• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.6 no.4
• /
• pp.415-420
• /
• 2004

The market demand for knitwear has been increased both domestically and in export. Despite of the high and consistent demand, knitwear design has been rather simple and tends to show mainly foreign influences. In order to compete efficiently in the world market and to provide more variety, knitwear design originated from our cultural background needs to be developed. Therefore, the purpose of this study is to develop various knitwear design adopting the Korean traditional 'Danchung' motifs and the main colors used in the motifs. Three knitwear works were designed and constructed, which included a round pullover, a half-sleeve V-neck one-piece dress, and an evening dress. The mainly used motifs consisted of natural motifs such as lotus, cloud, and motifs symbolizing good luck such as 壽 and 囍. The Original 'Dan-chung' motifs were stylized into different forms and colors, and this design work was done using CAD system including the 'Adobe Illustrator 9.0' and the '4D box Hi-Knit Program'. Based on the designed images created by the CAD system, an actual design works were knitted using different weft knit methods including a hand knitting machine and weft knit machine of the knitwear manufacturers. This study provided the possibility of knitwear design originated from the Korean traditional culture.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.14 no.3
• /
• pp.363-370
• /
• 2012

This study is for the development of fashion cultural products that simultaneously evolved with the contemporary use of traditional temple culture in addition, it analyzed the cultural products available in the Korean market. Methodology, this study conducted a literature review and empirical research. We targeted the cultural products carried at twelve web-based shopping malls for Buddhist cultural products and six souvenir shops in Korean Buddhist temples to collect data on those products in order to analyze the items, design motives, materials, and price ranges. The study results showed that interior items represented the largest portion of the targeted goods, followed by accessories/sundries, clothing/fashion items, stationery, and tableware. The most commonly used design motive was lotuses, followed by the images of Buddha or Buddhist Goddesses and Dharma. The most common materials include fibers, jewelry (such as gold and silver), wood, metals, ceramics, paper, and plastic. The most active price range was between KRW10,000 and KRW50,000, followed by less than KRW10,000 and KRW100,000 to less than KRW500,000. This study discovered the potential for traditional temple culture to advance it further in a contemporary manner and indicated the need to develop a wide variety of cultural products and emphasize its global acceptance.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.3 no.2
• /
• pp.131-139
• /
• 2001

The fashion designers in Korea can achieve the winning position in the competitive international market of fashion industry by adapting our own traditional beauty to the modem fashion design through the modernization of the Korean traditional styles. Therefore, this study attempted to analyze the works of the active Korean fashion designer, Lee Young-Hee, focusing on the subject how she incorporated the modem fashion with the elements of Korean traditional costume. In order to study this subject, both quantitative and qualitative research methods were used to collect and analyse the design elements of Korean costume used in the designer's works found from the major fashion magazines, FASHION TODAY, WWD, ELLE, BAZAAR, Marie Claire, Areumdown-Uri-Ot, The Beauty of Korea and FASHION SHOW from 1993 to 1999. The collected research data, 95 works, was counted and analyzed in terms of the formal characteristics borrowed from Korean traditional clothing items and their application techniques. Other aesthetic characteristics of her works such as color, fabric and pattern were also analyzed. As a result of the study, it was found that Lee Young-Hee has adapted many different kinds of major Korean clothing items including 'chima', 'paji', 'po', and 'chogori'. Also it was apparent to note that the formal characteristics of Korean traditional clothing items were successfully incorporated into her fashion design works expressing the beauty of oriental grace, naturalism, sophistication, and above all, the modem sense.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.9 no.2
• /
• pp.145-150
• /
• 2007

