• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.15 no.4
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• pp.47-61
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• 2013

This paper compared and analyzed costume design shown in two movies that was adapted from the same original work, 'Snow White'. One movie consists of a western director and a western designer team while the other movie is shot by an Asian director and an Asian designer team. Two movies show similarity and difference in expression of characters in 'Snow White'. The findings are as followed;- Both movies project an image of modern women, which is mainly represented by active and confident women, However, Ishioka Eiko, the costume designer of < Mirror, Mirror >, created unique costume in the movie by applying splendid and vivid colors to western costume to make exotic feeling. On the other hand, Colleen Atwood, who was inspired by costume in each historic period and region of the Western. created costume that was closer to the tradition of the Western in his movie, < Snow White and the Huntsman >. The purpose of this study is to help the Korean movie industry to find a way to advance to the world market by fully understanding how the Easterners and the Westerners feel and express 'Snow White'. Moreover, this study may present a chance to review importance and value of the movie costume design area.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.20 no.2
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• pp.59-77
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• 2016

The purpose of this study is to use data from studies of headdresses which might be helpful for creating new fashion styles. Headdresses in 2010 S/S-2015 S/S Paris haute couture collections were analyzed in the following categories: years, season, brand, type, color, material, and image. The types of headdresses were categorized as hat, hood, decorative or complex types. The hat type was elegant with a modern style, and coexisted with an exaggerated avant garde style. The hood type wrapped around the head with many examples having a distinctive sculpture on top of the knot. The decorative type varied dramatically in form and materials. The complex type was a blend of all the other types with the designer's individuality being outstanding. The characteristics of headdresses were revealed first, as an enlargement of the materials category, second, as an expression of dramatic forms, and third, as complete coordination of the creative fashion image. The headdresses illustrate the designer's creativity in producing a variety of images. Henceforth they will be important as fashion items and independent designs in fashion styling.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.6
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• pp.149-157
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• 2016

For the Korean fashion industry to become more competitive, not only does it need to develop a higher value-added fashion products, but also needs to raise creative and professional talented people. The purpose of this study is to propose ways to develop new curriculum for education in the fashion design field by analyzing the degree of recognition about the importance of curriculum in fashion design. Based on the curriculums of fashion design field of universities, a survey was conducted using a questionnaire to measure the degree of importance and the degree of application for the curriculum of fashion design field. The study gathered data from 235 students from 6 universities in Seoul. Major conclusions of the study are as follows: First, preferred career courses after graduation were fashion designer for woman's or menswear, patterner. Second, clothing construction field is considered to be the most important subject in the present, while material planning field is considered to become the most important in the future. The fashion design field was evaluated as an important field in the present and the future. Third, fashion design, accessory design, fashion design CAD, fashion illustration were evaluated as important subjects and highly available for career. Fourth, fashion design CAD, fashion illustration, and textile design were evaluated as the courses that needed more emphasis. Flat sketch, spec sheet, on-the-job training were needed to be included. Fashion designer, and patterner were preferred for career courses. Clothing construction, material planning, and fashion design were evaluated as important fields. Accessory design, fashion design CAD, and fashion illustration were evaluated as important and highly available subjects for career. For the new curriculum in the fashion design field, more courses on fashion design CAD, fashion illustration, textile design and on-the-job training are needed.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.26 no.4
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• pp.18-31
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• 2022

Fashion is one of the main environmental pollution industries. To reduce pollution, much of the deadstock clothes are given a new value by being redesigning based on the designer's competency. This study aims to promote the revitalization of redesigning by analyzing and presenting hybrid design characteristics of the Sacai design collection, as a redesigning brand, and formative element characteristics of redesigning. A theoretical study using previous research on redesigning and related books and an empirical study analyzing the Sacai Collection were conducted. Based on the study results, there are four types of redesigning processes; recombination of heterogeneous clothing structure, reorganization by reversed function and position, reorganized composition by material processing, and mixing of heterogeneous materials. In the recombination of heterogeneous clothing structures, heterogeneous materials and structures coexist by combining the clothing components with other clothing elements. The second is the reconstruction by subversion. The third is reconstruction by material processing. The fourth is a mixture of disparate materials. This study has innovative redesign features from Sacai designs, and there are plans for a follow-up study that will analyze the work of another designer who is recognized for the excellence in redesigning.

• Fashion Information and Technology
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• v.12
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• pp.28-36
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• 2015

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.15 no.6
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• pp.1063-1071
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• 2006

Fetishism, which has been a taboo for a long time, is stimulating the modem people's emotions by being reborn as a fashion trend by a number of designers like Jean Paul Gaultier, Vivienne Westwood and Claud Montana. Especially, Jean Paul Gaultier, called the bad boy of the fashion industry, is leading the Paris fashion world by expressing his unique fetish elements with his fantastic and uncommon ideas-males' wearing of skirts, wearing underwear like outer garments. Therefore, this study is aimed at investigating how his fetishism is shown in his works, understanding his fetish fashion world in the modem fashion and offering a new stepping-stone for fashion designers to actively participate in new fashion areas. Its results are as follows. First, it was found that the sensual designer Jean Paul Gaultier has been expressing his unique fetish elements in his collections like the following three styles of fetishism-fetishism by physical emphases, fetishism by items, fetishism by material. Second, the symbols of voluptuous beauty reflecting his own fetishism could be found in his movie costumes, license areas and given plots. Third, the work describing Jean Paul Gaultier's fetishism as a fetish image with the concept of Fantasy of Missing was evaluated as a successful work to express an internal sexual desire.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.6
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• pp.126-139
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• 2009

