• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.61 no.7
• /
• pp.67-79
• /
• 2011

This study is to design a ball-jointed doll costume with historical research in clay female doll's costume from Hwangsung-dong tomb of the Silla Dynasty[新羅] in 7C. This clay female doll's costume was characterized by slim silhouette, long sleeves, no neckline, side slit, high waistline, and bun on the back neck of representative of the early era. According to literature of 7-8C and textile relics, it is presumed that she wore short Jeogori[短衣, Dan-eui] with long sleeves and two layered skirt, and Dan-ryeong(團領) could be added as attachment that is reflective of the time era. For making design costume, Ra[羅, silk gauze] was used for long Dan-ryeong, plain silk and brocade[錦, Geum] for Dan-eui and skirt as a special textile of this period. Waist dart and small snap were added to the costume of ball-jointed doll because of hardness and curvy shape of doll's body, without contradicting traditional value. For better use of this study and cost reduction purposes, development of production system for traditional doll costumes should be considered.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.19 no.1
• /
• pp.19-30
• /
• 2011

The purpose of this study is to analyze the tendency of Korean traditional textile studies to review the studies critically and to suggest the new directions. To do this, this study included 164 articles of Korean traditional textile studies published in five Korean major journals from the first issue to the 2009. The identified 164 articles were categorized and analyzed by five areas : study subject, study content, study method, the tendency through times and journals publishing Korea traditional textile articles. The results were as follows. First, in the study subject, the ratio of traditional motifs study was the highest in any other study subject and an actual textile pattern study and society culture historic study were also favored. And, the ratio of foreign textile study was the lowest in any other study subject. Second, in the fiber type of study content, the ratio of silk fiber was the highest in any other fiber type. Hemp, ramie and cotton fiber were followed by silk fiber. Also, the ratio of wool fiber was lowest in any other fiber type. In the weaving type, ratio of plain weave was the highest in any other weaving type. In the times of study, the ratio of the Joseon Dynasty period was the highest in any other times of study. Third, in the study method, the ratio of an actual proof study method was higher than that of literature study method. In the tendency of times, there were society culture historic studies from the time publishing the first edition in each journal, the ratio of an actual textile pattern study, traditional motif study and preservation science study has increased since the 2000. Fourth, in the characteristics of journals, Journal of Korean Society of Costume has published the most articles in any other journal publishing Korea traditional textile study.

• The Korean Fashion and Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.22 no.5
• /
• pp.561-569
• /
• 2020

In this study, the dyeing of Chrysanthemum indicum Linne alone and the combined dyeing of Chrysanthemum indicum Linne and onion shell were first performed to compare dyeing properties. A combination extract of Chrysanthemum indicum Linne and onion shell can be expected to improve coloration. A Hanbok design for children used a natural dyeing fashion dyeing method to make the Chrysanthemum pattern. Chrysanthemum indicum Linne is a type of wild chrysanthemum with various medicinal effects for headache and stress relief, skin diseases, insomnia and depression. Widely used onion shells have medicinal properties that help prevent and treat various adult diseases. The colors of silk dyed exclusively by Chrysanthemum indicum Linne, and the colors of silk dyed by Chrysanthemum indicum Linne and onion shell extract are yellow; in addition, silk dyed by Chrysanthemum indicum Linne and onion shell extracts were almost all unchanged. Four hanboks, which are comfortable for children to wear and use, were produced using Chrysanthemum indicum Linne and onion shell extracts. If children wear hanbok fashion products with auspicious patterns, they can provide a chance to simultaneously experience the traditional symbolism of Korean patterns and culture. In addition, it is expected to develop pride in traditional dress culture.