Recently, active movements are occurring to reestablish our own traditional Korean images in all levels of society. One of them is about Ordinary Hanbok. Academics and business sectors are endeavoring to develop comfortable and Korean traditional Hanbok designs and popularize them as well. Based on the facts, the study focuses on developing Ordinary Hanbok designs for women by applying Korean traditional patchwork in order to present handmade, humane senses. First of all, the backgrounds, history and preference of Ordinary Hanbok are discussed through literatures and precedent studies as study methodology. Then, the study is analyzing the formative beauty of Korean traditional patchwork that contains emotions of women in the Chosun Dynasty. After that, it shows Ordinary Hanbok designs developed for women by using checks, free style, and yeoiju patterns of the fabrics dyed with clay and Chinese ink that recently attract people in particular. The results are like followings; First, the limits that excessive transformation of Hanbok may cause the lack of traditional beauty can be covered through using a variety of images of Korean traditional patchwork. Second, diverse face configuration of patchworks has very unique geometric forms so to be easily applied to modern Ordinary Hanbok designs. Third, the sewing technique of patchworks also plays a role as a design factor as important as face configuration. Fourth, utilizing fabric pieces may result in various unplanned face configuration and help resource recycling. Fifth, it is possible to coordinate Hanbok with other ordinary clothes that people normally wear on. Sixth, using patchworks images can encourage developing more active and refined designs added with traditional beauty. Seventh, natural dying and fabrics are eco-friendly, which is good for human health and environment. Finally, more studies should be done on design development based on precedent studies about Ordinary Hanbok. Also, it is important to foster social atmosphere and circumstances where people accept wearing Ordinary Hanbok as our natural culture.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.60 no.1
• /
• pp.14-27
• /
• 2010

The purpose of this study is to analyze how the aesthetic characteristics of Brecht's V-Effekt is visually expressed of the costume in the Traditional Play of Korea, China and Japan. The method and the contents of the study were to refer to the antecedent studies and the related documents to peruse the characteristics of the traditional plays of the East and West, the origin and the concept of Brecht's Verfremdung and considered the relation of Brecht's V-Effekt and the Oriental plays, and then the researcher derived the aesthetic properties of Brecht's V-Effekt. This study analyzed how those qualities of the aesthetic characteristics on the V-Effekt are manifested on the stage costumes of Korean mask, Beijing opera and Kabuki. The aesthetic qualities of Brecht's V-Effekt are classified into symbolism, grotesque disposition, character of sing and dance, comicality. The symbolism in the traditional play costumes of the three nations is shown in the colors of the masks in Korean and the tone of the colors on the costumes and the make-up in Beijing opera and Kabuki. While the properties of bizarrerie and deformation coexist in masque and Beijing opera costumes in terms of grotesque disposition, Kabuki strongly displays bizarre grotesquerie. The character of sing and dance is visually expressed through the transformation of sleeves on the three nation's traditional play costumes; Masque on the Hansam and Chengsam, Beijing opera on the Water sleeves and Kabuki on Hurisode. The comic aspection is expressed in a humorous and comical way through the distortion and transformation of forms in Masque and Beijing opera but it cannot be seen in Kabuki costume. The study as above will form the aesthetic properties of the Oriental traditional play costumes and also it will contribute to establishing the identity of Korean mask costumes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.43 no.6
• /
• pp.891-909
• /
• 2019

This study uses a documentary survey, field survey and textile's characteristics to understand the history of the Punggi Viscose Rayon. Punggi's textile industry grew as people migrated from Pyeongan Province in the 1900s. Little is known regarding early production conditions, but documents show cottage industries in the 1940s made union cloth using silk and rayon. The Punggi weaving industry peaked after the Korean War and declined in the late 1950s. Punggi rayon at that time was mainly used for lingerie or lining, with miliary or polka dot patterns. The industry regained momentum when the power loom was introduced in the 1960s. Manufacturers also started weaving union cloth with synthetic fibers and rayon. In the 1990s, jacquard looms enabled the weaving of elaborately colored and patterned textiles for outer fabric that made Punggi rayon famous. Most Punggi rayon looms have developed in the order of manual handlooms, semiautomatic looms, Jokdapgi, to power looms. Looms equipped with dobbies or jacquard devices also changed from wooden dobby looms to wooden jacquard looms and then to iron jacquard looms. Punggi Rayon currently has its own trademark and tag, but lacks specific regulations on the blending of fibers.

