• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.67 no.3
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• pp.66-80
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• 2017

The headdress is one of the most important clothing characters in China, as it was used to distinguish the 55 minority groups in China. Each minority group has a unique headdress culture. Among the 55 minority groups, the Zang, the Yi, and the Miao focus their ethnic costumes on the headdress, and have a more distinctive headdress culture compared to be other nationality groups. The Yi is one of the minority groups that linvd in Southwest China. They usually lived in compact communities in Sichuan, Yunnan, and Guizhou provinces, as well as the Guangxi Zhuang Autonomous region. The total population of the Yi is the sixth largest among the 55 minority groups. Modern scholars believe that the Yi people are descendants of the ancient Qiang people, which is a group that lived in Northwest China six or seven thousand years before. It is believed that the Qiang went down to the southern part of China and allied with the aboriginals in that region, and this group of people became the Yi, Due to its long history, cultural background, and the large number of people and settlements, they have produced a unique costume culture. The women's headdress culture is considered to be the one of the most important characteristics of their costume culture. There are four forming element of the Yi women's headdress, religious faith, myths, geographical distribution and customs & festivals. The first three elements play an important role in the protection and spread of headdress, while the fourth element provides potential for the modern headdress development. Because of much influence factors, more than 100 types of Yi women headdresses have developed. Depends on categories, Yi woman headdress can be divided into kerchief, hat, fascinator and other accessories wore on the hand. This study investigated the development of the Yi women's headwear, and screened and analyzed representative Yi women accessories, such as the headscarf, hat, and fascinator. This analysis will provide basic materials for further studies of Yi women's headdress or costume.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.6
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• pp.705-714
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• 2010

This study has the purpose of classifying the types of decoration techniques applied to the Korean traditional costume of modern style which are shown in relevant monthly magazines and analyzing the characteristics of the techniques. Findings of the study can be summarized as follows. The types of decoration techniques applied to the Korean traditional costume are classified into single and composite types according to decorative components. In the traditional costume of the former type, a quite many of gold and silver foils and embroideries are found. While, in that of the latter type, a combination of two different decorations, gold and silver foils and embroideries, embroideries and seonchigi or embroideries and stitches is usually used. These decoration techniques are usually applied to some parts of the costume like git, kkeutdong or cuffs, somae or sleeves, jacket or jeogori, the lower hem of the skirt and between joined parts in the skirt. More notably, Korean traditional costumes for women shown in monthly magazines released during the period as mentioned above were investigated to find that a part of the women's clothes, that is, skirt was in most cases decorated with brilliant embroideries. Used together with the techniques, patterns are usually applied onto embroideries and gold or silver foils. Most of the patterns are flower in shape. The main material of the Korean traditional costume is fabrics that have brilliant patterns on the surface and are commercially available irrespective of season. Consequently, since 2010, flower motive patterns which are important in modern fashion trend will be used in embroideries, gold and silver foils. Additionally, embroideries such as seakdong, applique, drawing made with modern style will be the main stream of new HanBok style.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.5 no.5
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• pp.481-494
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• 2003

The Gamrotenghwa of the Choson Dynasty is a unique genre of buddhist painting in that the destiny of the dead souls and the guidance to nirvana are expressed in reality. More than 50 of the Gamrotenghwa are known to be present, and the lower part of the paintings includes a wide assortment of folk customary scenes reflecting the social life style of the time when the painting was drawn, such as difficulties in life. public life, punishment and war. Changes in the costume of the people shown on the customary scenes of the Gamrotenghwa according to the time based changes in painting style were investigated in this study. The results are summarized in three points. First, the costumes of bureaucrats showed a tendency of preservation without any major changes in the painting. On the other hand, costumes of public and entertainer in the scenes were very close to those worn by the people at that time. The realistic description of public life in the painting may establish the value of the Gamrotenghwa as the historical documents. Second, the costume of the people in the painting showed a dual structure as the social positions; bureaucrats wore various official hats, large coats and belts to expose their social prestige. while the general public wore simple and convenient clothing which is divided into shirt and pants. The dual structure of the costume in the painting is in well accordance with that of the later period of Choson dynasty, suggesting that the customary scenes in the painting represent the social life style of the period. Finally, the customary scenes in the Gamrotenghwa are very variegated. which shows a variety of beauty of wearing even though they look coarse in a sense. The diversity of wearing beauty in the picture may contribute to the recreation of the beauty of shape in the new design of Hanbok.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.45
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• pp.133-146
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• 1999