• International Journal of Industrial Entomology and Biomaterials
• /
• v.11 no.1
• /
• pp.13-19
• /
• 2005

Biotechnological researches in Central Asian Research Institute of Sericulture were developed since 1981 when laboratory of artificial diets for mulberry silk­worm was created. The researches were directed not only to creation of accessible artificial diets (AD) for off-season mass rearing of economical beneficial insect and for industrialization of sericulture but also to obtaining of easy reproducible source of animal proteins, carbohydrates, lipids, enzymes, enzymes inhibitors and other metabolites - bioresource for manufacture of oriental medicine preparations. Space experiments with silkworms became possible with use of AD. These experiments used mulberry silkworm as high effective board test organism with outstanding developmental, reproductive and transgenic properties having impor­tant significance in future of cosmonautics. Introduction to practice of bioprotective and ecologically pure method of drying and sterilizing of green cocoons and by-products of silk manufacture allows to increase efficiency of cocoons reeling technology as well as to preserve nativity of biological active substances in mulberry silkworm pupae that is unachievable by traditional methods of raw material processing. New spheres of application of two important silk proteins - fibroin and sericin in medicine, cosmetics, for bio- and nanotechnology are opening with use of biotechnological approaches. At present the achievements and experience of R & D in these fields are used in creation of modern pests biocontrol agents. Schemes of efficient processing of cocoon raw material, by-products and wastes of sericulture and cocoon processing are devel- Institute of Physiology and Biophysics, Uzbek Academy of Sciences, I, Niyazov street, 700095, Tashkent, Uzbekistan. oped for obtaining of traditional and new consumer products.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.50
• /
• pp.161-182
• /
• 2000

The results of this study were as follows: The quit has been used for warmth supporting materials protection religious uses decoration and giving stability of shapes. Quilt is developed from monk's robe of lags and the word 'nubi' is originated form 'nabeui' in both Korean and Japan. Korean quilt was used mainly for warmth: Japanese one was used for warmth and supporting materials. The techniques used for traditional Korean quit were parallel vertical hand stitches. On the other hand Japanese traditional quilt uses various motifs of sashiko which is similar to embroidery and named by region. Korean quilt can be divided into three types by the stitch intervals: Fin quit(Jan unbi) Medium quilt(Jung nubi) and Wide quilt(Demun nubi). Japanese quilt has been developed in east-north region and can be grouped into sashiko kogin and hishizashi by motifs of quit. Korean quilt costumes are stuffed with cotton between the outer fabrics and linings and stitched vertically on the fabrics Main fabrics used were silk and cotton. Japanese quilt costume uses cotton yarns for stitching on flax or cotton fabrics used were silk and cotton. fabrics and main uses of the quilot costumes were sorking clothes of working classes. Both Korean and Japanese quilt costumes contain of family's health happiness and longevity. In summary Korean quilts use two layers of fabrics and stuff them with cotton and stitch parallel vertical i\lines to provide warmth Japanese quilt are sashiko which is stitches of strand in various shapes using cotton yarns. differ by region and are made for warmth and supporting materials.

• Natural Product Sciences
• /
• v.1 no.1
• /
• pp.66-69
• /
• 1995

Traditional Antheraea pernyi silkworm cocoon is tawny color. The white Antheraea pernyi silkworm cocoons studied here by IR and UV are new breeds of recent breeding. We discovered that the main body of the first grade structure of silk protein in the new white is as same as the one in the traditional tawny Antheraea pernyi silkworm cocoon, yet there are small quantities of cross-linked polymer of gentisic acid and silk protein in the white silkworm cocoons. In spite of the least surviving quantity of the polymer, the white silkworm cocoons are most white and its white color is similar to white Bombyx mori silkworm cocoon.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.21 no.6
• /
• pp.844-859
• /
• 2013

This study investigated the characteristics and changes of cotton and silk textile production in Honam district, especially in Gurye, Jella Province from the 1930s to the 1980s. To do this, research method in this study was both literature and fieldwork research and results were as follows. First, in terms of cotton fiber cultivation of Gurye, Chinese Cotton(在來綿) has been substituted for America Cotton(陸地綿) and additionally, Yellow Cotton (黃綿) has been cultivated in the 1930s. Also, in terms of silk fiber cultivation of Gurye, Joseon Silkworm has been substituted for Japanese Silkworm by inflowing the Japanese mulberry tree. Second, in terms of spinning method, cotton spinning has been conducted at every house by an individual tool from the 1930s to the 1950s and has been gradually changed to mechanization by market shop equipped with mechanized cotton gin and cotton whipping tool. However, there have been no changes in silk spinning method from the 1930s to the 1980s. Third, loom type has been changed from the traditional Korean back-strap loom to the treadle loom between the 1930s and the 1940s. Fourth, dyeing was conducted by chemical dyestuff after weaving. The circulation of textile was done through the joint market by Japan in the 1930s~1950s and has changed to the market sales by producers since the 1950s. Fifth, since the 1970s, the outputs of cotton and silk textile of Gurye have been reduced. This was connected with the westernization and the inflow of the synthetic fiber and cloth in cotton and was related to the changes of the nation policy and silk fiber inflow from the china to the Korean farm villages.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.59 no.8
• /
• pp.132-151
• /
• 2009

