• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.19
• /
• pp.105-125
• /
• 1992

The research, aiming an automatic pattern design of Korean Costume by utilizing CAD system, tried Grading, Seaming and Marking with a theme of girl's color-strip blouse & skirt. The content & conclusion of the research can be outlined as follows; 1) As we reviewed the current situation of Korean costume which becomes more likely celebrational or festival costume, while the demand of it is getting increase, it's being dealt mostly as ready-made dresses with different qualities & designs. Especially childrens ready-made ones were highly demanded to be picked up as the theme. 2) For the original drawing of children's color-strip blouse & skirt, Kyung-Ja Park's drawing method was used here, and for the substitute of particular body parts absolute size, Joo-Won Lee's standard size chart from a size-study by ages. 3) To work with CAD system we had input master pattern, drawn for age 5 as basic size, then graded six step-sizes for 1-11 years old. For add-subtract of particular body parts size, we graded through computing the standard variation among items to get the pattern developed into ready-made standard size, we can make precise plotting by grading wanted size very rapidly if we correct the rule of changed items different from standard size to make utilization possible enough with easy order method of ready-made Korean Dress. 4) We produced Marker after attaching a margin to seam accordingly by parts for each pattern using P/D/S to mark, In mass gament-cutting, the loss of time and material can minimized. In this research the apparel CAD system which has been utilized and only be western fashion industry was introduced for the design of ready-made Korean costume and utilized it in Grading, Marking which are critical steps to improve productivity and have reported the result in the research. Thus we expect that less cost, improved productivity and better quality with minimized loss of material from marking as well as from prompt and precise size-drawing. Furthermore the utilization of CAD system is considered as an effective one in terms of the research & the development to remove effective one in terms of the research & the development to remove irrational elements in the design and production process of Korean costume as well as in terms of the study of Korean Costume development through creative works of Korean Costume.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.31 no.6 s.165
• /
• pp.892-901
• /
• 2007

This research is the initial step for establishing a convertible body sizing table applicable to the Korean and American female apparel industry. All 3D female measurement data of the two countries were obtained from Size Korea Project and SizeUSA Project. The sample subjects used in this study were 1,988 Korean and 6,306 American females. Thirty-four(34) variables were chosen as the principal measurements in making garments. The conclusion of this research was as follow: First, it was determined that American women were larger and longer than Korean women in all measurement except shoulder slope measurement. Second, according to the differences analysis of the each age group in Korean Females, all measurements except hip girth had significant differences among the age groups. In case of American females, all measurements except arm length(shoulder to wrist) had significant differences among the age groups. Third, in the comparison of differences between the age groups of the two countries' women, some dimensions varied significantly with age, while others did not show any statistical significance among the age groups. Fourth, according to the t-tests of same age groups between Korean & American female measurements, American female measurements were larger and longer than Korean in all measurements except crotch length total, shoulder slope, hip girth-bust girth and hip girth-waist girth.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
• /
• v.28 no.2D
• /
• pp.249-258
• /
• 2008

Korean engineering firms need to improve their performance in order to stay competitive in the globalize environments which has been led by some international movements including World Trade Organization (WTO) and Free Trade Agreements (FTA). There have been various activities and researches focusing on how to improve competitiveness of Korean engineering firms and the out-of-fashion Engineering Project Delivery System (EPDS) has repetitively identified as one of main barriers to deter advancements of Korean engineering industry. Therefore, this research attempted to investigate global standards of EPDS such as International Federation of Consulting Engineers (FIDIC), American Federal Acquisition Regulations (FAR), Brooks Act, and so on. The procedures of international EPDSs along with a few case studies were comprehensively analyzed and compared with Korean EPDS in order to propose recommendations of improving Korean EPDS. Some major differences between international and Korean EPDS were identified and they includes emphasis on qualifications of engineers and/or firms rather than their proposed cost, extensive use of long and short-list, common use of negotiation process, etc. Research findings are envisioned to guide the Korean public engineering sector to innovate Korean EPDS.

