• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제13권2호
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• pp.163-173
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• 2011

The objective of this study is to examine the current status of manufacturing formal knit jackets for middle-aged women. Fifteen manufacturers specializing in formal knitwear brands were chosen as the study subjects, and interviews and questionnaires were used with patterners and designers. The questionnaire was composed of 27 items and began with general questions, such as how the jackets were manufactured. Specific questions, such as materials and sewing method, were also considered further on. The results are as follows: First, as for the structure of the knit jacket manufacturer, seven out of fifteen manufacturers directly manufactured knit jackets in their own factory, while the manufacturing was comprised of 20% woven jackets and 80% knit jackets for all manufactures. Second, as for the type of yarn mostly used in knitting the fabric for the jackets, satin yarn and wool were used mostly for F/W with Plain and Half Milano rib stitches as the type of knit with a gauge of 12G and 7G. Third, as for the margin between the product size of the target brand and the size of the body at the time of designing a knit jacket pattern, the investigation of the actual state of manufacturing showed that the margin at the bust was B+4.8cm, the waist was W+6.9cm, and the hip girth was H+5cm. Therefore, the bust and hip girth of the knit jackets were designed to be smaller than those of the bust and hip girth lines of non-flexible woven jackets. On the contrary, the waist measurement of non-flexible woven jacket was designed to be smaller than the knit jacket. It was found that the side line of the knit jacket was expressed with greater give as compared to that of the non-flexible woven jacket.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제17권1호
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• pp.95-103
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• 2008

From the research which it sees the knit which is the competitive power it will be able to be sufficient the craving of the consumers who are changing be light from the which provides the fundamental data for production the F/W season knit wear it tried to know the age unit preference moral difference of item. The conclusion of the research which it the same. From all age unit pullover possession at 5 working for living, the jacket the ratio of the person whom it does not have entirely appeared most highly. The age unit knit wear twenties meaning item preference from, thirties and forties appeared with the item which pullover prefers most, fifties selected a cardigan case, an ensemble and the jacket and it prefers with the fact that. It appeared with the style which it prefers most from case P1, P2 all twenties of pullover, the cardigan proposal case appeared with the style which it prefers most from C1, C2 all fifties. From the jacket it appeared with the style which the J1 prefers from fifties-forties. Each age especially the F/W season knit wear the result which examines the wearing objective against, twenties become popular, thirties expression of individuality, forties convenient of activity, fifties for the convenient of activity complement of activity the knit wear with the fact that it wears.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제14권5호
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• pp.813-827
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• 2006

In this investigation, the following study was carried out for an experimental proposal of the knit item lists which were not actualized due to lack of studies. First of all, we have put the knit item titles that have been used through the document investigation, into the lists in order to clarify the original item list. Furthermore, we have pointed out the problems and the areas to be developed in the original item lists, and proposed twenty new knit item lists. By defining the design traits of each item, we have established item list which could be classified more systematically. As a result, the knit item titles of twenty newly proposed item titles are knit pull over, knit pull over top, knit top, knit t shirt, knit shirt, knit polo shirt, knit blouse, knit vest, knit hood, knit jumper, knit jacket, knit coat, knit cardigan, knit ensemble, knit cape, knit shawl, knit bikini, knit one-piece, knit pants, and knit skirt. Secondly, in order to investigate the possibility of practical use of twenty knit item lists proposed by this study, we have applied anova with repeated measurement for foreign fashion collection knit item trends of the past 10 years based on the proposed item lists. As a result, four items classified as top, shirt, cardigan, and pants had similar changes in the trend for last 10 years in S/S season while eleven items classified as pull over, pull over top, blouse, vest, jacket, coat, cardigan, ensemble, cape, shawl, and one-piece had similar trend changes for F/W season. The first significance of this study is on the experimental proposal of knit item list which could be used in the actual clothing industry and academic field. Furthermore, by defining the design traits of each knit item, it sublated the confusions brought by vocabularies in design of knit products and distribution in the industry perspective, and it made it possible to categorize the knit items correctly in knit design analysis and knit design education in academic field. The second significance shows that this study brought about positive results in the possibility of industrial academic practical use of proposed list by indicating that most of the knit designs appeared in the foreign collections in the past ten years could be correctly classified through investigational analysis.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제40권5호
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• pp.844-854
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• 2016