Because adolescents are much inflicted with the sense of obsession in endless competition with their feers the costume of the pop singers relieving this agony and anxiety is becoming the object of immitation more than that of any oother entertainer. In this perspective it was thought that it was very necessary to attempt to investigate what relationship sense of mental anxiety the costume singers recently have worn had with adolescents sense of anxiety. The anxiety questionnaire used by Chu Young-sook and Kim Jung-hui and the questionnaire drawn up as the result- of the pilot-test and the pre-test were used and the questionnaires drawn up by a total of 228 middle schoolgirls in seoul were used a sfinal data of annalysis. Of them the anxiety questionnaire was made up of 8 sub-scales such as classic·social·morbid·learning examination·school record·poverty·war and other to anxieties. in order to survey the overall content concerning the costume of the singers preferred by teenagers the other questionnaire presented three vaiables such as musicality fashionability and dance as the distinct characteristics of singers and hiphop style tidy style and sexy style of clothing as the style of clothing preferred of singers' clothing. The importance fashionability and imitability of clothing were investigated as variables in relation to singers' clothing behavior. The SPSS PC+ program was used as the analytic method of data which were tested by the frequency analysis Duncan's multiple anaylsis of variance t-test and so on. As a result of investigation middle schoolgirls having a high level of learning and examinatior anxieties preferred the singers excellent in musicality while middle schoolgirls having a lower level of classic anxiety preferred the singers excellent in fashionability and dance wearing the hiphop style of clothing. And it was shown that middle schoolgirls having a lower level of classic anxiety preferred the singers wearing the clothing of sexy style. In the light of these results it was shown that there was the correlation between anxiety and clothing preference. Accordingly it is thought that the purpose of this study was achieved to some exent.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.9
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• pp.58-76
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• 2010

In this study, the shapes of po worn by military officers who served During the period of Japanese Invasion of Korea(1592-1598) were investigated. Findings of the study can be summarized as follows. Various types of po that military officers usually wore during the period of Japanese Invasion of Korea includes jikryeong, dapho, dopo, cheolik, aekjureum, jangeui, jungchimak and bangryeongpo. Out of these types, cheolik and jungchimak were most often used by the officers. Po that were usually worn by military officers during the period of Japanese Invasion of Korea as above mentioned is characterized as no difference in length between the front and back of the costume, kalgit and a pair of coat strings which are directly attached to po. The sleeves of the costume are bean chaff-shaped in some cases and just narrowly shaped in other cases. Similarly, the outer seop of po was either double-layered or single-layered. For jikryeong and dapho, mu is usually type of outside wrinkle. For dopo, its rear kit has the inner hem whose right and left edges are usually distant, respectively by 6~16cm, from the back center of the costume. Cheolik and aekjureum usually have either fine or broad pleats. For jangeui and jungchimak, mu is usually trapezoid in shape. Among various types of po which were usually worn by military officers during the period of Japanese Invasion of Korea, most representative are jikryeong from the tombs of Bae Cheon jo, dapho from Shin Yeo Gwan, dopo from general Bak and Bae Cheon Jo, cheolik from Nam Yoo and Cho Gyeong, aekjureum from Shin Yeo Gwan, jangeui from Kim Ham, jungchimak from Bae Cheon jo and bangryeongpo from Cho Gyeong.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.10
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• pp.38-50
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• 2009

Since Homeros in Greece, Mimesis was thought to be an art to imitate the nature, and it means an imitation of the nature classically. Mimetic theories were set to be a kind of art work in the era of Renaissance, and the terminology of mimesis was widely used to replace it with an originality in the 15th century. The purpose of this study is to understand the aesthetics of mimesis expressed in 2000s fashion. For this purpose, I investigated the theories of the mimesis, categorized the definition, then applied those categories for 2000s fashion. Documentary studies were conducted through aesthetics, fashion books and demonstrative studies were processed by analyzing photos from collection fashion magazines and fashion site of internet. In the history of aesthetics, the mimesis could be defined into three categories; the similarity and the representation mimesis, the symbol mimesis and the abstraction mimesis. In fashion, the representation mimesis included a natural and a folk, a period that of 1900s and ancient representation mimesis. The symbol mimesis included psychology and fear symbol mimesis. The abstraction mimesis included hard color, a geometric simplification and distortion mimesis. Analysis on the mimesis expressed in 2000s modern fashion may provide an excellent method for understanding human aesthetic in costume.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.45
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• pp.179-199
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• 1999

