• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.4
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• pp.111-123
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is to correctly understand the shaping process of Mongolian women's costumes, which had close connection with Korean costumes. 'Nomadic' factors of Mongol costumes are trousers and jacket, with deel(袍) pleated in the waistline for horse riding, and knee-covering narrow-sleeved long dress for men and women alike for protection against the cold. However, Married women wore bogthag(gogo: ) containing symbols derived from nomadic way of life. 'Foreign' factors are divided into two kinds; foreign culture applied to Mongolian costumes(woven stuff, Koryo style), and transformation in costumes to adjust to the environmental alteration owing to extended territory(pigap(比甲), Jacket and skirt), the last of which served as the chief distinction between nomadic and Y an fashions. 'Religious' factors are unique patterns and colors while retaining their symbolism. Some aspects(mongke tengri or eternal sky) of Shamanism is reflected in avoidance of washing, while positive effect of Lamanism is evidenced in yellow cosmetic applied on the forehead and 16 sky devil dance clothes.dance clothes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.7
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• pp.131-142
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• 2010

The ethnic image in modern fashion can be interpreted as a trend of post-modernism, which appeared after modernism's established style. It has relativity, pluralism and variety, and it tries to revive style of the past. This makes style that borrows and combines image and style of different era and culture as distinctive feature, and in turn is expressed by a new image that is combined with the country's clothes. Also, thanks to the customers who are tired of artificiality and convenience, gift of modern science and technology, simple and natural sensitive marketing and being 'raw' are getting popular as new trend. Today's ethnic image is not merely borrowing visual, superficial image of culture and clothes of other ethnic group, but pursuing natural as purely created by human senses rather than being polished. In terms of ethnic image's formative beauty and aesthetic value, foreign and domestic collections are compared. But for domestic image, only Korean ones are researched, and for foreign designer's fashion image, there are ethnic styles of Japan, China and Korea. Although the documents of domestic designers that I investigated is not sufficient, canonic simple being of oriental image that is seen by the westerners is summarized.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.11 no.3 s.25
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• pp.79-88
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• 1987

In order to investigate the hand values and mechanical properties such as tensile, shearing, bending, compression, surface and thickness & weight of the women's summer fabrics were measured by KES-F system. Sorts of 78 commercial fabrics of women's summer cloth were classfied into 43 silk and 35 polyester fabrics according to materials. The experimental results were analysed statistically to relate the hand values and the mechanical properties and concerning to formation of weared clothes and transformation behavior were investigated. The main results are summarized as follows; 1. Polyester fabrics show higher tensile deformation than those of silk fabric. And also polyster fabric has a easy to shape-less and makes a silhouette which goes along with the body. 2. Silk fabrics is superior to polyester fabrics in formation and shear elasticity building box-shaped silhouette. 3. Polyester fabrics show sufficient ability to recover from tending deformation and drapability On the other hand, the compressibility and bending rigidity of silk fabrics were superior to polyester fabrics. 4. Regardless of materials, the bending properties is closely assocsiated with stiffness, anti-drape stiffness and flexibility with soft feeling. Fullness & softness and crispness is primarily influenced by surface properties. There is substantive relationship between scrooping and sheaing properties.

• Journal of Korean Home Economics Education Association
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.1-13
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• 1990

The purpose of this study is to investigate the degree of learning interest in the curriculum of home economics for the middle and high school girls in korea and Japan, and to obtain the basic guidance for the improvement of the effect of home economics education. In this study korea and Japanese textbooks were compared and the questionaires were administered to 290 middle school girls and 270 high school girls in Chong-Ju, korea, and 261 middle school girls and 248 high school girls in Tokyo, Japan. The obtained data were analyzed by percentile and $\chi$$\^$2/-test. In comparision of the degree of interest in hand sewing and machine sewing korean middle school girls showed higher interest than the high school girls, on the other hand, in Japan, the high school girls were more interested. In the unit of making a simple clothes, the middle school girls of both countries were more interested than the high school girls, and the degree of interest of Japanese girls was higher than that of korean girls.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50 no.6
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• pp.89-107
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• 2000

Underwear has undertaken the auxiliary role of outwear also. Thus, as outwear has changed forming the characteristic mode in every period, underwear has changed endlessly, so that it may match the form and function of outwear, in accordance with the stream of period. In this study, this researcher examined hoop and petticoat which were used for widening the skirt which is female clothes with diverse names in every period. under one name which is farthingale, centering around the West and korea, from 16th century to 20th century(the first term). In addition, it examined by comparison the relevancy between to the history and change factor of underwear which was used for swelling the skirt in Korean clothes. The result to have studied on the history and change factor about the farthingale of West and Korea is as follows: This study found that the silhouette of women's clothing has a strong relationship with underwear. Also The result to compare the underskirt of the West with that of Korea is as follows : They has other character, but in 18th century, being compared the underskirt of the West with that of Korea, for the swelling of skirt, this study found that they had something in common with the underskirt of the West and Korea.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.5
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• pp.7-11
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• 1981

