• 제목/요약/키워드: Korean traditional costume industry

검색결과 144건 처리시간 0.019초

조선시대 규방문화와 침선소품에 관한 연구 (A Study on the Kyubang Culture and Sewing Craft-works in the Chosun Dynasty)

  • 이미석;이선재
    • 복식
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    • 제52권8호
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    • pp.87-98
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    • 2002
  • Recently, we consist in the crucial juncture have to develope culture goods which is worth standing for our nation's endemism. In this vein, this study tried to reproduce and apply it to the present time by the consideration of various elements such as the kind, the use and the fabrication of sewing craft-works was beloved in women's quarter called Kyubang in the Chosun dynasty. With this, this study was designed to develope craft-works which can make an appeal to foreigners with the merits between contemporary factor and traditional factor. The findings of this study were as follows; First, since economic system in the Chosun dynasty was based on home handicrafts and self-sufficiency, it was a commonplace of the Chosun dynasty that home industry such as sewing, spinning and sericulture was thriving among all the women without social ladder. And also, since women of the day were governed by confucian tradition and moral obligation, they mainly have to live in women's quarter called Kyubang restricted to visitors. For the reasons, Wives of the time have no choice but to spend their time by sewing in the promotion of virtues for woman. In additions, they made an effort to pray for the longevity, the wealthy and the fertility of their family members. Second, the sewing instruments is necessary for women's sewing. And also, since sewing instruments was considerably scientific, efficient in those shape and structure, this instruments could save wives a lot of trouble. Third, since many people were convinced of the functions as practicality as well as fanciness, the sewing craft-works were very useful to them in leading their daily life. Fourth, the reappeared works were a total of 22, and the applied works were a total of 17.

조각보 의미 분석을 통한 문화상품 개발 방안 (A Suggestion for the Development of Cultural Products through the Analysis of the Significance Patchwork Wapping Colthes (Jogakbo))

  • 김여경;홍나영
    • 복식
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    • 제59권3호
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    • pp.145-156
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    • 2009
  • This study proposes the product development through an organic link with multi-faceted analysis on the archetype of traditional costumes culture. In order to find ways to develop cultural products, Jogakbo was selected, and the research result is as following. 1. Analysis on the types of Jogakbo products sold in the market shows that there are not only living, stationary, and fashion items, but also DIY packages. In terms of materials used, most of these Jogakbo products were made of fabric or mixture of different materials. These products displayed similar tendency by reflecting formative characteristics of Jogakbo. 2. This study analyzed the color, surface composition, material, manufacturing, and usage of Jogakbo. The rotor of Jogakbo is mostly composed of mono tone colors or Obangsac(five-element colors). The mono tone colors carries environmentally friendly meaning as it is using the natural color and Obangsac means harmony. Moreover, the surface composition of Jogakbo represents the expansion through connection and its material is also meaningful in that it is recycling. Manufacturing of Jogakbo has educational significance, fortune-wishing characteristics, decorative function, it also gives a gratification of handcraft. The usage of Jogakbo is a multi-(unctional article whose form is determined by an item that is held inside it. 3. Through the analysis on Jogakbo, this study presents the baby wear in relation to the ere-friendliness of colors, brooch sets using the surface composition, dresses using recycling fabric, children's educational instruments with educational significance, as well as multi-functional packages in regards to usage of Jogakbo.

융(Jung)의 아니마(Anima) 원형에 따른 남성 뷰티스타일 연구 - 남성 화장품 광고를 중심으로 - (A Study on the Characteristics of Male Beauty Style according to the Anima Archetype of Jungian Theory - Focusing on Men's Cosmetic Advertisements -)

  • 정혜경;곽태기
    • 복식
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    • 제61권3호
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    • pp.36-50
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    • 2011
  • The traditional masculinity has been gradually diversified towards the 21th century due to a new social environment. Men embrace his feminine side with heightened aesthetic sense using cosmetic products for better skin, hair, and nails. This diversification of male image and his beauty style proves the addition of feminity to masculinity. C. G. Jung felt that we are all really bisexual in nature. The anima is the female aspect present in the collective unconscious of men and it is the archetype through which we communicate with the collective unconscious generally, and it is important to get into touch with it for self-realization. This study analyzes subconscious desire based on the anima archetype in the collective unconscious of men through the diversity of the gender identity shown in men's cosmetic advertisements, and therefore it aim to help developing a marketing strategy of male beauty industry in the future. For this purpose, it conducted an empirical analysis of male beauty style in cosmetic advertisements through the Jungian anima theory. The conclusion of this study is as follows: First, gender identity represented in cosmetic advertisements was typified as Retrosexual, Ubersexual, Metrosexual, Cross sexual. Second, the anima archetype stimulates feminity in male beauty style. Cross sexual type has the highest feminine tendency. Third, range of utilization of cosmetic products is articulated with the diverse gender identity. Cross sexual type is most similar to the female beauty style. This feminization of male beauty style is the external expression of collective unconscious and affords human being to reach self-realization.

