• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제5권5호
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• pp.443-452
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• 2003

People have been getting interested in the Orientalism and it has come up in various areas due to scientific progress. I designed uniforms, which was simple and western, to show its symbolic meanings in the Orientalism. And I have been trying to generalize uniforms with originality and beauty. I have studied the process of the Orientalism and its changes and transitions, concepts and origins in history. And I applied the styles of Korean, Japanese and Chineses costume on it. I also referred to characters of uniforms, which already had images of Korea, Japan and China. Firstly, Korean styles have a contrast in colors by application of Taegeuk. And they gave lines with dark colors in black one-piece dress. This makes people who are wearing looking slimmer. White ramie top looks fresh and Korean traditional tie called Maedeup is set up for button. Secondly, Japanese styles were mainly Kimono style, one piece. They changed into two pieces designed to be active. So, it has emphasized the image of Kimono with Obi at the waist. Thirdly, Chinese styles basically are Chipao style, which has a Chinese collar and a long skirt, which has opening. But they gradually changed into short skirts and more open in the chest. For one of them, they gave lines in the side of chest, sleeves and skirt to be more natural. The costumes have kept their positions as a part of mass society that grows and changes with speed. And oriental uniforms are not just uniforms any longer only for work. It is quite symbolic like a 'second face' as it represents images for their countries and enterprises.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제7권5호
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• pp.481-493
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• 2005

Reason for contemporary ethnic-look's remarkable world popularity is viewed as due to counteraction of disordered world conditions such as war, terror, and economic depression. These conditions led people to desire the returning to primitive human society where freedom and peace are preserved. The background of ethnic look emergence is influences of post-modernism, eastern and western culture hybrid, and ecology. This study will mainly focus on the analysis of present ethnic fashion trend and, with following to this, their images will be analyzed and categorized. The result of ethnic trend, especially that of Asian's and African's, from 2000 to 2005 is like this: representative Asian ethnic fashion tendency is focusing on Japanese and Chinese. In Japanese style, oversized silhouette was derived by Kimono and wide belt was appeared by influence of Kimono's Obi. Chinese ethic style are analyzed as adapting feministic silhouette and details from Chinese traditional clothes, Chipao. Additionally, in some of the Chinese ethnic-look, there are mixtures with Japanese, North American, and African's images. Mixing with pop images and ancient ones are also emerged. In the African ethnic look, people used colorful cloth and new materials which is considered as integration of primitives and modern science. From the study, it is possible to conclude that current modern ethnic fashion can be defined as blends with one country's image to the other, mixture with new technology, and acceptance to the multi-national folk fashion. These trends are widely revealed and extended in the world fashion. In the following result of the analysis, there were four outstanding images lying underneath in the present ethnic-look. That is eclectic, traditional, natural, and mysterious images.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제15권5호
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• pp.713-721
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• 2013

This study compares the perceived body image of female college students in Korea and Japan as well as explains the difference in the level of self-esteem, body cathexis, body image and fashion leadership based on nationality and body. The sense of fashion leadership affected by these factors was also analyzed. A high ratio of Korean and Japanese female students perceived themselves as obese compared to actual body physique. It was shown that body was highly distorted. They showed a comparatively low level of satisfaction with appearance in contrast to their high interest in their appearance and weight. Thin bodied individuals showed a high level of self-esteem and body cathexis; however, persons with an obese body showed a low level of body cathexis. They showed high interest in appearance regardless of body physique; however, they remain unsatisfied with their appearance. Individuals with an obese body and a standard somatotype showed a high concern with weight. A high fashion opinion leadership was reciprocal to a high interest in appearance and satisfaction with appearance. Korean female students showed an indirect positive effect on fashion opinion leadership through body cathexis, self-esteem, interest in appearance, and satisfaction with appearance. A thin body showed a positive effect on fashion opinion leadership and an obese body had a negative effect. Fashion innovativeness was directly influenced persons with a high degree of self-esteem and interest in appearance. Japanese female students were directly affected by fashion innovativeness; however, Korean female students were indirectly affected by fashion innovativeness through self-esteem and interest in appearance.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제15권4호
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• pp.606-612
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• 2013

