• Title/Summary/Keyword: Korean clothes

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A study on the Scythian costume (스키타이계(係) 복식(服飾)에 대(對)한 연구(硏究))

  • Kim, Moon-Ja
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.11 no.4
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    • pp.204-220
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    • 2007
  • The background of Korean Ethnical Costume was originated from those northern mounted nomadic groups, which was Scythe style Costume Culture. Through the antique records and paintings of tombs bequests hereby describe the forms of Scythian Cotume (1) Headgear : There was Conical Cap(or Pointed Cap), Feathered Cap, and Crown. (2) Clothes : Both Men and Women wore Jacket as upper garment with leftsided collars, narrow sleeves to the length of the hip line. As lower garment, they wore the tight Trousers and Kungo(:窮袴)that was attached with gusset. (3) Belts and Boots : On the upper garment bound the leather Belts that was hanged a hook that was shaped of animal form at the end. Scythian Buckles was divided into six groups, animal-shaped, animal's head shaped, animal fight-shaped, rectangle-shaped, rectangle openwork-shaped, genre scene shaped Buckle. To the Boots, they wore leather boots. (4) Ornaments : Ornaments divided into Dress Trimming(:Gold plaques), Earrings, Necklaces(;Torques), Bracelets, Rings. Scythian Gold Plaques were divided into several types according to the shape, animal style(curved beast shape, profile shape, head reversed over its back shape), round shape, quadrilateral form, star shape, flower shape, crescent shape, bundle shape, human appearance. Earrings consisted of a plain ring and pendant ring was a middle ornament hung from it to a pendants which hung was made of heart shaped leaves of the tree, beads-linked. Scythian Torques were divided into several types according to the shape, Torque with Terminal style, Spiral style, Layers style, Crescent-shaped pectoral style, Crown style. Scythian Bracelet were divided into 4 styles according to the shape, Bracelets with ends shaped like beasts style, Spiral style, Layers style, Crown with openwork style. Rings were rhomb-shaped and animal shaped styleRings (5) Animal motifs used in Scythian ornaments appears that in some cases the work was intended to be purely ornamental, while many times the motifs had symbolic meaning (such as the successful dominance of the aggressor over the victim portrayed in the attack scenes). Magical use of symbols may have been inten-ded to guarantee the power of the aggressor.

A Study on 'Eco-Look' expressed in contemporary fashion (현대패션에 표현된 에콜로지에 관한 연구)

  • 정연자
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.30
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    • pp.227-237
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    • 1996
  • The purpose of this study is to investigate the main characteristics of the environmentalism expressed in contemporary fashion. i.e. 'eco-look'. They can be categorized into naturalism symbolism primitiveness and concern about recycling. First naturalistic tendency can be found in through the method of some contemporary eco-looks which are using natural colors harmonisation of the colors in similarity and in controst and expressing in a realistic manner some natural entities or use some ornaments representing them. Such trends easily let people to feel the clothes unified with the nature and human beings. Secondly some contemporary eco-looks express environmentalistic ideas for examples the idea for protection of the nature or the idea against pollution of the earth and destruction of nature in a symbolistic way. Thirdly primitiveness is one of the most characteristic feature in contemporary eco-looks. It can be found in contemporary eco-looks, In can be found in some eco-looks using primitive or original images of Africa and underdeveloped countries. it reflects the human desire to go back to the nature or to the unity with the nature, Finally recycled materials are commonly used in eco-look. Patchwork and handmade knits are popular methods for this mode. They implicates the idea of pragmatism and simplicity in fashion. One Conclusion of the paper on eco-look: fashion design which can be itself an import-ant environment of human beings Secondly some contemporary eco-looks ex-press environmentalistic ideas for examples the idea for protection of the nature or the idea against pollution of the earth and destruction of nature in a symbolistic way. Thirdly primitiveness is one of the most characteristic feature in contemporary eco-looks. It can be found in some eco-looks using primitive or original images of Africa and underdeveloped countries. it reflects the human desire to go back to the nature or to the unity with the nature. Finally recycled materials are commonly used In eco-look Patchwork and handmade knits are popular methods for this mode. They implicates the idea of pragmatism and simplicity in fashion. One Conclusion of the paper on eco-look ; fashion design which can be itself an import-ant environment of human beings has become a very efficient and significant tool to express the idea of ecology.

