• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.40 no.12
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• pp.189-197
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• 2002

The purpose of the study is to analyze the suitability of ready-to-wear apparels for adult women by considering their body types. 341 women aged from 20 to 60 were surveyed for this study. The survey was taken from November, 1999 through November, 2000. The subjects were classified into 4 groups(thin, normal young aged, normal middle aged, fat) according to BMI and Rohrer index. For data analysis, descriptive statistics, crosstabs, F-test, Duncan-test were used. As the result, it is our findings that, in purchasing clothes, especially in case of pants, people choose them mostly based on waist and hip. However, in that the normal young aged group bases thigh circumference, we need to consider such points. As for one-piece, height was an important factor, while chest was the most important factor for the fat group. In relation to the suitability of ready-to-wear garments, the groups showed significant differences for blouses, one-pieces, and jackets, respectively. Blouses didn't fit 29.8% of the fat group, and one pieces fitted thin or normal subjects to some extent. However, one pieces didn't fit 34% of the fat group while jackets didn't fit 51.4% of them. This result shows that there are difficulties in choosing clothes dependent on body types.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.1
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• pp.76-90
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• 2010

Gwa-du(裹肚), name of a garment, appears often from documentary records of Joseon Dynasty. It is assumed as one of the upper garments for men, and according to the record, it was worn as a set with Dan-ryung(團領), Dap-ho(搭胡), Chul-rik(帖裏), Han-sam(汗衫), pants and socks. After the Japanese Invasion of Korea in the 17th century, it changes to a shape of wrapping clothes with straps at four corners, and used to cover the stomach of a corpse like sash. From 16th-17th century, before the Japanese Invasion of Korea, the excavated costume shows a clothing which takes a role of Jegori, longer than Han-sam(汗衫) and shorter than Po(袍). In this study, this clothing is called Gwa-du(裹肚). This study examined the usage and shape of Kwa-du from some documentary records- "朝鮮王朝實錄-The Annals of the Joseon Dynasty", "禮書- Book of Manners", "宮中件記- Googjoonghalkee, recording court goods and commodities lists" and more with actual clothing. Kwa-du is presumed to have changed to men's Jegori So-chang-ui(小氅衣) after 17th century.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.10
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• pp.65-79
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• 2010

Each season, many clothing companies dump small pieces of fabrics left over from making samples. Since fabrics do not decompose easily, this results in environmental pollution. This research was done to discover effective ways to reuse these fabric remnants. As most of these remnants were not large enough for making clothes, fashion accessories was chosen as the design object. Four steps of design development process followed: information research & analysis, prototype design & sample making, market testing, final design decision. After market research and trend analysis, four neck decoration wear -- scarf & muffler(SM). collar & cape(CC), vest & top(VT), and necklace(NE) -- were selected as final product types. 45 designs arose, and 120 items with variations in fabric materials and colors were produced as samples. The three main themes (multiple. reversible, cross) were applied throughout all of the design items. Samples were evaluated from the reactions of the consumers through a 10-day sale at a retail store. Based on the sales record and customers' opinions, five designs from each of the product types SM, CC, and VT were picked out as final designs. In conclusion, fashion accessories turned out to be a more appropriate item to reuse fabric remnants from clothing companies than clothes were, because they necessitate small fabric size and the limitation in fabrics could be compensated with creative design ideas.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.2
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• pp.144-156
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• 2015

This research aims to develop textile patterns using mythical motives based on Buldoje in the Jeju myth. this textile design is not only decoration effect by filling the space, but also plays the original role of a pattern by expressing its symbolic meaning. The research methods are as follows: 1) Using integral analysis on materials related to the myth of Jeju and Gime used in Buldoje Gut, where Halmangbonpuli story is performed to set formative elements for textile design and their meanings; 2) Designing motive by composing formative elements; 3) Coloring properly; and 4) Layout motives. Adobe CS5 (Photoshop, Illustrator) and TexPro, a design CAD program, were used for textile design. Motives were combined in a various ways. Two-directional, four-directional, set, rotating, toss layout techniques, which are frequently used in apparel design and able to reduce cloth use, were used in developing patterns. Coloring methods including tone-in-tone and Faux camaieu were used to deliver coherence and soft effects. Developed textile design symbolizes the desire for the conception of a child, birth, and health, so it is made on baby clothes. In doing so, the plan for development of a fashion-cultural product applying Jeju myth symbol is suggested.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.7
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• pp.17-34
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• 2011

This study examined how Bangryeong(方領) had been changed from ancient times in China to the Joseon dynasty[朝鮮] in Korea by analyzing Bangryeong in literature, relics, paintings, etc. Based on this, we also analyzed the form of Bangryeong itself and clothes with Bangryeong using excavated relics from the Joseon dynasty. First, from early Chinese literature, it was confirmed that meaning of "Bangryeong" was a collar attached straight to a garment so that if the garment is put on with the fronts intercrossed with each other the back neck part of the collar is naturally squared. Second, from literature in the Joseon dynasty, it was confirmed that the meanings and forms of Bangryeong were diversified and had different characteristics throughout different time periods. Different from its original meaning in China, Bangryeong came to mean an intentionally designed square shape. Third, Bangryeong from the Yuan(燕) and Ming(明) Dynasties were found among relics excavated in China. Bangryeong from Yuan was Cheolik[帖裏] worn by men, and Bangryeong from Ming was found in women's dresses. Fourth, Bangryeong relics from the Joseon dynasty examines its form in detail. Bangryeong was found in various forms of clothes, and this was consistent with findings from literature review.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.8
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• pp.125-136
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• 2007