• Journal of Global Scholars of Marketing Science
• /
• v.20 no.1
• /
• pp.59-69
• /
• 2010

Green or an environmental consciousness has been a major issue for businesses and government offices, as well as consumers, worldwide. In response to this movement, the Korean government announced, in the early 2000s, the era of "Green Growth" as a way to encourage green-related business activities. The Korean fashion industry, in various levels of involvement, presents diverse eco-friendly products as a part of the green movement. These apparel products include organic products and recycled clothing. For these companies to be successful, they need information about who are the consumers who consider green issues (e.g., environmental sustainability) as part of their personal values when making a decision for product purchase, use, and disposal. These consumers can be considered as eco-sumers. Previous studies have examined consumers' purchase intention for or with eco-friendly products. In addition, studies have examined influential factors used to identify the eco-sumers or green consumers. However, limited attention was paid to eco-sumers' disposal or recycling behavior of clothes in comparison with their green product purchases. Clothing disposal behaviors are ways that consumer can get rid of unused clothing and in clue temporarily lending the item or permanently eliminating the item by "handing down" (e.g., giving it to a younger sibling), donating, exchanging, selling, or simply throwing it away. Accordingly, examining purchasing behaviors of eco-friendly fashion items in conjunction with clothing disposal behaviors should improve understanding of a consumer's clothing consumption behavior from the environmental perspective. The purpose of this exploratory study is to provide descriptive information about Korean eco-sumers who have ecologically-favorable lifestyles and behaviors when buying and disposing of clothes. The objectives of this study are to (a) categorize Koreans on the basis of clothing disposal behaviors; (b) investigate the differences in demographics, lifestyles, and clothing consumption values among segments; and (c) compare the purchase intention of eco-friendly fashion items and influential factors among segments. A self-administered questionnaire was developed based on previous studies. The questionnaire included 10 items of clothing disposal behavior, 22 items of LOHAS (Lifestyles of Health and Sustainability) characteristics, and 19 items of consumption values, measured by five-point Likert-type scales. In addition, the purchase intention of two eco-friendly fashion items and 11 attributes of each item were measured by seven-point Likert type scales. Two polyester fleece pullovers, made from fabric created from recycled bottles with the PET identification code, were selected from one Korean brand and one US imported brand among outdoor sportswear brands. A brief description of each product with a color picture was provided in the survey. Demographic variables (i.e., gender, age, marital status, education level, income, occupation) were also included. The data were collected through a professional web survey agency during May 2009. A total of 600 final usable questionnaires were analyzed. The age of respondents ranged from 20 to 49 years old with a mean age of 34 years. Fifty percent of the respondents were males and about 58% were married, and 62% reported having earned university degrees. Principal components factor analysis with varimax rotation was used to identify the underlying dimensions of the clothing disposal behavior scale, and three factors were generated (i.e., reselling behavior, donating behavior, non-recycling behavior). To categorize the respondents on the basis of clothing disposal behaviors, k-mean cluster analysis was used, and three segments were obtained. These consumer segments were labeled as 'Resale Group', 'Donation Group', and 'Non-Recycling Group.' The classification results indicated approximately 98 percent of the original cases were correctly classified. With respect to demographic characteristics among the three segments, significant differences were found in gender, marital status, occupation, and age. LOHAS characteristics were reduced into the following five factors: self-satisfaction, family orientation, health concern, environmental concern, and voluntary service. Significant differences were found in the LOHAS factors among the three clusters. Resale Group and Donation Group showed a similar predisposition to LOHAS issues while the Non-Recycling Group presented the lowest mean scores on the LOHAS factors compared to the other segments. The Resale and Donation Groups described themselves as enjoying or being satisfied with their lives and spending spare-time with family. In addition, these two groups cared about health and organic foods, and tried to conserve energy and resources. Principal components factor analysis generated clothing consumption values into the following three factors: personal values, social value, and practical value. The ANOVA test with the factors showed differences primarily between the Resale Group and the other two groups. The Resale Group was more concerned about personal value and social value than the other segments. In contrast, the Non-Recycling Group presented the higher level of social value than did Donation Group. In a comparison of the intention to purchase eco-friendly products, the Resale Group showed the highest mean score on intent to purchase Product A. On the other hand, the Donation Group presented the highest intention to purchase for Product B among segments. In addition, the mean scores indicated that the Korean product (Product B) was more preferable for purchase than the U.S. product (Product A). Stepwise regression analysis was used to identify the influence of product attributes on the purchase intention of eco product. With respect to Product A, design, price and contribution to environmental preservation were significant to predict purchase intention for the Resale Group, while price and compatibility with my image factors were significant for the Donation Group. For the Non-Recycling Group, design, price compatibility with the factors of my image, participation to eco campaign, and contribution to environmental preservation were significant. Price appropriateness was significant for each of the three clusters. With respect to Product B, design, price and compatibility with my image factors were important, but different attributes were associated significantly with purchase intention for each of the three groups. The influence of LOHAS characteristics and clothing consumption values on intention to purchase Products A and B were also examined. The LOHAS factor of health concern and the personal value factor were significant in the relationships with the purchase intention; however, the explanatory powers were low in the three segments. Findings showed that each group as classified by clothing disposal behaviors showed differences in the attributes of a product, personal values, and the LOHAS characteristics that influenced their purchase intention of eco-friendly products. Findings would enable organizations to understand eco-friendly behavior and to design appropriate strategic decisions to appeal eco-sumers.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.64 no.2
• /
• pp.150-162
• /
• 2014