In the vast extent of time, man and his ancestors have existed on earth about 2,000,000 years. For Near-Man, they knew how to make fire and protected themselves with hairs. Old-Man covered their bodies with the skins of wild animals. New Man improved the quality, the range and ingenuity, so they fabricated clothes with the animal skins. New Man is considered as ancestor of Modern Man. They had spread widely over the earth to take advantage of their surroundings. The next period, New Stone Age was chiefly distinguished by agricultural age. He was now about to make clothes from natural fibers. The two most obvious orgins of clothing are to protect the body against environment and to decorate the body. The forms of clothing were different from the various climates and regions they had settled, for example Yo-po Hyung (Apron), Kwae-po Hung (Sewn garment), Kwan-doo Hyung (Poncho), Chun-kae Hyung (Frontopend garment), Chai-hyung Hyung (Body-conforming shape). Our ancestor had moved from Baikal Lake, Central Asia toward northeast; Shun-tung in China, Manchuria and at last Han Panninsula. Considering our basic costume of ancient times were Yu(jacket), Ko(trousers), Sang(skirt), Po (coat) with the accessories of Kwan (crown), Mo (hat), Dai (belt), Hwa, Eie (footwear), here I conjecture our costume of prehistoric period was Chaihyung Hyung(Body-conforming shape) in the purpose of body covering.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.2
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• pp.75-91
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• 2015

This study is about Jongi-sim(Paper used for interlining) used in costumes of the Joseon Dynasty. Terms related to Jongi-sim include 'Anji(按紙)', 'Soh(槊)' and 'Gyeok(隔)'. Anji is a term that refers to Jongi-sim used on padded clothes. Soh refers to stiff and thick paper inserted between fabrics. Gyeok is predicted to be a term that refers to the use of paper as both interlining and lining. Chojuji(草注紙) was used for Jongi-sim in Cheolik, Aekjueum, Baji and Dae among kings and crown princes' ceremonial costumes. Chojuji and Jeojuji(楮注紙) were used in women's royal costumes such as Jeogori, Hosu and Chima. Doryeonji(搗鍊紙) was used in Dae and Yangyieom. Gongsangji(供上紙) was used for the interlining or lining in Yangyieom. Excavated costumes that used Jongi-sim for the entire clothes are Cheolik and Jangjeogori. Jongi-sim placed in Git(collar) was sometimes placed together with cotton. Geodeulji of Jangot used paper in invisible parts as to replace fabric by paper. Danryeong and Dapho attached Jongi-sim to Mu, and stiff paper was inserted.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.13-22
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• 1982

While the women of the Korea Dynasty wore hat(笠子) and Mongsu(蒙首) on top of it when going out, the Yi Dynasty, due to more strict Contucian ethics and isolated way of life, had seen the development of the covering clothes, rather veil, for avoiding the opposite sex with diversity and both men and women began wearing PHO(coat), a Korean topcoat over the head and thurs called Changots, but originally PHO for men was named Changyi a men's outer coat. Neuwul(羅兀), like Mongsu(蒙首) of Korea Dynasty was a thin black hood worn on top of the Wowllip or a kind of skirt draped over the head and the latter was called Changots, very similar to Sgaechima, a kind of long hood formally worn by women. Meanwhile, local women wore a long veil with no arm sleeves dubbed Cheunyi(薦衣) But since western civilization and culture landed on Korea around the end of the 19th century, the women's social status has been raised to almost the same level with men and the way of life has changed towards openness, in which men and women have almost daily contact with one another, so these days we can hardly find such veil style covering clothes around us.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.2 s.161
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• pp.247-257
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to develop men's garment sizing system, based on the anthropometric measurements called 'SizeKorea', which was surveyed between 2003 and 2004. The number of the survey subjects was 3,215 of males, who were from 18 to 69 years old. In the results, body types were assorted by drops, consisting of 4 upper body types and 2 lower body types. Height, chest, waist and hip were selected as the key dimensions of sizing system and the intervals of them were decided on statistical analysis of key dimensions, size intervals of ready-to wear clothes and sizing systems of other countries. In the results, older group or shorter height group had less differences between chest and waist as well as between waist and hip, but younger group and taller group had more differences. The size intervals for fitted jacket and coat were 3cm in chest and waist, while the intervals for fitted pants were 2cm in waist and hip. The intervals for not-fitted clothes were 5cm in chest, waist and hip, which 5 cm interval of height were applied, in all cases.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.24 no.4
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• pp.530-537
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• 2000

The purpose of this study is to develop the measuring tool that can grasp the relationship between body and pattern, the result can be directly digitalized and developed as the pattern as body form is. There are 6 measurements; 1) the width of front and rear neck 2) the slant degree of shoulder 3) the degree of protrusion of breasts and scapulae 4) the separation of front and rear board 5) space between body and clothes 6) vertical strand in the clothes Developed measuring tool is handy in un. in which points of body to be measured are small, and it has the capability of designing the high fitness for body. The measurer developed through this study is named as $\ulcorner$Somato-pattern Measurer$\lrcorner$, size paper is named$\ulcorner$Somato-pattern Paper$\lrcorner$and the pattern made by$\ulcorner$Somato-pattern Measurer$\lrcorner$is named$\ulcorner$Somato-pattern$\lrcorner$respectively by our team. The result of this study is thought to make a great contribution to solving the various problems which can be derived in the time of pattern design because of the difference of physical forms in the same size as well as the difference between the factor of size and that of form in body.