• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.28 no.1
• /
• pp.54-65
• /
• 2004

The purpose of this study was to identify the impact of fashion life styles of TV-home shoppers on their fashion goods purchasings. This study analyzed TV home shoppers grouped into clusters based on their fashion life styles and identified their product-related evaluative criteria and purchasing intention according to clusters. This study also analyzed whether there are differences in clusters according to their socio-economic status. Utilizing the convenient sampling method, the sample of the study is composed of women aged over 20 living in the Seoul metropolitan area. Of 380 distributed, 196 useful questionnaires were returned. The data were analyzed using factor analysis, cluster analysis, $\chi$$^2$analysis, and One-way ANOVA. The results are as follows: Regarding fashion life styles, 5 factors, 1) fashion leadership, 2) shopping-involvement, 3) fashion image, 4) economics and 5) anti-fashion attitude were obtained. Based on the factor scores, 4 clusters, 1) aesthetic-orientation, 2) economics and fashion innovation-orientation, 3) conspicuous consumption-orientation and 4) anti-fashion attitude, were identified. Regarding the product-related evaluative criteria, there were significant differences in price, fashionability, design, size, brand reliability, refund policy, and appearances when worn according to clusters. There were also significant differences in purchasing intention when purchasing low price products and fashion items such as under wears, night and home wears, suits, leather and fur clothes, purse and bags, and shoes. Regarding the socio-econmic status, age, marital status, and occupation were significantly different according to clusters.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.23 no.8
• /
• pp.1194-1205
• /
• 1999

The hand characteristics of bast blended fabrics are studied by a subective evaluation method. To offer basic data for development of better hand of bast fiber fabrics customer's hand preference surveys are executed as well. IN this study 51 varieties of linen or ramie blended fabrics of various blending ratio density and thickness and Hansan ramie Chinese ramie and a Shingosen fabics of various blending ratio density and thickness and Hansan ramie Chinese ramie and a Shingosen farbic and used. To evaluate the hand of the fabrics subjectively nine ranks' semantic differential scale questions of 26 items are developed with adjective pairs. A seven ranks' scale is also developed to evaluate hand preferences in blouse and jacket cloths, Through subjective evaluation of bast blended fabrics the 26 items could be classified into seven kinds of hand classification : surface characteristics extensibility/drapability felling of heaviness stiffness resilience moisture property and feeling of density. The cumulative variance value explained by these seven factors is 67.18% According to the results of fabrics' preference by age groups no significant differences are found in blouse cloths but a few significant differences are found among different age groups in jacket clothes. However experts and non-experts show considerable differences on preference It can be concluded that fabrics' preference I more dependent on professionality than on age. In the survey experts. However more drapery cloths are preferred by experts and cloths with drier touch are preferred by non-experts. Experts prefer rougher less even less winding heavier and sparser fabrics but non-experts prefer rougher lighter thinner and stiffer fabrics as jacket cloths.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.28 no.7
• /
• pp.983-994
• /
• 2004

The aim of this study is to provide fundamental data on the development of ready-to-wear clothes appropriate for the body types of elderly women. The study was conducted targeting 318 elderly women over 60 years of age whose fields of action were colleges for the elderly, sports centers, or business sites in Seoul and the neighboring districts. A total of 44 features in the upper body were used for the anthropometric measurement and analysis using anthropometry and photometry. The results of the study are as follows: 1. Somatotypes were classified into three types according to a cluster analysis using height and weight indices. Type 1 is the group with long and undersized upper body and straight body type since the face of the upper body is long relative to height and width, girth and depth are the smallest relative to weight, the breasts are somewhat fat, with a small extent of drooping and a straight back. Type 2 is the group that is considered fat relative to the body, has broad shoulders, drooping breasts with a wide space between them, and a back-bent upper body. Type 3 is the group that has a bent shape, the shortest upper body relative to height, and showing average obesity factors. 2. Indices of height and weight were used for factor analysis, cluster analysis, and discriminant analysis in order to classify upper body somatotype according to shape while excluding size factors of elderly women＇s upper body somatotype. The same method was used to compare and verify the result according to the absolute measurement and height index. Classification based on height and weight indices demonstrate that such somatotype classification minimizes the personal equation of body shape and it induces better classification based on shape as the results showed the highest cumulative sum of square(CUSUM) at 78.38% while six factors showed the smallest result and the hit rate for the classified three groups showed the highest result at 95.30%.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.26 no.11
• /
• pp.1672-1681
• /
• 2002

