• Title/Summary/Keyword: Korean traditional costume industry

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Traditional Chinese Medicine and its Application for Fashion Design

  • Kim, Hye-Eun
    • International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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    • v.9 no.2
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    • pp.35-48
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    • 2009
  • Therapeutic garments are an undeveloped area and yet they have the potential to generate considerable profit for the fashion industry. In traditional Chinese medicine, there are spots and pathways on the body through which energy flows and practitioners consider that disease results when this energy flow is hindered. Clothes which stimulate the spots can therefore potentially help to cure disease. In addition, clothes are worn every day and can therefore offer prolonged treatment certainly in comparison with other treatments. Obesity is a big problem nowadays and one which is caused by poor energy circulation (according to TCM). A garment which stimulates the spots can assist energy flow and therefore cause the wearer to lose weight. In the process, it can also alleviate side effects of obesity such as diabetes and high blood pressure. The was to stimulate spots include acupuncture, acupressure, moxibustion etc. There are lots of products to press spots which improve energy flow both in the Western and Chinese markets. The basic principle of circulation is in fact the same in both Western and Chinese medicine. However, most of these are products are footwear ones because they can easily provide the necessary stimulation to reduce tiredness and improve circulation. For garments, to press the spots effectively it is best to use tight clothes such as corsets and leggings. The important point is to tighten the body and to make energy flow and yet feel comfortable at the same time. Choice of fabric is therefore an important issue. Although the idea has been introduced, it will be necessary to develop a technique which will allow the necessary amount of pressure to be applied. It could be concluded that this area has a lot of possibility for the future but further research will need to be done before the idea becomes workable.

A Study on Present Status of Preferences in the Choice of Patterns in Clothing (의복문양(衣服紋樣)의 기호도에 관한 실태(實態) 연구(硏究) - 한복(韓服)을 중심(中心)으로 -)

  • Kim, Eun-Ju
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.6
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    • pp.65-87
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    • 1982
  • 1. Purpose: The purpose is to apply and adapt ancient textile pattern to practical life, and to contribute to the promotion of the creative development of modernization and Koreanization of textile pattern by the survey of the extent of taste for the textile pattern existent in Korean costume among costumes. 2. Hypothesis: Textile pattern is in most classical one expressed in fact, but nowadays abstract or geometric one is more exist. Consumers are in most part in forties, and so the taste cannot be ignored. Therefore aesthetic consciousness found Korean costume is more important rather than excessively bold or mordern one. 3. Method and Process: (1) This research is analysed 386 one through college student and parents of a primary or high school. (2) Taste of the pattern is comparisoned and analyzed as age. education, pocket money of the student or an income of a month in home through computer. And the analysis of the statistics research is operation through the Chi-Square Goodness of-Fit-Test. 4. Conclusion: (1) The Korean costume put on mostly party or formal dress, therefore it should be researched as an outdoor dress with traditional costume. (2) The most one is concerned in textile pattern, it's taste is different from color, constitution. Textile industry is developed not only weave pattern, gold-coverning pattern but embroidry pattern, dye pattern, therefore the various side of pattern design should be researched. (3) In Side of form, plant pattern is not only most various but highest in popularity. According to approach nowadays, all of the pattern becomes composition or geometric one with abstract tendency and so from these day pattern is necessary combinationed, researched with our people emotion. (4) The color of textile pattern is choiced individual taste. Through investige, research in various side of the modern taste and our costume, we take growing interest in the color, composition of textile, and should dressed with beauty and grace. (5) In side of size, textile pattern is choiced to individual face and body shape through research on form, color, size of these pattern, we should endeavor to dress well. (6) In side of application, most people is concerned in not only interior ornament but the costume is high. Costume research by some people of the outside and symbol with interior through the pattern analysis is not only very important but also is due to people culture.