All of 132 kinds of fabrics are used in excavated costume from the Dongrae Jung's Tomb. Classified by its materials, it is divided into small groups as follows: 58 pieces of silk tabby 43.9%, 2 of filament silk tabby 1.5%, 14 of thin filament silk tabby 10.6%, 19 of spun yarn silk 14.4%, 4 of twill without a pattern 3.0%, 8 of patterned silk tabby 6.1%, 23 of satin damask 17.4%, 1 of damask with supplementary gold thread 0.8%, 2 of mixture fabric with silk and cotton 1.5%, and 1 of ramie fabric 0.8%. Classified by ways of weaving: 96 pieces of plain weave 73%, 23 of satin weave 17%, 8 of patterned silk tabby consisting of plain weave material and twill weave pattern-6%, 4 of twill weave 3%, and 1 of compound weave 1 %. In point of patterns, the most often used ones are plant patterns such as lotus patterns, peony patterns, plum blossom patterns, flowers representing seasons patterns, and small flower patterns. For animal patterns, it has phoenix patterns designed together with flowers representing seasons patterns. And for natural scenery patterns, it shows cloud patterns with treasures patterns together. For object patterns, it also shows treasures patterns mixed with cloud or lotus together. For geometrical patterns, it has rhomboid patterns and 卍 character patterns; some show only rhomboid patterns and others show material patterns of 卍 character patterns blended together with fruit, lotus, etc.

• International Journal of Industrial Entomology and Biomaterials
• /
• v.27 no.2
• /
• pp.265-270
• /
• 2013

Dialysis is the rate-limiting step in the preparation of aqueous silk fibroin (SF) solution. However, the traditional practice of dialyzing SF solution for at least 48 h to remove LiBr is not based on empirical evidence. The aim of the present study was to systematically measure LiBr content in SF solutions dialyzed for varying lengths of time and assess the potential toxicity of residual lithium ions in cells. Complete removal of lithium ions was not achieved even after 72 h of dialysis, with a residual lithium ion content in the solution of 22.85 mg/l. SF films prepared from solutions dialyzed for 8 and 24 h had predominantly random coil or b-sheet structures, respectively. The residual lithium had little cytotoxicity in NIH3T3 fibroblast cells, but viability was compromised in cells grown on SF film prepared from solution dialyzed for 24 h.

• International Journal of Industrial Entomology and Biomaterials
• /
• v.7 no.1
• /
• pp.1-4
• /
• 2003

Sericulture is a traditional agro-industry, which involves mulberry cultivation and silkworm rearing, has made great contributes to the human civilization. With the development of national economy and modem technology, mulberry and silkworm are being used to develop products with functionality besides the traditional cocoon production in China. In this paper, we brief the current developing situation of sericultural byproducts with functionality in the following aspects. (1) Functional products from silkworm larvae: silkworm powder, white muscardine silkworm, isolation and purification of anti-bacterial proteins from the larvae and production of medically valuable substances by Bombyx mori nuclear polyhedrosis virus (BmNPV) vector. (2) Utilization of silkworm feces: for pillow and for isolation of chlorophyll etc. (3) Production of valuable Chinese traditional medicine like Cordyceps sinensis with pupae, functional utilization of pupa protein and chitin. (4) Silk as additives to cosmetics, silk food and medical materials. (5) Functional utilization of mulberry: cultivation of edible fungus on mulberry shoots as medium, mulberry fruit drinks, mulberry tea, etc. The prospect of sericultural byproduct industry in China is also discussed.