패션디자인에 나타난 개념미술의 표현적 특성 - 후세인 샬라얀(Hussein Chalayan)과 마틴 마르지엘라(Martin Margiela)의 작품을 중심으로 - (A Study on the Expressive Characteristics of Conceptual Art in Fashion Design - With a focus on the works of Hussein Chalayan and Martin Margiela -)

  • 김로운;남궁윤선;황선진
    • 복식
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    • 제63권2호
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    • pp.55-67
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    • 2013
  • The root of cultural and artistic diversity of modern society goes hand in hand with the appearance of new art concepts that started during the social and cultural turmoil. These concepts crossed the boundaries of traditional and universal aesthetic concepts and value criteria. Since there is a close relationship between the fashion industry and the cultural flow of its times, the purpose of this study is to investigate the influences and applications of conceptual art, which became one of the big frameworks of contemporary art on fashion. The study thus sets out to develop and analyze the collections of Hussein Chalayan and Martin Margiela, who were fashion designers that pursued conceptual and ideal values, from the perspective of conceptual art. The goal was to examine the conceptual thoughts they sought after, and to understand their expressive determinations that they pursued conceptually as well as the superficial formativeness of their works. The characteristics according to the expressive methods and conceptual intentions of conceptual art that specified concepts and ideas were as follows: readymade symbolized objects, expanded intervention, data form from process of changing and implementation, and language as visual metaphors. Then those characteristics of conceptual art were used in this study to analyze the collections of Chalayan and Margiela. As a result, both designers applied and mixed many characteristics of the expressive methods of conceptual art. In modern society, art and fashion share a cultural identity and it can be said that it is an accurate reflection of the time. They are not separate genres. Just like the unique flow of modern society that creates new concepts through mixture and infusion of different disciplines, fashion is included in the domain of art. In addition, understanding and studying other disciplines can make a huge contribution to the growth and development of fashion.

멤피스(Memphis)디자인이 현대 패션에 미친 조형적 특징에 관한 연구 -20세기말을 중심으로- (A Study of the normativeness on the Influence of the Memphis on the Comtemporary Fashion Design - Focused on the End of the 20th Century -)

  • 임영자;한윤숙
    • 복식
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    • 제51권1호
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    • pp.5-20
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    • 2001
  • The purpose of this study suggest the fashion of communication for 21th century fashion. Especially, Memphis fashion have the possibility of communicating through objects. The results of this study are as follows : First, Memphis idea is to make design into a sophisticated, conscious instrument of communication. As the Memphis fashion points out : design is an extraordinary tool for communicating because its intrinsic characteristic is the fact that it is used and distributed anyway, even without communicating anything. The Memphis fashion is trying to connect design and industry to the broader culture within which fashion moves. Second, Using different materials provides not only new structural Possibilities. but - above all - new semantic and metaphoric possibilities, order modes of communication, another language, and even a change of direction, broadening of perspective, appropriation and digestion of new values and the concomitant rejection of traditional structures that renewal always Involves. The memphis fashion works on the fabric of contemporaneity (lurex yarn, latex, chrome metal and steel) and contemporaneity means computers, electronics, a new awareness of the body. mass exercise and tourism. Third, color in Memphis has never been an ideological vehicle. As with decoration it is born tilth the design, forming an integral part of the structure. It alters the objects molecules. It works as a mass, as an intrinsic feature of a certain form and volume. The Memphis fashion was realized the introduction of ultramodern science into such experimental and creative implementation as optical motive, brilliancy of colour of electronic medium in audition to metallic fabric and high technical synthetic fiber. A color tilth pop culture connotations that weaver between technological allusions and Mcdonald's.