This study examined the excavated clothes of Lady Sim Cheongsong(1753~1810) in Jecheon which were excavated in 2012. Lady Sim died at the age of 57 and the excavated relics belonged to the 18th and 19th centuries. The excavated relics consisted of 9 pieces of three-kind-clothes. They showed various qualities such as Plain-Silk, Plaited-Silk, Patterned Twill, Plain Twill, Plain Satin, and Satin Damask. Through comparing them with the other excavated clothes of the 18th and 19th centuries, we can comprehend the periodical changes of the excavated Jegori and Yeomo (the hat for a dead woman). The excavated Jegori shows the difference of length and form from the other Jegori of the 18th century. The total length of the excavated Jegori ranged from 24 cm to 25 cm, which is 10 cm shorter than that of the other Jegori of the 18th century. The excavated hat for a dead woman shows the changes of the form and needlework. The form of a rectangular cover was changed into that of a round shape. In regards to the sewing composition, the way of inserting the cover into Mosin(the body of the hat for a dead woman) was replaced by that of connecting the cover into Mosin. The excavated clothes show three kinds of textile fabrics: plain silk fabrics and plaited silk, plain twill and four-leaf-patterned twill, eight-leaf-plain satin of life-lettered textile and five-leaf satin damask, and plain satin. Especially, the combination of eight-leaf satin and four-leaf twill with mixed textile is considered as a fabric of high quality. The excavated clothes of Lady Sim Cheongsong showed a periodical change which was different from the clothes of the 18th century in terms of the formal composition of Jegori and Yeomo. Regarding Women's Jegori a short length and slim and long sleeves are changed into short and tight Jegori, which signaled the specific change of Jegori aesthetics. The significance of the excavated clothes of Lady Sim Cheongsong lies in its role as the bases for understanding the couture culture of the 19th century.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.33 no.6
• /
• pp.980-989
• /
• 2009

Amur cork tree was extracted in methanol with the purpose of investigating the most effective extraction procedure for detecting the chromophore using the GC-MS analysis. Different procedures of waterbath and hotplate extractions were carried out and five different GC-MS instrument parameters including the operating temperatures in the GC capillary column and the MSD scan range were tested for their efficiencies. Berberine was determined by the detection of dihydroberberine at 15.0 min r.t. Hotplate was a better device for extracting amur cork tree than waterbath shaker either with or without presoaking in the room temperature. Water was not an adequate extraction medium for the berberine detection. The most effective GC-MS parameter was Method 4; the initial temperature at $50^{\circ}C$ followed by the temperature increase of $23^{\circ}C$/min until $210^{\circ}C$, then increase of $30^{\circ}C$/min until the final temperature reach at $305^{\circ}C$, then hold for 14 minutes to maintain the total run time 24.12 minutes. The MSD scan range for Method 4 was $35\sim400$m/z.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.29 no.12 s.148
• /
• pp.1608-1618
• /
• 2005

The purpose of this investigation was to investigate the degradation products of the dye component extracted from madder dyed fabrics using the GC-MS analysis and to evaluate the change of color due to degradation treatment. Four different degradation protocols were used in this study,; refrigeration at $7^{\circ}C$ (LT), room temperature (RT), oven treatment at $100^{\circ}C$ (OV), and $H_2O_2/UV(PER)$ method. Degradation times for each thermal system were 6 hour, 24 hour, 48 hour, 1 week, 2 week, 4 week. Alizarin was detected from the control and degraded samples of both alizarin dyed and madder dyed fabrics. Benzoic acid, 2, 4-di-tert-butylphenol, phthalic anhydride were detected as the degradation products for both alizarin dyed and madder dyed fabrics. The result suggest that these products can be used as the fingerprints of GC-MS analysis for the identification of madder dye in archaeological textiles. Both alizarin dyed and madder dyed samples became less red and less yellow after degradation. In the PER degradation system madder dyed sample showed the greatest color difference even after 1 week of degradation treatment. Further research is necessary for investigating the color change in the exhumed textiles, which is caused by the dual action of dye fading and the staining of organic matters in the soil.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.31 no.12
• /
• pp.1653-1661
• /
• 2007