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A Study on the Feminism in Contemporary Fashion Design (현대패션에 표현된 페미니즘에 관한 연구)

  • 금기숙
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.30
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    • pp.211-225
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    • 1996
  • In this paper we discuss the corelation be-tween feminism and fashion and examine its influnce on mordern fashion. And we also try to infer what the fashion design will be like in the future by understanding the value of modern fashion from a new viewpoint. The Early Feminism which advocated the similarity between man and women held the thought that women could be equal to men only when they behaved in the same way as men did, In 1970s when the pendulum of the Early Feminism movement reached its highest point a manish look began to flourish. The manish look introduced the items once employed only for men such as trench costs tidy tailored suits shirts and ties to women clothes. It has taken root deeply in women's life and is still employed in various ways by many designers. From the late 1970s the pendulum of feminism movement began to swing toward the Essentialist Feminism which emphasized the differences between men and women. It focused not on the negative image of women seen from male-oriented viewpoints but on their positive image and stressed women's sexual characteristic to make distinction between two genders. in fashion the Essentialist Feminism played a role in bringing about a sexy look which stressed the erotic silhouette of woman's body. The latest feminism is the socio-cultural one. It sees the distinction between men and women as sexual discrimination and introduces the androgynous human which carries the characteristic of two sexes. it leads to ambiguity of sex roles and at the same time serves to make androgynous social atmosphere by admitting the coexistence of two genders. The androgynous idea in fashion is expressed as a new trend which crosses men and women's own beauty while keeping their own identity intact. As we have briefly reviewed feminism in fashion has been presented in various ways with regard to expressing the nature of men and women. And it has continuously indicated the ultimate message of the salvation of mankind such as the respect for humanity and recovery of humanism.

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Type and Characteristics of fabrics excavated from Chonmachong of Shilla Era - focused on the fabrics which are in the Kyongju Museum′s collection - (신라시대 천마총 출토 직물의 유형과 특성 -현 경주박물관 소장직물을 중심으로-)

  • 권영숙;조현혹;장현주;김종오
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.50 no.7
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    • pp.129-139
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    • 2000
  • The Chonmachong (Tumulus No. 155 in Whangnam-dong, Kyungju, Korea), which was unearthed in 1973, is an ancient tomb built in the Shilla Era between the 5th∼6th centuries by the method of Juk-suk-mok-gwak. With the excavation of this tomb more than 11,500 articles of luxurious and splendid relics including gold and silver ornaments, weaponry and horse gears were obtained. Among the excavated articles, the saddle flap with a drawing of flying horse on it is the first relic of its kind from the Shilla Era. and 'Chonma'(a flying horse), the name of the tomb. was named after this drawing. The saddle flap is highly valuable in that it provides the idea of how goad the people of Shilla were at drawing. Although a lot of researches have been released about the relics from the Chonmachong, this study is to focus on the fabrics from the excavation, all of which are in the Kyongiu Museum's collection. The findings of this study are as follows : 1 The subject of this study is mainly on the fabrics used in horse gears, the pieces of cloth that were used to spread on a saddle or to underlay beneath a saddle. As the Shilla Dynasty tried to restrict excessive ornamentation on horses and it is assumed that the fabrics used are different. according to the social status. 2. The subject articles are four plain fabrics, three fabrics of combined -construction and one braid, the warp-faced compound woven silks of combined-construction was found for the first tinge in Korea, and is the typical quality sick with patterns woven with dyed threads in different colors. 3. It is ascertained by the Chonmachong excavation that polychrome woven silk was used not only for the clothes of the upper classes but also for the ornaments of their horses in the Era of the Three Kingdoms.