In order to understand the current state of production and pattern design of circular knitted jackets, this study selected 11 female clothing brands based from the "2012/2013 Korea Fashion Brand Yearbook" and interviewed the staff in charge of patterns at the companies. Polyester and polyurethane were found to be synthesized and used for the outshell of circular knitted jackets, alternatively natural fabric cotton or wool were synthesized with rayon. As for the structure of circular knitted materials, Ponte Di Roma knitting structure (a modified form of a double knit) was most often used. Surveying the use pattern and the parts for padding cloth, six responded that they used elastic padding cloth. As for circular knitted jackets with inner lining, elastic padding cloth was attached to all parts (front, back, side panel, and collar - except for sleeves) of the basic bodice pattern. Eight responded that they did not use a basic pattern when designing a pattern, which exceeds the majority. All respondents answered yes to the question on if there is any difference in designing a pattern for a woven jacket and a circular knitted jacket. It was found that they designed a pattern that considered shrinkage and elongation, which are the features of circular knitted fabric. Shrinkage and elongation were the features of a fabric material most considered when designing patterns for a circular knitted jacket.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제18권2호
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• pp.431-439
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• 2009

This research aims to invest consumers' purchase behavior and preference of F/W season knit wear to prepare for basic data in producing competitive knit wear which can meet consumers' demands. The results are as follows: 1. Consumers in their twenties are largely purchasing their knit wear at bonded clothing shops, consumers in their thirties at outlet stores and consumers in their forties and fifties at department stores. As for preferred materials in knit wear, the twenties like 100% of cotton, the thirties mixed wool, and the forties and the fifties 100% of wool. Across all age groups, they prefer knit wear pattern with no figures, while they consider its design and color as important factors in purchasing F/W knit wear. 2. As for the wearing sensations of F/W knitwear of three age groups, there are not significant differences in other factors except a factor of 'jacket length'. 3. As for the fitting sensation about F/W knit wear, consumers with 'thin' somatotype feel high comfort in the factor of 'girth', while consumers with standard somatotype feel high satisfaction in the factor of 'length'.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제45권4호
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• pp.43-51
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• 2007

This study analyzed the knit wear trend, which has gained attention as a sensuous and luxury item, through collection magazines, and used the technique of hand-knit to produce and present the knit wear that was designed based on the study results. Accordingly, the purpose of this study is to raise awareness of the expansion of hand knit's new expression techniques and expression areas and to verify its possibility as a higher value-added product. The trends of hand-knit wear resulted from the analysis of collections divided into the following four groups, and the knit designs were also grouped accordingly: First was "The design using object." The trend survey showed the results that the form of drops or flowers was often used as a factor of object. Accordingly, as for the study design, the drop-knitting technique, which is one of the pattern knitting techniques, was used to present a design that employed drops as the object. Second was "The design matched with woven material." It is a way to emphasize aesthetic formativeness and at the same time to activate the area of knit design by matching woven material, which is different from knit in texture, with knit. This study presented a design that tried to combine knit texture and woven material by connecting denim material with various textures and colors. Third was "The design to express see-through." A sense of showing through knit wear was expressed through changes in the type of thread or knitting technique. In this study, the sense of see-through was expressed using piano wires and wool threads and through changes in the thickness of needle. Fourth was "The design to emphasize coloring." It was analyzed that regarding the production of hand knit, the method of coloring expression was to express points, lines and sides or to create harmony by changing the material's color or texture to show particular objects or shapes. In this study, a jacket was designed using the method to express points, lines and sides by changing the material's color.

• 복식
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• 제56권8호
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• pp.15-34
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• 2006

Knit wear was industrialized, diversified, specialized and was made into high-class and it is including knitted cloth and small product for fashion as well as cardigan, sweater, and jacket etc. unlike past recognition only with underwear and inner wear. To consider elasticity to be the best strength of knit wear, middle-aged women that form change is serious are wearing knit wear as clothes for going out, and this may be regarded as clothes action to be conscious of form than vogue. Thus, in this study, this researcher tried to suggest solution scheme through the development of design of knit wear to supplement the form defect of middle-aged women. This researcher tried to develop the design of knit wear to supplement the form defect of middle-aged women, after examining the theoretical background of knit wear, the bodily and mental feature of middle-aged women. Internal and external knit wear brand that middle-aged women prefer as the scheme for solving the problematic form of middle-aged women with knit wear. As the result first, to see the present situation of inland production enterprise of knit wear, almost all the brand companies are concentrating energies on widening age class. Second, middle-aged women become far off from the form which is regarded ideal form in modern society. Third, result that this researcher examined the brand of knit wear of middle-aged women is as follows : MORADO, Cartknit, Escalier. And, in foreign knit wear brand, ST John, Missoni, ESCADA. Fourth, as the result that this researcher did work manufacture for the supplement of form defect of middle-aged women, it has practical and active side, and off-time has high-class and elegant refined beauty.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제46권2호
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• pp.127-135
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• 2008