This paper investigates the physical properties of organic cotton staple yarns manufactured by ring and siro spinning methods as well as analyzes the physical properties of fabric specimens knitted with staple yarns made by these two methods. The breaking stress and evenness of organic ring staple yarns showed the same level for the Japanese specimens as the control yarns; in addition, the same coefficient for the friction of the manufactured yarns and Japanese specimens was also shown. These results makes it possible to manufacture organic staple ring yarns from organic cotton fibers. The tenacity and breaking strain of siro staple yarns were higher than ring staple yarns. The evenness and friction coefficient of siro staple yarns were lower than the ring staple yarns; in addition, hairiness and the number of siro staple yarns was significantly lower than the ring staple yarns. The dimensional stabilities of knitted fabrics by 20 Ne and 30 Ne siro staple yarns were superior to ring staple yarns. The color fastnesses of washing, perspiration and abrasion of knitted fabrics by two spinning methods showed the same level as the 4.5 grade; however, the light fastness of knitted fabric by siro staple yarns was superior to ring staple yarns. It was shown that the siro spinning method (using eco-friendly organic cotton fibers) was applicable to a high sensible knitted garment that overcame drawbacks of organic fibers related to shrinkable properties after washing and low color fastness to light.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제8권3호
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• pp.27-34
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• 2006

Flexibility, love of symbols, small size-these are all qualites that accompany the proclivity towards compactness in Japanese culture. They developed and have been refined to an unusual level in Japan partly out of the necessity to use limited space economically, but these qualities also characterize the aesthetic preferences of the people. Because space is so precious, it receives a great deal of attention in every aspect of life. Over the centuries Japanese have devised innumerable ways to use space that are ingenious in their successful combination of pragmatism, harmony, and beauty. Folding, stacking, rolling, nesting, carrying, consolidating, miniaturizing and transforming are some of the techniques for living that have created the compact culture. Folding allows a one-dimensional object to be placed in prescribed small space. Stacking objects of the same shape makes use of vertical space, saving valuable horizontal space. Rolling an object reduces it to a tidy cylinder without creasing it, creating yet another form of repose for functionally flat things. Nesting several identically shaped objects of graduated sizes is known as ireko. Carrying things by hand makes them available for any occasion, by plan or on impulse. Consolidating is to bring together the multifarious systems of living into an integrated whole. Miniaturizing things is a way to bring even the universe down to the scale of a human hand. Transforming the face of things is another notable propensity in the Japanese life style. Each one is put to use in countless ways, suggesting principles and conceptions that encapsulate the wisdom of tradition. In this study I wishes to investigate the principals of Japanese traditional design and the applied case in fashion goods.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제11권3호
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• pp.23-31
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• 1999

In order to investigate the detergency of the mixture of compact detergent and bleaching agent to fabric stained with a coffee and a red wine, respectively, and a japanese wet stained fabrics, to evaluation of detergency was studied under various washing conditions. In order to study the effect of alkaline agent addition on the detergency, the soda ash was added in the compact detergent system. The results are as follows : In a low temperature washing condition, the alkalinity of washing liquor effected more the removal of the composite stained fabrics than that of oilic stained fabrics. For the colored stained fabric such as red wine stained sample, the influence of the repeated washing treatment on the detergency was not significant factor. On the other hand, the influence of the repeated washing treatment for the coffee stained and japanese wet stained fabric on the detergency was gradually increased.

• 한국가정과학회지
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• 제9권2호
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• pp.43-52
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• 2006

This study has been conducted to find out the characteristics of the form and the color of make-up in Oriental traditional plays by comparing the characteristics of Hahoe masque, which is one of Koran traditional plays with those of Chinese Peking Opera and Japanese Noh plays. The object of the study was confined to the make-up of women players. The distinguished characteristics of women make-up of oriental traditional plays are as followings. First, the make-up of woman players in Korean Hahoe masque adopts mask make-up and expresses the mental state of players very realistically. Second, the women players in Chinese Peking Opera wear face make-up and it is beautifully expressed but not exaggerated. Third, most of Japanese Noh players wear face make-up. However, only women players wear mask make-up so that they might express non-realistic mood. Overall, the women players in Korean Ha-hoe masque adopt mask make-up, Chinese Peking Opera face make-up, and Japanese Noh both mask and face make-up.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제19권3호
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• pp.259-266
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• 2017