The following study from the perspective that the identity of a brand is determined by the creative work of the designer, will review the design identity of fashion house, which have maintained a basic concept of couture house until recently. For this purpose, first, the concepts of fashion house and identity could be examined, and then the design identity of both the past couture designer and the present house designer could be comparatively analyzed. This study focused on John Galliano of Dior, and was carried out under the method of document study and case study. Based on this, the analytic results of the design identity of fashion houses are as follows. The design identity of fashion house, which has its origins in the past couture house, appears from the house characteristics, design characteristics and the design image. The original design identity of Dior House seems to be feminism and elegant extravagance, which naturally models the body line of women into diverse lines. The new design identity of Dior House by Galliano, while reflecting wit and fantasy, at the same time is expressed as sexy and romantic elegance which attempts to express the beauty of modern women. The pursue of chic elegance, which is the characteristic of early Dior design, have changed into avant garde and unique designs with tendencies of multi-culturalism due to the most recent house designers. Finally, Dior house design has successfully maintained the master of handcrafted quality based on craftsmanship, the history from the house archive, and the modern trends appropriately added by the creativity of Galliano.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.2
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• pp.111-127
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to understand the importance of exterior influential factors and kunstwollen(artistic will) of fashion designer. In order to investigate the differences which based on periodic backgrounds, social influences, cultural actualities and kunstwollen, Vivienne Westwood, Issey Miyake and Hussein Chalayan who have different social and cultural contexts are selected. Also through this research, people would understand the clothes has the values as the art works which have philosophy of creator and recognize the importance of fashion as an intermediation for comprehension of history, society and culture. Vivienne Westwood presents her honor to British history and culture in the way of her unique interpretation. Also she expresses the authority and the pride of woman who lives in the present age. Issey Miyake accomplishes the harmony of human body and soul. He attains the most perfect beauty through incomplete beauty of cloth. Hussein Chalayan produces his fashion works as a form of concept which is keep asking question about existence of human being. Fashion is the work of art which Is based on the relationship between clothes, human body and spirit. The fashion designer makes human life has value through his or her creations and tries to communicate with the world.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.8
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• pp.82-96
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to present the basic approach of producing the luxury fashion brands containing of the Korean traditional traits on the basis of traditional transformation with the modern concept, taking the 'Vivienne Tam' 2000's collections. This study has focused on its transformation of the traditional one of China, and made this as the subject of investigation. It's design characteristic could be defined as "modern interpretations of China chic", and it would be divided into two groups. The ingenious mixture of Chinese tradition into the modern chic could be concluded like these. The external characteristics is categorized in the three ways (1) the aesthetic application of the Chinese traditional patterns(dragon, water waves, peony, Japanese apricot flower, bamboo, bats, Chinese characters etc.), (2)the modern application of Chinese traditional costume details(front opening of Chipao, mandarin collar and knot buttons) and (3)the modernization of Chinese traditional technique(knotting, embroidery, beading and paper cutting). To deal with the internal characteristics, (1)the aesthetic mixture of East and West, (2)the formative expressions of the traditional view on the universe and religion are remarkable. The Chinese embodiment and the view of the universe and religion was integrated into the patterns of dragon, water waves, clouds, fire, woods, and metals. In order to afford the creative designer capable of encompassing the East and West, the teaching about the Korean tradition along with the technical and practical aspect of fashion is most important, while encouraging the professional designer to make a sophisticated ones which are attributed to the Korean tradition, and thereby come to be attractive to the world customer. The study about the Korean costumes, traditional colors, the symbolic meaning of the traditional patterns, cuttings, compositions, extending to the various kinds of myths, songs, paintings and crafts are essential for the Korean designer brand to be the global luxury brands.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.3 no.2
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• pp.131-139
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• 2001

The fashion designers in Korea can achieve the winning position in the competitive international market of fashion industry by adapting our own traditional beauty to the modem fashion design through the modernization of the Korean traditional styles. Therefore, this study attempted to analyze the works of the active Korean fashion designer, Lee Young-Hee, focusing on the subject how she incorporated the modem fashion with the elements of Korean traditional costume. In order to study this subject, both quantitative and qualitative research methods were used to collect and analyse the design elements of Korean costume used in the designer's works found from the major fashion magazines, FASHION TODAY, WWD, ELLE, BAZAAR, Marie Claire, Areumdown-Uri-Ot, The Beauty of Korea and FASHION SHOW from 1993 to 1999. The collected research data, 95 works, was counted and analyzed in terms of the formal characteristics borrowed from Korean traditional clothing items and their application techniques. Other aesthetic characteristics of her works such as color, fabric and pattern were also analyzed. As a result of the study, it was found that Lee Young-Hee has adapted many different kinds of major Korean clothing items including 'chima', 'paji', 'po', and 'chogori'. Also it was apparent to note that the formal characteristics of Korean traditional clothing items were successfully incorporated into her fashion design works expressing the beauty of oriental grace, naturalism, sophistication, and above all, the modem sense.