• Title/Summary/Keyword: Japanese Textile

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Orientalism in modern Clothing Aesthetics (현대복식미에서의 오리엔탈리즘)

  • Lee, Eun-Yeong
    • The Journal of Natural Sciences
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    • v.7
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    • pp.121-131
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    • 1995
  • Orientalism showed in early 20th century as change of Style. Modern characteristics is understanded through big stream of change before historical conception. Change of style in West began by artist having oriental and exotic taste. These are mimesis of outershape about Japanese, Moroco, north Africa etc. Theses are called chinoiserie & turquise taste. Stream of 20th century style is continued expressionism. Cubism, Sur realism, Pop Art etc. but in my thesis orientalism is caused change of 20th Century after exotism (after showed as Primitivism ). In modern costume, concerned works of Paul Poiret changed body concious. He's a image creator as Yve St. Laurent, Chanel, Balenciaga. At that time Russia Ballet, Fauvist, vivid colors are back ground of series of modern costume. Soft and sleek body, transparent stocking, minaret tunic, turban is begin of oriental image. Modern costume and modern art are begins as change of aesthetic taste before historical conception.

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History of the Korean Society of Applied Entomology for its First Fifty Years (한국응용곤충학회의 첫 50년 역사)

  • Boo, Kyung-Saeng
    • Korean journal of applied entomology
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    • v.51 no.2
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    • pp.171-190
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    • 2012
  • The Korean Society of Applied Entomology (KSAE) celebrates its First 50 years history this year, 2011. It began in the year 1962, as the Korean Society of Plant Protection (KSPP) to discuss all aspects of plant protection including entomology and plant pathology. At that time it was one of the earliest scientific ones among agricultural societies in Korea. Before liberation from the Japanese colonial rule there were a few scientific societies for Japanese scientists only in the Korean Peninsula. It seemed that there was a single exception, in medical field, formed by and operated for Korean ethnics. Right after the liberation, Korean scientists rushed to form new scientific societies in the fields of mechanical engineering, architecture, textile, internal medicine, biology, etc. in 1945, mathematics, chemistry, metallurgy, etc. in 1946, and so on. But agricultural scientists had to wait for more time before setting up their own scientific society, Korean Agricultural Society(韓國農學會), comprising all agricultural subfields, in 1954. They had annual meetings and published their own journal every year until 1962. Then those working in the plant protection field established their own KSPP, right after their section meeting in 1962. At that time the total number of participants for KSPP were only around 50. KSPP scientists were interested in plant pathology, agricultural chemicals, weed science, or bioclimate, besides entomology. They had annual meetings once or twice a year until 1987 and published their own journal, Korean Journal of Plant Protection (KJPP), once a year at the earlier years but soon gradually increasing the frequency to four times a year later. Articles on entomology and plant pathology occupied about 40% each, but the number of oral or posters were a little bit higher on plant pathology than entomology, with the rest on nematology, agricultural chemicals, or soil microarthropods. There also had a number of symposia and special lectures. The presidentship lasted for two years and most of president served only one term, except for the first two. The current president should be $28^{th}$. In the year 1988, KSPP had to be transformed into the applied entomology society, Korean Society of Applied Entomology (KSAE), because most of plant pathologists participating left the society to set up their own one, Korean Society of Plant Pathology in 1984. Since that time the Society concentrates on entomology, basic and applied, with some notes on nematology, acarology, soil microarthropods, agricultural chemicals, etc. The Society has been hosting annual meetings at least twice a year with special lectures and symposia, from time to time, on various topics. It also hosted international symposia including binational scientific meetings twice with two different Japanese (applied entomology in 2003 and acarology in 2009) societies and the Asia-Pacific Congress of Entomology in 2005. The regular society meeting of this year, 2011, turns out to be the 43rd and this autumn non-regular meeting would be the 42nd. It has been publishing two different scientific journals, Korean Journal of Applied Entomology (KJAE) since 1988 and the Journal of Asia-Pacific Entomology (JAPE) since 1998. Both journals are published 4 times a year, with articles written in Korean or English in the first, but those in English only in the latter with cooperation from the Taiwan Entomological Society and the Malaysian Plant Protection Society since 2008. It is now enlisted as one of those SCI(science citation index) extended. The highest number of topics discussed at their annual meetings was on ecology, behavior, and host resistance. But at the annual meetings jointly with the Korean Society of Entomology, members were more interested in basic aspects, instead of applied aspects, such as physiology and molecular biology fields. Among those societies related to entomology and plant protection, plant pathology, pesticide, and applied entomology societies are almost similar in membership, but entomology and plant pathology societies are publishing more number of articles than any others. The Society is running beautifully, but there are a few points to be made for further improvement. First, the articles or posters should be correctly categorized on the journals or proceedings. It may be a good idea to ask members to give their own version of correct category for their submissions, either oral or poster or written publication. The category should be classified detailed as much as possible (one kind of example would be systematics, morphology, evolution, ecology, behavior, host preference or resistance, physiology, anatomy, chemical ecology, molecular biology, pathology, chemical control, insecticides, insecticide resistance, biocontrol, biorational control, natural enemies, agricultural pest, forest pest, medical pest, etc.) and such scheme should be given to members beforehand. The members should give one or two, first and second, choices when submitting, if they want. Then the categories might be combined or grouped during editing for optimal arrangement for journals or proceedings. Secondly the journals should carry complete content of the particular year and author index at the last issue of that year. I would also like to have other information, such as awards and awardees in handy way. I could not find any document for listing awards. Such information or article categorization may be assigned to one of the vice presidents. I would rather strongly recommend that the society should give more time and energy on archive management to keep better and more correct history records.

