• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.41-57
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• 2006

The purpose of this study were to provide dress forms and men's jacket blocks based on the analysis of their somatotype. As the result of the previous research, based on 1290 males of 20 to 54 year-old, the shapes of adult male were 20 and each body shape was classified by size factor, height and chest girth and master size was selected considering appearance frequency. Somatotype YS(master size: height 170cm, chest girth 91cm) and HD1(master size: height 170cm, chest girth 94cm) were selected to develop dress forms and men's jacket block in the study. The procedure and results were follows; 1. The dress forms of somatotype YS and HD1 were provide base on means of 61 body measurements and cross sections of shoulder, chest, waist, hip of subjects belong to each somatotype. 2. New men's jacket blocks of somatotype YS and HD1 were developed based on the body surface extracted by draping and the result of comparative investigation on the conventional jacket patterns by wearing test. Also the drafting methods of new men's jacket blocks were provided. 3. Wearing test by the sensory evaluation showed that the developed jacket blocks were estimated more highly than existing patterns.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50 no.7
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• pp.155-163
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• 2000

The objectives of this study were to examine how clothing design preference and clothing attitude vary according to gender of the aging. Using the data collected through interview with 200 subjects who were 60years of age and older residing at Kunsan city area in Korea. These data were analyzed by frequency and $\chi$$^2$-test. The tendency of the gender on jacket stymie preference showed that men liked the soutien collar jacket, two button sing1e Jacket, and four button double jacket, women liked two button single jacket, three button single Jacket and four button double jacket. The general preference did allot depend on the practical purchasing. Men preferred more the soutien collar jacket than the women. On the shirts pattern preference, men liked thick horizon and plaid pattern, while the women liked polk dots pattern and small flowered one. The practical clothing purchase was done by themselves directly. The important criteria depended on the appearance style like simple and smart. For the main complaining factor to purchase the clothes, men considered the color, and women complained not to have suitable shopping stores. The most of all complaining was the expensive prices.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.6
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• pp.131-140
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• 2004

The objectives of this study were to investigate the effect of the color of jacket. dress shirt, necktie. and perceiver's gender on image perceptions of male, and to examine how clothing color preferences varies according to perceiver's gender and age. The stimuli of 8 pictures of male and the semantic differential scale were used to evaluate image perception. Subjects were 192 males and females in Seoul. The colors of jacket gave significant influences on perception of potency. elegance, preference, and manliness. The colors of dress shirt gave a significant influence on perception of manliness, the necktie's colors gave influences on elegance and visibility. Perceiver's gender did not give significant influences on the image perception. Visibility had an interaction effect by the colors of jacket and dress shirt. Potency and preference evaluation had interaction effects by the colors of jacket. dress shirt. and necktie. White dress shirt had positive effects on the perception of potency and preference in the case of matching with dark blue jacket and red necktie, and blue shirt had a positive effect on the perception of potency and preference in matching with dark blue jacket and blue necktie. The preference of dark grey suit and black shirt showed significant differences according to gender. Dark blue suit, white shirt, and blue shirt had significant differences according to the age group.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.142-152
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• 2006

The purpose of the study was to demonstrate how to recreate Spencer jacket of Empire Style in an attempt to apply this historic style to theatrical costumes and other high fashion items in modern times. The study was carried out through 2 steps. First, Literature, films and other visual information were utilized in order to classify the designs of Spencer jacket. Second, Production of Spencer jacket using patterns shown in literatures and those commercially used and commercial patterns were investigated to find out design characteristics of jackets. Results and discussions are as follows: The results showed that Spencer jacket can be categorized into following three styles: (1) Jackets having front opening without button stands and standing collar, (2) Double breasted opening and notched collar, (3) Single breasted opening and flat collar with waist band. The characteristics of Spencer jacket design were as follows: (1) Short jacket length, (2) Armhole line moved inwards, (3) Long fit shaped puff sleeves, whose puff being distributed more heavily over back of the sleeve, (4) Diamond shaped back bodice, which are consisted with princess lines and shoulder lines moved backwards.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.151-167
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to find out comparison of preference style and wearing style of jacket by body perception and satisfaction. This research was done by a survey method. Descriptive Statistics, t-test, Pearson's Correlation, Coefficients MANOVA, Two-Way ANOVA and Duncan's test were used for data analysis. The results of this study are as follows. 1) The subjects were less satisfied with larger or thicker girth of upper body. The subjects were less satisfied with thicker upper arm, lower arm, waist and lower abdomen. The subjects were less satisfied with larger or thicker girth of lower body. The subjects were less satisfied with thicker hips, thighs, calves, ankles, and longer crotch length. 2) The subjects with the highest dissatisfaction about neck thickness and length prefer jacket with collar but wear jacket without cellar. The subjects with the smallest bust wear jacket with short lapel. The subjects with wider shoulder wear jacket with narrower shoulder width. The subjects with more dissatisfaction about shoulder incline wear raglan sleeve jacket. The subjects with wider hips wear hip line length jacket.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.14 no.6
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• pp.146-169
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• 2010

For the purpose to develop the pattern of a tailored jacket for the Chinese adult women, a drawing method for the pattern of a tailored jacket was selected with the style of 'on&on', a young and casual brand of Beaucre Merchandising Co., Ltd. that has been successful in the China market, and then the measures to be applied were set up by properly combining the body measures such as the mean, mode and median of the entire group from data measured from women of 18 to 24 years old in Shanghai, China in 2008 and the mean body measures of the body type A of 2008 classified by GB/T 1335.2-1997. The pattern of a tailored jacket developed was verified for feasibility based on a wearing test and then revised for the parts with low jacket ability in general including the bust circumference, waist circumference, hip circumference, shoulder, waist back length and back area. The final measures applied for the development of a tailored jacket were 160-165cm for the height, the bust circumference of 87.7cm, waist circumference of 69.6cm and hip circumference of 92.8cm for a jacket.