The study purpose was to increase Han-bok's convenience by changing materials while maintaining keep the traditional Han-bok style. For this purpose we surveyed actual Han-Bok wearers about the inconveniences of its form and design by combining knit with Han-bok. On the basis of this survey, we present a practical design for use in daily fife. Responding to the question about Jeo-Go-Ri(jacket), most respondents preferred a Han-bok which stressed elasticity by utilizing knit on Jeo-Go-Ri's front and back body line(JD1, JD4). For the question about ann holes, most respondents liked a design which substituted knit materials for Sam-hoi-jang(colorful strips) to ensure ease of use and shorten both the width and length of the breast-tie(JD2, JD3). For the sleeve edge, they preferred a design which solved the difficulties of rolling up the sleeve when working ($JD2{\sim}JD5$). Regarding the most inconvenient aspect of wearing Chi-mas(skirts), the respondents indicated tightening of the breast and an uncomfortable feeling due to the skirt length. This suggested that the waist of the vest should be lengthened to avoid the feeling of pressure(CD2, CD5). Regarding changes to the skirt shape the respondents preferred buttons and hooks rather than using skirt strings(CD4, CD5).

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제17권4호
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• pp.77-90
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• 2015

This study is to designed to provide foundation for knit design which can apply the thickness and flexibility of jacquard knit by analyzing and comparing mechanical properties of 7 types of jacquard (normal jacquard, bird's eye jacquard, floating jacquard, tubular jacquard, ladder's back jacquard, blister jacquard, transfer jacquard) widely used in knit design to achieve the results. The sample was projected by using 7 gauge and SES-122S type computer knitting machine house tooth pattern with two colors were applied to 7 types of jacquard using Acrylic/Wool(30%/70%) $2/50.5^{\prime}s{\times}4ply\;yarn$ by Shimaseiki MFG., Ltd computer knitting machine. The mechanical properties of 7 types of jacquard samples were measured using KES-FB (Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabric, Kata Tech Co. Ltd). HV(Hand Value) and THV (Total Hand Value) were calculated by using the formula of KN-402-KT and KN-301-WINTER respectively. The measurements were evaluated by 0-to-5 rating scale. As result, the floating jacquard was found to have excellent drape, making it suitable for express feminine silhouette with its most flexible and smooth touch. On the other hand, bird's eye jacquard is adequate for a suit jacket and coat regarding its excellent volume and flexibility. Blister jacquard and tubular jacquard are thick, heavy and stiff knit and both are suitable for simple box-style design. Ladder's back jacquard, however, is more appropriate for expressing the design of feminine charm and voluminous design. Based on the result of this study, it is supposed to provide basic information for development of knit industry regarding jacquard knit by designing the creative knit wear with high production efficiency.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제15권4호
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• pp.596-605
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• 2013

This study investigates the wearing trend and purchase facts for adult females in their 20s and 30s along with their fitting satisfaction for woven jackets and circular knitted jackets. A questionnaire survey on consumers investigated satisfaction with jackets according to clothing materials and repair trend after wearing. Subsequently, a preference for circular knitted jackets was shown higher than woven jackets. Females in their 20s preferred woven jackets than those in their 30s; however, the latter preferred circular knitted jackets than the former. For woven jackets, they showed the highest satisfaction with size; however, for circular knitted jackets, they showed the highest satisfaction with fitting. In the question on their satisfaction by jacket part, satisfaction with circular knitted jackets was higher in all items except for bust measurement, bottom edge measurement, elbow circumference, shoulder width, and clothes length. Circular knitted jackets had lower repair rates than woven jackets and woven jackets had significant differences by age in satisfaction with back width. The research results indicate that females in their 20s and 30s who value fit preference and practicality will increasingly wear knit clothes. Therefore, we can address the fitting satisfaction requirement of females in their 20s and 30s by taking the clothing material properties of circular knitted clothes into consideration. In addition, further research is required on jacket patterns in consideration of clothing materials.