A Study on the Meaning and Types of Banpo [斑布] during the Joseon Dynasty (조선시대 반포(斑布)의 의미와 형식 연구)

  • Ree, Jiwon
    • Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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    • v.53 no.3
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    • pp.164-183
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    • 2020
  • In the textile culture of the Joseon Dynasty, the historic record of Banpo is fragmentary and contains many missing details. The main reason is a lack of associated literature, and it is also significant that the actual substance used is not clear at present. Banpo is a kind of cotton, but this has not been confirmed in the traditional textiles that are currently handed down. The word Ban [斑] in Banpo means "stain", and the letter Po [布] means "fabric". At the border of white discourse, Banpo did not receive attention as a research topic. This study is an attempt to restore some of the textile culture of the Joseon Dynasty through Banpo. Banpo is not just limited to the Joseon Dynasty; it is an important material for examining the development of textile culture and exchange in East Asia. This study was broadly divided into three parts. First, the record and meaning of Banpo during the Joseon Dynasty were examined. Records of Banpo can be seen from the early Joseon period during King Sejo and Seongjong, and the production and actual use of Banpo have been confirmed. Banpo was maintained until the beginning of the 20th century, but is no longer observed. Banpo is a woven fabric made of cotton yarn dyed in many colors and has appeared in Southeast Asia since ancient times. In East Asia, there are other fabrics similar to Banpo, such as Ho [縞], Sum [纖], and Chim [綅]. In particular, the correlation between Banpo and Ho is an important link in understanding Banpo in the Joseon Dynasty. Second, the meaning of Banpo was examined from various angles through comprehensive analysis of Chinese and Japanese literature records and cases. The appearance and development of Banpo moved in sync with the period when cotton was introduced into East Asia. In East Asia, cotton was introduced and produced in earnest from the end of the Song Dynasty to the beginning of the Yuan Dynasty, and the meaning of Banpo was diversified. In China, the name of Banpo was changed to Hwapo [花布], Gizapo [碁子布], Gizahwapo [棋子花布], etc. Japan was late to introduce cotton and developed it in acceptance of the changed meaning. In Japan, use of the name Banpo is not on record, but a Ryujo [柳條] fabric of the same type as banpo has been identified. This Ryujo is the same concept as Ho and Hwapo, and later merged into Ho. Names such as Ho, Hwapo, Banpo, etc. were used differently in each country, but the form was shared across East Asia. Third, based on the meaning of Banpo shared in East Asia, the format of Banpo in the Joseon Dynasty was classified. The format of Banpo in the Joseon Dynasty can be divided into grid and striped versions. The name Banpo disappeared over time, but the form remained and was passed down until recently. I hope that this study will help restore Banpo in the future.

