• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.4
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• pp.1-13
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to examine the types of and figurative characteristics of in women's embroidered handicrafts of Korea. It also aims to revive Korean traditional beauty, to examine the applicability of Korean traditional design that has both modern beauty and practicality, and to develop Korean women's embroidered handicrafts. The types of women's embroidered of Korea include Jumoni (pouches), Bojagi (wrapping cloths), and other accessories made by sewing. Jumoni consisting of 55.51% of them was the most frequently used handicraft followed by Bojagi (8.66%), and other accessories (35.83%). In terms of the patterns used, animal pattern and plant pattern were used the most frequently. In addition, complex patterns using two or three patterns together(70.49) were more frequent than singular patterns (29.53%). Pictorial type of pattern arrangement (58.24%) was used the most frequently and dense type (39.76%) and sparse type (2.00%) were followed. In terms of the materials on which embroidery was used, Dahn (85.82%) was used the most frequently followed by wool (5.67%), cotton (4.26%), silk (3.55%), and Sa (0.70%). Various techniques of stitches were used such as outline stitch (40.56%), satin and running stitch (29.32%), French nut stitch (28.11%), long and short stitch (21.28%), double leaf stitch (20.88%), and so on. Among them, satin stitch (63.05%) was the most popular type of stitch techniques. Strings (23.56%), maedeup (Korean traditional knots, 8.62%), or tassels (9.77%) were also attached for the purpose of both practicality and of decoration. There were some cases that added cloissone or red-pepper shaped decorations.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.41 no.3
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• pp.196-200
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• 1999

The flat-ways spinned cocoon was prepared from the silkworm using flat and circular type cocooning frame. The spinning rate of the silkworm was 76.9% compared to the normal mounted silkworm. The arrangement of cocoon baves of the flat-ways spinned cocoon was more linear than the normal cocoon which is curved. To maintain the size-stability of the flat-ways spinned cocoon, degumming process was treated with enzymes. These flat-ways spinned cocoons could be used as padding materials for the thermal insulations and decoration uses for the traditional fan which the silkworms are mounted directly on the fan frame.

• Natural Product Sciences
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• v.25 no.2
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• pp.143-149
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• 2019

Eucommiae Cortex (EC), bark of Eucommia ulmoides, has been known as a traditional medicine to regulate hypertension and immune system. Because silk of gum in the EC blocks the release of active ingredients, EC generally has been utilized after processing with carbonization or salt-water to breakdown it. This study aimed to investigate the differences of non-processed EC and processed EC on antioxidant and anticancer properties. Antioxidant capacity was assessed by measuring the content of total polyphenols, reducing power, and ABTS radical scavenging effect. And anticancer effects were examined by evaluating the viability of pancreatic cancer cells and wound healing ability. The results demonstrated that processed EC contained more content of polyphenols and exhibited more potent reducing power and radical scavenging effect than non-processed EC. In addition, processed EC more efficiently inhibited proliferation and migration of pancreatic cancer cells. These results suggest that processing of medicinal plants can improve the biological properties such as antioxidant or anticancer activity, which may lead to the development of herbal medicine treatment technology.

• International Journal of Industrial Entomology and Biomaterials
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• v.44 no.2
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• pp.65-71
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• 2022

The wild silkmoth Antheraea yamamai Guérin-Méneville, 1861 (Lepidoptera: Saturniidae) is an important producer of silk that is superior to the silk produced by traditional domesticated silkworm. In this study, we sequenced the complete mitochondrial genome (mitogenome) of An. yamamai collected from Jeju Island, which is the southernmost island approximately 100 km offshore southward from the Korean Peninsula. Determining this sequence will be necessary for tracing the biogeographic history of the species and developing molecular markers for identifying the origin of commercial products. Comparison of the sequence divergence among two available and the current mitogenomes revealed a low but substantial number of substitutions, totaling 23 nucleotides in the whole genome. CytB and ND5 showed the highest variability with five and four variations, respectively, suggesting that these regions will be prior regions to target for subsequent biogeographic and diagnosis study. Phylogenetic reconstruction based on all available sequences of Saturniidae showed that An. yamamai is a sister to the congeneric species An. pernyi, corroborating that Antheraea is a highly supported monophyletic group. The tribe Saturniini was clearly non-monophyletic and interrupted by Attacini and Bunaeini.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.21 no.6
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• pp.860-876
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• 2013

