• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.42 no.10 s.200
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• pp.115-128
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• 2004

Social structure has diversified, and changed into the form of pluralism since entering the 21st century. Specially, entering in the 21st century modem fashion is expressed to the luxurious feminism which expresses sensual, strong, and decorative elegant based on the womanly beauty. The gorgeous image is a splendid and luxurious image. Also it is the fashion image which is expressed strongly by the decorative detail elements among the design components. Then, it appears often in modem fashion as the pursuit image of modem persons. Therefore, the purpose of this study was not only to analyze the meaning providence and the diagnostic elements about the gorgeous image that appears often in modem fashion, but also to help the various fashion image representations by arranging the presenting principle and the method of fashion image systematically setting in the trend toward modem fashion. The method of this study was a theoretical research of the literature materials concerned with fashion images by the clothes. Also, the questionnaires were completed by selected specialists as investigation subjects who were variously engaged in the fashion-related fields in order to research the gorgeous image. In the above results. the gorgeous image's diagnostic constituent was grasped laying stress on the characteristic of the clothes. Then, the whole concept named Luxury Imagination was chosen, and 4 suits of the gorgeous image were produced by these results In the diversified and personalized modem fashion with he above results the flowing of the gorgeous image is the part able to be expressed exactly in the view of the image pursued by the public.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.30
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• pp.295-306
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• 1996

A large quantity of exhumed clothing found for recent 20 years has becom-e the material for making a concrete clarification of the structure of clothing in the Chosun dynasty. Exhumed clothing means the clothing found in the coffin when the grave of the ancestor buried several hundred several hundred years ago is removed to another pla-ce and it is almost comprised of ordinary clothes of the grave-owner not mourning clothes as well as clothing and ornaments in the period between the 15th cen-tury and th 19th century. This research is intended to inquire into the kind of chimas in the 16th century before the Imjin Japancese Invasion of Korea during 1592-1598. The after effect of the Imjin Japanese In-vasion was generally reflected in clothing them and the structure of clothing in the Chosun dynasty began to overshadew its di-chotomy with the Imjin Japanese I vasion of Korea as the point. Accordingly this research is concerned with the study of the chima system of the early Chosun dynasty which shows that there is a common point of the identical form though clothing was exhumed in different graves. Therefore it was possible to grasp women's clothing that was fashionable at that time The object for research is the women in the upper class of the 16th century whose representative characteristics are depicted as follows: 1. Women in the upper class wore the splendid clothing similar to the ordinary clothing of court ladies. 2. The division of ordinary chima and ceremonial chima appeared in the concrete. 3. Ceremonial chima had its extra width and length and exhibited its exaggerated silhouette. in particular it had a various forms of over-pleats made at its center front which play a role in supplementing discomfort in walking. This associate bustle and crinolin styles through which the modern design of clothing can be glimpsed. 4. The opposite phenomenon was shown that has been perceived up to now such as folding at the right plain seam the treatment of the edge-and the like. 5. The elaboration of manual needlework shows the culmination of women's workmanship.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.39
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• pp.197-215
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• 1998

Vivienne Westwood, the revolutionary cre-ator of Punk fashion(ripped T-shirts, bondage clothes, fetishist accoutrements) was a street fashion designer. Although Westwood's clothes have frequently been described as decadent, degenerate and unwearable, they have also exerted a powerful influence on interntional fashion. Westwood became a fashion designer in the mid-1970s, when he emergence of Punk put London back on the fashion map for the first time since 1965. Just as the Mods, Rockers, and Hippies of the 1960s had embraced par-ticular styles of dress and music, so also did the Punks create their own subculture. The Punk“style in revolt”was a deliberately“re-volting style”that incorporated into fashion various offensive or threatening objects like tampons, razor blades, and lavatory chains. Vivienne Westwood and parter Malcolm McLaren articulated this youth culture, who roots lay in music. A sign is something which stands for some object or idea, while the semiotics are the ex-ternal expression for an internal meaning. Semiotics can be used as a medium of communication between dress and music. A language is simply used for explicit of meaning, while the style of dress and music express the explicative and implicative signs. Peirce's scheme among several theories of the semiotics was chosen for this study, because the Peirce's scheme was the first non-language communication medium between external and internal stages, and readily inter-preted the styles of dress and music. Punk rock was studied at first to identify the style which influenced Vivienne Westwood's works and then Semiotics were used to apply the above results to the 1970s and 1990s for analyzing and interpreting the Vivienne Westwood's works were also interpreted by the symbolic characteristics of Semiotics, because the symbol of semiotics often found at Youth Cults reflected punk rock. The symbol of revolt, decadence, grungy, freedom in Vivienne Wes-twood's works wre determined by using Punk rock's semiotics. This study could conclude that the style of dress and punk rock were able to be interpreted by semiotics.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.3
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• pp.75-85
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• 2001

