• 복식문화연구
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• 제13권5호
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• pp.763-776
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to analyze the glamour image in contemporary women's fashion since 1990. The method of study is to analyze the documentary and fashion magazines about the glamour images. Most of all, glamour has been composed by connection of hollywood film industry and fashion. Glamourous body image showed sensual, threatening and vague body. Formative characteristics in fashion showed a tight silhouette, neglige, lace look, dress showing neck and shoulder, fur coat, stiletto, diamond, gold, big and thick jewelry, satin, velvet, lace, mink and fox fur, etc. Internal meaning was a fantasy, ideal, wealth, fame, hyper-feminity, vagueness, vulgarity, sexuality, mystery, professional, fatalness, aggressiveness and evil. Since 1990, the glamour images in fashion were as follows; First, the glamour with hyper-feminity showed a classical femme-fatal image as fearful existence with a power more than allure. Second, the glamour with vulgarity showed an exaggerated, cheap and popular kitsch image, which have intense colors, lavish surfaces and excessive sexual signs. Third, the glamour with classical sensuality showed a hi-glamour image of hollywood actresses being active from 1930 to 1950, which was expressed glittery dress, stole, diamond, fur wrap, hill, luxury dress. Fourth, the glamour with sexual perversion showed an erotic, vague and sexual drag image, and fetish costume. Fetishistic elements were rubber, PVC, stiletto, thick and high boots and corset and particularly, they were a main method of expression of glamour image. Fifth, the glamour with future image showed a mechanical and mysterious image and it was a conscious style by metallic, plastic and sleeky fabric. In conclusion, glamour fashion image is an ideal beauty type of women and will exist as a meaningful aesthetic sign in women's fashion.

• 복식
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• 제54권4호
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• pp.145-156
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• 2004

This study is regarding closed and open forms, which have relatively high recognition among visual perception phenomena in costumes. In particular, this study reviewed closeness and openness of ethnic look, which is a representative open costume. Closed form can be summarized as simple and clear silhouette, conspicuous differentiation from the background, simple construction of the costume and colors with low brightness and clearness. It Is modern, functional, rational and modest. On the other hand, open form can be summarized as complicated and inconspicuous edge line, complicated inner shape and colors with high brightness, high clearness and vividness. It includes concepts of pleasure, entertainment, joy, eroticism, rebel and resistance. Modern costumes have been simplified for a long time and they have functional and closed characteristics in their shape, structure and form. On the other hand, modern open form costumes are usually found in sub-cultural styles such as punk, hippie, kitsch and vintage, and some ethnic looks. Following is a summary of the characteristics of open form shown in the ethnic look. 1. The shape, structure of costumes, hair accessories, lace, ruffle and ornaments are complicated and irregular. 2. The silhouette is inconspicuous because of ambiguity between backgrounds and ABC (Apparel-Body-Construct) or the use of see-through materials. 3. It makes complicated visual shapes because it does not have a single type but is composed of various clothing items together. 4. It gives complex feelings by matching various colors or more than two different fabrics. 5. It looks like the open type because of the complex patterns shown in the costumes.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제6권5호
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• pp.72-86
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• 2002

Recently the fashion design has been expressed mixing trend of antipodal concept. There are shown disorganization of existing standard with eclectism, pursued more sensational fashion by the sense of unease. And there are spreaded body exposure in producing on a commercial scale for sex, are shown the phenomenon by wearing innovation inner-wear in private area are exposed out. The purpose of this study are to consider preponderantly the fashion design using corset, shown up as the motive of costume design from 1990's to 2002's, define the character of molding. and extend the width of understanding of modern fashion. The results of the study are as follows: 1. The trend of deconstructionism as one line of fashion world in the 1990's make into outer garment of inner-wear, corset has been using the main item of infra costume. The past corset was existed innerwear, but it is revived various forms by transforming outer garment of body expression consciously. 2. Corset look is shown double faced factory of the beauty of tradition and decadence, vulgarity and nobility, concealment and exposure, and are expressed boldly the free consciousness outer about woman's sex with the improvement of woman's social position. 3. The molding character of Corset look divided Eroticism, Fetishism, Deconstructionism. Futurism. The trend of Corset look design is the emphasized sexual part of lace-up and cutting line of corset, and various details of see-through, kitsch, glitter look. Therefore, the trend of Corset look will be applied the modern fashion and used as motif of new design, affected the inspiration of more developed design with grafting of up-to-date fabrics and processing technique.