To evaluate the thermal environments and the workload of farmers in the rice field in summer, this study investigated rice farmers' physiological, psychological responses, work postures, work clothes, air temperature and air humidity during the spraying pesticide in the rice field. Five career farmers (3 males, 2 females) volunteered as the subjects. During the spraying pesticide in the rice field, physiological responses were monitored continuously. The results were as follows. l. Farmers wore only raincoats not pesticide-proof clothing. 2. The value of WBGT, rectal temperature($T_{re}$), mean skin temperature(${\={T}}_{sk}$) were $24.9∼28.9^{\circ}C,\;37.8({\pm}0.3)^{\circ}C\;and\;33.6({\pm}0.6)^{\circ}C$, respectively. Clothing microclimate temperature($T_{cl}$) on the chest and back were $32.5({\pm}2.6)^{\circ}C\;and\;33.6({\pm}2.6)^{\circ}C$, respectively(p<0.00l). Humidity inside of the clothing ($H_{cl}$) was over 80%RH and heart rate(HR) was 112(${\pm}27$)bpm. We evaluated that the spraying pesticide was 'heavy work' by the Tre and HR. To four subjective questionnaires, all farmers expressed 'hard, hot, humid and uncomfortable' without individual difference at the end of works. We suggested that 1) the spraying pesticide in the rice field was a heavy work, 2) because the workload of farmers in the raincoat/pesticide-proof clothing can't be evaluated by only WBGT, assessors should measure physiological, psychological responses as well as thermal environments, 3) to alleviate farmers' heat strain, clothing manufacturers must consider not only the improvement of textile materials and clothing weight but also the designing of personal cooling equipment.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.20 no.2
• /
• pp.282-297
• /
• 1996

The effective construction for ready-made clothes is one of the central concerns of both consumers and manufactuers in today's apparel industry. In order to reduce the burden of stocks and increase clothing fitness, systematic information on typical body sizes and somatotypes is essential. The purpose of this study i-: to provide basic data on young women's somatotypes for form designers and pattern makers. The subjects of the survey were 310 women of 18 to 26 years old. The study collected 84 anthropometric data for each Person. The data was analyzed by using of the multivariate method. The factor analysis was utilized in regard to the 65 items obtained from anthropometric measurement respectively. The principal component analysis was applied to the data with orthogonal rotation after extraction. The factor scores used in the factor analysis became the basis of determining the value of each variable of the cluster analysis. The cluster analysis was applied for identifying typical somatotypes. Ward's minimum variance method was applied for the purpose of extracting distance metrix by the standardized Euclidean distance. The element forming each cluster can be subdivided into several sets by crosstabulation which is obtained by the fastclus of the SAS. This research has demonstrated 3 distinctive types of silhouette contour of the trunk. Incidentally it also identified 4 of the lower body from the waistline to thigh contour respectively. The discriminant analysis showed that the most significant discriminant factor of the trunk classification were side neck point -1 scapular -1 waistiline length and waist girth. In Korea, the average somatotype of female college students tends to be tall, slim and straight. Reviewing the relationship between the classifications of three parts of body, they are related to each other to some extent but their distribution are not constant. Therefore, in view of clothing construction, a proper separation of the body surface is a necessity.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.30 no.5 s.153
• /
• pp.772-778
• /
• 2006

Silk organza can make the silhouette of clothes bulky and rich, owing to its stiffness. And silk organza in the gum has better dyeability so can be dyed more bright and deeper color than scoured silk because silk organza has sericin gum that has better dyeability than fibroin. So, silk organza came into the most broad use as the material for Hanbok, especially in summer. But the silk organza has poor color fastness. Sericin is removed from organza when silk organza go through scouring. The purpose of this research is to find out the optimum conditions that the scoured silk fabrics can get stiffness by persimmon juice treatment. For experiments, non scoured, partially scoured and fully scoured silk fabrics were prepared by alkali treatments. Then 3 kinds of silk fabrics were treated with the concentration of 1, 5, 10, 50 and 100% of persimmon Juice. The change of fiber surface of the various silk fabrics were observed By SEM. The hand values of those fabric samples also were measured hand values by Kawabata Evaluation System and stiffness by Cantilaver method. By scouring, the silk organza got more flexibility and less cohesiveness between their fibers. And it can be a little more bulky by removing gum. Namely, silk organza lost its unique stiff and crisp handle. By the persimmon juice treatment, tannin component could be coated on the fiber surface. so that the stiffness of the fabrics were improved.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.28 no.2
• /
• pp.270-279
• /
• 2004

