• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.15 no.5
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• pp.902-915
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• 2007

This study examines decorative features found in the traditional costume of the Miao, one of the minority groups in China, and adapts them for the development of modern Korean-style fashion designs in order to present visual sample data and to introduce techniques. As for the research method, both literature and visual data are examined: the former includes Miao-related books and theses; the latter, pictures from various documents and real-life data in the possession of Seoul Women's University. The study result is as follows: 1. The basic structure of Miao costume is consist of a Caftan-type upper garment and an accentuated lower garment, pleats skirt although they are decorated luxuriously with various techniques such as delicate embroidery and dyeing. 2. Details and trimmings in modern shapes are developed and presented by adding modern materials to satin, twists, cross-stitch embroidery, stripe patterns, geometrical patchwork, machine pleats and smoking, trimmings of fringe & feather, and the border line decoration of coloration, braids, piping, embroidery, belts tied and wound with colorful threads. 3. Detachable accessaries such as front reinforcement strips, back reinforcement strips, belts, decorative aprons and patchwork skirts are developed and designed by adapting highlighted layered effects. 4. The silver decoration used as an necessary by the Miao is suitable for modern fashion design in futuristic sense. Various techniques and decorative features of Miao costume display their true value all the more in modern fashion stream in which ethnic trends draw much attention.

• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
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• 2003.10a
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• pp.45-45
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• 2003

The purpose of the study is to find out megatrends and design trend through the analysis of the influential factors on trend and various fields of design trend in the late 20th century. Further, it is to establish database to prospect the design trends of the 21th century by analyzing and estimating the design color trend.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.20
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• pp.125-135
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• 1993

The purposes of this research are firstly to define the characteristics of movement on the costume, secondly to demonstrate that fine art, expecially in relation to kinetic art, has become a good motif in modern costume de-sign, and thirdly to examin the characteristics of movement as shown in modern costume de-sign. For this study, we selected and analyzed some costume designs among those introduced in fashion magazines, which are Collections, Fashion-Preview, Fashion Show, Collezioni, and L'Officiel that have been issued since 1988. As this research is carried out only through the analysis of pictures, it is not ac-companied by a study on material itself. The result of this study is that the ex-pression of movement on modern fashion can be shown in two ways, one is the inclusive and subordinate movement expressed on the cloth-ing according to the motion of body when they are worn, and the other is the movement caused by the very designs of clothing. And the latter can be also divided in two ways, the illusionistic movement and the actual move-ment. The expression of actual movement is made through the emphasis of direction, rhythm, and dimension of the costume. And the illusionistic movement is expressed by the de-sign to which the textile pattern or reflection of light is applied so that the movement is larger than the actual movement. A sense of direction expressed on the cos-tume by the actual movement creates a light rhythm and adds interest to the costume. This reflects a part of psychology of modern men who are not accustomed to the statics. In the rapidly changing society of information our modern men seek after movement even in the statics. It is also true in the clothing and they seem to get a psychological rest through the immediated visual change as shown in fashion design. The simple and cheerful rhythm expressed by the illusionistic movement on the costume is attempted in order to overcome the static tediousness caused by simple design. These elements of movement cause the en-largement of visible range and create another enlarged shape other than the real one, so that they come to remove the dullness and monot-ony in costume design and provoke interest in costume, as if kinetic art reveals the various aspects that transcend the closed area of fine art upon the motif of 'movement'. finally, as this paper deals with the ex-pression of movement as shown in the costume design which prevailed after 1988, it is desir-able hereafter to study more about the fashion since 1950 when kinetic art began in earnest, along with the comparative study on the ex-pression of movement in our Korean designer's and foreign designer's works.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.197-211
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• 2016

