• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.58 no.2
• /
• pp.134-148
• /
• 2008

Methods of delivering products to consumers do not act as less important factor than creative activities to create new product designs. Mobilizing various psychological elements based on human instinct and desire, fashion industry presents a product as an object of envy, gaining viewers' attention. Here, the viewer does not simply take the product as an object to view, but also imagine transformation it will bring. The study of the cause and effects of the interaction, which is found in the relationship between "the viewer" and "what is viewed" is an important factor that needs to be identified in the phase of creation as well as in the aspect of delivery. The relationship between the perceiver and what is perceived features in designs, product advertisements, related articles, and fashion shows in modern fashion, serving as a medium that enables the humans, who must inevitably exist between the two poles such as mind and body, the subject and the object, the ego and non-ego, and the reality and an ideal, to communicate between the poles. Humans cannot do arbitrary acts or make arbitrary selections only as they access to foreign things through instinct, desire, or experienced perception, and they are sometimes positioned passive by things. In the background, as there are human dual characteristics in which they are expressed as the ego and another ego who exists inside of the ego, they not only view an object, but also become an object to be viewed. Many products in modern fashion, as the objects of reciprocal transposition, grow giving illusions to humans. Having a desire for such objects is human's instinct and normal act to keep the life balanced between the reality and an ideal, which is based on the activation of reality function. Furthermore, freely acting rather than ignoring or overcoming the desire may be the act of retrieving one's ownership to the ego.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.32 no.1
• /
• pp.134-146
• /
• 2008

This study measured the body parts of female adults in their 20s, 40s and 60s living in Japan and analyzed and examined the measures by age group in order to provide the basic data required for the somatics study of Koreans living abroad. The subjects were 304 women in their 20s, 40s and 60s born in Japan and living in Osaka at present, and 81 items were measured. The major results of this study are described below. All women in their 20s, 40s and 60s showed significant differences in weight, waist size and abdominal size. The 19 height items of which group were different from the measurements of the women in their 60s. All 20 length items displayed a significant difference by age group. The significant differences by age group were also observed in eight items of 12 width items, 10 items of 13 thickness items and 13 items of 14 girth items except the ankle girth. The weight measurements had a significant difference by age group(${\le}0.05$). The women in their 20s, 40s and 60s revealed almost similar values in the shoulder angles. As a result of the analysis above, the items that were considered being included in the obesity items in all age groups displayed significant personal differences. The women in their 20s had the largest sizes in the length and height items. The older the age, the higher the measures of width and girth items were. Those results helped to estimate the change of figures by torso by age.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.35 no.10
• /
• pp.1228-1241
• /
• 2011

This research compares the change in berberine content in liquid dye and the color and dye uptake of amur cork tree dyed silk upon thermal degradation treatment. Thermal degradation of amur cork tree extract and liquid dye of standard berberine was carried out at room temperature, $4^{\circ}C$ refrigeration, and $100^{\circ}C$ oven conditions for 0-192 hours. Amur cork tree dyed silk was treated in a $100^{\circ}C$ oven for 0-240 hours. The berberine content in liquid dye was measured by the relative abundance of the berberine peak in the HPLC-MS chromatograms. The color and dye uptake of dyed silk was measured using K/S value and colorimetric data. The berberine content in standard berberine dye was 2.4 times that of the amur cork tree extract. A similar result was observed between the K/S value of standard berberine dyed silk and that of amur cork tree dyed silk. The berberine dyed silk showed the highest dye uptake after 120 hours in a $100^{\circ}C$ oven. This result was similar to the change in a berberine content in liquid dye in a $100^{\circ}C$ oven treatment. The change of the K/S value of amur cork tree dyed silk and berberine content of amur cork tree extract was similar up to 24 hours. The result suggests that there is a direct relationship between the color change of amur cork tree dyed silk and the berberine content in amur cork tree dye.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.5 no.3
• /
• pp.9-18
• /
• 2001

This study is to provide basic data for the development of domestic ready-made shoes industry by illustrating any problem in regards to the ready-made shoes for ordinary salary men through looking into its uses and gratifications. Subjects for this study were in between twenties and sixties by applying convenient random sampling method, which was done in January to February, 2001. The results were as follows: 1. General foot shape of subjects was that foot breadth was wide whereas instep height was average. In regards to the metamorphic parts of foot, the most metamorphic part was the fifth toe which could be occurred by disagreeable shoes to foot. 2. General salary men (69.5%) wear the formal shoes and their wearing time per day is over 10 hours (49%), which illustrates that more suitable and convenient functional shoes needs to be developed. 3. Almost of subjects tended to purchase ready-made shoes, and their concerns to be considered when to purchase ready-made shoes were its size and solidity. This finding suggests that the size specification of the ready-made shoes needs to be more specific in terms of its length as well as foot breadth. 4. The most unsatisfied point on the ready-made shoes was the foot breadth. According to the Crosstabulation analysis on the discomfort part and the foot breadth, there existed a significant correlation between the discomfort part and the foot breadth (p$\leq$0.05). The above results make clear that overall salary men have complaints on the ready-made formal shoes in terms of its size and wearing comfort level. This suggests that the subdivision of the shoes size specification needs to be developed to improve the wearing comfort level.