The pattern cases for Korean traditional socks are named "beoseonbongip" which means a pouch to keep patterns for making "beoseon". "Beoseon" is Korean traditional socks. This study is to identify characteristics of the pattern cases and to develop cultural products based on the unique characteristics of the pattern cases. One hundred fifty one photos of "beosonbongip" were collected and quantitatively and qualitatively analyzed. Seventy percent of them were made between Joseon Dynasty and 1960s. As a result, most of the collected pattern cases are rectangular and square shapes, red color, and silk fabrics, and sizes of them are from 9cm to 15cm. A few pattern cases with different sizes and colors were also observed. Most pattern cases were made by fixing two among four triangle pieces which made by folding four tips of a rectangular or square cloth and then puting a not or a loop on the remaining triangle pieces in order to open and close the pattern cases. In a small number of the pattern cases, three of the four pieces were fixed and a button, a bead, a broach, or two nots or two loops were put on the other piece for opening and closing. Products such as apparels, bags, pouches, frames, and key holders were made using "beoseonbongip" form and construction method. This shows that "beoseonbongip" is a useful motive for creative product development.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.37 no.5
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• pp.691-703
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• 2013

The costume culture of ladies in late Goryeo is an important and rare source for cultural fashion souvenir design. This study investigates the historical costume design sources of late Goryeo to suggest high quality traditional and practical ornament souvenir designs for female dolls as well as examples of coordination with doll costumes. The costume culture of late Goryeo contained golden Buddhism and a revival of $12^{th}$ century Goryeo costume characteristic after the period of Mongolian influences from the Yuan. The main sources for doll ornament designs are $14^{th}$ century Buddhist paintings, a few ornament relics of Goryeo, ancient literature, and portraits of ladies in the $14^{th}$ century that originated from five doll's traditional ornaments (lotus hairpin, cloud-shaped hairpin, Buddhist flower hair ornament, vase-shaped Binyeo, and bell of animalhuman face) and three wig designs (wigs from Buddhist paintings and portraits, and hairpiece) with bleached gilding silver, silk, various gemstones and synthetic hair. These doll ornament and wig designs imply the symbol of Buddhism, exorcism, and costume culture of $14^{th}$ century Goryeo ladies that can be matched with two doll gowns, half-sleeved jacket, skirt, two Jogoris, apron, under trousers as formal, semi-formal, and town-wear according to the T.P.O of late Goryeo; in addition, five ornaments can be used as owner's ornaments. The partial changing colors and materials due to the characteristics of doll ornament goods as well as better communication between researcher and constructor remain to be improved.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.4 no.3
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• pp.9-15
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• 2002

Compared with synthetic dyes, natural dyes have inferior colorfastness as a result of the exposure of the material to any environment that may be encountered during the processing, testing, storage, display or use of the dyed materials. Especially, colors on fabrics fade excessively after washing. Therefore, it is problem to infer the historic textiles with natural-dyed fabrics. The object of this study is to analyse the factors affected to colorfastness and color change during washing. In experimental, fifteen natural dyes were dyed by the Korean traditional dyeing methods onto natural fiber fabrics: cotton, silk, ramie, and flex. Total 49 dyed fabrics in combination with dyes and fibers were used for the specimen. The Launder-Ometer was used for evaluating the effects of exposure to repetitive washing from 1 to 20 washing cycles (KS K 0430). Color difference(ΔE) in the CIEL＊A＊B＊ color-order system were determined by spectrophotometer at 100 bserver. Washing caused significant changes in the color of natural-dyed fabrics. The degree and nature of color changes on the fabrics were dependent on the combination of fiber and the dye type used. The groups of violet(Lithospermum erythrorhizon Sieb.et Zucc) and black color(Ailanthus altissima Swingle, Phus trichocarpa Miq) yielded excellent colorfastness to repetitive washing. The group of indigo blue color(Polygonum tinctorium Lour.) was also very resistant to color change in washing except silk. Whereas the dye groups of Red, Yellow, Orange, Brown colors indicated greatest changes in color, particularly Carthamus tinctorius L.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.45-53
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• 2004