• 디자인학연구
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• 제15권1호
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• pp.257-266
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• 2002

현대사회는 고도로 단원화하고 광범위하게 조직된 사회구조로 되어가고 있다. 후기 산업사회인 현대의 문화적 측면은 포스트모더니즘으로 이러한 경향이 전 학문영역에 보여지고 있다. 따라서 포스트모더니즘은 20세기 후반을 지배하는 일종의 시대정신이 되고 있다. 포스트모더니즘은 모더니즘에 대한 반발로 제2차 세계대전이후 서구 세계에 나타나기 시작한 다양한 예술적, 지적, 사상적 경향을 막연히 지칭하는 표현이다. 포스트모던 사회인 현대는 탈분화와 탈조직화, 사회구조의 이완, 해체 등의 특징을 나타낸다. 포스트모더니즘의 발생배경, 특징 및 철학을 연구함으로 포스트모더니즘의 이론적 배경을 파악하였다. 그러한 포스트모더니즘의 영향이 산업디자인의 영역에서 어떠한 경향을 보이고 있는지 미니멀리즘, 레트로디자인, 키치적디자인, 해체주의디자인, 신소재사용디자인 및 사이버디자인에 관해 연구하였다.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제20권5호
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• pp.87-101
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• 2016

In this study, a variety of influence in the field of design and analysis about the value of a Grunge Design and the creative design inspirations in the field of hair design to help the development of the quality of research. The research methods use the Internet publications such as local and foreign information, analysis and related research and book form, such as the network search, library goes for consideration by a literature search. The contents of this study used review of the case and by Grunge design, expressive characteristics by color, texture and form of Grunge hair design, from 2014 to 2016 trend collections in the last three years through the analysis of design by date of the case. The result of this study is, Grunge design appearing in the areas of hair design, that are grunge anti fashion like the beauty of the disorder, the disharmony, the incomplete, the kitsch, the poverty. Although Grunge means dirt, filth, rubbish as a slang but it is valuable which was raised from the anti fashion to high fashion and alternative of main stream fashion and the hair design in modern fashion also brought. In this study, we can understand the grunge hair design in modern fashion was started from lower place as alternative and forecast the potentialities, the formativeness of the grunge design and value of the beauty and grunge anti fashion the identity and the spirit appearing steadily a modern fashion influence are reflected in our next fashion and design characteristics.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제17권4호
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• pp.561-574
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• 2009

Black has been the most important color of all since the ancient times when the recognition of black roused, as well as during most of the eras; and can especially be said as the main color which controlled the chronicles of fashion. The purpose of the study was to broaden the application of black color image make-up by inquiring into make-up design elemental characteristics of lines and textures, after classifying magazine illustrations and advertisement make-up images using black. The photos which made effective use of black among fashion illustrations, magazine advertisements after 2001 were classified in to each type, and make-up expression method and characteristics according to design element of each image type was analyzed. The conclusion of such study was the following. 'Erotic image' showed contrast effect between eye make-up and lip color by using pale tone or red color. 'Mannish image' emphasized form and texture of eyebrow by restraining the colors of eyelids with natural brown tone eye make-up; 'Modern image' expressed vague eyebrow to bring the sensation of the direction of eye shadow on eyelids and eye line as well as slant line to relief. 'Kitsch image' showed free and light imagery by creating unique hair style with various colors; expressing lips mostly with colors similar to skin tone or by restraining colors on lips. 'Decadence image' showed messy and foul sensation with unstandardized eye make-up and matt skin of shimmer, glossy and pale tone, also with black colored lips; 'Retro image' expressed reinterpretation of images from 1920${\sim}$1960 to contemporary styles.

• 복식
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• 제65권5호
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• pp.126-141
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to examine the works of choreographer Philippe $Decoufl{\acute{e}}$ and the performance costumes designer Philippe Guillotel, and identify the intrinsic values shown in the formative characteristics in their works. And it proposes a vision and a direction for the development and performance of modern fashion phenomenon of media convergence performing arts complex. The results were as follows. First, the performance characteristics shown in Philippe $Decoufl{\acute{e}}$'s art pattern applies dynamic improvisation, decategorization reflected in the media interactivity, time and space of a variable scalability, complex artistic genres and transcends cultural boundaries. Second, the characteristics of the performance costume can be described as a co-existence between dynamics of aesthetic layers, 'Media body' represented by the interaction of the compounds with the technology, and integrated variable expandability. And aesthetic values inherent in the performance costumes are summarized as abstraction, playfulness, reproducibility, and theatricality. Modern fashion performance and limited production of the center 'costumes' in the fashion images can be used in diverse ways, and innovative marketing has gone through a change in image production. Metaphysical text of the advanced performance genre can be presented in a new perspective to fashion derivatives 'Media body'. And the aesthetics of popular culture kitsch, the grotesque, and surrealism in theater will produce creative stage direction.