• Structural Engineering and Mechanics
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• v.83 no.1
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• pp.53-66
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• 2022

The main objective of the present research was investigating the effects of a floating wave barrier installed in front of an offshore jacket structure on the wave height, base shear, and overturning moment. A jacket model with the height of 4.55 m was fabricated and tested in the 402 m-long wave flume of NIMALA marine laboratory. The jacket was tested at the water depth of 4 m subjected to the random waves with a JONSWAP energy spectrum. Three input wave heights were chosen for the tests: 20 cm, 23 cm, and 28 cm. Two different cross sections with the same area were selected for the wave barrier: square and rhombus. Results showed that the average decrease in the jacket's base shear due to the presence of a floating wave barrier with square and rhombus cross section was 24.67% and 34.29%, respectively. The use of wave barriers with square and rhombus cross sections also resulted in 19.78% and 33.11% decrease in the jacket's overturning moment, respectively. Hence, it can be concluded that a floating wave barrier can significantly reduce the base shear and overturning moment in an offshore jacket structure; and a rhombus cross section is more effective than an equivalent square section.

• Steel and Composite Structures
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• v.45 no.1
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• pp.101-118
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• 2022

The seismic performance of the reinforced concrete (RC) special-shaped column to steel beam connections with steel jacket used in the RC column to steel beam fabricated frame structures was investigated in this study. The three full-scale specimens were subjected to cyclic loading. The failure mode, ultimate bearing capacity, shear strength capacity, stiffness degradation, energy dissipation capacity, and strain distribution of the specimens were studied by varying the steel jacket thickness parameters. Test results indicate that the RC special-shaped column to steel beam connection with steel jacket is reliable and has excellent seismic performance. The hysteresis curve is full and has excellent energy dissipation capacity. The thickness of the steel jacket is an important parameter affecting the seismic performance of the proposed connections, and the shear strength capacity, ductility, and initial stiffness of the specimens improve with the increase in the thickness of the steel jacket. The calculation formula for the shear strength capacity of RC special-shaped column to steel beam connections with steel jacket is proposed on the basis of the experimental results and numerical simulation analysis. The theoretical values of the formula are in good agreement with the experimental values.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.44 no.9
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• pp.31-39
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• 2006

This study was conducted to reproduce the two-piece sleeve pattern of the ladies' jacket of the 1890's for Korean women of the twenties who have the standard body type and the average size. Fourteen two-piece sleeve patterns of the ladies 'jacket of the 1890's were collected and drawn to actual size. The length and width proportion of the upper-sleeve and under-sleeve pattern of the ladies' jacket of the 1890's were similar to the two-piece sleeve pattern of jacket which we see now. The elbow line of the two-piece sleeve pattern of the ladies' jacket of the 1890's was lower than the two-piece sleeve of jacket of today. The cap of the sleeve of the ladies' jacket of the 1890's was gathered and this gave volume to the upper part of sleeve but the lower part of the sleeve was tight. The study pattern of two-piece sleeve pattern which had the characteristics of the sleeve pattern of the ladies' jacket of the 1890's was designed like for Korean women of the twenties who have the standard body type and the average size through modifications based on the evaluation of dressing on two occasions. The study pattern was evaluated to have the silhouette of the sleeve of the ladies' jacket of the 1890's and to fit Korean women of the twenties who have the standard body type and the average size with the sensory test.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.41 no.5
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• pp.193-203
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• 2003

Magoja is a jacket for men and women. Magoja was worn between the jacket, jogori and the coat durumagi; that is over the jacket and under the coat. In the 19th century, Daewon-kun, who was wearing maqua, was in China and he came back to Korea. So, it was believed that the origin of magoja was from maqua from Qing. But, there were differences between magoja and maqua in their design. Therefore, I researched the origin of magoja and tried to know the design and the method of wearing magoja in the Chosun dynasty. The results are as follows. The design of magoja, especially its collar, was different from Chinese maqua. As analyzed above, it is difficult to regard the origin of magoja as deriving from Daewon-kun's maqua, which he wore when he went to Qing. Magoja-style jacket can be found from many old pictures. The collar of those jacket, whose style was waonsam-git unlike the present-day magoja, is consistent with the collar of sagyusam or baeja. And this kind of git style had existed for a long period of time as already studied in bangryungbangbi. Furthermore, the origin of this kind of jacket dated back to the maeksu of the Sung Dynasty; maek meaning Koguryo, maeksu was understood to indicate the style of the Koguryo jacket of short sleeves for the convenience of horseback riding. Maeksu, which varied in its kind and style, had been used as the equestrian clothes in China and was assumed to be particularly put on widely during the Yuan and Sung Dynasties. Maeksu continued to exist as daegeumeui during the Ming Dynasty but, later called magua, it was worn more widely ding the Qing Dynasty of the Manchus. This kind of maeksu or magua was the jacket which could be put on the coat and this style of wearing it during the Chosun Dynasty could be confirmed by the pictures. Therefore, magoja is not the jacket which was all of sudden derived from Qing's magua but one of traditional Korean clothes of the northern provinces which had existed for a long period of time. And magoja seemed to be put on more widely during the latter part of the Chosun Dynasty because of the influence of Qing's magua.