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융(Jung)의 아니무스(Animus) 원형에 따른 여성 메이크업.헤어스타일 연구 - 화장품 광고를 중심으로 - (A Study on the Characteristics of Women's Make-up and Hair Style according to the Animus Archetype of Jungian Theory -Focusing on Cosmetic Advertisements-)

  • 정혜경;곽태기
    • 복식
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    • 제61권6호
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    • pp.86-100
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    • 2011
  • The traditional feminity has gradually been diversified in the 21th century due to a change in the society. This diversification of women's images and styles is derived from the addition of masculinity to feminity. C. G. Jung insist that human being is bisexual in nature. Animus is the male aspect in the women's collective unconscious and it is the archetype through which we generally communicate with the collective unconscious. It is also important to get into touch with the collective unconscious for self-realization. This study analyzes subconscious desires based on the Animus archetype in the collective unconscious of women through the diversity of the gender identity shown in cosmetic advertisements. Therefore this study aims to suggest a marketing strategy for the women's beauty industry in the future. For this purpose, this study conducts an empirical analysis of women's make-up and hair style in cosmetic advertisements through the Jungian Animus theory. The conclusion of this study is as follows: First, gender identity represented in cosmetic advertisements was classified into Mother/Wife, Hetaira, Mediale and Amazon. Second, the Animus archetype stimulates masculinity in women's make-up and hair style. Third, range of utilization of cosmetic products is articulated with the diverse gender identity. This masculinization of women's beauty style is the external expression of collective unconscious and affords human being to reach self-realization.

1920년대 소비에트 구성주의 패션에 관한 연구 (A Study on Soviet Constructive Fashion in 1920s)

  • 조윤경;금기숙
    • 복식
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    • 제36권
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    • pp.183-203
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    • 1998
  • The wave of Avant-garde swept away all in the unique social background so called 'October Revolution' and the early 1900 Russian society which was able to absorb and accept anything. The Russian avant-garde has been affected by the Cubism and the Futurism those had peculiarly appeared in the early twentieth century, spreaded out to three spheres: the Suprematism, the Rayonism and the Constructivism. The Russian Constructivism has appeared in this background, concretely and ideally ex-pressed the ideology of the revolution into the artistic form and made an huge influence to the whole Russian society. The Constructivist like Tatlin, naum Gabo, Pevaner, Rodchenko, Stepanova, Popova and Exter gave great effect on the Soviet Constructive fashion design in 1920's after the Revolution. The Soviet costume in 1920s hold in common the characteristicss of the Constructive graphic as it is, geometrical and abstractive form, energetic and motility. In fashion design, these graphic qualities have been showed as the application of geometrical form and architectural image, physical distortion and transformation. And in textile design, the simple, dynamical presentation has been appeared. We can classify the Soviet costume at this time into three occasions. The first term is from late 1910 th mid 1920, and it is altered from folk costume design to modern one. With Lamanova as the first on the list, using the folk mitif, the Constructive expression of simple form has been gradually revealed in design. Designers like Makarova, Pribylskaia and Mukhina produced the plane, simple chemise style with the decoration of the Russian traditional motif. From early to late 1920 is the second term, and it is at the pick of the most active processing of the Constructive design. Not only at the costume in daily life but also at the theatrical costume and textile, the con-structive design has been represented all avail-able fields. Many Constructivists including Stepanova, Popova, Exter and Rodchenko took part in the textile design and costume design so as to evlvo their aesthetic concept. The third term is from late 1920 to early 1930. The socialistic realism has dominated over the whole culture and art, the revolutionary dynamic motif has been presented also in textile design. The formative features of Soviet Constructive fashion design are; silhouette, from, motif, color and fabric. The first, the silhouette : a straight rectangular silhouetted has been expressed through the whole period and a volumed one with distorted human body shape has introduced in the theatrical costume design. The second, the form: many lengthened rectangular forms have been made at beginnings, but to the middle period, geometrical, architectural forms have been more showed and there are energy and movement in design. At the last period, only a partial feature-division has been seen. The third, the motif; no pattern or ethnic motif has been partly used at beginnings, a figure like circle, tri-angle has gradually appeared in textile design. At latter period, a real-existent motif like an airplane has been represented with graphing and simplicity. The fourth, the color ; because of insufficient dyeing, neutral color like black or grey color has been mainly covered, but after middle term, a primary color or pastel tone has been seen, contrast of the fabric; without much development of textile industry after the Revolution, thick and durable fabrics have been the main stream, but as time had going to the last period, fabrics such as linen, cotton, velvet and silk have been varously choesn. At the theatrical costume, new materials like plastics and metals that were able to accentuate the form. The pursuit of popularity, simplicity and functionalism that the basic concept of Constructive fashion is one of the "beauty" which has been searching in modern fashion. And now we can appreciate how innovative and epochal this Soviet Constructive fashion movement was.ement was.