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A Study on the Fit Preference Tendency for Ready-to-wear by the Age and Obesity Level of Adult Women (성인 여성의 연령 비만도에 따른 기성복 맞음새 선호 경향 조사)

  • Seok, Hye-Jung;Kim, In-Suk
    • Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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    • v.41 no.9
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    • pp.17-29
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    • 2003
  • The objective of this study is to investigate the fit preference tendency for ready-to-wears(jackets, skirts, and slacks) of adult women and to find out the respective differences by the age range and the obesity level. The study method was the questionnaire survey with the subjects of 699 women of 20 up to 59 years of age. The questionnaire is composed of fit preference tendency, physical measurements, age, and occupation. For the data analysis, SPSS 90. program was used, and descriptive statistics, Crosstabs, ANOVA, Duncan's test, and t-test were conducted. The findings are as follows. 1. Regarding the fit preferred for each part of jackets, skirts, and slacks, among ready-to-wears, the 'thing with some extra width' in every part was most favored, followed by the 'thing fitting perfectly'. 2. The differences were found in the fit preference tendency by the age of adult women. The fit preference tendency was higher among those in their 20's than among those of the other age range, and those in their 30's and 40's preferred the clothes with less extra width in comparison with those in their 50's. 3. The differences were also found in the fit preference tendency by the obesity level of adult women. The fit preference tendency was high in the order of the emaciation, normalcy, and obesity types. 4. The fit preference tendency was found to be more affected by the obesity level than by the age. The fit preference tendency by the obesity level of each age range showed the differences in all of the age range. However, the normal type did not show the preference difference among the age ranges, in the fit preference tendency by the age range of each obesity level. Clothing manufacturing firms should understand the characteristics of consumers, such as their age, body type, extra width preferred, to provide the consumers of target market with suitable leeway, and they should design the clothing products which meet up these needs in style and silhouette.

Design of Electro-Thread Embroidery UHF RFID Tag Antennas with Character Shapes (글자 모양의 자수형 도전사 UHF RFID 태그 안테나 디자인)

  • Choi, Jae-Han;Chung, You-Chung
    • The Journal of Korean Institute of Electromagnetic Engineering and Science
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    • v.20 no.10
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    • pp.1114-1120
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    • 2009
  • The conductivity of various electro-threads is analyzed, and the washable electro-thread embroidery UHF RFID tag antennas using the character shape without T-matching structure are designed by adding a T-matching structure. The RFID tag antenna using the electro-thread is easy to be embedded on a cloth as a wearable antenna because it is flexible and different from general copper inlay shape and tape type tag. The embroidery tag antennas are designed with the English alphabet 'F' and the Korea alphabet 'ㄹ' character. Those are easy to be applied to general clothes. The parameters of antennas are optimized and fabricated. The characteristics and the reading range patterns of the tag antennas are measured. The reading ranges of wet tags(tap water, sea water and soapy water) are tested and compared.

Embroidery 'ㅂ' Character Type UHF RFID Tag Antenna Design ('ㅂ'자 자수형 도전사 UHF RFID 태그 안테나)

  • Chung, You-Chung;Kim, Yeon-Ho;Lee, Kyoung-Hwan
    • The Journal of Korean Institute of Electromagnetic Engineering and Science
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    • v.20 no.10
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    • pp.1071-1076
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    • 2009
  • A wearable embroidery 'ㅂ' character shape UHF RFID tag antenna has been designed using conductive electro-thread. After testing characteristics of various electro-threads, the embroidery tag, with a T-matching structure, has been designed on a cloth with 200D(denier) electro-thread which performs electrically better. The embroidery tag on a piece of fabric or clothes made with the flexible electro-thread is a wearable tag and possible to be recognized by an RFID system. The conductivity of different deniers of electro-threads has been measured. The measured conductivity has been used for simulation and fabrication to have accurate simulation results. To verify the characteristics of the tag antenna, the return loss and reading range of the fabricated embroidery electro-thread UHF RFID tag antenna have been tested. The reading range is approximately 1.52 m.

A Study on T-shirt Patterns as Communication and Its Design Application (티셔츠 문양의 커뮤니케이션 기능 및 이를 응용한 디자인 연구)