Loulan was an ancient kingdom located on the northeast of the Taklamakan Desert, a diverging point between the north and south of Silk Road, on the east of the current Turpan, from the 2nd century BC and the 7th century A.D, absorbing and propagating culture of both sides through active trade. Meanwhile, as many previous research investigations suggest the early trade between Korea and the countries bordering on Western China, characteristics of Loulan costume have been found to have similarity to those of ancient Korean costume. Also, it can be compared to costume in other surrounding regions. Therefore, it is a highly valuable region in researching ancient costume. This study examined the historical background of Loulan and its relationship with ancient Korea, analyzed the clothes found in historic sites of Louland and Niya, and compared costume elements of Loulan and those of Korea. The result of the study shows that first, the Loulan Jeogori was based on the Jikryeonggyoim, with Chaksu, narrow sleeves and the length coming between below the chest and above the bottom, and the line decoration and waist belt were very similar to Korean costumes, as well as the Banryeong, curved collar and Bansu, short sleeves. Second, the types of pants included Gunggo, characterized by closed bottom and many creases, and Daegugo, wide-leg trousers, which are very similar in shape to the Korean Shilla lay sculpture, Stele To Martyr Yi Ch'a-don, Yangjikgongdo and Wangheedo. Third, in accessories as well, the Jowu stuck on the Gwanmo is similar in the shapes to Korean costume.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.17 no.2
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• pp.111-124
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• 2015

This study inferred the symbolism of shaman's costume in China from shamanism and types of shaman's costume in Naje, Deokgang-hyun, Guiju-seong, China through field survey. Shamanism in China has complicated aspects due to negotiations with other culture for a long time while maintaining its own consistency based on ethnicity. Symbolism of shaman's costume in Naje, Guiju-seong, China is observed as follows. First, the shaman's costume in China appears differently from every Jangcha in relation to the position of god appearing in Jangcha when Tolosa takes the position of god as a symbol of sex and god. In Naje of China, the most important shaman's costume indicating the position of god has a unique mask for every deity. It communicates that Tolosa wearing a costume appropriate for the god of wine shall become the god in that Jangcha. Second, the shaman's costume in China has something to do with Yin-Yang and the five elements theory of Taoism as a symbol of shamanism visio of the universe and system of reason. Most of Tolosas hosting Naje are men but dress up as women by wearing Nagun looking like a skirt. Nagun is usually red, the color of Yang, which symbolizes that by wearing such costume that takes color of Yang, Tolosa expels an ominous thing by balancing yin and yang and taking god's strong power. Third, Tolosa takes an eight-breadth Nagun, as a symbol of people. An eight-breadth worn by Tolosa in Naje strengthens the spirit of union and fight of the Tujia nationality who live in Deokgang-hyun, Guiju-seong through folk legends. In this course, a symbolic meaning of the national spirit has been provided on an eight-breadth Nagun, a shaman's costume.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.39 no.1
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• pp.91-105
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• 2015

This paper accomplishes the following points: First, the costume style held by women in the Silla dynasty are examined. Second, a new fashion concept is drawn from Silla's costume images with lessons from analyzing how major brands from China and Japan have adopted their own traditional images. Third, a Korean fashion concept is crafted to reflect important modern fashion design factors. The conclusions of this study are: The concept of Korean fashion using Silla costume image based on the 2015 S/S trend was developed and suggested as: 'Harmony of Contrast', new beauty created by mutually contrasting things; 'Timeless' transcending time-space flowing from the past, present, to future; 'Empathy' where past and present are harmonized; 'Modern with Antique' expressing a new style modernism where the old retains value. The efforts to express identity via conceptualization of Korean fashion are an effective strategy that satisfies the goals of setting Korea's fashion design apart from others and spreading Korean culture.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.4 no.1
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• pp.33-44
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• 2000