In a contemporary fashion along with the advance of high technology, development of a new material is being increasingly emphasized and the need of creative convergence using a computer is being expanded. As a global designer who appeared through association between Japan and the West, Issey Miyake has been continually pursuing a new challenge and a solution using high technology, leading the globalization of Japanese fashion. This research aims at examining design characteristics of Issey Miyake collection's A-POC showing a new paradigm, that is, an innovative clothing manufacture system to input information on materials, colors and shapes into a textile machine based on the computer program and manufacture a cylindrical fabric for completion of seamless clothing without sewing or cutting. A-POC is evolving continually through the development of new materials including recycled fibers and organics together with diversification of processing technology. Besides, it shows design characteristics including an integrated manufacturing method, autonomy for customers' selection, practicality for comfortable wearing by the majority, environment friendly idea to reduce waste of fabrics and materials and a new presentation through convergence of exhibition concepts of modern art. This research on Issey Miyake's A-POC characteristics is expected to present a role of fashion designers in a new design idea and paradigm of contemporary clothing using high technology.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제10권1호
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• pp.22-29
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• 2008

In this study, it is investigated the types and the compounding method of flower patterns and the uses of flower patterned fabrics in Chosun Dynasty. Research was done through the references of exhumed clothing during 16-17th century. Our ancestors had used the various flower patterns based on Buddhism, Taoism and Confucianism onto the fabrics. The flower patterns on the fabrics were expressed with the other patterns such as treasure patterns, letter patterns or bird patterns. And the flower patterns symbolized the various good meanings such as longevity, integrity and prosperity etc. In the order of the percentage, the types of the flower patterns were shown Lotus(27.31%), Arabesque(26.85%), Japanese apricot(14.81%), Peony(8.79%), Flowering plants(6.94%), Chrysanthemum(6.01%), Pomegranate(2.31%) patterns and so on. Especially the Lotus pattern was shown up most frequently. That of shape was designed as blooming(開花), full bloom(滿開) and the side of flower(側面). By the compounding method, the compound types mixed with the other patterns were used much more than the individual types composed by its own pattern. The flower patterns were used a lot in Jeogori(Jacket) regardless of the ganders and in men's Po(coat) including Cheollik(天翼), Dappo(胡), Jeonbok(戰服), Dahnryoung(團領), etc. Also contrary to these days, the flower patterned fabrics had come out in the shrouds. Judging from these facts, our ancestors wished that the meaning of the immortal life was included in the flower pattern.

• 복식
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• 제59권4호
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• pp.14-25
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• 2009

This Study is purposed to comparative analysis in the case of balanced with Ethnic image fashion and the event of an unbalanced between fashion and make-up and to reconfigure on the make-up of the features on the Ethnic image Fashion in the 21st century. The result of this study is as follows. First, in the case of Japanese ethnic image make-up, to emphasize applied forms and formative characterization, they generally use circles and horizontal lines. Also the harmony between Japanese image make-up and primary colors like white and red strengthen ethnic images better. In the event of an unbalance between fashion and image make-up, fashion occurs dynamically in Africa and linearly in China. Sexy & natural image make-up also widely appear in the modern view. Second, in the case of African ethnic make-up balanced with African image fashion, the form is repeatedly dotted, widely water-colored, and mattedly textured using ash make-up colors such as white, red, gold, gray and so forth. African image make-up strongly expresses primitive natural beauty adding primal tribal painting art and mask forms. In case of an unbalance between fashion and image make-up, no distinctive ethnic image make-up appears. To emphasize natural patterns as well as splendid & decorative fashion, they try not to use primary colors, but instead focus on natural make-up and monotone colored point make-up, sexy make-up, avant-garde make-up, goth make-up, romantic make-up, glossy make-up.