  • Kwak Seung-Hee;Choy Hyon-Sook
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.56 no.7 s.106
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    • pp.1-16
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    • 2006
  • Clothing not only offers protection for the body and an aesthetic function but also accomplishes a communication role by delivering a message. And symbolic meanings of clothes deliver important information about the wearer. The T-shirt is one of the most popular items of clothing because of its simplicity and utility, In particular, T-shirt patterns, being simple forms, accomplish non-verbal communication directly by making possible the expression of an idea and showing the personality of the wearer. For these reasons, the T-shirt is becoming established as an Important item of clothing that shows one's personality and individuality in modern society. One purpose of this study is to confirm the communication function of fashion and understand that fashion plays an important symbolic role as a means of communication. Another purpose is to see how T-shirt patterns relate to human communication, through studying of widely accepted T-shirt in modern society. The final purpose is to develop a T-shirt design application based on this study and show how T-skirts contribute to expressing one's individuality and deliver ideas about society through clothing. The results of this study are as follows: 1. T-shirt patterns play a part in non-verbal communication. 2. T-shirt patterns have been variously expressed through conditions of society, culture and types of patterns, and formation techniques. 3. The communication function of T-shirt patterns have been classified to 5 categories; publicity, persuasion, solidarity, art, and fashion. 4 T-shirt design patterns were developed and produced. 5. T-shirt patterns could be useful ways to express individuality of oneself today.

A study on the Patterns of ART NOUVEAU Silhouette by Draping Design (입체재단법에 의한 ART NOUVEAU 의상 SILHOUETTE의 PATTERN 연구)

  • 정흥숙
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.50
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    • pp.5-22
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    • 2000
  • The study on the past costume should be done first for the creation of new style of fashion. That is one of the reasons why we have to annalize characteristic style in each period. Before the latter of nineteenth century one must have made the costume by draping design. Because the complicated clothes can be expressed by draping deign think that the subject draping design is even more important than other subject. But there haven't been the studies that analyzed the pattern of Art Nouveau style by draping design in Korea. Art Nouveau style is a certain one that was relatively more changeable than the ones of other periods. The purpose of this study is the analysis about the patterns of hourglass and S-curve style which represented the Art Nouveau style. The results of the study summarized as follows. 1. Bodice pattern : In the front Hourglass silhouette has the princess line for fitting bodice while S-curve silhouette has the wide midriff due to the blousing. There is the yoke in S-curve one. In the pattern of back bodice we can't see the much differences but Hourglass silhouette is used the princess line like the front one while S-curve is made use of the waist darts for fitting back. 2. Sleeve pattern : Hourglass silhouette is made of two pieces the upper part and lower part besides S-curve is consisted of one pieces. The former has the big upper part in order to the emphasis of the shoulder and the tight lower part. The latter is the tight sleeve that similar to the basic sleeve pattern at present. 3. Skirt pattern: There is partially a gored line in the front skirt in Hourglass silhouette however S-curve silhouette is consisted of the six pieces gored skirt. At this part we can also see the fact that s-curve is more complicated than Hourglass silhouette. 4. Others: Wecan find out the differences between Hourglass and S-curve pattern easily at the parts of the collar flounce wing and so on. Summing up, the patterns of S-curve style are more expanded than those of Hourgalss style for the most part.

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A Study on the Blended Tabby of the Chosen Dynasty (조선시대 교직물 연구)

  • 장현주
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.52 no.5
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    • pp.145-154
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    • 2002
  • 1. The blended tabby whose warp and weft each employs a different kind of thread had been weaved since the era of the Three Kingdoms in this nation and since the period of Han in China. Especially in the 15th century. very finely weaved fabrics as the specialty of Chosun were exported to China. In the 16th century. blended tabby weaved with silk and cotton were often used for clothes as cotton was produced around the nation. And in the 17th century. blended tabby employing high quality Chinese raw silk other than existing ones were weaved. 2. It has been found in literature review that Honpo, one of Chosun's blended tabby. was manufactured mainly in Hamkyung, Cholla and Kyungsang provinces and mostly distributed through markets of Chungchong and Cholla provinces. 3. Out of the total 19 fabric pieces. 13 employed silk thread as the warp and cotton thread as the weft. Compared with the weft. in general. the warp is given more tension when weaved and more friction by spindles, being more likely to be twisted than the weft. In addition to starching, a stronger thread is requested as the warp. It is natural that in the Chosun period, silk thread more stronger than cotton thread was used as the warp to make more durable fabrics. For the weft requiring lots of threads when weaved. cotton thread was mainly used in the 17th century because the thread could be easily obtained at that time. 4. So far the study has made an empirical review of Chosun's blended tabby. especially those of the 15th∼17th century, in terms of their production and distribution. Findings from the study have some limit because they have been made focusing on the 15th∼17th century not the whole period of Chosun. Therefore it is needed to complement those findings through further studies.