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A Study on Ordinary Costume For Woman in the Late Chosun Period-Focused on Shilhak Scholars' Viewpoints on Costumes and Costumes in genre paintings- (조선후기 여자 일상복의 변천에 관한 연구-실학자의 복식관과 풍속사를 중심으로-)

  • 양숙향;김용서
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.39
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    • pp.167-179
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    • 1998
  • The objective of this study is to examine the costumes of the period covered in the writings of Shilhak (practical science) scholars and to research the history of costumes and their characteristics by examining how they are worn in genre paintings which are said to describe the actual life of the period. This should be studied in order to correctly establish the history of costumes. To begin with, through the writings of the representative Shilhak scholars who are thought to have affected the changes in ordinary costumes for woman, this study examined how ordinary woman of the period looked in their costumes and how they regarded various costumes they had. Then, how their viewpoints of costumes influenced ordinary costumes was investigated. Not only relics, but what was commonly worn, as they appeared in the genre paintings that contain information about daily living of that period, were researched chronologically. The results of this study showed that the change in ordinary costumes for woman in the late Chosun period was affected by Shilhak scholars who had ideologies of Shilsakusi (use of positive methods in studying), Yiyonghusaeng (the promotion of commerce and industry and the development of techonologies), and Ky ngsech'iyong (pursuit of stability in a rural economy). Moreover, after those changes there were many more changes. However, the criticism of costumes of that time and the will of revolution affected some time, costumes changed directly. The forms of the costumes had been changed in a variety of ways following the tendencies of the times, but the origin of today's hanbok (Korean traditional dress) had already been fixed in the late Choson period. Yet, today's hanbok are for special occasions, not worn as ordinary clothing. Thus, there are several reasons why the hanbok is not suitable for daily life. One of the reasons is that Korean could not cope with the western costumes indepen-dently imported during Japanese occupation in the last period of the Choson Dynasty and con-tinuing the Japanese Colony. Thus, only a part of the ordinary costume of the late Choson period has remained until now.

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Study on Different Body Types between Korean-Chinese and Han-Chinese Women in Yanbian Korean Autonomous Prefecture and the Social Environmental Factors - With the Focus on the Women in their 60's - (중국 연변지역 조선족, 한족 여성의 체형 및 사회 환경적 요인의 비교 연구 - 60대를 중심으로 -)

  • Lin, Hui-Shun;Im, Soon
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.65 no.7
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    • pp.1-18
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    • 2015
  • The purpose of this paper is to compare the body types of Korean-Chinese and Han-Chinese women in their 60's dwelling in Yanbian Korean Autonomous Prefecture. In addition, a survey was conducted to analyze the social and environmental factors that would decide the body types of these two groups of individuals. 1) The comparison of 74 items in physical measurements between the Korean-chinese and Han-chinese showed differences in 36 items. 2) As for the body measurements of women, difference was found between the Han-Chinese and Korean-Chinese in all height items except bust height, circumference, depth, length, and weight. The values of Korean-Chinese were lower than those of Han-Chinese. 3) Cluster analysis shows that Korean- Chinese women appear thinner in regards to common weight, while Han-Chinese women appear to be thicker in regards to with common thinness. 4) Korean-Chinese women dwelling in Yanbian Korean Autonomous Prefecture maintained unique traditional customs and eating habits of Korea and were in constant contact with Korean cultures, which seems to make them care more about body management for health and beauty.

An Analytical Research on Exotic Tastes Reflected in Contemporary Men's Fashion - Focused on Collections from 2001 to 2010 - (현대 남성 패션에 나타난 이국적 취향(Exotic Taste)에 관한 분석 연구 - 2001년부터 2010년까지 발표된 컬렉션 중심으로 -)

  • Shin, Myung-Jin;Nam, Yoon-Sook
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.61 no.10
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    • pp.104-118
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    • 2011
  • The purpose of this study is to examine the recent various developments of men's fashion by analyzing how exotic tastes were presented in men's modern fashion from 2001 to 2010. For this purpose, a researcher reviewed relevant studies to identify the styles of exotic tastes that were reflected in men's modern fashion specifically in Chinese, Japanese, Indian, East Asian, American, North American and South American styles. Findings of this study is summarized as follows. Main examples of men's modern fashion were found in Chinese-style apparel such as the magwae, queue, coolie hat and the Mao jacket. The Kimono and the samurai robe, both of which best represent Japanese apparel and the Japanese traditional patterns also had an influence on men's modern fashion Indian style clothing such as dhoti, veshti and lungi which cover the lower body, vajani as loose trousers, kurta of full-over tunic form and turban also had an effect as well. The men's modern fashion is also impacted by Middle Asian styles that includes the thobe, sirwaal, futah, which is sort of a skirt that is long enough to cover the calf and whose front parts overlap each other, turbans and the hempen hood which is fixed with the agal. Exotic elements such as animal skins, body painting, tattoos and head dresses found in African styles can also be found in men's modern fashion. Parts of North American style influence come from the applications of Indians' costume and head dress. The surveyed men's modern fashion of the South America style was represented by the applications of natives' costume and Andean tunic, loincloth and shawl. In all of the exotic styles found in men's modern fashion, historicity, eclecticism, aestheticism and nature-orientation are implied. They are the source of inspirations that promote changes and diversity in men's modern fashion.