Natural dyes have poor colorfastness as a result of the exposure of the dyed fabric to sunlight encountered during the display or wearing. As colors on fabrics fade excessively under sunlight, it is a problem to infer and restore the historic textiles with natural-dyed fabrics to original colors. The object of this study is to analyse the factors affected to color change under light. In experimental, fifteen natural dyes were dyed by the Korean traditional dyeing methods onto natural fiber fabrics: cotton, silk, ramie, and flex. Total 49 dyed fabrics in combination with dyes and fibers were used for the specimen. The Weather-O-meter was used for evaluating the effects of exposure to light for 2.5 to 450 hours. The process of color changes in the CIEL *A*B* color-order system to the exposure time were determined by spectrophotometer at 10$^{\circ}$ observer. Sunlight exposure caused significant changes in the color of natural-dyed fabrics. The degree and nature of color changes on the fabrics were dependent on the combination of fiber and the type of dye used. The groups of violet(Lithospermum erythrorhizon Sieb.et Zucc.) and black color(Ailanthus altissima Swingle, Phus trichocarpa Miq) yielded excellent colorfastness to light. The group of indigo blue color(Polygonum tinctorium Lour.) was also very resistant to fading in both exposure except silk. Whereas the dye groups of Red, Yellow, Orange, Brown colors indicated greatest changes in fading, particularly Carthamus tinctorius L.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.41 no.1
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• pp.61-69
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• 1999

The dyeing experiments were done by using tannin pigments and herbs for natural fabrics such as ramie, hemp and silk. The anti-bacterial ability and color fastness were examined for dyed fabrics. Dye materials containing tannin pigment such as oak tree leaf showed rich dyeing on ramie, hemp, and silk fabrics when the pH of dye solution is lower as well as the dyeing temperature is higher. In crimson dyeing, the colour of fabric showed red-purple when the crimson pigment was extracted at 40$^{\circ}C$, while yellow-red when extracted above 70$^{\circ}C$. The colour fastness of dye materials containing tannin pigment was excellent showing 3~4 grade or above, while most of those derived from chinese medicine showed poor colour fastness of below 3 grade. The anti-bacterial ability of dye materials derived from chinese medicine was high, since the sappan wood fabric showed low bacteria reduction rate.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.22 no.5
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• pp.670-687
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• 2014

This study focused on Jungchimak (coats with side slits) which was typically worn by men in the mid and late Joseon Dynasty. It was done research by examining the case of wearing Jungchimak centering on literature and paintings and analyzing its changes in terms of its form based on the relics that have been found in order to suggest the standard for the evaluation of the period of Jungchimak. Results are as follows. First, men who wore Jungchimak were the king, crown prince and Aristocratic under the official uniform or other robes or as ordinary clothes and shroud. Second, Jungchimak for king was mostly made of Dan (satin damask) and mostly jade green & navy in color, and it commonly used dragon pattern, cloud and treasure pattern, or grape pattern. The fabric used to make Jungchimak for crown prince was Dan & Ju (coarse-finished silk) and puple, green, jade green & navy in color. The fabric used to make Jungchimak for Aristocratic was Ju and indigo or white in color. Third, 251 relics have been announced until now. Most of them were made of silk fabric and had cloud and flower patterns. Fourth, Jungchimak showed changes through time in terms of collar and sleeve shapes, the ratio of armhole to sleeve opening, Geotseop (panel sewn on front opening for overlapping), Dang and Mu (side panel), the ratio of the total length of outer collar to the length of side slits, and the ratio of chest size to the width of lower end.