This study is about the excavated female shroud while moving the graveyard of Nam-yang Hong clan in Yang-pyeong, Gyeonggi Province to other place. It is acquired as Yeon-An Kim clan who is a wife of one of Nam-yang Hong clan and history is estimated to 16th Century. Significance of this excavated female costumes is, 1) a Dan-ryeong, which is typical costumes during 16C. for woman is excavated. It is embroidered with peacocks shaped badge in fore and backside on a clothes, which is understood as the symbol of highest status but it is considered as much higher than actual status of her husband. from this, we can assume that burial costumes and regulation for actual clothes by the status are not exactly matched. 2) Various form of Chima and Jegori also found in the grave along with a Buddhist banner(幡) printed with Darani(多羅尼) which is unusual in Chosun dynasty, under confucian influence. 3) An embroidered design pillow was collected first time, which make us enable to understand the in-house life style of 16C.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.5
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• pp.87-101
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• 2013

This paper researches the system of the official's gongbok(公服) during the reign of emperor Hongwu(洪武帝) in the Ming dynasty, and it is based on DaMingLing(大明令), DaMingJili(大明集禮), HongwuLizhi(洪武禮制), ZhusiZhizhang(諸司職掌), DaMingHuidian(大明 會典), MingTaizuShilu(明太祖實錄), and MingShi(明史). Official's gongbok is consisted of clothes, belt(帶), bokdu, scepter(笏), and black shoes. The system of official's gongbok wa schanged through three stages. First, the system of the Yuan dynasty(元代) was maintained in January, 1368, which was the first year of the emperor's reign. Second, the gongbok system was established in November, 1368. The system stated that the clothes had to be red-colored(赤色) regardless of rank and the belt was divided into okdai(玉帶), seodai (犀帶), gumdai(金帶), and kwangsoeundai (光素銀帶). Third, the system was revised in June, 1391, which was the 24th year of his reign. According to the rank, the clothing colors were divided into scarlet(緋色), blue(靑色), and green(綠色). The belt was divided into okdai, seodai, gumdai, and ogaggai(烏角帶). 'Hongmu26nyunjung(洪武26年定)' recorded on the Wanli's edition(萬曆本) of the DaMingHuidian has the meaning of ZhusiZhizhang regulations.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.863-875
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• 2011

The purpose of this study was to survey the clothing behavior, care and the fiber preferences of multi-cultural families living in Korea. The data was collected using questionnaire surveys based on pre-tests, and a main survey conducted in Seoul, Gyeonggi Province and Chungcheong Province. The 258 participants came from 151 multi-cultural families and 107 Korean families. The results of this study were as follows: First, Filipinos owned more clothes than the Chinese and bought clothes more frequently. The Filipinos spent 10,000~30,000 Korean won on all types of clothing. Each time, the Chinese spent more money when purchasing jackets. Second, when health was the greatest concern for underclothes, they chose cotton fiber as their preferred fiber. When beauty was of greatest concern for blouses they chose cotton. When beauty was of greatest concern for skirts and jackets they chose natural fibers such as silk, wool or linen. Filipinos preferred synthetic fibers because they are easy to care for, and the Chinese preferred natural fibers due to their beauty, especially for pants. Third, multi-cultural families laundered at home using only a washing machine. All fibers were laundered together into the washer without any sorting. This study can contribute to providing basic data for an understanding of the clothing behavior and laundry styles of multi-cultural families which may be useful data in the apparel market in Korea given the relative and direct changes relevant to various clothing cultures.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.164-172
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• 2000

The purpose of this study was to investigate the most appropriate arm-hole depth in 9 positions of arm movements. This subjects were four females, college students aged 18 to 23 years old. The clothing size 55 was used for this study. In the experiments for the investigation of the arm-hole depth, the evaluations were performed for aesthetic view, clothing adaptability to arm movements, and quantity of materials pulled up by 9 movements of arm. The results of this study were as follows: 1) In the aesthetic evaluation, there were no significant differences in arm-hole depths. 2) In the evaluation of clothing adaptability to arm movements, the experiment clothes, in which-arm-hole depths were raised, had more positive evaluations especially with the increasing the angle of arm movements. 3) In the evaluation of clothing adaptability to each body areas, there were no significant differences in all body areas except upper arm circumference blade. 4) In the evaluation of quantity of materials pulled up by arm movements, the clothes of B/4-2 arm-hole depth had the least amount pulled up by arm movements, which showed the highest adaptability to arm movement.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.7
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• pp.1055-1065
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• 2002

The specific objectives of the survey were as follows: 1) to survey the knit wear purchasing behavior of the women in their twentieth and thirtieth, 2) to investigate the popular design, color, pattern and material, 3) to analyze the difference of knit wear purchasing behavior and preference. The data was on the base of the results of 321 pcs survey reports. The analysis methods was Means, Percentage, Frequencies, t-test and One-way ANOVA. The results of this study were as follows: 1) Most women were purchasing knit wear for combination with having other clothes. They were satisfied for design, color, activity and quality, but not for size changing after washing, keeping problems and raising of pilling. They liked simple or classic design, mono or pastel color, and no or simple skip pattern, check pattern. 2) The Single women were more purchasing knit wear by impulse for soft and easy handling, combination with other clothes, meet fashion trend than married women. And the women in their twentieth were get more informations for knit wear from mess media and displayed shop than the women in their thirtieth.