This study is about the similarities and the individualties of the traditional costumes in the ruling classes of Koguryo(高句麗), Bakjae(百濟), and Shilla(新羅). The analysis is based on the views of historical reformation on$\boxDr$Sam-gooksagi(三國史記)$\boxUl$Bongi(本紀). The costumes that were worn by the governing classes are categorized by the following, official duties, wars, ceremonies, and recreations(hunting). Up to the present time, there has been a great tendency to emphasize the similarities of the Three Kingdoms' costumes among most of academic researchers. However, the conceptions of individualities of the costumes among the Three Kingdoms were conceived by the facts that geological environments, political systems, social traditions, social aspects, and foreign affairs. The Three Kingdoms had different official rank systems along with official costume systems. Monopolization of official positions of the ruling parties tried to show their dignity and authority through styles of their costumes. The costumes of Koguryo were greatly differentiated by geographical regions ; One direct example is cheak of Pyoungyang and Anak regiona was named as official hats of rulling parties of Kokuryo. However, in this study, the cheak was viewed as a product of influences of Chinese costume. Further-more, the laguan was named as mooguan. Costumes of ceremonial occasions were heavily decorated to symbolize dignity and auth-ority. Metal ornament of headgear and belt, metal shoes were con-sidered as ceremonial costumes. the tight hunting costumes of Koguryo shown in mural pain-ting costumes of Koguryo shown in mural pain-tings were presumed to be spring and autumn clothing. Excavated from Neungasnlee, the hunting costumes inscribed in the gold incense burnner were confirmed as hunting costumes of Bakjae. The individuality of the costumes of the Three Kingdoms could also be supported by the fact that they had different climates. The temperature difference between Gipan region and Kyoungjoo(慶州) region was emphasized. Especially winter clothing would have had a big difference in style than the summer clothing. Through the research summarized above, this study was able to confirm that each of the Three Kingdoms had developed individualized costumes based on their geographical, cultural and environmental factors. Furthermore, through this study, it was possible to find out the difference as well as the similarities of their costumes according to each of their people's sociopolitical status, awareness of indepen-dence, andunique historical and traditional charactoristics.
Today's radical change of environment and technology spreaded high-technology art by cutting across a general idea of art, expressed machine aesthetic in fashion style by influencing materials and production processes of fashion. The purpose of this research is to take another look at the value and the importance of ornaments in terms of fashion design, to overcome the negative aspect of Technology Fashion by designing Retro Technology Fashion that harmonizes reason with sensibilities through floral patterns. The results of this study are as followings. 1. If Retro technology Fashion was analyzed by time and space element that are postmodernism techniques, there are Ethnic Technology Fashion that are based on space and historical Technology Fashion that are based on time. In terms of spare element, there is the hybrid of revival of exotic folklore with Technology fashion. In terms of time element, there is the hybrid of costumes of before 20th Century with Technology Fashion. It means unifying detail or silhouette of costumes of ancient time to modern time wit Technology Fashion. For another time element, the hybrid of retro fashion after 20th Century with Technology Fashion. The retro nostalgia is revived by the floral patterns or silhouette of Hippie fashion unified with Technology Fashion. 2. Based on above research, Retro Technology Fashion with floral pattern on CAD were designed. As the results, for Ethno Fashion that is spatial retro, 'Asian Technology fashion' was designed with bright colors, China collar that are oriental, and vinyl material. For historical Technology fashion that are based on time, 'Space Middle Age' was designed with tight silhouette, party colored pants and plastic material.
Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
/
2004.10a
/
pp.37-46
/
2004
'Fleeting fragrance: the history, preservation and display of perfumed clothes' Fragrance - like style - is one of the intangible aspects of costume history that we often wish had been preserved. Garments were perfumed both to impart a pleasurable impression and to mask disagreeable odors from use or from production processes such as tanning and dyeing. Expensive gloves were traditionally perfumed, as well as lace collars, silk stockings and shawls. Both historical and modern attempts have been made to create scents that please the wearer and attract the oppoiste sex, while (preferable) also repelling osquitoes and moths! Unintentional perfuming also occurred, which we sometimes may be lucky to find in our museum collections. How do we describe and identify the transient odors of museum objects, and at what cost can they be preserved and presented for the public? This lecture includes samples of reconstructed historical scents presented in costume exhibitions at the Royal Danish Collections.
