• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.7
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• pp.45-52
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• 2007

This study is based on the observation of women's Jangui in 17th centuries. As we observed, Jangui in seventeenth century was shown the same style. They were not headdress but coat. The characteristics of shape are Mokpankit, double-seop, straight sleeve, triangle moo, sam-su(which is attached to the end of sleeves) and a little coat string etc. There is no specific mode difference with the change of times. However, the straight sleeve is shown straight line in the early Chosun dynasty. Jangui in seventeen century are all oblique line sleeve except Jangui of Jin-ju Ha's family. Jangui put on coat do not seem clear-cut difference with the change of times. From Jangui of Yang-chun Hu's family in 14th centuries till An-dong Kim's family, the special features of Jangui are the same style. In addition, The double-seop in 17th centuries was not completely symmetry. However, after 19th centuries, Jangui for headdress was shown perfectly symmetry.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.25 no.6
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• pp.847-861
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• 2017

As the excavated costumes from the unknown tomb of the Joseon Dynasty were unearthed, estimating the age of the costumes became very important. This research investigat and estimates the age of the excavated costumes from Couple's Tomb for Lee General in Seosan, Chung-nam. By inspecting and analyzing the costumes, the features can be compared with other similar costumes that have been excavated from other tombs. The result of this study is as follows: First, the period with dopo, cheol-rik, jungchimak, and baji for females among the relics of General Lee can be estimated. For dopo, there are morphometric features such as the shape of moo; for cheol-rik, there is a ratio of top and bottom; for jungchimak, there is a ratio of width of arm and skit and a ratio of side tim, total length, etc. By comparing relics of same period, it can be estimated to be from the late 16 century around the Japanese invasion of Korea to the early 17 century. Second, the period with jangui and jeogori among the relics of Couple's Tomb for General Lee can be estimated. By comparing jangui with the arm and width of sleeves, and by comparing jeogori and the shape of the collar, arm, length, etc., with other relics identical to the period, it can be estimated to be from the late 16 century around the Japanese invasion of Korea, which is a similar date to the one with the husband to the early 17 century.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.5
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• pp.129-144
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• 2002

Kyung(경, 경의), Which is Wedding ceremonial head dress, Veil. Ancient China, When dynasty is changing, wedding head dress form is different. Old china, Kyung(경) was sleeves attached dress form. But, after Dang(당) and Song(송) Dynasty changed square formed clothes, which is put on from head to the shoulder, and another is sleeves attached dress form. Ancient Korea have been face covered clothes. Myunuei(면의). from Buyo(부여) to the south Silla(남국신라) Dynasty. Koryo(고려) dynasty. likeness of the Song Dynasty square formed head wear, Mongsu(몽수), and Kedu(개두). When Chosun(조선) Dynasty, Kyunguei(경의), which was square formed 12 chuk size head wear of the blue colored veil. When King and Queen finished wedding ceremony in the another palace, Queen following the King, so to the palace. who put on the wedding veil, Kyungui(경의) , in the papanquin. and take out of the veil by another mother. before the hapkun(합근) ceremony. also Chosun dynasty has been another Queen's wedding ceremonial veil 'myunui (면의)'. It has been put on the head dress with ceremonial dress Juckui(적의) . And, take out of the veil by another mother, before the hapkun(합근) ceremony. also. common people has been put on the head dress with ceremonial dress Youmui(염의). And. take out of the veil by another mother. before the hapkun(합근) ceremony. also common people has been put on the Mongsuui(몽수의,장의). head dress with ceremonial dress round neck dress. And, take out of the veil by another mother, before the hapkun(합근) ceremony.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.4
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• pp.149-162
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• 2003

This study is designed for examining the names of men's and women's clothing of Choseon period, which can be divided into the upper, the lower, and the outer garments based on yu유, go고, po포 from the early period. Furthermore, amongst these various garments, this study shall define some kinds of clothing, which is shared its name and its use by both men and women, as the unisex clothing. Lastly we analyzed the special characteristics of this unisex clothing. With the names of clothing in Choseon period, we could understand about the difference of clothing's development by the names for the upper, lower, and outer garments as gender. And we also found the names for the unisex clothing in that period. The names of unisex clothing in Choseon period can roughly be divided into three garments; the upper, the lower, and the outer. Each category can also be subdivided into tku: i. e. the upper garments into jeogori저고리, hansam한삼, sama 삼아, jeoksam적삼, donguidae동의대, and godo고도; the lower garments into go고, gonja고자, and baji[paji파지, pachi파저］; and the outer garments into jangui장의, baeja배자, and juui주의. Furthermore, we can recognize that the shapes and uses of clothes in that period had been represented differently between the men's and women's.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.25 no.2
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• pp.197-205
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• 2001