Analysis of the Aesthetics of the Human Body Portrayed in Front Cover of Women's Magazines Prior to 1945 (1945년 이전 여성잡지 표지화에 나타난 인체미 분석)

  • Lee, Soon-Jae
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.30 no.12 s.159
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    • pp.1737-1746
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    • 2006
  • The purpose of this study is to present a concrete image of the ideal beauty as shown in era preceding 1945 that effects the shaping of our aesthetic values; by analyzing its characteristics through the covers of women's magazines of that period, this research aims to promote the understanding of beauty of the human body. The scope of my research extends throughout the collection of women's magazines stored in the National Library and the Korea Magazine Information Center. The gathered research materials are: 5 kinds of Shin-Yeo-Sung (신여성), 51 kinds Yeo-Sung(여성) and 30 kinds of Ga-Jung-Ji-Woo(가정지우). The result of the research could be summarized as the followings. Before the 1920's in response to the violent opening, there was a trend of sticking to the traditional standard. In the 1920's, the prevalent images of women were meek and fragile. Japanese standard of beauty was explicitly indicated. In the 1930s, as Western movies started to be shown to the general public, western features were idealized and furthermore intelligence was required as a further condition. In the 1940s, preparation of the war led to encouragement of images of motherhood and natural beauty, and resistant to this trend led to pseudoclassicism.

A Study on Korean Twill Fabrics in the 17th Century (17세기 한국 능(綾)직물 연구)

  • Cho, Hyo-Sook;Lee, Eunjin
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.63 no.4
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    • pp.56-69
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    • 2013
  • This study studies the fabrics from excavated 17th century tombs of Mrs. Min from Yeoheung family(1586~1656), Yeo-on Kim(1596~1665) and Won-rip Choi(1618~1690) and attempts to clarify the relationship between the fashion trend in fabrics of those times and the background behind it by viewing and examining the proportion of twill fabrics to the total silk fabrics and the characteristics of its weave and patterns. Looking into fabrics from the above tombs, twill fabrics accounted for 10.4%(13 pieces) 19.3%(16 pieces) and 9.2%(9 pieces) of total silk fabrics in each of the respective tombs. This forms a remarkable contrast with the fact that there was only one piece of twill silk fabrics(0.5%) and not any from the 16th century tombs of Mrs. Yoon from Papyeong family (0.5%) and Soo-ryoon Sim(0%). In particular, the percentage of hwamun-neung(patterned twill fabrics) in each of the tombs is 8.0%(10 pieces), 13.3%(11 pieces), 9.2%(9 pieces), which is much higher than that of non-patterned one. This is common to the twill fabrics from above three 17th century tombs. Patterns of hwamun-neung(patterned twill), simplified small flower patterns or geometrical figures, from the three excavated tombs are mostly arranged sporadically with blank space. It is supposed that these figurative characteristics reflected the aesthetic sense of the gentry at that time which valued simplicity and moderation for their Confucian standard. This phenomenon of increased use and production of twill fabrics in the 17th century resulted from different factors such as wars like Japanese Invasion of Korea(1592~1598), economic difficulty, government regulations against the production of high-class fabrics, development of weaving skill and its fixation, changes of fabric production environments, and changes of aesthetic sense preferring naive and moderate things to showy ones. As for the weaving characteristics of twill fabrics from the three 17th century tombs 3 leaf warp-faced twill was often used for the ground texture and 4 leaf warp-faced one was occasionally used. For pattern texture 6 leaf weft-faced twill was frequently used, 4 leaf weft-faced twill and 3 leaf weft-faced twill were used at times, and floating one was occasionally used as well.