The system of washing and shrouding a dead body is a series of procedures for encoffining in funeral rites, which are taken after death indentification by using CHOKWANG and praying for the resurrection of a dead body by calling a soul departed from the body. The washing and shrouding a dead body (hereinafter reffered to as "YEOMSEUP") is the broad concept which contains the procedures of washing, clothing and shrouding the body. The clothing includes washing, putting rices into the mouth. and then dressing while the shrouding includes first wrapping, second-wrapping and encoffining. The clothes for YEOMSEUP (all clothes and articles for funeral rites are designated) will be put in the coffin along with a dead body according to the YEOMSEUP procedures. Dasan, a SILHAK scholar in the late Yi Dynasty, pointed out some problems of the funeral rites observed in those days. At the same time, he found that the problems had arisen from the misinterpretation of the original descriptions in Chinese characters. and had tried to correct them. The books written by Dasan basically emphasized his ideology reshaping the whole procedures by trimming and removing meaningless formalities which are too much luxurious and wasteful and making them as a part of the original principles of the funeral rites. His Intents are clearly shown in his wrings on practical ettiquttes, such as SANGRYESAJON and SANGUIJEOLYO. In its attempt, this study aims at reformulating the DASAN\\`s SANGRYESAJON in terms of YEOMSEUP methods. A lot of virtues of the Dasan, like WOOSU, SIMUI, DAEDAE, MO, SORYUMHYO and DAERYUMHYO could also be found accordingly. The merits and characteristic in funeral rites are an obedience in filial duty, the pursuit of frugality. and the efficiency of practical functions. It could be said that the resurvey of DASAN′s theory on YEOMSEUP procedures is a meaningful work today when the original meaning of funeral rites fades out. Furthermore, discussions of refined burial service and encouraging cremation designed to improve land use, which are widely spread among people, could weaken the basic philosophy of YEOMSEUP and more likely propagate the atmosphere of despising the dignity of human beings.

• Korean Journal of Biological Psychiatry
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• v.24 no.3
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• pp.155-161
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• 2017

Objectives Decision-making in patients with schizophrenia has been known to be inefficient in both cognitive and affective aspects. The purpose of this study was to investigate the influence of anhedonia and self-esteem on the decision-making process in schizophrenia. Methods Twenty patients with schizophrenia and 21 healthy controls performed the 'apparel purchase decision-making task', during which they were asked to respond to the preference, fitness, and price suitability, before making the final purchase decision. Generalized estimating equation and correlation analysis were conducted to explore for the difference of decision making patterns and influential factors between the two groups. Results The patients showed lower odds ratio (OR) of the fitness on the apparel purchase decision than the controls [OR 0.190 ; 95% confidence interval (CI) 0.047-0.762, p = 0.019). In the patient group, there was no correlation between the number of purchased trials and the severity of anhedonia, but the number of purchased trials was negatively correlated with the Rosenberg Self-Esteem Scale score at a trend level (R = -0.436, p = 0.055). Conclusions Patients with schizophrenia considered the fitness of clothes less than healthy controls on apparel purchasing decisions. Schizophrenia patients with lower self-esteem were intended to buy more clothes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.2
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• pp.101-118
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• 2003

This paper describes pop stars' fashion style by the changes of pop music from the 1950's of the formative Period of a rock-n-roll to the 1990's. The author could examine the features of pop music as follows : the 1950's rock-n-roll, the 1960's rock and Psychedelic rock. the 1970's punk rock, the 1980's new wave and the 1990's reggae·hip-hop. Based on the examination, the author could do sampling of the fashion style, on which current pop music had influence, by rock style, new wave style, and reggae hip-hop style. The rock style makes appearance again as a new style when it is recently accepted to be a fashion. The 1960's hippie, which contains long-cherished desire of antiwar and peace after September 11, 2001 Attack on America and the Afghan War. reappeared as luxurious hippie, and the hybrid punk has been made because barriers between cultures have been collapsed to mix items and combine contradicting components at fashion field. The new wave style destroys sex difference of clothes. and men's clothes style has introduced women's dress style, so that androgynous style, which has handsome boy image with womanlike hair style and makeup, and the lingerie style without distinction of underwear and outer garment has made appearance through new cloth wearing ways and overexposure. The reggae and hip-hop style makes appearance to overcome social strata, groups, ages, regions and gender, etc and become one of the 21s1 century culture codes. In conclusion, pop music have played very important roles until expansion and popularity of new fashion style, and has been quickly expanded by mass media development. When the pop music fashion styles are introduced to high fashion, fashion styles have become more polished and high-qualify to expand them at main fashion world again.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.5
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• pp.91-107
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to investigate the experimental design by using deconstructive design and mobile design depicted on Hussein Chalayan' works. Hussein Chalayan, the Turkish-Cypriot who is based in London, says' Challenging is the best word for me'. And so word, 'radical' that has difficult connotations was chosen for this study It implies two menainigs for the word. The first thing is "extreme" - something that is drastic. And 'Applied to clothes', it can probably mean "experimental". He has iconoclastic ideas and his ramp shows are always high on concept, experimentation of art and utility. His approach to fashion derives from philosophical and intellectual theories of deconstruction and mobility, which he expresses through his designs. Deconstructionism, in fashion, rejects customary rules and breaks all conventions. It questions aesthetic norms about bodily proportions and the criteria of beauty, emphasizes the adding on, or discovery of, an irrational moment, and reveals the processes of tailoring in clothing. The shape and the construction of the garment is more important than the color. Cuts. tears, asymmetries, matching different materials are among the most evident features of the deconstructive design. And Chalayan performed the mobile design of transforming furniture into clothes. Chair covers became dresses. a coffee table became a skirt which were designed by Chalayan, with geometric and architectural references. Chalayan says he was inspired by the idea of refugees fleeing. Besides Chalayan uses clothing as an art to reinterpret and reform the human body in a continuous tour de force of body/identity conceptualism and dressmaking. He reflect the body's function in the cultural context of architecture, science, or nature - and then attempt to translate his findings into clothing.dings into clothing.