Indeterminancy is one of the thought systems which explains all things with not 'either-or' but 'both-and' the conditions and qualities of human identities and inner state. A view of the world of Dionisos of Nietzsche's and the character of Manneristic trend which has resolved the sense of alienation of men by paradoxic expression has succeeded to romanticism surrealism and postmodernism. 1. Cross-dressing has increased under contemporary conditions. There also have been various cross-dressing phenomena in the past but it appears strongly now that it would destroy the cultural stereotypes and give rise to the cultural insecurities in contemporary conditions. 2. The indeterminancy of status that is wealth versus poverty impacts on variations of contemporary dress. This has been represented by neglecting traditional code which is related to wealth in costume by conversion of the symbols of wealth and poverty as disguise with moderation simplicity and additionally poverty image instead of ostentation. 3. In the cultural aspect that is mother culture/ subculture the author has investigated black street fashion which has newly become visible. The black street fashion is wide spread in black popular music such as jazz Rhythm & Blues Reggae and Rap which is subculture against white. The external values of indeterminancy in fashion are n대-manneristic tendencies as deformation eclectic friction and irrational structure and graffiti method. The inner values by indeterminant expression in fashion are irony and paradox grotesque satire and amusement.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.2
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• pp.117-133
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• 2016

Fashion reflects various cultures, including the spirit and the lifestyle of the period. South Korea has experienced rapid social changes, including the Korean War, industrial development, and the inflow of Western influence. Modern Korean fashion has developed along with these changes. Acceptance of suits and the reformism of the Hanbok are the two notable changes in Korean fashion. Gyungja Choi, and her fashion show, is known for combining modern fashion and traditional beauty by entwining traditional Korean fashion design elements into modern fashion. This research investigated Gyungja Choi as a fashion designer, a fashion education executive who cultivated fashion designers through the education business, and a fashion publisher who published the first professional costume magazine. This research classified the Korean-style design elements in Gyungja Choi's fashion show by analyzing the clothes exhibited in her fashion shows. In conclusion, Choi's design utilized Korean-style fashion design elements, such as line, colors, patterns, and materials. Which can be said to be the introduction period that expressed Korean style image in fashion considering the period.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.18 no.6 s.91
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• pp.37-42
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• 2006

Researches to preserve and restore the remaining fabrics as costume heritages have been carried out. In this study, in order to artificially restore an excavated silk fabrics, degummed silk fabrics and safflower dyed silk fabrics were prepared for an experiment. These fabrics were photo-degraded by the Xenon arc beam to have various strength retention(100%, 80%, 60%, 40%, 20%). The fine structure and physical properties of Xenon arc treated fabrics were investigated with various techniques such as tensile test, weight loss, wide-angle X-ray diffraction, yellowness, color, SEM etc. Tensile strength and the crystal diffraction intensity of silk fabrics decreased as Xenon arc hem treatment time increased. Weight loss increased slightly. Strength retention was decreased as the Xenon arc beam treatment time goes by. (Yellowness of the undyed silk fabrics and $L^*$ of the dyed silk fabrics increased. Whiteness of the undyed silk fabrics and $b^* of the dyed silk fabrics decreased.) SEM results of the silk fabrics treated Xenon arc beam show that surface was a little damaged.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.20 no.2
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• pp.78-96
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• 2016

This study investigated the colors of the costumes and backgrounds of characters in the fantasy film, Alice in Wonderland(2010) by Tim Burton. The methods used were literature studies including related books, articles and internet materials, and positive research with DVD color analysis. Twenty-one scenes were selected by the researcher. Five scenes were selected from novel and film components representing, exposition, complication, crisis, climax, and denouement. After controlled pixel by photoshop program and the represented colors, hues and tones were analyzed. The results were as follows; First, in four characters, Alice's dress colors changed depend on the situation and the passage offered from blue to red, metal light, and blue green. The Mad Hatter's colors were orange with green which signified madness and passion. The Red Queen's red dress and blue make up represented countrified and evil. The White Queen's all white dress and hair, black eyes and vivid red meant purity and nobility. Similar characters' colors were limited. Second, the background colors, especially tones were an important component of the fantasy image. These were different for each type of scene in the film such as exposition, complication, crisis, climax, and denouement.