Main Features of Leather Armor from the Joseon Dynasty in the National Museum of Korea (국립중앙박물관 소장 조선시대 피갑(皮甲)의 특징에 관한 고찰)

  • Hwang, Jinyoung
    • Conservation Science in Museum
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    • v.20
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    • pp.61-76
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    • 2018
  • The National Museum of Korea conducted conservation treatmenton the armor in its collection for the purposes of public display and appropriate preservation. This was preceded by a literature study on the types and features of the armor in order to collect basic data for secure and accurate conservation treatment. The literature study found that during the Joseon dynasty, armor was named in reflection of precise details including the color, material, status of the wearer, and even the certain parts of a suit of armor. In general, the name of armor includes the details in the order of color, underlying textile, and scale material (e.g., iron, leather). The former part of the name presents the features of the garment and the latter part refers to the material of the scales or the status of the wearer. The study also found that main materials used in armor include textiles, leather, and metal, and armor can be classified by the materials of the scales-e.g., metal armor (鐵甲), leather armor (皮甲), paper armor (紙甲), paper-and-fabric armor (淹心甲), silk armor (緞甲). Joseon-period armor can also be classified into four types according to its structure and the method of wearing, and overcoat(袍)-style armor was the most widely used in the period following the Japanese Invasion of Joseon (1592-1598) through the late nineteenth~early twentieth century. Overcoat-style armor was commonly worn by infantry, and the four examples of armor with leather scales at the National Museum of Korea belong to this category.

The Production, the Use, the Number of Workers and Exposure Level of Asbestos in Korea (우리나라의 석면 생산과 사용 및 근로자 수와 노출농도의 변화)

  • Choi, Jung Keun;Paek, Do Myung;Paik, Nam Won
    • Journal of Korean Society of Occupational and Environmental Hygiene
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    • v.8 no.2
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    • pp.242-253
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    • 1998
  • South Korea has been producing asbestos over 60 years. The use of asbestos was over 50 years for production of asbestos slate and 27 years for asbestos friction materials including asbestos textile and brake-lining. Thus, it can be supposed that asbestos related diseases such as asbestosis, lung cancer and mesothelioma could be found in the vulnerable workers exposed to asbestos in 1955-1975, given the average latency period of 10-30 years. Asbestos was produced primarily by Japanese during World War II In Korea. The production of chrysotile peaked to 4,815 tons in 1944. From 1978 to 1984, 10,000 tons of asbestos were produced annually. However, the production was interrupted by raising labor costs and extinction of mine reserves, and finally they had to depend on import for the need of asbestos. In 1945, there were 16 asbestos mines, in total, with the addition of new asbestos mines in South Korea. Imports of asbestos was increased from 74,000 tons to 95,000 tons during the period of 1976 - 1992. But the imports was reduced to 88,000 tons in 1995. Since, in addition to the import of asbestos itself, the imports of asbestos products were increased as well and the accumulation of asbestos reached to 30,000 tons during the period of 1964 to 1993. In 1965, there was only one asbestos company with 207 employees. But the size of asbestos industry has been expanded so much that 118 asbestos companies could be found in 1993 with 1,476 workers. However, there was no record on the survey of asbestos concentration to which workers were exposed in any companies in 1983. The record of the air-borne concentration of the asbestos in textile working places in 1984 showed 6.7 fibers/cc by geometric mean(GM), but it was reduced to 1.2 fibers/cc in 1993. GMs of asbestos in working places for construction materials and asbestos textiles were also decreased from 1.7 fibers/cc to 0.55 fibers/cc during the period of 1984 - 1996.

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A study on the process of spatial reduction of cotton culture in Korea since 1945 (해방 이후 우리나라 면작농업 소멸의 지역적 전개과정)