It is possible to examine the costume of Chosun era that tombs excavated in chonnam area, have contained various kinds of clothes. There are six tombs in which costumes have been excavated in Chonnam provinces. One(Go un) is tomb of the early years of Chosun Dynasty and the other tombs is those of the middle years of Chosun Dynasty(16∼17 century). There were many kinds of Po which was called Jickryung, Danryung, Chullik, Dappo, Jangui, So-changui etc, and contained chechori, skirts, under-trousers in tombs. But there are not see Kuui, Dopo that excavated in other area. Chullik showed the features of winkle, sleeves and the ratio of length. Dappo was only to be seen in a Go uns grave. Mens chechori collar(kit) was called Mokpankit in all, and womans chechori collar was called Kalkit or Tangkokit. The length of chechori was different according to the times. Most trousers are types of underwear and also there are Sapok tousers, open trousers. The characterstics of excavated costumes are not regional feature but trend of the times. The costumes excavated in Chonnam area are similiar to those excavated in other area at the same times.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.4
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• pp.113-129
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• 2003

This study examined textiles used for the ancient costumes that are excavated from tombs of the Chosun dynasty, focusing especially on Po(overcoat). The result of the study is that silk occupies 79.8% of all the textiles used for Po, and cotton and linen follow. The weaving method of silk was primarily plain and satin weaves. However the use of twill, gauze, and double weave, that had led weaving methods of silk during the Koryo dynasty, are considerably decreased in Chosun dynasty. Danlyeong(단령) and Cheollik(첩리) had been made of various textile fabrics like cotton, linen, silk and blended fabric before Imjinwaeran(임진왜란). After the war, they were simplified in gauze weaved silk or satin weaved silk, And also patterned fabric were widely used for them than other Po. Simple fabrics like cotton, linen and plain weaved silk had been used for Aekjureum(액주름) and Jiklyeong(직령) before Imjinwaeran. After the war, Jiklyeong was used as underwears of Danlyeong, so it was made of high quality patterned silk. Dopo(도포) and Changuiryu(창의류) were mainly excavated from tombs after the war, high quality plain weaved silk are used than gorgeous Patterned silk. For the Dopho(답호) and Bansuui(반수의), before the war, they were made with various textiles such as plain weaved silk, twill weaved silk, satin weaved silk, cotton, linen, and blended fabric. But after the war plain weave was mainly used. In Jangui(장의), since it was mostly for women, many kinds of women's patterned silk were used in than any other Po. There were only a few excavation of Simui(심의) and most of them were made of ramie and were hemmed in black satin without pattern.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.10 no.5
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• pp.762-770
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to examine of the flower patterned fabrics used for the Shrouds during 15~18th century in Chosun Dynasty. The Shrouds at that time could be classified by the garments for the dead(殮襲衣) and the utensils used in religious services(殮襲諸具). And we looked into the types and the compounding methods of the flower pattern used for the utensils used in religious services(殮襲諸具) as well as the Shrouds accounting to the uses. Results of this study are as follows. 1) The flower patterned fabrics weaved as the uses of the garments for the dead(殮襲衣), item by item, were divided into the upper garment, the lower garment and men's Po(coat). 2) Seeing Jeogori, mixed various flower patterned fabrics, among the upper garment, there were focused on the various good meanings such as longevity, integrity and prosperity etc. 3) The flower patterns in men's Po(coat) were used a lot in Jangui and Dahnryoung. Cheollik, Dappo, Jeonbok, etc made of the flower patterned fabrics, were of small number but we can feel an aesthetic sense of men at that time. 4) The flower patterned fabrics weaved the lower garments, were used much more in the skirts than in the trousers, for reasons of the wrapping a dead body. 5) Seeing the flower pattern used the utensils used in religious services(殮襲諸具), the pattern of Lotus and Arabesque, among the types of flower pattern, had a majority.