The pre-treatment for conservation must be needed for the exhumed historic sites. So, the study of conservation and restoration of historical sites has progressed favorably with using various polymers for solving upper problems. The problems which should be essentially solved for conservation of the exhumed historic sites are, however, using reinforcing agents that don't impair their original forms and sorting reinforcing agents on the lines of the historic sites' soil. These agents should be able to use without the effect of outer environments like marsh, winter time or temperature. In this work, we synthesized Epoxy resin and Epoxy hardener for the restoration of historical sites. These products have very good tension strength and adhesion strength and various physical properties that the users want. Particularly, these epoxy with high viscosity have good separation of between Epoxy final product and Urethane pre-surface.
This thesis is designed to take a close look into the characteristics of architectural space through the standard of beauty, which has been created apart from our desires at certain cultural or historical periods of time. It will try to construct the outline of conception about the beauty throughout many centuries. First of all, contents of the research will focus on the aspects, which people have been considering as beauty eversince the ancient time without having any assumptions on its concept. For example, if the beauty of art has been accepted by the theories of modern aesthetics while degrading the beauty of nature, its value could have possibly been much more appreciated. The standard of beauty has been going through the process of change in such history of mankind. The general standard of beauty, which was established in the ancient time was the proportion and harmony between many elements. Afterwards, beauty was expressed as colors and light in medieval times. Expression of beauty using ugly features such as monsters or demons also existed at the time. Beauty has been periodically developing from supernatural to gracious, rational, noble, romantic, religious, mechanical, and today's media. The concept of beauty established from the above has been appearing throughout various culture such as dress and decoration at the given period of time. It would later affect the formation of space as well as decoration for architectures and styles. It will be analyzed throughout the five design elements; style, composition, materials, components, and form. The thesis would like to find the spatial order of beauty from the result of the analysis. The analysis will examine the possibility for which the recomposition of beauty will be provided as a design process for the new era. The Greek beauty represents a shape. The shape represents proportion and the proportion represents given numbers. However, beauty is being expressed by the opposite process at the present time. In other words, computers will arrange the numbers, which would formalize the proportion between the numbers. Beauty would be presented when the shape is presented as certain forms.
This study is an historical consideration about the modern discourse of Japanese spacial tradition driven from cultural background. The purpose of this study is to establish a cartographic map of historical progress, and to shed light on the forming of identity in Japanese traditional space design on the schizo-analytical aspect. It adopts F. Guattari's psychoanalytic theory to the structural analysis of Japanese traditional space design. The process of this study is illustrated as follows: At first, it mentions Guattari's theory of Mechanical Unconscious, Schizo-analysis, Cartography, and Abstract machine as theoretical background. And, it considers the identity of Japanese traditional space constructed by various cultural sign over a long period of time as the statement of apriority. Secondly, it clarifies semiologic generation of Japanese traditional space design based on the analysis of spacial morphemes about each design stemmed from modernization process of Japan. Thirdly, it ascertains semiologic topography the representamens draw, i.e. schizo-analytic cartography from synchronic and diachronic point of view. Fourthly, it analyses traditional discourse structure in terms of generative schizo-analysis and transformational schizo-analysis with four categories- object, style, concept, strategy. Through this process, it studies the reproduction of Japanese tradition in terms of the 'social organization', and explores the way vitalized on the space-time coordinate system by the schizo-analysis of the mechanical unconscious. In conclusion, it clarifies Generative-schizo is accomplished in the level of formulating representamen, and Transformational-Schizo involves experimental mind that induce implantation of the heteromorphic elements and avant-garde experiments of abstract mechanical operation in the schizo-analysis of Japanese traditional space design. The significance of this study is to arrange an opportunity of introspection on Korean-ness seriously from inspecting logic of Japan-ness closely in traditional space design.