  • ;Kim, Kihyuk
    • Journal of the Korean Geographical Society
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    • v.29 no.3
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    • pp.318-339
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    • 1994
  • U.S. had given large amount of cotton to Korea as food aid program since 1945. This cotton aid had negative impact on cotton culture in Korean agriculture. Korean government used counterparts funds (sale proceeds of food aid) not for investment to agriculture sector, but for military budgets. And food aid on program type had influenced general economic policies, which neglected agricultural sector too. Anti-agricultural policy which was helped by U.S. food aid, had caused cotton cultivator an economic loss. So this economic loss had made many farmers abandon cotton culture. But in our times, cotton is cultivated for the purpose of domestic consumption in a few rural villages. The purposes of this study are 1) to analyze the process of spatial reduction of cotton culture since 1945 in regional contexts in Korea, and 2) to identify the function and meaning of cotton culture which does not pay off in agricultural region. Materials for acreage of cotton culture are acquired through the agricultural statistical year book(1952-1989) and census. To clarify the meanings of cotton culture, field survey are conducted in a rural village which is identified as only one where cotton was cultivated in 1993. In these contexts, this study has come to the following conclusions. In the period of under the rule of Japanese Imperialism (1910-1945), G. arboreum, species of cotton which was traditionally cultivated since 1364, had been driven out. And G. hirustun species, which is suitable for the production of highly qualified textile, has been hierarchically diffused by policy. In these period, regional structure of Korean agriculture was reorganized for the provision with food to Japan. Crops leading this dependent spatial structure were rice and cotton. So agricultural region, specialized with cotton, were distributed in the hinterland of the area which is specialized with rice. U.S. cotton aid to Korea began in 1947. U.S. took an interest in agricultural export because of her domestic surplus of cotton. Cotton aid is one mechanism by which U.S government developed agricultural market in recipient countries, Specially in the exchange rates, up-valuation of won to the U.S. dollars made domestic cotton more expensive than cotton imported, Production cost of domestic cotton is higher than Government's purchasing price of cotton which was also more expensive than price of cotton imported. Korean farmer could not help abandoning the cultivation of cotton, and this gave rise to spatial reduction of cotton culture. Spatially, cotton culture was abandoned in early stage of reduction in regions where stand at a disadvantage climatically, and in next stage in regions where other up-land crops which paid off in urban market, eg, fruits, could be cultivated. In the stage of extinction, cotton was cultivated only in area where G. hirustun species was originated in Korean peninsula. This region is not only suitable climatically for cotton culture, but is far away from urban market. Use of cotton produced is not for spinning, but for fillings of comforter. The main purpose of cotton culture in rural village is not for cotton yields, but for increase of production of seasame, which is grown together with cotton as mixed crops. Cotton product are used for domestic consumption and sold out to gin house. Though cotton culture is not paid off, farmer wanted to cultivate continuously for the cultural purpose, and they wanted the cotton culture promotion policy with the goverment subsidy.

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Spatial Structure of Hinterlands and Forelands of Pusan Container Export Port: the Cases of 3 National Flag Carriers (부산 컨테이너 수출항의 배후지와 지향지의 공간구조)

  • Cho, Su-Kyung
    • Journal of the Korean Geographical Society
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    • v.28 no.3
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    • pp.247-267
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    • 1993
  • According to developing international economy since the World War II, the increase and competition of the national business is so empha-sized tht both the interest and the necessity about marine transportation playing the impor-thant role of international transportation are increased. Today, the container transportation, as called the innovation of marine transport has been prevailed since the 1970's. The purpose of this paper is to grasp the spatial structure of the hinterlands and forelands, its object is export container cargo at Pusan Export Port, as known for the transportation node of modern containerlization. In this study, for the purpose of grasping the relation between hinterlands and forelands of Korean export container cargo, first, I researched the transition of carloading about container cargo, the bistribution channel of cargo, the change of the items of container and the carlo-adings about transport route, secondly, I used the cluster analysis so as to group hinterlands according to the items of goods and forelands. The object of the analysis is container cargo of Choyang Line, Hanjin Shipping and Hyundai Merchant Marine of National Frag Carriers. The source materials used in this study are Trucking Data of Hanjin Co., Container Ren-tal Data of Samik Transport Co. and Transpor-ting Present Condition Tables of Hyundai Mer-chant Marine. 1. There are two kinds of the transport classi-fied by its form: FCL and LCL. In Pusan Con-tainer Export, a lot of textile goods, clothings and furniture, compound, electric goods, and so on are dealed with but the rate of occupation of the transport is getting lower while that of occupation of equipment, papers and agricultu-ral, mineral and livestock industry higher. 2. In 1990, the transports of container cargo in Korea consist of 7 services and round-the world lines. We can list North America lines, East-South Asian lines, Japan lines and Inter European lines, in order of the quantity of tran-sport form the largest to the smaller. We can have another list that Japan lines, North Ame-rica lines and East-South lines in order of the rate participation of national flag carriers, be-cacuse Korean foreign trade lay disproportionate emphasis on East-South Asian lines. Japan lines among them is the biggest import-export market. Since the rationlization policy of marine tran-sport in 1984, each of national flag carriers have its own lines. Hanjin Shipping predominates over North America lines, Choyang Line over New Zealand, Inter European and Austria lines and Hyundai Merchant Marine over Center-South America lines, in terms of the volume of transport. And small-to-medium sized shippers are prevailing in lines which are adjacent to Korea, Such as Japan lines and East-South Asian lines. 3. In relation to hinterlands and forelands of Choyang Line, the light industry goods, electric goods and machinary produced in Seoul and Pusan are exported to the major ports in Europe and Japan, the same produces in Suwon, Ulsan, Kumi are exported to European Ports, and those in Incheon and Kwangju Austrian and Japanese ports, and those in the rest regions to the major port in Japan. 4. In relation to hinterlands and forelands of Hanjin Shipping, the light industry goods pro-ducing in Seoul and Pusan, the electric goods and machinary in Incheon and Pyeongteck, are exported to New York and Los Angeles. Electric goods and machinary Masan, Anyang, Cheona, Cheongju and Incheon, Electric goods machinary and light industry goods in Kwangju and non mental goods in Pohang, are exported New York, Los Angeles and Oakland. 5. In relation to hinterlands and forelands of Hyundai Merchant Marine, the region of Seoul, Pusan and Incheon closely related with the main ports in U.S.A. The rest regions with Montreal. The hinterlands of export container cargo can be classified by its export items into three kinds: the large city, industrial city and the rest city. Choyang Line's forelands are European lines, Japan lines and Austria lines, and Hanjin Shipping's forelands are North America lines, and Hyundai Merchant Marine's forelands are North America lines and Japan line. 3 National flag carriers' major forelands are determined by the size of port and the shipper's convenient use of the port terminal.

