient times but much more research is needed to clarify.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제8권4호
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• pp.577-586
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• 2000

The objectives of this study were to develope slacks basic block to be used for improving the attactive silhouette and bodily fitness in ready-to-wear and educational patterns. The subjects were from 20 to 24 years old and twenty six body measurements were taken on the National Anthropometric Survey of Korea in 1977. The women in 20's think ideal body shapes are high stature, long legs, slander waist, hip, abdomen, thigh, ankle and light weight. And so it needs to be studied to studied to make slacks pattern which show slander girth and long length. The study was carried out by the following procedures. 1. Through the comparative investigation on the conventional slacks patterns of System M. Muller & Sohn, Secolli, 文化's in Japan, and Won-ja Rim's and the clothing experiment, the characteristics of every four patterns were found. 2. According to the center back slant, reflecting the change of waist circumference, thigh circumference, back crotch length, and the new suitable slacks pattern was achieved. 3. The sensory evaluation for appearance and comfort was applied to evaluate the new slacks pattern by comparing with the conventional slacks pattern. From the result of the sensory evaluation, it was found that the new slacks pattern was more suitable for appearance. 4. The new slacks pattern for women in their 20's were developed as follows ; The waist line came down 2 ㎝, the waist circumference was plus 2㎝ than originally, and the back hip circumference was larger 1 ㎝ than the front hip, the slacks length was created stature/8×4.9, the knee length was stature/8×2.7. The center back crotch length was interspaced 1∼1.5㎝ at the center front, and was at right angle the point which was raised 5㎝ at the side front. This size is not the absolute size but it helps to make the surplus on any other ready-made slacks for women.