• Journal of Korean Society for Atmospheric Environment
• /
• v.22 no.6
• /
• pp.767-778
• /
• 2006

This study was carried out to evaluate the temporal variations of VOCs at an urban site, and to compare the concentrations of VOCs at an urban site in Daegu with those at a suburban site in Gyeongsan. Three hourly VOC samples in the ambient air were collected using a sequential tube sampler (STS 25, Perkin Elmer) throughout two weeks during May and July representing spring and summer seasons, respectively. The VOC concentrations were determined by an automatic thermal desorption apparatus with GC/MS analysis. A total of 12 VOCs of environmental concern were determined, which are chloroform, benzene, trichloroethylene, toluene, tetra-chloroethylene, ethylbenzene, m+p-xylenes, o-xylene, styrene, 1,3,5- and 1,2,4-trimethylbenzenes. Among 12 target VOCs, the most abundant compound appeared to be toluene, being followed by xylenes. The mean concentrations at the urbn site were 1.2 pub for benzene and 20.4 ppb for toluene (n=221) while the mean levels at the suburban site were 0.9 ppb and 4.3 ppb for benzene and toluene (n=96), respectively. The urban site concentrations were typically several-fold higher than those measured at the suburban site. It was found that general trends of VOC levels were significantly dependent on traffic conditions at the sampling site since VOC concentrations were at their maximum during rush hours, i.e. $9{\sim}12a.m$ and $6{\sim}9p.m$. Statistical investigations were conducted to investigate any significant relationships between VOC concentrations and affecting factors. Calculated correlation coefficients among VOCs were positively significant at a level of 0.05 in most cases. Increased concentrations of toluene in the urban site were estimated to reflect the effect of large industrial sources, mainly from textile industry.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.60 no.9
• /
• pp.1-15
• /
• 2010

Fashion designer Jean Paul Gaultier incorporated his own boundless and unique artistic Into his design of dance costumes, presenting an unobstructed imaginary world that was filled with freedom, which is no less than one would expect from the one-time enfant t${\'{e}}$rrible of Paris fashion. This creativity of Gaultier was made possible only through the fantastic partnership he formed with the French modern dancer, R${\'{e}}$gine Chopinot. Gaultier and Chopinot shared a deep-rooted sympathy that enabled their own artistic worlds to fully mingle and cross over, resulting in a doubled synergy of their talent and their fame. This study analyzed 11 dancing costumes created through the collaborated efforts of those two enfants t${\'{e}}$rribles, one from the fashion industry and the other from the world of dance. The following are the results of my analysis. Gaultier's dance costumes served as a artistic venue for experimenting with a number of creative inspirations lurking in his mind, which were sometimes expressed in pr${\^{e}}$t-${\`{a}}$-porter collections. Instead of the decorative and expressive features of conventional dance costumes, his was the revival of the dancer's persona as a human being, ablaze with individuality and uniqueness. He pointed out that there is no good in the distorted turturro's fixed point of view, and the great joy of an opposing way of thinking that overturned the established. Leotard material was used as a second skin by transforming it into various styles and delivering his message. In addition, obscene and sexual expressions were delivered in a direct narrative. His eccentric ideas provided entertainment while showing his oppositional way of thinking. In the dance, the effect of the costumes was doubled by the use of cumbersome and exaggerated accessories, which is generally forbidden in modern dance.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.60 no.9
• /
• pp.162-175
• /
• 2010