• 문화기술의 융합
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• 제6권1호
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• pp.361-366
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• 2020

영화 <어둔 밤>(심찬양, 2018), <오늘도 평화로운>(백승기, 2019)은 저예산영화라는 측면에서나 키치와 패러디 같은 서브컬처의 요소를 중점적으로 사용한다는 점에서 B급 영화의 성격을 파악하기 적절한 영화라고 할 수 있다. <오늘도 평화로운>과 <어둔 밤>의 B급 정서를 구성하는 가장 중요한 요소는 초현실적 공간 활용과 언어 사용의 자의성이다. 그런 면에서 본다면, <오늘도 평화로운>, <어둔 밤>은 만화의 성격을 차용한 매체의 경계를 넘나드는 속성을 갖고 있는 영화들이다. 영화 감상 동아리 회원들이 영화를 찍는 이야기를 하는 영화 <어둔 밤>은 황당한 이야기 전개에도 불구하고 영화를 찍는 문제에 대해 현실적이고 구체적인 접근을 하고 있다. <오늘도 평화로운>은 주인공 영준이 영화감독의 꿈을 위해 잡역부 일을 하면서 모은 돈으로 노트북을 사려다 사기를 당하고 직접 범죄소굴을 일망타진한다는 내용이다. 결론적으로, <오늘도 평화로운>, <어둔 밤>의 내용과 형식은 코미디 효과를 가중시키지만, 웃음 속에 진로에 대한 고민이나 보이스피싱 피해 등 현실적인 사회 문제를 지적하고 있으며, 영화를 만드는 것이 어떤 의미인지도 성찰하고 있는 영화들이다.

• 한국콘텐츠학회논문지
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• 제16권10호
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• pp.483-491
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• 2016

본 연구의 목적은 '정보의 즉각적 인지가 가능하면서 미적 문화적 특수성을 내재'하고 있는 STA(Short-term Attractive) 정보의 인지적 특성을 파악하고 그에 맞는 시각화 속성과 표현 방법을 모색하는 것이다. 정보디자인과 인지심리학을 바탕으로 STA 정보의 인지적 특성을 도출하고, 정보의 노출빈도와 인지도 관계에 따른 정보 속성에 관한 선행연구를 토대로 STA 정보의 시각화 속성 네 가지를 도출하였다. 정보 인지적 측면에서 STA 정보의 주요 시각화 속성인 '이해 할만한(Understandable)', '간결성(Conciseness)'에 대한 주요 표현 방법으로 은유, 환유, Indexical Image와 Context의 활용, 수사학, 기억보조장치(Mnemonic Device)를 제안하였다. 정보의 감성적 지각 측면에서는 주요 시각화 속성인 '타당성(Relevance)', '가치 있는(Valuable)'에 대한 주요 표현 방법으로 익살, 패러디, 특수성, 친근감, 키치, 조형적 아름다움, 새로움을 제안하였다. 본 연구의 결과를 바탕으로 향후 표현 방법들과 정보 적용 환경에 따른 인지도 관계 분석을 진행하고자 한다.

• 미술이론과 현장
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• 제7호
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• pp.7-36
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• 2009

This paper intends to examine the significance of the "Minjoong Misool(People's art)" of the 1980s emerged in Korea in its social, cultural, and art historical context. This paper also aims to provide an analysis of the meaning and form of the individual artist's works, which have been overlooked under the dominant discourse that has emphasized their political role as a collective group. In particular, this paper scrutinizes the work of "Critical Realists" by examining the way in which they perceived Korean society in the early 1980s and visualized their experiences of the period. The figurative art newly emerged in the early 1980s challenged the formalist Modernism, which was adopted into Korea and translated into monochrome paintings and the work of the conversative academicism of the 1970s. The figurative art encouraged a social communication and moreover it intended to criticize the conflicts in the political, economical, and social domains in Korea. The targets of its critique include the unavoidable results of the unprecedented development of economy, various social phenomena of the post-industrial society, and the growth of the commercialized kitsch culture. Along with Shin, Hak-chul's work that incorporates collage technique since the 1980s, the work of some members of "Reality and Utterance" and "Im- sul-nyun" exemplify their critical interests in disclosing the false dream of wealth and happiness by both referring to and drawing on the utopian fantasy manipulated and distributed by mass media and commercial advertisements. This paper pays particular attention to Nouvelle Figuration emerged in France and Europe during the 1960s, which is comparable to the new figurative art emerged in Korea during the 1980s. Nouvelle Figuration criticized the autonomy in art isolated itself from political and social reality after WWII, in particular the indifference of Informel and abstract art as well as American abstract art. Moreover it became rather politicized around May of 1968. Given that French Nouvelle Figuration was introduced in Korea in 1982 and made a significant contribution to the formation of figurative art in Korea, it should be noted that the new figurative art emerged in the 1980s in Korea cannot be categorized merely in relation to People's Art. This paper intends to critically redress the notion that People's art was formed in the particular political, economical, and cultural context of Korea independent of the contemporary artistic practices outside Korea. It will provide a critical examination and analysis of the content and form of the new figurative art, from which People's Art was germinated, in the global context.