The purpose of this study is to research Miao ethnic costume which have been distinctly expressed differences according tribes and areas, present fashion design reflecting image of Miao ethnic costume. Two steps was taken in order to achive this purpose. The first step was to put in order formative characteristics of Miao ethnic costume being based on the Chinese books and domestic research materials. The second step was to study formative characteristics of Miao ethnic costume in comparison 2000A/W fashion trend, illustrate and schematize fashion designs. The results of formative characteristics of Miao ethnic costume are summarized as follows 1. X or H silhouette through skirt & jacket and pants & jacket. 2. Layered look that been twisted around several items. 3. Fine pleats skirts. 4. Refined and splendid color. Black was used main color, dark blue & red purple were used coordi color, vivid color were used accent color 5. Geometrical pattern, cross stitch embroidery. 6. Various ornaments being used silver. 7. Various hair styles and hairdressers. Using above characteristics, this study presneted fusion fashion design combined images of ethnic and techno with dark blue, mustard, blue purple. The target was Forties, professional woman.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.9 no.3
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• pp.270-277
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• 2007

Buddhist temples and halls signify paradise on earth. Buddhist sutras refer to paradise as a place where flowers fall down like snow, fragrance and music fill the air, flowers blossom and butterflies fly. The Kkot Mun of Buddhist temples are an essential part of the creation of this paradise and are ornamented with elaborate sculptures of flowers and animals. The ornamentation of the Kkot Mun is truly admirable for its artistry and beauty. Although the Kkot Mun is an element of Korean traditional Buddhist architecture, it could also be applied to costume work. I thought the characteristic elements of the Kkot Mun for the costume work were the flower, the lattice and the transparent effect that was made with the lattice and Dagjongee. I used the technique of strap cutting, strap twisting and cut-out for the lattice of Kkot Mun and flower making, knitting, cut-out and quilting for the flower of Kkot Mun. I represented the transparent effect of Kkot Mun with the lapped materials. I selected six remarkable Kkot Mun of Korean temples, revised shapes of these and made six costume works. These six costume works would be the suggestion of costume design if an element of Korean traditional architecture was applied to modern costume making.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.3 s.112
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• pp.124-135
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• 2007

Being called 'the period of diversity', the 21st century is taking on a new aspect which is different from the past where a certain phenomenon of a specific area was prescribed as one representative icon of a period. In particular, the globalization culture acted as the catalyst to accept such diversity and it appeared as a new culture code, 'fusion' throughout society and culture. Especially, unlike two-hour movies, the recent drama $\lceil$Gung$\rfloor$ showed various fusion style costume over a period of three months and created a sensation of fusion style costume. Therefore, this study is aimed at investigating fusion style costume by selecting the TV drama $\lceil$Gung$\rfloor$ which was on the air in 2006. Though various studies on fusion style costume, which is becoming a new culture code, have been conducted, this study is meaningful in that it's time to conduct a new study through a popular TV drama. Based on preceding studies on fusion style, the elements of fusion style were analyzed by capturing the most frequently exposed heroine's costume, and new design development introducing fusion elements was attempted for empirical studies. The study results are as follows. First, it was found that the fusion trend is a culture code which already spread to the public and is shown in the fashion in various ways. Second, the drama $\lceil$Gung$\rfloor$, is commented as a new dram which introduced the fusion style costume into Korea through a modern version of constitutional monarchy and is commented as a medium which created an interest in the fusion costume among the public as well. Third, new trend elements of the fusion style could be derived through empirical studies by design development.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.51-66
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to fashion-design the image of Cleopatra on the basis of Cleopatra's characteristic, clothing and its symbolic meaning shown in movie . In movie , Cleopatra(69B.C-30B.C) is described as passionate, intelligent, dignified person and even as enchantress. Costume that Cleopatra wears compound the type of ancient Egyptian costume in New Kingdom, the change of it, and the trend in the 1960's. Their color and pattern also symbolizes religion by adding ancient Egyptian myths to show the absolute royal authority. Therefore, design concepts, determined on the base of Cleopatra's characteristic and symbol meaning, are applied to make creative costume with Cleopatra's image of God Isis. In order to show Cleopatra's dignity, confidence, territorial ambition, black is used as a general base color. To represend Cleopatra's passion and the image of Isis, red is used. And the word 'Kemeto' represents all these symbols. As a whole, dress named 'Kemeto of Cleopatra' is designed and created.