An important change started in knitwear fashion in the 1980s. Advanced designers in Japan began to provide a new interpretation on knitwear, and seamless knitwear based on computerized machinery appeared. Knitwear fashion showed differences starting the 1980s due to this change. In this regard, the study aimed to analyze knitwear fashion after the 1980s where the contemporary knitwear experienced changes to define characteristics of modern knitwear fashion and examine its inherent formative nature. Designs for 30 years from 1980s up to date have been analyzed by 10 years in order to identify the characteristics of knitwear fashion over time. In particular, formative characteristics of modern knitwear fashion have been analyzed in more depth with a focus on the period from 2001 through 2010 by narrowing the whole period. Insufficient domestic literatures and visual materials led the study to mostly use foreign books and internet sites. Insights of 7 professionals who have engaged themselves in knitwear industry over 10 years have been incorporated into this study, which will enhance the reliability of the formative analysis. As a result, the data have been organized into three tools of analysis, including exposed bodies, transformed bodies and natural bodies from the perspectives of expression and silhouette of body, and the features of flexibility, industrial artistry, innovation and sensuality have been highlighted in terms of formativeness. In this regard, it has been confirmed that the formative nature found in the knitwear fashion exists in the scope of the formative nature in the embryonic period of the knitwear fashion. It means that the formative nature of knitwear fashion contains perpetuity that transcends an age.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.61 no.10
• /
• pp.104-118
• /
• 2011

The purpose of this study is to examine the recent various developments of men's fashion by analyzing how exotic tastes were presented in men's modern fashion from 2001 to 2010. For this purpose, a researcher reviewed relevant studies to identify the styles of exotic tastes that were reflected in men's modern fashion specifically in Chinese, Japanese, Indian, East Asian, American, North American and South American styles. Findings of this study is summarized as follows. Main examples of men's modern fashion were found in Chinese-style apparel such as the magwae, queue, coolie hat and the Mao jacket. The Kimono and the samurai robe, both of which best represent Japanese apparel and the Japanese traditional patterns also had an influence on men's modern fashion Indian style clothing such as dhoti, veshti and lungi which cover the lower body, vajani as loose trousers, kurta of full-over tunic form and turban also had an effect as well. The men's modern fashion is also impacted by Middle Asian styles that includes the thobe, sirwaal, futah, which is sort of a skirt that is long enough to cover the calf and whose front parts overlap each other, turbans and the hempen hood which is fixed with the agal. Exotic elements such as animal skins, body painting, tattoos and head dresses found in African styles can also be found in men's modern fashion. Parts of North American style influence come from the applications of Indians' costume and head dress. The surveyed men's modern fashion of the South America style was represented by the applications of natives' costume and Andean tunic, loincloth and shawl. In all of the exotic styles found in men's modern fashion, historicity, eclecticism, aestheticism and nature-orientation are implied. They are the source of inspirations that promote changes and diversity in men's modern fashion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.63 no.5
• /
• pp.72-86
• /
• 2013

This research aims to analyze the expressive characteristics of the fashion illustration in various fashion products such as clothing, accessories, other fashion products, and magazine advertisements. Targeting 223 items of products that had adjoined fashion illustration from 2000 to 2008, which had been collected through from magazines and web sites using the fashion illustration expression categorization (expression technique drawing style, body expression, expression image, attaching method to product) based on the theoretical background and the general trends by products. In frequency analysis results, painting technique and graphic technique were of great importance in the expression technique, and shading drawing and contour drawing were of great importance over all product groups for the drawing style. In body expression, exaggerative expression was the highest; simple expression and realistic expression were of great importance over all product groups relatively. In particular, there was a very distinct difference by fashion products in expression image. Humor image has the most importance in fashion clothing and fashion accessories. Casual image is the most important in magazine advertisements, and feminine image is the most important for other fashion products. Lastly, in attaching method to products, finished goods printings made up the largest proportion over all products. In fashion clothing, textile printings was the highest in proportions. Stitch in fashion accessory, the original form of commodity in other fashion products. This study will become a very valuable source in fashion products development using fashion illustrations.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.67 no.2
• /
• pp.116-130
• /
• 2017

Consumers who purchase products from foreign countries and deliver them back to Korea are increasing. According to the Korea Fashion & Textile News (2015), overseas direct shopping reported 39% increase compared to 2013. Furthermore, clothes accounted for 19% of product category. Therefore, the service quality of overseas purchase sites is becoming more important, but studies have been limited. this research focuses on investigating the effects of consumers' shopping orientation on service quality and the effects of service quality on trust, satisfaction, and consumer loyalty. The survey was administered to consumers who had experiences in purchasing through overseas direct purchase websites. The results showed that the perception of service quality differed depending on the respondent's shopping orientation. Among the four shopping orientation groups(shopping confidence, shopping enjoyment, trend pursuit, and shopping follower groups), the shopping confidence group showed the highest mean for all service quality factors. All the groups showed the highest scores on product and trust among the factors of service quality. Next, the results revealed that service quality positively influenced consumers' trust on websites that provide overseas direct purchase services, which further improved customer loyalty. Therefore, the study gives managerial suggestions to online retailers that provide oversea shopping service. They need to provide higher site efficiency, security, product reliability, and responsiveness to cultivate international customers' trust and satisfaction. In particular, it will be important for them to offer accurate, reliable product information and various languages for overseas customers.