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Modern Enterprise & ESG Management philosophy of Gaeseong Ginseng Merchant (개성 인삼상인의 근대기업화와 ESG 경영이념)

  • Ock, Soon Jong
    • Journal of Ginseng Culture
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    • v.3
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    • pp.90-118
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    • 2021
  • Gaeseong fostered the conditions necessary for modern capitalism, as huge capital was accumulated through the cultivation and trade of ginseng, which were activities that flourished in the 18th century. During the Japanese colonial era, ginseng merchants were not simply limited to acquiring landowner capital from ginseng trade but actively converted such resource to productive and financial capital, thereby becoming modern entrepreneurs. Ginseng merchants led the joint management and investment of Gaeseong Electric Co., Ltd., Daehan Cheonil Bank, Gaeseong Brewing Co., Ltd., and Songgo Textile Company, founded in the early 20th century. They pursued corporate profits and, as leading individuals of society, spearheaded regional development by supporting educational and cultural projects in Gaeseong. These projects included the establishment of the Gaeseong Commercial School, the publication of Goryeo Times, and the operation of the Gaeseong Jwa Theater. Although liberal economics prioritized shareholder interest, the 21st century witnessed an emphasis on social responsibility among stakeholders asthe major purpose of enterprises. A trend that emerged was ESG (environment, social, governance) management, in which non-financial factors are valued more highly than financial performance. A successful business, which was denoted only by high profits in the past, is now defined by whether a company fulfills its social responsibility. In the early 20th century, the corporate activities of ginseng merchants in Gaeseong reflected entrepreneurship and stakeholder-centered ESG management, which later emerged as essential elements of modern business management. The modern management philosophy ahead of its times stemmed from the regionality of Gaeseong. The political discrimination against Gaeseong residents in the Joseon Dynasty precluded them from becoming government officers, and under a strict social hierarchy, yangban ("noblemen"), the intellectuals of the Joseon Dynasty, were forced to serve as merchants. Son Bong-sang and Kong Seong-hak, aside from being representative ginseng merchants, were both Confucian scholars and writers. The second and third generations of ginseng merchant families who had received higher education abroad returned to Gaeseong to carry on with their family businesses, then established modern companies with capital accrued from the ginseng industry. An analysis of the commercial activities of ginseng merchants in the early 20th century confirmed that these individuals were pioneering entrepreneurs who adopted the ESG management philosophy. In ginseng merchants, one sees a dimension of capitalism with a human face, as with ginseng thatsaves human life.