Museum Architecture, passing through modem times, have been requested to make changes in order to respond to the necessities of current times as well, so that they come to develop various kinds of programs other than a mere exhibition. That is, museum began recognizing the diversity of activities available in the spaces and the openness to the public. And tried to keep up with the changes by linking the museum buildings with local community in urban architecture as a result. Conversion design is methodology aims at reforming old buildings into a museum or revitalizing buildings of historical significance into exhibition center, so that it made possible to utilize the texts of historical, cultural cities, which in turn contribute to the diversity of urban architecture and protection of buildings in environmental crisis. In the sense, the paper analyzes the life-long contribution and dedication of Carlo Scarpa, an Italian architect, in the conversion of museum architecture, and studies the style, techniques, and features witnessed from his architectural works, and finally offers an insight and a directing post to take advantage of diverse ways likely applicable in our urban architectures. Scarpa's features in his museum architecture are classified as follows: First, contrasting expression of reiteration and side by side to express the continuity of time Second, he conveyed implicated meanings through inserting contracted factors of the locality and traditionality. Third, his interest in formative works and handicraft had an influence on shaping conversion space Finally, expression of accidentally to change of a point of view.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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v.19
no.3
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pp.536-547
/
1995
The modernization of the fashion design in our country, like our chaotic modern history, has not been easy for us to grasp its main stream because it lacked historical consciousness and sincere attitude of creating. In trying to find out designs very Korean, designers usually ignore the deeply rooted ideologies and modes of our own, and primarily depend on the scattered fragments of tradition, such as the curled line of the ancient roofs, folk jackets and skirts, and Talcum, our ethnic dance, sometimes making some patchwork like clothes they divan't really intend to make. In the world of modern design, especially of the fashion industrial design, designs more scientific, more rationale and more positively appealing to the consumers, not the unconscious and emotional ones, are being demanded. To win in the fierce competing world of design as well call this age an age of "Design War", it is desirable for us to create our peculiar designs by uniting the internationalism (universality) and nationalism (traditionalism) together under a single rigid purpose. Analyzing the designs mainly of Korean style fashion designers since the 1980s, 1 could see that Korean designs in the aspect of appearance have a strong tendency toward applying or reviving the traditional elements, thus are under a bias toward nationalism rather than in ternationalism. The idea of "very Korean" does not mean a mere harmony or negotiation of the traditional elements with modern ones. It is rather a concept from vivid historical experiences of the conflict between the purely Korean mental, cultural heritages and the demands in mod- eradiation. Therefore, based on this concept of "very Korean" we must create fashions completely Korean and modern at the same time.n and modern at the same time.
The multilateral attempt for present applications of art school of thought and expression is leading modern fashion as a chapter of various artistic expression. In fashion, historic art thinking which predominated the period are source of optional inspiration not simply being generated, culminated and disappear but layout principles which can reemerge as periodical needs. In other words, the past styles are the source of inspiration of new trend of the present time and will serve as the text that give birth to yet another trend. In this study, I conducted the research on the layout principles of Modernism Architecture in aspects of pure visibility and the layout characteristics. And I analyzed cases of modern fashion which were appling architectural layout principles in the view point of formal construction dimension. As the result, the layout principles of Modernism Architecture have the characteristics of diagram linearity, geometric planarity and exclusive closing. And I was applying the architectural layout principles of Modernism to fashion. The layout principles of Modernism Architecture have the tendency of lacking history types, abstract plane partition and reductionism purity in fashion. The meaning of this study is follows: The characteristics of art school of thought are given shape by appling & analysing the architectural layout principles of historical art school of thought to modern fashion in the view point of formal construction dimension. The applied possibility of historical art school of thought as the source of inspiration about the fashion design is extended.
Journal of the Korean Institute of Educational Facilities
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v.18
no.4
/
pp.33-43
/
2011
The purpose of this study is to clearify the architectural pattern of the Dogsedang(讀書堂) and it's characteristics of the Place which based on the historical background of the Saga-reagingsystem(陽假讀書制度) in the early Chosun Dynasty. The Saga-reaging(賜暇讀書) was given vacation to read books for young scholars who serve in a Royal institution chartered an academic society that we call the Giphyunjeun(集賢默). Due to the consciousness of preference about the old Documment on the history of Chosun Dynasty such as, whangchoshillok(朝蘇王朝實錄) and giligie(地理誌) and so on, I could find a clue that would lead to the solution of the problem. So to speak the division into periods about historical background of the Saga-reagingsystem(賜暇讀書制度) is analysed by questionnaire of scholars who is in. By the analysis, there were two types of the Saga-reagingsystem(賜暇讀書制度) and three places in the Dogsedang(讀書堂). Vacation to read books at the single schalor's home is we called jaegadogse(在家讀書), reading area at the temple in the deep mountain district is the Sansadogse(山寺讀書). The first place reading area at the temple in the deep mountain district was the temple of Jinkwan(律寬寺), the second place was the temple of Jangyue(藏義寺) the third was the temple of youngsan(龍山寺) so called the Namhodang(南湖堂). There is a certain difference of viewpoint with each site. These results show that the site of the Dogsedang(讀書堂) has deep consideration in relation with picturesque scenery.
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