The purpose of this study is to make a basic resource in developing a design satisfying male consumers＇ fashion inclination by examining the features of the men＇s fashion style shown in the fashion collections. Collected were 1,291 photos relating to the suit style through the analysis on the men＇s fashion collections for 8 years(1995-2002). Representative men＇s fashion images are extracted from these photos, then figurative features were analyzed and typified according to image, and finally representative fashion styles were presented and its meaning was analyzed. Representative men＇s fashion images are Sophisticated, Casual, Elegant, Active, Natural, Classic, Romantic, Ethnic, Military, Marine, Colonial, and Avant-garde. With the subcategories such as detailed shape of jacket and trousers, the relationship of color between upper and lower clothes, type and organizing method of material quality, type and arranging method of pattern, and coordination, the extracted fashion images were analyzed the figurative features. After finding out the common and different features, four men＇s fashion styles were suggested. Formal style maintains the typical suit style and has the feature expressing the men＇s authority, tradition, and honor. It includes Sophisticated, Elegant. and Classic image. Casual St Sporty style has the feature that there is a change in the volume of suit by adding activity to the typical suit style. It includes Casual, Active, and Natural image. Uniformed style is that political and social environment such as war has an influence on the suit design. It includes Military, Marine, and Colonial image. Deformed style has the feature that it suggests new type instead of adhering to the typical suit design. It includes Ethnic, Romantic, and Avant-garde image.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.30 no.1 s.149
• /
• pp.157-166
• /
• 2006

The human body, which is composed of concave and convex curvatures, makes it difficult to transfer into 2D patterns directly from 3D data. In previous studies. Jeong, et al.(2004) suggested the block method was fester and easier when dealing with the triangular patches of male's upper dress form. Although the block method is useful to make a pattern, the information(area, length, etc.) from a 2D pattern would be different depending on the direction of the block method. As a result horizontal and diagonal block methods were suggested as optimal methods for 2D tight-fitting patterns. These block methods were closer to the original area of the 3D scan data than the vertical block method. The total area of the 2D pattern obtained by the horizontal and diagonal block methods showed little differences. In case of the horizontal and diagonal block methods, the total error of the 2D pattern area ranged from $0.01\%\~0.25\%$. In comparing the length of the 2D pattern with that of the 3D scan data, the obtained 2D pattern was $0.1\~0.2cm$ shorter than the 3D scan data, which was within the acceptable range of errors in making clothes. 3D space distribution images between the body surface and the experimental clothing were also measured and $3\%$ enlargement of the original pattern was verified as the adequate adjustment.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.30 no.8
• /
• pp.1275-1287
• /
• 2006

This was to confirm the Web-SFAS and street Fashion trend 2005. Korea women's street fashion in 2005 S/S was analyzed by using the Web-SFAS(Street Fashion Analysis System) that was developed and completed in the earlier research. Total 270 women who were sensitive to the fashion were surveyed around in 5 nationwide cities and 9 commercial zones. The analysis results of the questionnaire and image survey in 2005 S/S for each commercial zone is shown as follows: 1. The sequence of care with most interest in producing fashionable shape is in the order of clothes>accessory>hair style>make up>shoes, and it was found that the proper reason for visiting the commercial zone is to meet with friends than shopping. 2. Most preferred item for tops were shirts and T-shirts, while for bottoms were blue jeans of denim material in various colors and designs. The color had the clear winner in white color with the pink or yellow line of colors preferred in all commercial zones. The blue jeans and skirt items were the most dominant with the preference on the blue color. The color and image were diversely favored with light, natural, modern, elegance and warm images. 3. The semi-formal image was preferred in women's street fashion, 2005 S/S in Apgujeong-dong, Hapseong-dong, Myeong-dong, Hongik University area, Dongseong-ro, and the active comfort casual image was preferred by womens in Seo-myeon, Nampo-dong and Sangnam-dong. However the retro image were represented in Daehak-ro specially. The tendency of street fashion for women had the difference of their own trends for each commercial zone, rather then the regional differences for each city with the conspicuous preference of color for the items.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.30 no.8
• /
• pp.1301-1311
• /
• 2006

This study rearranged a concept of Friday wear considered as casual wear by searching social background through analysis of literature study and photo materials and classifying by characteristics of casual wear. It investigated growing changes of casual wear and the progress of changes casual brands through a market survey based on departments in Seoul. And then, it examined characteristics of a design and the critical point of easy casual selecting GIORDANO, TBJ and NII of three easy casual brands. Conclusions of the study are as follows: Firstly, present casual wear showed subdivision of casual wear as abundant grouping vocabularies appeared contrary to the past. Secondly, easy casual wear has continuously increased by results of investigating departments in Seoul on the progress of changing easy casual wear brand including the concept of Friday wear. Thirdly, if a main target sets the early 20s, women workers in their 20's and 30's are likely to be reluctant to wear it according to results of investigating designs and characteristics based on GIORDANO, TBJ and NII of existing three easy casual brands through the market survey. Also, it was verified that most of these brands have no a luxurious image because they adhere to middle-low price. Fourthly, it improved problems of easy casual through developing designs of easy casual wear. Easy casual wear supplementing weak these points of easy casual wear was evaluated as suitable clothes for workers to wear in on and off their own time in Friday.