• The Korean Journal of Community Living Science
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.21-30
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• 2008

This study conducted a survey to compare the size of ready-made clothes for different body shapes and body sizes, and to discover the differences in satisfaction with the size of ready-made clothes. The subjects were women in their 208 and 308 from Busan and Gyeongnam. The women were classified into groups: normal weight, overweight, and obese, using the Body Mass Index (BMI). The comparison of the body size showed a significant difference among the shapes; the average BMI in overweight women was 24.2 while that of obese women was 27.6. For the clothing size for each body shape, obese women most often wore size 77 and size 88, regardless of the sizes of upper and lower garments. The size consistency of upper and lower garments was the lowest in obese women. However, in most of the shapes, women tended to choose larger-sizes for lower garments than for upper ones. The more obese the subject, the less inclined they were to wear garments for their real body size. Satisfaction with the clothing size was significantly different between body shapes; the more obese, the lower the level of satisfaction with the size. As well, satisfaction with the fit of clothing at certain parts was shown to be low especially in the bust measurement, shoulder width, upper garment length, crotch length, and thigh circumference. When surveyed about the use of alterations for different body shapes, the results were that over 65% of subjects did not alter upper garments regardless of their body shape. Comparatively, 68% or above of all body shapes did do alterations to lower garments for example, the length of pants or skirts.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.8
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• pp.992-1003
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• 2003

This study analyzes the actual state of the working uniforms worn by burning waste workers to protect their body from the hazardous environment. Directions for improvement of the clothing fabrics is also suggested. We visited and interviewed those persons who worked in the burning waste plant in Seoul and in Gyunggi Province. 245 workers were surveyed by questionnaires, and 211 workers out of 245 were statistically analyzed. Frequencies and percentages were calculated and $\chi$$^2$ test, ANOVA and Scheffe Post hoc comparison methods were utilized to test some hypothesis. The working uniforms were classified as four general types: separate type, disposable-coverall. overall, and winter clothes. At present, the working uniforms are not suitable for the conditions which they are used. There is a lack of ventilation and an inability to absorb perspiration limited elasticity, and the uniforms are prone to static shock. The degree of satisfaction varied significantly, based on the worker's educational background and main work. However, only a small percentage of workers interviewed were satisfied with the appearance and the fit of the present working uniforms. The working duration had a negative impact on the satisfaction of the worker. This results suggest that materials, colors, design and size of working clothes must be improved. The suggestions are as follows: Firstly. to use disposable non-woven fabrics finished to increase moisture regain. Secondly. to use the bad air permeability fabrics to protect the skin from absorbtion of harmful gases, flying dust, heavy metals, etc.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.5 s.164
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• pp.692-704
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• 2007

Recently, Basic patterns with excellent body fitness and automation availability are required to be developed in order to automate the patterns of women's clothes. In this study, this reference points, reference lines and segments were fixed onto 3D scan data for the lower body the women in their twenties, they were directly spread out to be 2D flat pattern to facilitate development into the design of slacks adhered closely to the human body such as special and highly-functional clothes, and then slacks 2D pattern was developed for the purpose of seeking scientific approach to the development into basic form slacks and 3d emotional pattern. For conversion of 3D pattern into 2D flat pattern, reference points and segments were created by using Rapid Form of 3D shape analysis software, and triangle mesh of the body surface of the created shape was developed with Auto CAD 2005. The correspondence between slacks and human body was examined by the fixation of major reference lines. Specially, the wearing characteristics of slacks were considered by the fixation of side lines in consideration of posture. As a result of using the way of development to constantly maintain the length while 3D triangle mesh is converted into 2D flat mesh, the shape was shown to be excellently reproduced, and the area of flat pattern was increased compared to the shape of parting plane. Also, the sunk-in curve like the brief line of front crotch length needed a cutting line when it was closely adhered, when mesh was overlapped, and the pattern area was smaller compared to the actual shape.