• Journal of Conservation Science
• /
• v.29 no.3
• /
• pp.197-207
• /
• 2013

The gas acceleration test was conducted to identify the deterioration of Korean traditional textiles caused by $NO_2$. Total 20 specimens were prepared using 4 different materials (silk, cotton, ramie, hemp) after dyeing with 5 colors (undyed, red, yellow, blue, black). The specimens were exposed to 0.01, 0.1, 1, 10, 100, and 1000 ppm $NO_2$ gas in the test chamber at $20^{\circ}C$, 50% RH for 1 day. Optical, chemical, and physical evaluation was carried out after the exposure. In the case of Korean traditional textile, color difference increased at 1 ppm/day, $NO_3{^-}$ concentration, carbonyl and C-$NO_2$ functional group increased while pH decreased at 10 ppm/day and tensile strength weakened at 100 ppm/day. when it comes to undyed textile, alteration of color difference on silk and hemp cloth, $NO_3{^-}$ concentration and tensile strength on hemp cloth was remarkable. In addition, color difference on blue and yellow textile, $NO_3{^-}$ concentration increase of yellow textile and tensile strength decrease of hemp cloth & ramie cloth were significant. The results suggest that critical $NO_2$ concentration of optical, chemical, and physical damage on Korean traditional textiles are 1ppm/day, 10 ppm/day, 100 ppm/day respectively.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.66 no.8
• /
• pp.78-97
• /
• 2016

The purpose of this study is to develop textile pattern designs by utilizing the prototype of traditional culture extracted from cultural resources in order to establish a specialty strategy for local cultural contents. To achieve this, the study selected the Hyojaemunjado as source of Jeju traditional culture. Jeju's Hyojaemunjado is characterized mainly by the creative and unique formativeness of Jeju's character paintings. Character paintings often contained images related to the characters featured inside characters, or composed stroke with symbolic iconography. The main subjects of Hyojaemunjado were stories that alluded to the Confucian virtues. Therefore, the purpose of this study was to remind people of the real meaning of Shin(truth) by developing textile pattern designs, which borrows the tessellation technique for design, and the dominant characteristic of geometric abstraction. This study used theoretical research and empirical analysis. First, the study did the theatrical research on Hyojaemunjado based on literature and precedent studies, and then analyzed the style of expression and formativeness on the Shin character paintings through real analysis of Jeju's Hyojaemunjado kept in Jeju National University Museum. Second, based on the analysis of the style(three-tier composition) and formativeness of Hyojaemunjado, it analyzed the formativeness of the iconography about Shin, i.e. character types(semi cursive style, square style) drawn according to the symbolic meaning, palace, unknown flower, pheasant, tile fish and constellation. Based on analysis of the iconography, it stylized the motives that became available on the Archimedean tiling of tessellation, and then developed the textile pattern designs by arranging the iconographic motives with Platonic tiling and Semi-tiling. The reason why this study borrowed tessellation was to create various visual effects using the size of angle, symmetry and change and joint with simple figure.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.6 no.1
• /
• pp.23-31
• /
• 2004

The purpose of this study is to analyze the satisfaction, practical use, preference in design and recognition of the Saenghwalhanbok in the adult females living in Gyeongnam province. The data used for this study were collected by questionnaires and 420 questionnaires were used for statistic analysis. The data were analyzed by using the SPSS 8.0 to perform the ANOVA, $X^2$-test, t-test. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; Most women have Saenghwalhanbok for wearing in festive days. who showed good impression on the Saenghwalhanbok is high-educated people, and high-incommer showed positive preference as well. The color of blouse and skirt is different each other. The most preference color is soft color. The purchasing behavior on the Saenghwalhanbok was verified that there are planning of purchase because of convienience in wearing. The primary reason for not buying Saenghwalhanbok is price. So the goods of various level of price should be prepared, and the preference factors of purchasing for younger ages were color, patterns and design, and for old ages were quality of clothes, colors and patterns. Major application of the Saenghwalhanbok was found that wearing for festive days as it is Korean traditional costume.

• Fibers and Polymers
• /
• v.4 no.4
• /
• pp.215-221
• /
• 2003

A vertical skin model with two detachable environmental chambers was developed to simulate a Human-Clothing-Environment system and to evaluate heat and moisture transport properties of textile materials under severe conditions and during transient states. The construction of the system was described and data reproducibility and accuracy of the instrument were verified by using PEG treated nonwovens. Also advantages over a traditional static type experiment were demonstrated based on a series of experiments.