A Study on Textile Design Applied a Korean Traditiomal Jogakbo and a Tosi and Development Digital Printed Fabrics (한국 전통조각보 및 토시를 응용한 텍스타일 디자인 제안 및 디지털 프린트 직물 개발에 관한 연구)

  • Lee, Youn-Soon;Choi, Hyo-Sun
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.13 no.3
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    • pp.165-175
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    • 2011
  • In this study, document research on Jogakbo and Tosi were carried out and textile designs were developed by applying Jogakbo and Tosi together for motives. The purposes of this study were to develop a unique textile design, and then to enhance the competitiveness of Korean textile industry in the world market and pass down a Korean traditional fiber art cultural legacy. The results are as follows; First, the title of textile design was decided to "innocence of childhood" and the concepts are "sim ple heart ed, pure heart, sweet", in order to develop textile design for the young generation Second, Motives were chosen Jogakbo and Tosi to reflect Korean traditionality and identity and textile designs were expressed on ground fashion trends for modernity. Third, developed textile designs were printed with digital printing method for eco-friendly and productivity, and various articles clothing, nectie, shoes, bag, bedings were producted with developed fabrics for multipurpose. Forth, the developed textile designs were evaluated highly in point of Korean traditionality and identity, felling of simplehearted, pure hear and sweet, modernity and fashion trend, and preference by a sensory test of developed test design.

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Designing Performance Costumes of Daily Dance Ganggangsullae for Elementary Students (초등학생을 위한 강강술래 국민생활댄스 공연복식 제안)

  • Cho, Du Na
    • Human Ecology Research
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    • v.53 no.1
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    • pp.81-92
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    • 2015
  • Daily dance Ganggangsullae is recommended for youth to help their diet, improve their team life and know Korean culture. Its performance costumes were fusion hanbok and casual wear shown at the Second Daily Dance Ganggangsullae Contest Conference of Myeongryang Battle Festival in 2013. A fusion hanbok shows the Korean traditional spirit, but it is not practical. Casual wear is practical, but it does not show any Korean identity. Therefore, their combination is needed to reflect the Korean identity and practicality. For this, a literature review and an online search were conducted for the history, purpose and dance motion of daily dance Ganggangsullae. And photographs of participating teams were gathered from Jeonnam Information & Culture Industry Promotion Agency. Goguryeo costumes were used for design motifs. Four designs were sets of T-shirts and pants for the summer. Style 1 is designed using sam, jikryeong, go, round and triangle pattern with rippled cotton. Colors were from Wang Huiji's mural painting. Style 2 is designed using dansuui, beonryeong, go, round and quadrangle patterns with rippled cotton. Colors were from a Deokheungri mural painting. Style 3 is designed using sam, round ryeong, go, quadrangle patterns, prints with cotton jersey and denim. Colors were from a Gamsinchong mural painting. Style 4 is designed using dansuui, jikryeong, go, a flame pattern, a bow and arrow shape with cotton, knit and jersey. Colors were from a Muyongchong mural painting. This study is helpful to anyone who wants to develop Korean-style performance costumes.

The Research for Amarican Sportswear - Focusing on Claire McCardell, Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren and Donna Karan - (미국(美國) Sportswear에 관한 연구(硏究) - Claire McCardell, Cavin Klein, Ralph Lauren, Donna Karan을 중심으로 -)