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A Study on the Comfort and the Patternmaking Method of Leggings Pants

  • Park, Sanghee;Park, Jinhee
    • 패션비즈니스
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    • 제17권3호
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    • pp.85-98
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    • 2013
  • Fabric industry has been developing enough to introduce diverse stretch materials to apparel market, so that tightly fitting leggings designs are taking over not only sports wear but also women's clothing. This study is aimed at developing prototype designs for leggings pants using stretch material that are appropriate for the lower part of body being functional, comfortable, and beautiful. As well, the study is intended to be of a reference in manufacturing such products. Some of the most popular leggings on the market in their kinds and materials were primarily selected to be tested in two ways: wear test and appearance test. Again, the test pants went through the same kinds of two tests, which turned out two designs. Finally, the test pants were treated to yield the most desirable prototype design. In conducting all these tests, some major defects causing discomfort and shortcomings of the leggings pants on the market were exposed and through the wear tests, the drawbacks were seen to be complemented in a big way. Thus, it is hopefully expected that this study will serve as a good reference for developing stretch pants.

Comparison Research on the Patterns of No-Tuck Slim-Fitting Slacks for Young Men in Their 20s

  • Park, Sanghee;Lee, Eunhye
    • 패션비즈니스
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    • 제19권3호
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    • pp.101-112
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    • 2015
  • Because young men's slacks are becoming more slim-fitting today, this study attempts to identify room for improvement by comparing and analyzing the patterns of men's slacks in the literature and those of manufacturers. Selected for the study are two patterns from the literature and one from manufacturers (Slacks A, B, C); those from studies are slim silhouette pants with no tucking around the waist at the front. Subjects for the Fit tests and the pattern designs were men in their twenties with average body shapes in accordance with the figures in Size Korea 2010. Pants were made from muslin fabric and the Fit tests were carried out with three subjects and a panel of five experts to evaluate comfort and appearance. The analysis of the patterns revealed that Slacks A were the longest followed by C and then B. Slacks C had the most girth ease, and Slacks B were the slimmest in both length and girth. Movement tests showed Slacks A to be the most comfortable followed by B and then C. The appearance test found that Slacks B were the most attractive, followed by A, and then C. The fits at the front, back and sides of all three pants were more or less the same. We suggest that more studies be done on pants patterns adjusting them for proper ease and using elastic fabric in order to maintain the slim fit and also to be comfortable to wear.

소귀나무 수피(양매피) 추출물을 이용한 견직물의 염색성과 기능성 (Dyeability and Function of Silk Fabrics Using Myrica Rubra rind Extract)

  • 이정은
    • 한국의류산업학회지
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    • 제20권5호
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    • pp.608-615
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    • 2018
  • The purpose of this study is to investigate the dyeability and functional properties of dyed fabric with the extract of Myrica rubra rind. For this purpose, the ultraviolet and visible spectra of the bark extracts were investigated. The dyeing temperature, dyeing time, mordant type, mordanting order, mordant concentration and dyeability were investigated. The color fastness based on washing, dry-cleaning, rubbing and light were evaluated by the types of Myrica rubra rind extract used. In addition, the deodorization and antibacterial activity were measured, and the functionality of the silk fabric dyed with the extract of the Myrica rubra rind was evaluated. The result shows that the color strength of the dye was excellent when the Myrica rubra rind was dyed at $80^{\circ}C$ for 80 minutes. The mordant dye color strength was high in the order of Fe mordant> Cu mordant> Al mordant. The dyeability of Al and Cu mordant was high during pre-mordanting compared to Fe mordant, and the dyeability of Fe mordant was high during post-mordanting than Cu and Al mordant. The deodorant property of the dyed fabric stained with the Myrica rubra rind extract was 92.4% and that of antibacterial property was 99.9% for Staphylococcus aureus and Klebsiella pneumoniae bacteria respectively.