The research aimed to establish the standard extraction procedure for examining brazilin, the major chromophoric substance of Sappanwood, using GC-MS with the ultimate goal of identifying the sappanwood dye in severely faded archaeological textiles. The amount of brazilin represented by the GC abundance was the largest when acetone was used as the extraction medium, followed by methanol. Shaking plate operated at room temperature was more effective than the waterbath shaker which was operated at $30^{\circ}C$. In both cases, the extraction method which incorporated one hour pre-soaking before the 12 hours of actual extraction resulted in a larger amount of brazilin detection than the extraction procedure without the one hour pre-soaking. In case of water extraction, pH 5 resulted in the most effective pH level for the extraction of brazilin, The best GC-MS parameter for detecting brazilin was to set the column temperature initially at $50^{\circ}C$. gradually increase to $210^{\circ}C$ at a $23^{\circ}C/min$ rate, finally increase to $305^{\circ}C$ at $30^{\circ}C/min$ rate, and hold for 14 minutes, and the MSD scan range at $75{\sim}400m/z$.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.30 no.7 s.155
• /
• pp.1025-1033
• /
• 2006

Kenaf bast can be obtained by decortication of Kenaf stem. Kenaf fibers are much more rough than cotton fiber because they include impurities as pectin, lignin and hemicellulose besides cellulose. The purpose of this research is to investigate the distribution of kenaf fiber length and diameter during the processes of removing impurities. To remove pectin, kenaf bast was retted chemically. A half of the retted kenaf fiber bundle were scoured and bleached. The other half one were treated with $NaClO_2$ solution to remove lignin, and were treated with sodium hydroxide solution to remove hemicellulose. Four kinds of specimens that were obtained for investigating physical characteristics. Length and diameter of 100 fibers on each specimen was measured. The tensile strength of 100 fiber bundles were measured. And also the color values of them were measured with spectrocolorimeter. The length of retted kenaf fiber was 16.97cm. Then it decreased to 11.43cm after bleaching. Kenaf fiber bundles could be finer by chemical processes that remove non-cellulosic materials. The thickness of retted fiber was $132{\mu}m$. And after undergoing the chemical processes to remove non-cellulosic materials, the thickness of kenaf fiber became finer as $73{\mu}m$. Tensile strength of the retted kenaf fiber bundles was 11.37Mpa. The retted kenaf fiber lost their strength as 22.6% by bleaching and as 18.3% by treatment for removing lignin. The retted kenaf fiber showed low whiteness as 56.48 of L*value. After bleaching, the kenaf fibers have creamy white color and their whiteness got 90.02 of L*value. After the treatment for removing hemicellulose, the kenaf fibers also have creamy white color and their whiteness got L* value of 79.02.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.33 no.12
• /
• pp.2002-2010
• /
• 2009

The degradation behavior of berberine is examined using GC-MS to select the fingerprint products that can be used to identify berberine dye in badly faded archaeological textiles. A total of $100^{\circ}C$ thermal and $H_2O_2/UV/O_2$ degradation systems were used to degrade berberine chloride 0.1% solution up to 408 hours. The samples were analyzed using the GC-MS. Dihydroberberine, 2-pteridinamine, 6,7-dimethyl-N-[(trimethylsilyl) oxy]-, and 8-methoxy-11-[3-methylbutyl]-11H-indolo[3,2-c]-quinoline, 5-oxide were detected as the major products of thermal degradation and identified as the fingerprint products for berberine dye at the early stage of degradation. Isobenzofuran-1,3-dione,4,5-dimethoxy-, 9H-fluorene,3,6-bis(2-hydroxyethyl)-,1,3-dioxolo[4,5-g]isoquinolin-5(6H)-one,7,8-dihydro-, and 3-tert-butyl-4-hydroxyanisole were detected as the major products generated by the $H_2O_2/UV/O_2$ degradation and identified as the fingerprint products for berberine dye under severe degradation conditions.