  • Jung, Sung-Hye
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.15
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    • pp.217-231
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    • 1990
  • The purposes of this study were to research 1) the background of origination, 2) the process of development and 3) the influences to modern clothing culture of American sportswear. The most Influential sportswear designers in America from beginning period to present : such as Claire McCardell, Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren and Donna Karan were selected to study their life and achievements in the world sportswear market. The Results were as follows : 1) World War I & II have caused the greatest changes to modern history America became the center of world economy, society and culture. Politically, they have influenced democracy world-wide and raised the social status of women. The free American women enjoyed sports, Jazz drinking and car-driving. The advanced technology have accelerated mechanization and mass-production to the fashion industrv. 2) The above historical backgrounds have caused to change women's clothing to casual, practical and simple form. Dorothy Shaver at Lord & Taylor began promoting American designers who created the original American spirit. Claire McCardell created the seperated American sportswear to become world-wide fashion. Calvin Klein and Ralph Lauren, the sportswear designers who have the unique American feeling have come to have riches and fames equal to the top designers in Paris. 3) The American sportswear and fashion industry influenced Paris Mode, the traditional Haute Couture to open Pret-a-porter-a-porter. The concept of seperated coordination in American sportswear have promoted the advanced marketing techniques and merchandising systems to modern ready-to-wear industry. Fashion in 1980s have increased the mutual interdepedence between the American sportswear industry and the creative Paris Mode. And then, the fashion world in 1990s and 21C will be changed and developed on the basis of American sportswear mechanism.

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Americanization Expressed in Korean Fashion -Focused on 1950s~1980s Nora Noh Fashion- (한국 현대패션에 나타난 미국화에 관한 연구 -1950년대~1980년대 노라 노 패션을 중심으로-)

  • Hahn, Soo-Yeon
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.14 no.3
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    • pp.195-204
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    • 2012
  • Since WWII and the Korean War, Korean modern fashion has been americanized by claiming, displacing with, and fusing with the traits of American fashion. The purpose of this study is to observe and analyze the traits of Americanization in Korean fashion, focusing on the designs of Nora Noh fashion from the 1950s to the 1980s. Nora Noh (1928- ), one of the first Korean fashion designers, who launched the first fashion show in 1956, introduced ready-made dresses to Korean fashion industry in 1963 for the first time, and later in the 1970s and the 1980s, exported Korean-made fashions to the U.S. market. For such purpose, this study first provides the theoretical backgrounds of Americanization in Korean fashion history and then conducts a case study by analyzing photographic materials. In case of Nora Noh fashion, the traits of Americanization can be defined as functionality, popularity, and hybrid. (1)Functionality in Americanized Korean fashion was expressed through simplicity, practicality, and usefulness. Noh's "homewear" style and exported silk dresses are the examples of the functionality. (2)Popularity was shown in kitsch images of materialistic and consumer culture. It was expressed in ready-made dresses and trendy styles of mini skrits and bell-bottom pants. (3)Hybrids of various multi-culture exist in American culture and fashion. In Noh's designs, traditional materials and the print patterns inspired from traditional motifs were used to add Korean nuances in Americanized fashion.

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The Analysis of Korean Formative-Artistic Characteristics in the HanBok Fashion (한복 패션에 나타난 한국적 디자인의 조형적 특징 분석)

  • Shin, Kyeong-Seub
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.12 no.3
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    • pp.121-132
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    • 2010
  • The purpose of this research was to analyze the Korean Formative-Artistic Characteristics which were expressed by Hanbok designers. In this research, Hanbok style is a combination of two main things: formative-artistic factors of the Korean past, which naturally focuses on the peculiarity of the tradition and the modern aspects of clothing. Hanbok fashion is defined as all products created by Hanbok designers that incorporate traditional design factors, but do not follow it exactly. There are four formative-artistic characteristics of Korean designs in the Hanbok fashion. The first is the practical usage of the form and the second is the application of texture, color and patterns of materials which are synonymous with traditional Korean costumes; the third, by utilizing specific features, such as a the string of Jeogori(jacket), the round line of Jeogori sleeve, quilting, slit of Dofo (coat), the line of goreum and git (collar), the beauty of the Hanbok can be expressed in various ways; finally, the decorations added to the clothing, like embroidery, dying, patchwork, and beaten silver have been used to express Korean beauty in a modern sense. At the conclusion of the research, the study suggests the following recommendations to upgrade the Hanbok designs and the Hanbok industry. The first recommendation is that continuous design research be done for the development and popularity of the brand image; secondly, collaboration with specialists from other areas of fashion would be beneficial; thirdly, it would be a positive development if Hanbok designers studied Western clothing; and fourthly, Hanbok materials should continue to evolve and be developed.

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